coolant light on when i redlined the car
05-15-2004, 08:49 PM
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coolant light on when i redlined the car
Guys I have a problem I was redlining my car yesterday I was in third redlined it and then my coolant light flashed like 3 times and shut off after that I kept the rpms very low just in case. I have to make an appointment as soon as possible. I am leaving to Orlando on Friday for the weekend I hope there nothing major with my car. If there is I am screwed because I am the only one with the car for this trip and we have hotel reservations, dinner reservations, ect if theirs a problem my whole weekend is shot. What do u guys think the problem could be?
04-25-2006, 04:37 PM
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Did you ever get this resolved??? I have been having the same thing happed for the last two days. Temperature outside has been warmer than normal.
It is def the coolant level light. Coolant level with a HOT engine is above the Full mark.
It is def the coolant level light. Coolant level with a HOT engine is above the Full mark.
04-25-2006, 05:33 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by RX8driver
Did you ever get this resolved??? I have been having the same thing happed for the last two days. Temperature outside has been warmer than normal.
It is def the coolant level light. Coolant level with a HOT engine is above the Full mark.
It is def the coolant level light. Coolant level with a HOT engine is above the Full mark.
My guess is low coolant, when the car was accelerating the coolant 'rocked' to the back and tirggerd the light for a short time......
plus this is almost a year old.
04-26-2006, 12:45 AM
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it should be low of coolant, it happened on me before, the CEL lights up when i first start my car to warm it up, but when i start driving it, the CEL went off.
i checked my coolant level after, it was below low.
it never happened again after i added some coolant to it!
i checked my coolant level after, it was below low.
it never happened again after i added some coolant to it!
04-26-2006, 12:51 AM
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You shut off the car after you get the warning light!, you're supposed to drive it slowly with all heater fans on to cool down instead of letting it heat soak... just kidding.
04-26-2006, 11:35 PM
#9
I don't buy Kool-Aid
Originally Posted by KYLiquid
if the coolant level is fine, and the cars temp gauge reads normal, and you not having any problems with the car overheating.......then dont worry about it....if it keeps happening, take it to the dealer.
My guess is low coolant, when the car was accelerating the coolant 'rocked' to the back and tirggerd the light for a short time......
plus this is almost a year old.
My guess is low coolant, when the car was accelerating the coolant 'rocked' to the back and tirggerd the light for a short time......
plus this is almost a year old.
05-10-2006, 06:26 PM
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It did get resolved. I think! Even though the coolant level looked perfectly fine after the light came on it was low. The problem was that the coolant level in the overflow tank goes VERY high when the engine is hot. When I checked it again the next morning the level was slightly low, so I just topped it off.
I have been running it hard and the problem has not returned, so my current conclusion is that it was just low. I was especially surprised because I had just had it into the dealer a few weeks earlier for servicing and I presume the dealer did NOT check it
.
I have been running it hard and the problem has not returned, so my current conclusion is that it was just low. I was especially surprised because I had just had it into the dealer a few weeks earlier for servicing and I presume the dealer did NOT check it
.
05-11-2006, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by RX8driver
I was especially surprised because I had just had it into the dealer a few weeks earlier for servicing and I presume the dealer did NOT check it .
.
Originally Posted by abbid
Happened to me too. Put the front up on jack stands and ran the engine for 5 minutes and burped out all the air, then topped it off. No big deal.
05-11-2006, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DjGO
Guys I have a problem I was redlining my car yesterday I was in third redlined it and then my coolant light flashed like 3 times and shut off after that I kept the rpms very low just in case. I have to make an appointment as soon as possible. I am leaving to Orlando on Friday for the weekend I hope there nothing major with my car. If there is I am screwed because I am the only one with the car for this trip and we have hotel reservations, dinner reservations, ect if theirs a problem my whole weekend is shot. What do u guys think the problem could be?
Well, why were you redlining your car in the first place??? Don't you know when you do that engines don't tent to last too long??
05-11-2006, 03:15 PM
#15
Originally Posted by puch96
Well, why were you redlining your car in the first place??? Don't you know when you do that engines don't tent to last too long??
Remember - the rotary motor is NOT a reciprocating motor. There is no contrary inertial component to its motion, so there is virtually no stress from normal revolution. (Besides thebearing surfaces, only the end gears receive longitutional energy, and they are fixed in place.)
Additionally, the internals are spinning at 1/3 the engine RPM.
