bryan4140

iTrader: (2)

I am installing a rebuilt engine and would like to clean up the apv valves on the lim before putting everything back together. Any recommendations on what type of cleaning chemicals/ agents to use? is a basic degreaser alright to use? Also, are there any other things that are recommended to be cleaned/ looked over before installing the engine?

Hesselrode

iTrader: (3)

I used purple power. It worked really well. I let it soak and the scrub and let it soak then scrub, etc. I would check the valves in the uim, and clean them as well. I would also clean your oil injectors and lines. If those are clogged, which I'm Willing to bet they are, you won't get any oil from the omp to the engine. I used purple power for that as well. Just some advice, use some latex gloves or something.

sweatr

Have you checked the battery in the fob?.

Tweaked Tay

Everything else on the fob works fine. Opening the trunk, locking the driver's door, arming the alarm.... could it still be the battery?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

WOW...no...it isn't the fob

Try the power lock actuator in the passenger door...

Nathan Atkins

Either that or the wiring and connection to it, I'd do that first

sweatr

How much is a fob battery??. Try the battery. My fob battery was weak and did work some functions and not others. The battery costs maybe $2.00??, give it a try as you should change batteries every year any way. If it doesn't solve the problem you have a new battery.

royse626

Okay im in the market for an 8 and after reading the start here thread i would assume that the 04 would not be a viabe choice if it has over 70k miles. Im seeing that alot of 8s in my area that im looking at have 70k+ miles and i was wondering if it would be wise to go with a newer model with 70k that a older model of the same milage. Can someone please help me?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Curious ... Why would you reject a 2004 with 80,000 miles on the chassis and a brand new engine?

Why would you accept a 2008 with 20,000 miles and a blown engine?

poacherinthezoo

I'm at 36k (exactly), I recently got a pending trouble code for slow HO2S response, (P0136 I think, can't remember the numbers) which went away after another drive cycle.

I noticed today that after driving the car hard, that there was a circular ring of glowing red right around the outside of the (post-cat) O2 sensor. Just wondering if this is normal (never thought to check before), as the entire cat isn't glowing as if the cat itself was dead, just the ring immediately around the O2 sensor.

Catalyst temperature was at 1,600F prior to looking under the car (let it run till it dropped below 1,300F before I shut the engine off).

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It's common, but not ok. You cat is clogging up.

bladeiai

iTrader: (1)

What is the proper name for this brace which runs across directly below the rear of the cat pipe?



Also look at the top more than the bottom... as the bottom is horribly mangled... hence why I need to the name/part number...

EricB

iTrader: (7)

^ its the oem under chassis bracing.

I just took mine out for the AutoExe bracing kit which replaces the 2 oem braces (kit also replaces the front crossmember, but i bought it used without it)

one side has 2 holes and the other side has 2 open holes where you can slide a bolt in from the side.

bladeiai

iTrader: (1)

I don't suppose anyone has the part number?

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

One of these two

Tunnel Cross Memeber: F151-56-H20B

Trans Cross member:F152-56-H10

This site is your friend
http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual

bladeiai

iTrader: (1)

Awesome, You are a gentleman and a scholar.

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Title pretty much sums it up. While driving on the interstate for the 4th time I just loose the ability to change gears. Pedal feels fine when it happens, still has pressure. Pumping the pedal does not seem to help. Only slowing down to about 40mph seems to let me start shifting again. Then it acts normal.

Checked the pedal, do not see any cracks in the weld.
The pedal does move side to side a little, but not more than when I bought the car.
Fluid is less than one year old and full.
Clutch is probably on its way out. It often jerks a lot when starting in first.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Can you shift without using the clutch pedal? Entirely doable on a working transmission, just unload the gears, pop it out of gear into neutral, rev match for the rpm of the gear you are going to and gently slide it into gear. If you can, it's probably a bursting clutch disc that has too much material jammed everywhere to disengage completely, or failing hydrailics that isn't transmitting the entire leverage to the clutch. In 1st gear on flat ground foot off the brake clutch pedal to the floor, if the car tries to pull forward still this would confirm the problem.

Pull the starter and look for shredded clutch material in the bellhousing. If none, start with hydraulics. If shredded material is there, your clutch disc has burst.

