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cold Weather killed my 8

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Old 12-22-2008 | 05:25 PM
  #26  
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Well, mine didn't start again! argg! I gotta start it every few hours in order to keep it warm! What a hassle! AWESOME car, that's the only negative so far**
Old 12-22-2008 | 10:01 PM
  #27  
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I guess I can't complain about the 30s we have been getting here lately. Our 8's seem not to handle super cold weather well.

Good luck! Keep us updated.
Old 12-26-2008 | 09:09 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
I often wonder why people knowingly CHOOSE to live in such places.

I understand if you are born and raised there, but you could always move away. I always wonder why northerners choose to live in their high population density, cold, pothole-ridden, blizzard-and-ice storm every year having areas, where they complain about cars not starting, having to run "winter" rims and tires, having to put their cars in storage for the winter (such things are unheard of here), instead of moving somewhere down south where the cost of living is lower and the weather is so much nicer.

My friend in Seattle tells me there is 6 inches of snow there and more coming, the airport is closed down. Yet here, it is rainy, breezy and 50-55. My son is 4.5 and has never seen more than 1/4 inch of snow in his life. The last time I drove in snow was 2002 I believe.
I was born in VA and miss the weather in winter but thats it, the steamy sweat drenched humidity of the US southeast bites unless you like like sweating uncontrollably while fighting constant crotch rash. So far in NE PA summers Ive opened my windows at night and let the nice 55-65* mountain air roll into the room and Ive never slept better. I might NEED the central AC on about 30 days of the year, electric is so cheap 3 out of 4 seasons here.

Not meaning to get political but the reason alot of people dont move south can be seen in the electoral college map from the Obama/McCain election. Im not speaking for everyone but as a half white myself and Im sure other non whites can relate, I feel the "extra" attention I garner when walking into a store or restaraunt that I definitely did not feel while living in NH, Boston, NJ and PA. Northern VA where I was born doesnt have an oppressive feel to it as it is a pretty diverse melting pot. Just my 2cents and not an indictment of the deep south. Id prob live in FL after investing in a case of Right Gaurd though.
Old 12-26-2008 | 01:20 PM
  #29  
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So, if I'm interpreting that post correctly, you say that you dont like the south because of humidity, and racism?

Humidity is only a major issue in coastal areas...summers here are moderately humid but nothing extreme.

As far as racism...it is everywhere. I know when we drive down to atlanta, or orlando, or other similar places, it is almost like reverse racism...there seem to be everyone BUT white folks around there and WE are the ones getting looked at funny. It varies from place to place I suppose.

I know that when I have been up north, I could not understand a damn word anyone said half the time. That, combined with higher cost of living, higher average population density, and colder weather (which I hate) combine for the reasons that I would NEVER want to live anywhere north of my current area.
Old 12-26-2008 | 01:45 PM
  #30  
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This thread has taken a sharp turn in the wrong direction.
Old 12-26-2008 | 04:21 PM
  #31  
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racism is racism, you cant reverse it. its an idea.

whether its black on white, or white on black, or black on brown, or brown on black, or brown on white, or white on brown, etc.. is another thing.

growing up in pg county has exposed me to a lot of rascism. the black on white variety. i dont hold it against them though. they are just ignorant. in fact, i pity them.

i went to private schools all my life, until i got kicked out of my catholic high school (grades, pot, other issues) and went to the local public school for 11th and 12th grades. 3000 students. 300 whites. 30 non-ghetto whites. heh, talk about being a minority.
Old 12-26-2008 | 09:26 PM
  #32  
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Got my car back after the dealer put in upgraded starter motor and battery per TSB.

Amazing difference. Fires up instantly.

Words can't do the difference justice.
Old 12-26-2008 | 11:45 PM
  #33  
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That upgraded starter is a kick in ***, isnt it?
Old 12-27-2008 | 03:36 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
That upgraded starter is a kick in ***, isnt it?
Yep.

Makes one wonder why they didn't use it from the start.

It's literally night and day.