05-11-2006, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by pieter3d
Happened to me once too at the drag strip when I was revving it for the start. Haven's seen it since.
I don't think its a "something is wrong with your coolant" light so much as "if you keep doing what your doing you might overheat" light.
05-11-2006, 03:27 PM
#17
I'm still on "M" flash which does not have this "feature", though I might still get the famous "Lincoln Memorial" icon on my dash if the coolant is low (but not visibly).
The issue addressed by the new flash (and the other parts added by that TSB) wasn't a matter of engine overheating - it was exhaust overheating melting the gas tank.
The issue addressed by the new flash (and the other parts added by that TSB) wasn't a matter of engine overheating - it was exhaust overheating melting the gas tank.
05-12-2006, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Redlining your motor does absolutely no damage to it and, in fact, my promote better overall engine life by removing carbon deposits from the track of the side seals and plug tips.
Remember - the rotary motor is NOT a reciprocating motor. There is no contrary inertial component to its motion, so there is virtually no stress from normal revolution. (Besides thebearing surfaces, only the end gears receive longitutional energy, and they are fixed in place.)
Additionally, the internals are spinning at 1/3 the engine RPM.
Remember - the rotary motor is NOT a reciprocating motor. There is no contrary inertial component to its motion, so there is virtually no stress from normal revolution. (Besides thebearing surfaces, only the end gears receive longitutional energy, and they are fixed in place.)
Additionally, the internals are spinning at 1/3 the engine RPM.
Yes , but remember that higher RPM = Higher tear and wear. no matter what motor you have....
By the way, have you ever watch an indi or F1 car race.... those high RPM engines often need to be re-built after each race....
05-12-2006, 01:27 PM
#19
Originally Posted by puch96
Yes , but remember that higher RPM = Higher tear and wear. no matter what motor you have....
Originally Posted by puch96
By the way, have you ever watch an indi or F1 car race.... those high RPM engines often need to be re-built after each race....
05-12-2006, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Not exactly. Any engine has a finite number of REVs at load over time. Running the motor at high RPM's and no load accounts for an infinitesimally small total of that ratio.
Ever watch LeMans? You do know that a 4-rotor won that in 1991? Do you also know that after the tear-down of that motor, it showed virtually no wear?
Ever watch LeMans? You do know that a 4-rotor won that in 1991? Do you also know that after the tear-down of that motor, it showed virtually no wear?
Well... a four rotor configuration is not the same as a two rotor.....
by the way,,,, you should study the laws of physics and thermodynamics...
05-12-2006, 05:24 PM
#21
Originally Posted by puch96
.
Well... a four rotor configuration is not the same as a two rotor.....
Well... a four rotor configuration is not the same as a two rotor.....
Originally Posted by puch96
by the way,,,, you should study the laws of physics and thermodynamics...
Were I you, I wouldn't presume.
Incidently, thermodynamics is a subset of physics. You needn't be redundant, though your punctuation would indicate a tendency otherwise.
To get back on topic -
I logged my coolant temp's first excursion over 212°F yesterday.
The ambient temp was 105°F, though my intake air temp was 113°F.
Coolant temp hit 224°F. Highest ever for me.
Since doing the "Abbid Burp", I haven't been able to reproduce the Lincoln Memorial.
Last edited by MazdaManiac; 05-12-2006 at 05:27 PM.
08-10-2006, 04:07 AM
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Possibility bubble in your radiator, this happen after youu flash your radiator, because the radiation is position 45 degree in the 8, there will be some air trap inside. So you must make sure that the bubble is out.
Last edited by Jasontan_sg; 08-10-2006 at 05:51 AM.
08-10-2006, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by puch96
Yes , but remember that higher RPM = Higher tear and wear. no matter what motor you have....
By the way, have you ever watch an indi or F1 car race.... those high RPM engines often need to be re-built after each race....
By the way, have you ever watch an indi or F1 car race.... those high RPM engines often need to be re-built after each race....
08-10-2006, 10:44 AM
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Returning to the original topic--I had a similar problem (occasional radiator warning light for a few seconds, not clearly related to speed or load). Dealer diagnosed a defective coolant level sensor and replaced the overflow tank assembly under my extended warranty (about $400 worth). That was at about 70,000 miles, and I haven't seen the light since.
I can't redline every day, but she thanks me for it when I can.
I can't redline every day, but she thanks me for it when I can.
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