So last week I changed my spark plugs, spark plug wires, and the engine coils. And it was doing great, for about 3 days. Now, whenever I am running the air conditioner the Engine Collant Light comes on, then I turn off the air (Engine coolant light goes off) then it idles really low and "stalls" (its an automatic). The engine light and battery light come on and I turn off the car,let it sit for 5 mins and restart and it's fine. What in the world could be wrong with it? Im taking a road trip at the end of July driving around 2k miles (from CO to AL). Any answers would be extremely helpful!!

Thanks,

Meghin

 

How many miles on it?

 

The coolant light sensor is a common problem... however if its only on when you turn the ac on/off then I wouldn't guess that it is the problem, Is your coolant low lol?

 

If your having a road trip, you should check everything out, even though, there's nothing wrong with the car. In your situation, you really have to get it maintained or you'll be paying the price at the side of the road. Have it tuned, oil change (if needed), check for leaks (coolant, oil, transmission, etc.). If i were you, i'll have a mechanic check the symptoms of the problems. You may not have time to solve it or do it yourself before you begin your road trip. Good luck.

 

It's a 2004 with 49k miles. Coolant levels are fine, it's only when the A/C is running or if I switch the Air from in cabin circulation to outside air circulation. Today, I was out driving it around no air on, the last 5 mins of my drive I turned the air on lowest setting cool air, A/C, in cabin circulation and as soon as I turned it on, it started idling horribly. The entire car shaking, wouldn't down shift from 3rd to 1st (Automatic) until I started back moving, and when i pulled into my drive way the Engine Light came on, the Battery Light, Coolant Light, almost every light on the right side was on along with the light on the left with the steering wheel and exclamation point. I put it in park let it sit for 2 mins, started it back up, couldn't get enough power, turned it back off waited another 5 mins, started it back up and it was fine, all lights went off.. Could it be a bad alternator? or maybe some sort of shortage with the A/C and engine? Bad engine mounts? Bad engine? Any ideas?? Also I'm due for service (oil change etc in a couple of weeks, and I am putting new tires on it this week)

 

There are severeral possibilities causing your problems; have the CEL checked when you go in for service, that should get you pointed in the right direction.

 

Its in the shop now, they told me for sure the coolant sensor has gone bad, estimated cost 575$ so i told them to hold off on that (anyone know anywhere cheaper to get that fixed or if you can diy?) They are complaining of the car shaking horribly especially hen the a/c is running but comes back with no codes? coils plugs and wires were just replaced, would the engine mounts cause it to shake bad enough for it to idle? maybe just a bad thermostat or the a/c is pulling too much power from the engine? Who knows, they said they are running the tests now through the next week, so i'll keep everyone updated.

 

Coolant bottle is like $110.00 and maybe 30 minutes to swap out(even if you are slow).
Tell them "No, but thanks for trying to rip me off @ssholes".

Here's a good link to all you need to know about the coolant bottle, then a link to one possible place to buy it.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/coolant-bottle-greatest-secrets-revealed-182793/
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...cat=336&page=1

back to other issue.............
I'm thinking that either the A/C is drawing too much, or the alternator is weak or both. You should have the alternator tested.

In terms of bad idle shaking.....yes it can be the motor mounts, but need to re-read your post again.
FYI.........alternator going bad under loaded conditions could theoretically also expalin the coolant light, the idle(stumbling), and other symptoms you are reporting. Are you sure your battery connections are clean and good and tight?

Not that this will really answer the question totally, but ask them what voltage the alternator is putting out while car is idling with A/C off and what it reads with A/C on.

 

Even easier to just ignore the light, or pull the plug, and visually check coolant level every now and then. Don't make anything of it coming on at any particular time. Mine comes on when I drive along one street on my commute.

Ken

 

Well......yeah , but had he clicked my link, it would've told him how to ignore as well.
I know you know this, but it usually starts when in the high RPM's for a brief time and slowly get worse over time. Coolant sensor is the least of his worries ATM.

But now that you brought it up again.........mcagle08, did you think the car was overheating ONLY becuase the coolant light was on or do you have other info that suggests it was?

 

One thing that might be worth mentioning. Check to see if your cooling fans are working.

