Originally Posted by rz-jacks

hmmmm... ok.... how is it that mazda manages to magically break in the rings from the factory?

Originally Posted by rz-jacks

hmmmm... ok.... how is it that mazda manages to magically break in the rings from the factory?

Originally Posted by rz-jacks

I just realized I referred to the seals as rings.... I meant all the seal surfaces that are in contact with another surface. I'm burned out from finals hahahaha. Anyways I do see your point about breaking in the bearings so they acquire the right tolerances. But nowadays machining has become so precise that the only thing that needs breaking in are the metal to metal contact SURFACES. All the tolerances are pretty much very accurate. That is exactly why motor makers put special coatings of their metal surfaces (the same coating you are talking about is what they put on cams to allow the surfaces on them to break in) The real reason why they put that coating on there is because it allows the surface to retain oil while the surface is still acquiring the desired finish. That coating is exactly why you CAN rev up the engine when its new with positive results. Before, when engines in general didn't have that coating from factory, they had to be broken in the granny way because otherwise all the surfaces would streak if you pushed it because the couldn't retain oil very well. That's why you need to take advantage of the coating.

Originally Posted by Robomatt

Hi everyone, I have an 2010 R3 model @9400km. When I bought the car the dealer said nothing about breaking in procedure. He said that I could drive the car any way I want, no restrictions. So I took the car from the shop, drove and heard this amazing engine sound! Then I punched the gas and even did 8000 rpms
Well you could say that it is a common knowledge not to do that many rpms during break in procedure, but I beleive that the dealer shoud have warned me at least. Then I would be very cautious.
Now I feel very bad. I think for about 1500km I used the car with high rpms. Then I used it max 4000rpms until 3000kms.
So far nothing bad happenned, but I really feel bad. Do you think that I might have damaged the engine? Would this affect fuel consumption, sealing problems etc.?

Originally Posted by Rotary Inspired

2000 miles is plenty for a break in period and what I advise on engines I have built w/ new bearings for 8 years now. I tell everyone to keep it under 4K for the first 1000 and slowly bring the revs up another 1000 over the course of each 200 mile mark. The apex and side seals are not the major concerns of a new engine as after about 5 heat cycles they have bedded themselves in properly. Its the bearings that are the issue and the reason new bearings are not needed unless showing more than 20% copper on the bearing on tear down. Some builders will argue that more copper needs to show before changing bearings due to increased chances in spinning them. Many race engines use bearings turned on a lathe until nothing but copper is showing and then run a higher oil pressure for this reason. I have even tested ripping them from mile 1 to see the differences in break in, which were really non existent, but risk the chance of spinning a bearing and fusing it to the eshaft (no fun) is much greater and the reason for break in rules.

Copied and pasted from one of my posts in another thread. You are good to go just enjoy the car. There is a lot of paranoia on this forum about these engines. Keep good oil (10-30 minimum weight, I recommend 10-40) change it every 3k and enjoy your new ride. If you feel the urge to premix it will never hurt anything.

Originally Posted by rz-jacks

I just realized I referred to the seals as rings.... I meant all the seal surfaces that are in contact with another surface. I'm burned out from finals hahahaha. Anyways I do see your point about breaking in the bearings so they acquire the right tolerances. But nowadays machining has become so precise that the only thing that needs breaking in are the metal to metal contact SURFACES. All the tolerances are pretty much very accurate. That is exactly why motor makers put special coatings of their metal surfaces (the same coating you are talking about is what they put on cams to allow the surfaces on them to break in) The real reason why they put that coating on there is because it allows the surface to retain oil while the surface is still acquiring the desired finish. That coating is exactly why you CAN rev up the engine when its new with positive results. Before, when engines in general didn't have that coating from factory, they had to be broken in the granny way because otherwise all the surfaces would streak if you pushed it because the couldn't retain oil very well. That's why you need to take advantage of the coating.

Originally Posted by Texas RX8 R3

I also have a '10 R3 and I can 100% relate with you. I most probably drove it just like you're explaining in your post lol. I later found out about the break-in procedures, and also felt bad like you. But now I'm perfectly happy, and my car still drives like new!

Enjoy it to the fullest with no worries man!



Lol, I was thinking the same thing 'cuz I remembered the exact words from your post on my thread hahahe!

Originally Posted by rz-jacks

hmmmm... ok.... how is it that mazda manages to magically break in the rings from the factory?

Originally Posted by New Yorker

OP: Being **** about my car, this is precisely the kind of thing that would bother me, too. But I suspect, like others say, it's not that big a deal. I would forget about it and just enjoy the car. Which, I bet, is exactly what you'll do.