A/C Compressor Cutoff
#1
A/C Compressor Cutoff
So yes, This is another A/C thread but I already did some digging/searching and still couldnt come up with an answer. Here it goes.
So I bought my 04 6MT about 3 months ago (when it wasnt so hot) and 2 days after I bought it I noticed the ac wasnt cold at all. This was in March, and it wasnt hot outside yet, so I didnt worry bout it. Figured it just need freon so I would just grab some when it got closer to summer.
*Fast forward 3 months*
So yesterday, after going by my local parts store and grabbing some freon and attempting to charge the system I noticed that the system wasnt taking in the freon, guage wasnt moving, and the ac compressor wasnt coming on.
I went home checked all the fuses (good) and started doing some digging on here to see what was up. Got up this morning and started working at it again. After a couple minutes I grabbed a phillips head and was able to press the Low Side Valve completely in (no resistance, nothing came out). Now at this point im wondering if it is possible that the freon got so low, that the compressor is not cutting on.
So Im wondering A) Is there is a way to test the compressor. B) Where is the "cutoff switch"? OR C) What else could cause the compressor to not come on?
Thanks in advance guys!
So I bought my 04 6MT about 3 months ago (when it wasnt so hot) and 2 days after I bought it I noticed the ac wasnt cold at all. This was in March, and it wasnt hot outside yet, so I didnt worry bout it. Figured it just need freon so I would just grab some when it got closer to summer.
*Fast forward 3 months*
So yesterday, after going by my local parts store and grabbing some freon and attempting to charge the system I noticed that the system wasnt taking in the freon, guage wasnt moving, and the ac compressor wasnt coming on.
I went home checked all the fuses (good) and started doing some digging on here to see what was up. Got up this morning and started working at it again. After a couple minutes I grabbed a phillips head and was able to press the Low Side Valve completely in (no resistance, nothing came out). Now at this point im wondering if it is possible that the freon got so low, that the compressor is not cutting on.
So Im wondering A) Is there is a way to test the compressor. B) Where is the "cutoff switch"? OR C) What else could cause the compressor to not come on?
Thanks in advance guys!
#3
Yes there is a low pressure switch which prevents engagement of the compressor clutch. You have a leak in the system like jasonrxeight mentions; (condenser is the most common but it could be anything).
#4
Ummm.. you let out the freon into the air....
The Obama Police will be coming for you. Did you buy any carbon credits to pollute?
Make sure the setting is on cold. Do a search. There is a reset for the 2004.
Push a few buttons on the panel to reset the temperture settings.
If I had link I would post it.
My experience is... you can still charge it with a leak. It will just leak out.
Compressor does need to engage so.. try the A/C reset.
Sorry I can not help anymore.
The Obama Police will be coming for you. Did you buy any carbon credits to pollute?
Make sure the setting is on cold. Do a search. There is a reset for the 2004.
Push a few buttons on the panel to reset the temperture settings.
If I had link I would post it.
My experience is... you can still charge it with a leak. It will just leak out.
Compressor does need to engage so.. try the A/C reset.
Sorry I can not help anymore.
#5
Ken
#6
A/C should charge even when you have a leak. Its just that it wont hold it for long.
So there is something wrong with ur kit or the Low side connector.
get a ballpoint pen and push the pin of the low pressure connector down, keep ur face away from it. anything comes out ? if nothing then u have no pressure in the system and u need to get it professionally fix (if u're in NY then I can find, fix the leak and recharge it for u, I have all tools)
if something came out of the connector, your recharge kit has a problem, that also means you either have too low of a charge in the system, or something else is wrong with the compressor.
So there is something wrong with ur kit or the Low side connector.
get a ballpoint pen and push the pin of the low pressure connector down, keep ur face away from it. anything comes out ? if nothing then u have no pressure in the system and u need to get it professionally fix (if u're in NY then I can find, fix the leak and recharge it for u, I have all tools)
if something came out of the connector, your recharge kit has a problem, that also means you either have too low of a charge in the system, or something else is wrong with the compressor.
#7
kevin@rotaryresurrection
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 57
From: east of Knoxville, TN
Sounds like your system was already discharged before you got to it. This is usually charged by a damaged component (compressor, lines, condenser core) or bad o=rings between the pipe connections letting the charge escape slowly.
To do the job right you need about 2 cans of charge, possibly a little bit of oil, a set of charge gauges, a vacuum pump, and (assuming the vacuum pump is powered by shop air) an air compressor or air source. Since this is not feasible for most non-mechanics, it's cheaper to simply pay a shop 75 bucks and let them do it for you. It's about an hour job when you include the half hour that you want to let the system sit under vacuum for to check for leaks.
When the charge leaks out, atmosphere air leaks in to replace it. This is detrimental to the system and also prevents the system from holding as much charge as it would otherwise. SO the vacuuming removes as much atmosphere as possible. IT also helps check for leaks...if the system holds vacuum and no atmosphere leaks back in, then the system is relatively well sealed and should hold charge well.
Once this has been determined the gauge set is hooked to the cans of charge and after the low pressure switch sees about 20-30psi, the compressor can engage...this will help it pull in the rest of the charge, and the system is filled to pressure spec and volume.
To do the job right you need about 2 cans of charge, possibly a little bit of oil, a set of charge gauges, a vacuum pump, and (assuming the vacuum pump is powered by shop air) an air compressor or air source. Since this is not feasible for most non-mechanics, it's cheaper to simply pay a shop 75 bucks and let them do it for you. It's about an hour job when you include the half hour that you want to let the system sit under vacuum for to check for leaks.
When the charge leaks out, atmosphere air leaks in to replace it. This is detrimental to the system and also prevents the system from holding as much charge as it would otherwise. SO the vacuuming removes as much atmosphere as possible. IT also helps check for leaks...if the system holds vacuum and no atmosphere leaks back in, then the system is relatively well sealed and should hold charge well.
Once this has been determined the gauge set is hooked to the cans of charge and after the low pressure switch sees about 20-30psi, the compressor can engage...this will help it pull in the rest of the charge, and the system is filled to pressure spec and volume.
#9
Yea take it to a shop. Find one with a Robinair machine and have a flush & fill service and leak inspection after fill. If you want to get into in DIY AC then start with a gauge set and some R134 charge, then if that leaks either a UV dye or a Dye + sealer. Then welcome to A/C hell from that point on lol..
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