Is the A/C not cool when the car is stationary?

* Start car
* Turn on A/C
* I think the fans should come on within 30 secs or so to pass air through radiator and condenser.

 

Mine started like that, but now will come on while driving at steady speed, no correlation with rpm. And most often on that one stretch of road. Very entertaining, so I'm just leaving it alone.

Definitely not a significant worry compared to everything else happening with that car. Just a red herring - that coolant sensor has a wicked sense of humor.

Ken

 

Yea I've just been ignoring the coolant light, my levels are good and the temp is good, I told the dealership not to worry about the coolant light unless it has something to do with the "stalling" and idle problems but they did so anyways. I'm not concerned about the light as longs as the levels and temps are good. They are still testing and diagnosing it today 3 days now in the shop, was told that the tech took it out after the engine had been fully heated up and once the a/c was turn on it died on him so they are still running test. It only dies once you have driven 20+mins, the battery and battery cables/connections are all brand new, I was thinking an alternator at first but hopefully they can figure it out, I have an extended warranty so whatever it is, maybe it's covered.

 

Subscribing. Curious to know what the diagnosis will be.

 

Dealership called said they are replacing the engine mounts (covered by extended warranty) and will go from there, the tech's theory is that since the mounts are pretty much "done" and with running the a/c, radio, and everything at once it is making the engine work too hard (plus it being hot out )which is causing strains on the mounts when it comes to the stop (red light, stop sign, whatever)which causes it to idle too low (below 500 rpm) and stall/die. Said all the diagnosis came back with no codes so this is his best theory. Will keep updated once the mounts are installed and if the problems persist or if the problem is resolved.

 

It could be the fuel pump..I have this stalled/died issue that giving me a headache and so far the last thing I've change was the fuel pump.

Since then, she never stalled / die for 3 weeks now...hopefully

 

Good point, but curious if really overheating or that was said merely based on coolant sensor? I must read on now and see what latest is.

 

Strange one...............I really have not much of too many ideas left. I was thinking CAT clog, but not if it only happens when A/C is turned on.
Will be interesting and still thinking.

 

Might make some small sense, but I thought it was dying on you at speed when turning the A/C on and not when car came to idle......did I miss something?

 

This may or may not be the issue with your car but, speaking from experience in the past... I once owned a car that, when low on transmission fluid, it would idle low and sometimes rough and, it would stall. Perhaps yours is experiencing this. Sometimes, a coolant leak can contaminate and rapidly degrade atf.

Just wanted to put that out there as one more possibility to check out. Check for level and color of atf.

 

Doh! I missed that it's an auto. I see that it was in the original post. Double doh!

This explanation makes sense. It feels like a transmission-related issue.

 

I have the same problem with my 04 Mazda rx8 AT ms CAI I'm getting the exact symptoms when I use the a/c I would let it idle around 500 just before it would stall out I would turn off the a/c and it ran fine

I've.
Changed the coils
Cleaned MAF sensor
Cleaned spark plugs
Cleaned battery terminals
Cleaned crankshaft position sensor
Changed the alternator

On the highway my coolant light would come on... I did the first fout things but still the same problem which I came to a conclusion my alternator was bad took it to autozone they said it was only reading low replaced it for $150 .....3 months later same problem but everytime it happens I get a p0301 misfire code I'm starting to think it might be the coils but I guess that didn't help you any so I'm stumped

 

Coolant light is known issue. The float in the bottle goes bad, do some searches. Just unplug it and keep an eye on your level or replace the bottle.

Continued misfire........not so easy...........are you sure a plug wire didn't come loose?
Oh, I see you didn't change the wires.
How many miles you think you have on them?
It's possible it's a wire.......usually coils and plugs as you said, but wires aren't totally out of the realm.

 

i have a 04 mazda AT titanium gray.....i think its the wires, i just checked em they all snap on when i push them onto the spark plug but the top left corner one..... i bought my car with 74,000 miles now its 86,000 i haven not changed the wires since i got the car I've had it for 2 years....this thursday im putting in my order for the racing beat wires because NGK cause misfires

another question is do rotary engines misfire when you unplug the wire from the coil like most cars because i tried it any the 8 and it just ran the same usually engines get jumpy when you do this