I can't believe I lived with the old style one for three years.
Old 12-27-2008 | 08:21 AM
  #35  
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We had a few days last week where it was -40F here, and my car had no issues firing up to head to blockbuster for new ps3 games :P i still have the old style starter aswell i believe.
Old 12-27-2008 | 09:33 AM
  #36  
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How can you tell if you have the new starter?
I never had any starting or flooding issues and my Rx8 always starts instantly!!!

Old 12-27-2008 | 10:13 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Black Hatch


-36 deg C
in Edmonton, Canada

Parked for about 3hrs for a Christmas company party and the RX-8 started fine.
Had the rough idling for about 5mins. (not plugged in)

On a seperate note in regards to the block heater, I have KAT-24150 Block Heater Pad
(if that makes sense, I think its a oil-heater pan but not 100%sure)

Holy Fawk!!!
Old 12-27-2008 | 11:05 AM
  #38  
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On one of the new the new dimand aircraft(general aviation airplanes) has a new feature where you can prewarm the pistons and oil before starting the engine to prolong engine life. they should make something like that for the rotary engine for you guys in the colder climates
Old 12-27-2008 | 01:38 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by KostasNK
How can you tell if you have the new starter?
I never had any starting or flooding issues and my Rx8 always starts instantly!!!

If your car chronically sounds like it has a weak battery during cranking/starting, but the battery is holding good charge, and the engine takes 2-4 seconds to actually fire and run, then you have the old original style starter (04-early 05) that turns slower.

IF your car sounds like, well, any other normal car and cranks at a fairly fast speed during startup,and the engine fires up and runs in under 1.5 seconds, then you have the updated starter (mid 05+).

You can also tell because the original slow starter is part number N3H1 xxxxxxxx and the upgraded starter is part number N3Z1 xxxxxxxxx, the label is usually clearly seen from underneath while you are changing your oil.
Old 12-27-2008 | 11:29 PM
  #40  
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Arg!

Well, What about my 8 which didn't turn over for a day.. and the next day started over, but didn't start not even with it being boosted-- is that the battery?....
Old 12-28-2008 | 09:51 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
If your car chronically sounds like it has a weak battery during cranking/starting, but the battery is holding good charge, and the engine takes 2-4 seconds to actually fire and run, then you have the old original style starter (04-early 05) that turns slower.

IF your car sounds like, well, any other normal car and cranks at a fairly fast speed during startup,and the engine fires up and runs in under 1.5 seconds, then you have the updated starter (mid 05+).

You can also tell because the original slow starter is part number N3H1 xxxxxxxx and the upgraded starter is part number N3Z1 xxxxxxxxx, the label is usually clearly seen from underneath while you are changing your oil.
thanks, I was pretty sure i had the old starter, and that set it in stone, now i know to look there if i ever have problems
Old 12-28-2008 | 01:39 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by scubanikki
Well, What about my 8 which didn't turn over for a day.. and the next day started over, but didn't start not even with it being boosted-- is that the battery?....
turn over?

start over?

People on internet car forums seem to have all sorts of their own terminology for the rotating and running actions of car engines. Not all of them are consistent or even make sense.

I have always thought of "turning over" or "cranking" as the action of rotating the engine slowly in an attempt to get it to start and run. i.e. the first automobiles were started with a manual crank, and therefore to 'crank" the engine is what happened before it ran under it's own power.

But some people call 'crank" what happens when the engine runs under it's own power. i.e. they will say something like "I couldnt get it to crank", but they are describing the engine's failure to start and run rather than a failure to actually turn.

Same for "turn over"...I think of this as the slow rotation that happens before the engine starts, but increasingly people say "my engine wouldnt turn over today" meaning that it would not fire and run under it's own power.

We should be more specific in a thread like this. Does the engine rotate in an effort to start, but simply fail to start and run under it's own power? Or does it fail to turn at all?
Old 12-29-2008 | 11:59 AM
  #43  
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whats ironic is after posting here, now suddenly my car battery is dead. LOL hopfully its just a bad battery, its charging now
Old 12-29-2008 | 12:35 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
If your car chronically sounds like it has a weak battery during cranking/starting, but the battery is holding good charge, and the engine takes 2-4 seconds to actually fire and run, then you have the old original style starter (04-early 05) that turns slower.