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Yes, I can Rev match into what ever gear I want to. The transmission has started grinding when driving aggressively recently, I have to shift slowly when I'm above 7k but only for shifting 3-4, 4-5, and 6-5. Shifting 1-2, 2-3, 4-3, 6-4, 6-3, and 2-1 it shifts perfectly fine and I can be as aggressive as I want. I've also always had a issues with starting in first, it seems like the clutch grabs at different points, sometimes right when you release it, sometimes the pedal is half way up before it grabs. The jerking when I take off seems to happen more when it grabs as soon as the pedal start to travel up.

Breaks over I'll edit and add to this in a couple of hours. Thanks.

Continuing...

In the past I have tried adjusting the "clutch grab point" on the pedal, with no help, it just continues to grab at different points.

On my way home today.. I did like you stated: foot off brake, foot on clutch. When selecting first, it will make a jerking feeling/motion but only if I do it quickly (push clutch in then immediately put in first), after that I can select any gear quickly and it just slides in. I also reconfirmed I can rev match shift (up shifting) every gear (except first obviously) perfectly fine. I did grind my first attempt into 5th gear, but was off on the revs. I only attempted and succeeded to (down shift) rev match 4-3.


When I changed the starter sometime in 2011 it did have a lot of dust inside the bellhousing. The car has always jerked since I bought it, I thought it was the clutch pedal because it keeps grabbing at different heights. Every clutch failure I ever experienced started with it slipping. This clutch grabs the same way the pedal acts, never quite the same. Sometimes it slips like crazy when starting in first (smooth) sometimes it grabs quickly and jerks. I planed to change it and the flywheel when I replace the motor, the problem is the engine is lasting longer than expected.

I'll pull the starter tomorrow if it's not raining and take another look to confirm.


Oh, and if it matters...
RedLine MT90 changed yearly.
Brake fluid flushed yearly.
Thanks again.

JSIVIA93

Hey guys i was driving on the highway was not speeding nothing and my car just shut off on me and i towed it home and it now it wont even start even changed the battery does anyone have any suggestions to what the problem could be ???

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It's almost certainly a fueling problem. Either you ran out of gas (you might be out of gas if the gauge broke and shows higher than empty), or the fuel pump died. If you can suddenly fire it up tomorrow, it's the fuel pump for sure.

A few other very rare possibilities, but a sudden shut down at speed in gear with no accompanying weird noises (you didn't mention any) is very nearly always a fuel pump failure. The pump overheats and shuts off. Usually it will start working again once it cools down sufficiently, however it will just overheat again, so it still needs to be replaced.

Be wary with driving on a failing fuel pump though, higher load on the engine accelerates the overheating and failure, and if it fails with a high load on the engine the sudden lean condition is enough to blow your engine. Yes, it has happened, and it's happened to plenty of people.

laisianto

Hi guys and gals,

I'm also new to the club!!!I just bought an rx-8 '07,automatic transmission with almost 130K kilometers on it..

I just have some questions,

First of all,how do I save gas using automatic transmission?I saw some posts saying that driving slowly is a good idea, but some others said it doesn't actually matter, can anyone help please?because my first fill up gave me 14.3L/100km,which is pretty bad..

Secondly, how often do I need to rev 6000rpm?Do I really need to do that so that the carbon won't build up?even if my rx-8 is an A/T?

Thirdly,does anyone who lives in coquitlam knows where is the best place to cure dents?And where is the best place to have the car cleaned up(interior and exterior and engine maybe?)?

Cheers!

Note:
I know that there might be answers somewhere in the posts in the club, but I just couldn't find it..So if you can, can any of you give me answers for my questions here please?Thx

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Dents Unlimited in Port Moody on ST Johns and Williams? is one of the best in the business in Vancouver..give them a call. I have seen them take a baseball sized dent out of a door and there was nothing at all left when they were done

Best thing is to drive it like you stole it....it really doesn't make the mileage much worse and it's a lot more fun

Carbon buildup tends to be worse in an AT because they shift early driving it easy and that isnt a good thing

Slidin8

Does anyone know if this will pull the pilot bearing? Thanks

weka2000

New here ..... what is "type s" ?