so im assuming 7.1 on each rotor surface is the maximum compression, correct? i may buy the starter, but like i said, i literally barely drive my car. i drive 400 miles one way to my brother in august, and 400 miles back, so im really only starting the car up very minimal times within 2,200 miles, in a period of one year.

 

More detail:
Technically, and legally, the warranty only covers the engine core, and the labor for the core. It does NOT cover things like coolant (have to drain the system to pull it out, they aren't reusing the old coolant), oil (same thing), various washers and bolts that shouldn't be re-used, anything that is stuck or breaks due to age or rust, there is a fuel line that you MUST replace or risk losing your car (and possibly your life or the life of the tech) in a fire as the fuel line can slip off if re-used (doesn't have the tension any more), etc... All these things are things that HAVE to be replaced, but legally and technically are not part of the engine core and thus not covered under the warranty.

I exclude things like starter, clutch, plugs, etc... because the dealer will re-use all of that, unless they find a problem that demands a replacement, you ask for the replacement, or they just want to up charge you. Yes, they will re-use your plugs, coils, wires, etc...

However, of the items that HAVE to be replaced, many dealers don't charge the customer at all. Many charge them for some, but not all, and some charge for everything. It really varies all over the place. My engine replacement cost me $57, as I needed new belts, and that was the dealer's belt price. Didn't get charged for anything else, even though they rightfully could have. Usually, people aren't that lucky.

Failing spec is any 1 rotor face under spec, OR all rotor faces above spec, but there is too great of a difference between adjacent rotors. The chart has been posted, and the failing line is based on what RPM your starter spins the engine at.

No, 6.9 is the line for replacement, but it's possible to have compression numbers in the 9s. That is just a chart showing that for the maximum expected starter speed, the point of failure can get to about 6.9. A perfectly new engine should regularly produce numbers in the 8s.

 

Just got my own compression tested, 4.3 4.3 4.2 on the front and 4.9 4.8 4.8 on the rear. Funny thing is it still pulls hard and managed to dyno 186WHP a few months prior.

 

Thank you Riwwp! I will be getting the test done this week. Do you know if there are any common problems I maycrun into if I get a reman engine? CEL always on? Coolant light always on? Mechanical malfunctions? Etc.

 

Nope.

 

Wrong, cheapest is 125 bux + core charge

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...4_192299_5467_

My Updated starter has bit the dust, so I got a Beck & Arnley Reman cuz I don't feel like trusting Autozone ... and it's still cheaper than 299

 

I don't need to do this unless my engine fails the test with this tool that I have ...

 

Haha, stealership sums it up perfectly

 

actually if i get the comp test done, and i have to get a new engine, will mazda ask me for proof of oil changes?

 

it's typical to ask for records.

 

that could be a problem...i always do it myself?

 

Oh, you just need to go into your mymazda login and update all your information that you forgot to put in earlier. You must have forgotten to do that when you did all your oil changes.

BC.

 

Blade,youre a lifesaver! Thank you

 

Yup, I've maintained my records there. When the dealer asked for them, I pulled up the webpage on my tablet and handed it to the rep. He glanced it over, and asked if I could email it to him, so I saved the page as a file and emailed it from the desk right there. Zero problems.

 

If he cant pull it up on his computer, i could always do the same thing you did as well. Ill be going in on friday this week. RIWWP do you happen to know if when they perform the comp test do they crank the motor manually? Or do they actually plug in the comp tester and turn the engine on and run it? Because i have an aftermarket intake, i really do not feel like putting up with their crap and trying to void my warranty, or try saying "oh well you have an aftermarket intake so it messed up your compression blah blah blah warranty voided".

 

One of the key numbers in the compression test results is the starter crank speed. That should give you a clue as to how they rotate the engine during the test.

An intake will not legally void your engine warranty. They could hassle you about it though.

 

Okay, thats what i thought An intake will/can not effect compression numbers, correct? And if I get a reman engine, would I have to pay for OEM intake since they send my original engine back to Mazda?

Sorry for all the questions. I just want this done the right way, with the least possible amount of trouble, time, and money wasted.

 

The intake can not affect compression results

The intake will be removed before the engine is removed from the car, and should be re-installed on the replacement engine. It's not "part of the engine" at all. Even the throttle body, UIM, and LIM are downstream of your intake, and will be moved to the new engine.

This is literally all that gets replaced:

(though this is a rebuild from Pineapple Racing, not a reman, and the flywheel peeking out behind it may not be there, they may re-use your flywheel. Reports seem to differ)

 

Hmmm...i see. Hopefully they do replace the flywheel, thatd be cool Thank you for all your help RIWWP, and everyone else. I really appreciate it!