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Check my Compression!

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Old 12-30-2008, 08:52 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by EricMeyer
Hey Adam,

Yep, we toasted 2 motors at Lime Rock. I think you're right about the above teams losing motors---crazy. One motor was totally our fault, the other one is still being investigated by Scooby Doo and the Mystery Machine gang.

My little bit of research has revealed that the street guys aren't seeing ANYWHERE NEAR the side seal failure modes us Koni Challenge guys are seeing. Most engine builders I talk to can only guess why this is.
Hey Eric, thanks for the compliment in calling me Adam, but I am not. My name is Nic, I crewed for ROAR this year...but I totally hear ya on the side seal issue. No one here has seen the type of damage our motors incur.
Old 12-31-2008, 08:56 AM
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maxwell paper did lose an engine that day, i remember talking with one of theirs about it (astral was there too). Said the engine was pretty tired going in...

+1 on bunk testing from your indie guy. You might still have a problem but I don't believe those numbers.

do the ignition overhaul anyway, yourself (cheap and a good experience); or front the money for an official dealer compression test.
Old 12-31-2008, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
IN my experience/opinion, you do not see an actual loss of power until the engine compression drops below 100psi, or there becomes a disparity between chambers of over 10psi.

Agree 100%. This is the exact same thing we have experienced. Thanks for elaborating.

Thank you for sharing.
Old 12-31-2008, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by zoom44
pumped the pedal before turning it over? WTF?
20 Brake Tap Reset?

I have lost 3 engines. First one failure is unknown. Second was a coolant seal (second rotor). Third was a side seal. The compression was down to around 50 psi on one lobe.
Old 12-31-2008, 12:29 PM
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I'm gonna do another compression check once I can make it back to our shop...according to Mazda's tester, in Feb I was averaging 9.9's in the rear rotor and 9.7's in the front. As of the last test at the end of August my numbers have dropped to 8.6's in the rear and 8.4's in the front. Hopefully this next check doesn't move any lower.
Old 12-31-2008, 12:37 PM
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Tangent
Yea changing plugs, coils and wires yourself is very easy.
You could buy all the parts and tools for what you have to spend. The you'd have them for future use.
Do you have a place to work on the car? A pair of jack stands is a good thing to get if plan on working under the car. Safety first right.
Old 12-31-2008, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dozer
OH DUDE ILL DO EM! i even got the right socket, + extension, did mine like 3 weeks ago
Hot damn! After some serious haggling, I just pussied out and paid the dealer $806 for the work to be done Ah well at least my Amex card has 0% APR for the next 11 months Thanks for the offer dozer.

I didn't see a compression test done by the dealer, but when I got the car back, I was told 2 of the coils were shot. I guess that might explain the fucked up numbers I was getting.

Anyways, she's alive and kicking fine. Thanks for the help guys!
Old 12-31-2008, 08:12 PM
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Bad coils wouldn't affect a compression test.
Old 12-31-2008, 10:18 PM
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Agree, Bad coils has nothing to do with your engines compression figures.
Old 01-01-2009, 06:57 AM
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I am gonna guess you have a misfire code. P02096, or p0300-p0302....I forget which ones apply. I have seen zeros on tests with misfire codes, whether by mechanics fault or if its legit I dont know, I have only done compression tests on the rebuilds personally and those always pass. Rough idle/L.O.P.(lack of power) are symptoms for engine rebuilds and the check engine is all you need to find out, if its one of the codes above then its rebuild time unfortunately.
Old 01-01-2009, 10:31 AM
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so i just found out today after almost 3 weeks of my car not starting that i have no compression and that the motor needs to be rebuild...im not happy about it, the car is not under warrenty, its going to cost me so ungodly much.
Old 01-01-2009, 12:32 PM
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Why is your engine not under warranty?
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