If you all remember, I was having a "flutter" noise and a power loss at about 5-6000 rpms. They replaced the crank shaft sensor... test drove it and marked it done. Now I agree, it's definitely better.. but there is still that power loss. In 1st, I red-lined it this morning and I felt at 6500 rpms my head fell forward a bit from the "wall" I hit. It went past it and picked up speed again..but there's a definite loss at that rpm. The noise is gone but that hesitation is there.

Course now I tried it in every gear but I was afraid of getting busted.. hehhe... it was rush hour after all. Hubby drove it last night said it does it worse going uphill but my way to work is downhill so I was unable to notice that.

Gonna call Mazda again. I hate this! Today they will give me a loaner. No more of this taking my time off work to run home to get a car or drop off a car.

WAAA!!!!

 

don't know if this is anything, but based of the rpms you've given, that's the range that the Variable Fresh Air Duct (VFAD) should be opening, and it issues goes away after ~6000 because that's when the teriary ports open.

maybe they could look to see if the vfad is operating as it should. not sure if the vfad has enough impact on performance to feel it not opening though...just a guess.

 

The woman at Mazda is full of it. She explained it acting like a governer say if the car had a top speed of 90 it cuts feul. I told her I was doing 30 when it happened and she proceeded to say "you dont get what I'm telling you". Whatever.

So I say I need a loaner. She's telling me they only use loaners for like engine rebuilds and stuff so she only has two and it could be a couple of weeks before one comes back. So now I'm on a waiting list.

I'm angry. Does anyone elses car do this at 6,000 - 6500 rpms?

 

I would go to a different dealer. My dealership gives loaners on ANY warranty work that will take more than a day.

 

that's complete BS. the only governer on the car is wind resistance, and that doesn't kick in until around 150mph :D

this is not normal behavior and something is wrong. i agree with guy. go to a different mazda dealership. this one is obviously incompetent. maybe look around in the regional section to see if you can find what dealerships are good in your area.

 

I called the service manager and told him my concerns and he proceeded to say "why are you revving that car so high" and I replied "it redlines at 9 since when is 6 high" and he replies "it doesn't matter that it redlines at 9. 6 is to high unless you're out on the highway". I said I disagree and will take it to another dealership and he said ok and we hung up.

HOLY COW!!!!!

 

Oh and the service manager told me it was probably a rev limiter?!?!?!

 

You need to call Mazda USA and complain on that dealership. I would have to read up to be certain, but I believe that a loaner car for any warranty work that requires them to have your car for an extended amount of time is included in the purchase price. It's part of your warranty I believe. If they don't have one on the lot, they are supposed to get you one from a rental company. The service people at my dealership are scared as hell that I will complain whenever I have an issue with them. I would also tell them that if this car is not meant to be revved high, then they should stop selling it as such. The salesman may not be an expert, but he is the representative of that dealership, and they are accountable for what he tells you to get you into that car.

 

What's worse is it was the SERVICE MANAGER that told me it wasn't meant to be revved that high.

I think I'm turning it all over to my hubby at this point. It's too easy for these guys to talk over my head and he knows cars.

 

Me Too, I suggest you do call Mazda North America and let them know, word-for-word,, with names and dates, what this dealership is doing to you and your car.

This engine at 6k isn't even fully awake yet! I shift at 6-7 k in the street for the first 2 gears, and in the freeway I'll make 'er beep routinely. There is a rev limiter, yes.. at 9.5 or 10k! (never felt it, so dunno exactly where it is.. )

Sounds like your dealer's entire service department, from top to bottom, is ignorant of the rotary engine's workings. Find another dealer. And do call this one in to MNAO. Word-for-word, in all of its glorious ignorance.

Did they ever replace the solenoid y'all were talking about last time, or did they just replace the angle sensor? They're barking up the wrong tree if they did, methinks...

 

I just got issued a rentel from hertz from my dealer because they kept my car over night.

Why should I have to take off a day of work or run in between my lunch hour because of your failed product?

 

fuel cut off is at 9.5k. i've felt it once or twice

 

According to the paperworkwhen I picked up my car, they replaced the crank shaft sensor because that's what the fault code was. It seems to have fixed the loud noise the car makes at that rpms and the power loss is less... but it's still there.

So my husband calls.. guy tells him 6,000 is way to high to be shifting and husband says that's our business where we shift it. He tells husband don't shift that high you won't have that problem. Husband says so if the radio breaks your solution is to tell me not to turn it on??

Tells the guy bottom line is it's not right and are they going to fix it or is he going to return the car. Oh and he needs a loaner.

I love my husband! =)

 

ok ok slow down everyone.

"there is no rev limiter" YES THERE IS. the PCM lowers the REV limit until teh car reaches a certain operating temperature to help preserve teh engine. it can also change timign to reduce power if it decides it needs to.

she said she tried it int he morning. how long after you were driving did this occur? without an answer to that question one thign to check for is a stuck/sticky thermostat. the pcm is probably using that temp for one of its parameters. it does for openloop/closed loop operation . if it doesnt send the right signal to the pcm the car will restrict rpm and power because it doesnt think the car is warm. it might also be checking exhaust temp via the WBO2. but there are ways to track down why it is doing this. it may actually be the correct function of the car.

 

I let the car warm up for probably about 5 minutes before playing around.

If it were something like temperature, would it happen consistantly at the same rpms all the time every gear? Wouldn't if fluctuate more?

 

no it restricts the RPM to guess what - about 6500- i fit doesnt think it is warmed up all the way and then allows the rpms to ease up as the temp is satisfied.

 

Sure, tell them that if you dont rev over 6k then you'll be back for them to replace your engine when it locks up!

 

Ok so then once the car is warmed up, wouldn't that problem stop?

(I always make sure the temp guage is warmed up before playing).

 

I doubt 5 minutes is long enough. Try it after 15 minutes of warm-up.

 

the temp guge is showing you that the water temp is within the range which is rather broad. it could possibly(not sure of this) still be "cold" as far as the pcm is concerned whent he temp guage is inits normal spot. it does stay in its normal spot for a long time when it starts heating uppast "normal" ive seen that myself.

even so the oil doesnt heat up as quick as the water so you should wait a few minutes after the temp guage reaches its normal spot before flogging it.

if the car is warmed it should stop yes.if the problem still occurs it could still be what i am talking about if there is a bad sensor etc.

 

What a bunch of crap. I would go off on that service tech, manager..whoever. They should never tell YOU how to drive YOUR car PERIOD. Their job is to fix what is wrong, not to pass judgement on your driving habits. Screw their explainations, something's not right w/ the car and it's obvious they don't know how to fix it. I would deal w/ Mazda NA exclusively. vegas.

 

not allowed to rev past 6k RPMs? well at least your gas mileage will stay on the high side..

 

You have the same problem Richard Paul has. Check the S/C thread.

 

I have the same problem at 6K rpms. Funny thing is my dealer is cool. He told me that rotaries NEED to be driven like they were made for and that is to be revved. He said you treat a rotary like a piston engine and it won't last very long. However, you shift freely in the upper band and that is actually GOOD for the car. Rotaries need to be wound up frequently.

 

Well, my husband slapped the service manager around on the phone. They'll have a loaner for me on Tuesday. Actually, I'm going to trade cars with my husband and let him take it in. I'm too much of a pushover and nice. He always says "they had time to deal with the nice one, now they have to deal with me" whenever I had an issue over to him. He'll make sure it gets done.