Okay, I took my car in to the dealership because I'm having some problems with startup (squeeking, takes an extra few seconds, then sputters up). When they called me back, they informed me that the spark plugs needed to be replaced. How could the plugs need to be replaced after I just got a Reman less than a year ago???? After researching, i noticed it was only the leading (or trailing?) plugs that should have been replaced, so I ordered a new set and replaced them *ALL*. Also, before I did that, I went to the auto hobby shop here at Pearl Harbor and got a new battery (CA was 215!?!?). The dealership missed that part. Oh, and now I've switched to RP. Yay MM and RG..


I know there is a TSB out for this regarding a failing starter, so I'll be pushing the dealer again on that, however I was cleaning out my jeans pocket and I actually read what the tech wrote.
The rep never mentioned that on the phone, which would have been $360 to do). Uhhhh....Cylinder combustion chamber? like... 4 cylinder?? Last time i checked it wasnt much of a cylinder... Questions is this, Is that the "technical" name for the skating ring our rotary spins in or... Is does the tech not have a clue?? Headlight fluid anyone?

 

Didn't they at least recommend changing the power steering fluid?

Ken

 

Dealer replaced 2 plugs on my 2007 one week after I bought it. Not that there was anything wrong, it ran the same before and after. I think they were getting recommedations from the factory to replace plugs a precautionary matter.

 

You just need to run the car harder.
"A redline a day, keeps the carbon away." unknown

 

Don't know how you can de-carbon the combustion chamber.

I do know that my car always runs better after an autocross and a long stretch of above 6K RPM running.

the seals on the rotor can get gunked up with carbon and oil crud. This will result in lower compression and also hard starting. crappy running.

15,000 + miles and I have not had any of these problems. We do drive it like a sportscar not a "mommy" wagon.

 

Thanks for the responses. Especially since I got the new plugs and some good oil (n filter) now, I'll be doing some redline decarbing myself. Still, I think this was a tech in training that was basing his info off a plug that's been in for 35k mi. still cylinder chamber? figure 8 atleast

 

Say your car flooded, and took forever to start,,,,,,then they will replace your lugs, starter and battery.

 

Maybe you could try a premix in addition to the redline treatment.

 

Yes, you need to red line it more.

 

<---------unknown

 

One of the "better" ways to clean up the carbon is to pull the spark plugs and put some ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) in there. Best to put a little in and then rotate the motor to the next compression stroke/rotor face, put some in there, and do the same for the third/last rotor face. Let it sit and soak for a bit and then put your old plugs back in. Make sure the car or at least exhaust is outside or pointing out of the garage, because when you start the car you will get quite a bit of smoke. Run it till it stops smoking and then pull the plugs and replace with new plugs.

I have actually had some of my low compression rotary cars come back to life with full compression using this method.

 

remember one thing

ATF will posion CAT. just remember that.

I prefer Pure H2O

 

is that seriously a boosted buick regal?

 

Yes, seriously a boosted Regal. 3.8L supercharged motor came stock in it. Currently under the knife right now getting the supercharger removed and putting a turbocharger on it (should run a solid 12 maybe even a high 11 when I am done):







Sorry for the threadjack


[/threadjack]

 

I guess that is true... I never had to worry about that because:

1. Either the car was not running right before anyway
2. I already had a catless downpipe and midpipe on the car

 

Thanks for the advice. I've started redlining it more, and avoid changing gears due to higher RPM torque-iness.. Not sure if its starting up faster but its too soon to tell. Doing ATF or H2O into the car sounds too dangerous for me though.

Thanks guys, I still think my Dealer's Service dept is a bunch of idiots (well most of them).

 

did you get a CEL light cause I think I have a similar problem? If you do, what readings did you get?