IF your car sounds like, well, any other normal car and cranks at a fairly fast speed during startup,and the engine fires up and runs in under 1.5 seconds, then you have the updated starter (mid 05+).

You can also tell because the original slow starter is part number N3H1 xxxxxxxx and the upgraded starter is part number N3Z1 xxxxxxxxx, the label is usually clearly seen from underneath while you are changing your oil.
From what you are saying and because my rx8 is a 2006 model I must have the updated starter!

Old 12-29-2008 | 06:39 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
turn over?

start over?

People on internet car forums seem to have all sorts of their own terminology for the rotating and running actions of car engines. Not all of them are consistent or even make sense.

I have always thought of "turning over" or "cranking" as the action of rotating the engine slowly in an attempt to get it to start and run. i.e. the first automobiles were started with a manual crank, and therefore to 'crank" the engine is what happened before it ran under it's own power.

But some people call 'crank" what happens when the engine runs under it's own power. i.e. they will say something like "I couldnt get it to crank", but they are describing the engine's failure to start and run rather than a failure to actually turn.

Same for "turn over"...I think of this as the slow rotation that happens before the engine starts, but increasingly people say "my engine wouldnt turn over today" meaning that it would not fire and run under it's own power.

We should be more specific in a thread like this. Does the engine rotate in an effort to start, but simply fail to start and run under it's own power? Or does it fail to turn at all?


Jeez, sorry! I thought the regular guy would understand me when I say it wouldn't turn over.
AKA didn't START OR EVEN MAKE A SOUND WHEN I TURNED THE KEY..
haha- so it's flooded... *sighs* why are rotary motors soo bad at flooding? **or is that question not specific enough? **
The guy at the specialty store said "it should be kept in a garage during the cold fronts, and if parked outside be started every few hours..."
Well, I mine-as-well go out and by an ugly car and let this one go to someone who can afford to store it for the winter. Count yourselves lucky you can have a wicked car like this and not worry about flooding it every time..
Old 12-29-2008 | 09:04 PM
  #46  
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I'm still waiting to hear back from the dealer... with the holidays everything is delayed. I’m interested about this topic about old/new starters. I have to pay for the starter but how do I know if it’s a new or old model starter, but anyone know the product number for the new starter? I guess I could always ask the service reps. does the type of oil make a difference in starting in cold weather. I know that we can’t use synthetic and most people use the regular 5-20, (that’s what I have) all year long.
Old 12-29-2008 | 10:21 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by RENESIS rotary
I'm still waiting to hear back from the dealer... with the holidays everything is delayed. I’m interested about this topic about old/new starters. I have to pay for the starter but how do I know if it’s a new or old model starter, but anyone know the product number for the new starter? I guess I could always ask the service reps. does the type of oil make a difference in starting in cold weather. I know that we can’t use synthetic and most people use the regular 5-20, (that’s what I have) all year long.
RotaryResurrection posted the part sequence number in post 39.
Old 01-07-2009 | 05:12 PM
  #48  
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I finally got to see the new engine today and witness the first start up. there was lots of smoke and the engine was shacking, but the tech told me that was normal, and after a while it will run smoother. so here is what they did and what the price came too.

4 New plugs (2 leads 2 trail) $ 54. not bad seeing how they charge 450 just to change plugs

New starter $273

New coil $193

Shop supplies and tax $ 85

tow truck 100

New Battier $ free

New A/C belt $ 30, belt broke.

total $735

on the plus side I got a free rental car (mazda 6) for 4 weeks and a new engine, so i shouldn't have any issues with it anymore, and i needed to change the plugs anyways so i saved 100's of dollers. i will add a block heater later.

Last edited by RENESIS rotary; 01-07-2009 at 05:37 PM.
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