Jdm model which is the sports model with a 6port 6speed

Source: I own one

 

2 newbie question

does anyone have a list of all the acronyms used here

 

Ok so I pulled the starter and found a lot of crap... New clutch kit it is.
Went ahead and changed the tranny fluid too. Magnet didn't have much on it so I guess that's good...

Thanks again.


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Time for another stupid question!!!!!!

So, it's thrown around that for best mpg you should keep her under 3.8k due to the next set of fuel injectors being turned on (or something like that) And the user manual states that you shouldn't maintain rpms above 7k for prolonged periods of time. Now say I don't care about mpg :D . Can I cruise at higher rpm or does it become progressively worse for the engine the higher rpm's I maintain?

 

I have read that maintaining high RPM for extended periods IS harmful, FWIW.. Periodic high RPM is beneficial to help in reducing carbon buildup. Logically, lower RPM = better MPG. Also good for initial driving till oil temps are normal.

 

Yep it says it right in the manual "Don't maintain rpm's above 7k" (or something close to that) BUT I'm talking about the grey area between 3.8k and 7k. I love the 5k tone..... but I'm afraid to cruise at 5k because I don't know if it'll deteriorate my engine faster.

 

I think it's safe to assume 5k RPM vs. 4k will cause more wear & tear, especially with higher summer temps.

 

.......Not that I don't appreciate your input, but I think we both knew that much. I'm asking if it's unsafe to sustain those higher rpm's.

 

As long as you keep an eye on the coolant (and if possible oil temps) then cruising at 5k rpms is unlikely to produce any issue. These engines were meant to spin!

With that said it is worth noting a few things:
1) The factory temperature gauge is completely and utterly useless. It won't move until you're engine is already too hot.
OBDII readers like the Ultra Gauge and Scan Gauge are cheap and super easy to install (plug it in, and suction cup it to the windshield like a GPS) and they will allow you to keep an eye on your REAL coolant temperature (but not oil temp). Also very handy for reading codes and diagnosing problems. Since they operate off the OBDII port they work in any car made after 1996

2) The oil plays a significant role in engine cooling, and temperature is directly related to how fast your oil breaks down (the rate of EVERY chemical reaction increases with temperature). So if you do run extended periods of time at higher rpms do take that into consideration when deciding how often you plan on changing your oil.

3) One of the areas for potential engine problems comes from the side seals overheating. In theory the oil injectors should be keeping this in check, but that's not to say people haven't experienced problems in the past.


Above all else - Enjoy the car! The rotary is one hell of a tactile, addictive engine - from its unique exhaust note to the smooth and linear feel.

 

Thanks for the input . On the topic of temps I have my old tablet mounted in my car running torque so I always keep my eyes on that. Would you recommend me upping the weight of my oil?
I'm still using 5-20 from Mazda as I have another 6 months left on my warranty and I want to avoid as many issues as possible. Would it be a bit more healthy to drop some 5-30 or even 0-40 in there? ( besides the fact that they are already recommended. )

 

To the best of my knowledge oil weight won't have any affect in terms side seal longevity. However, far be it from me to steer anyone away from using a higher weight oil (I'm a 10W-40 user myself so you could say I'm bias).


At the risk of starting another oil debate I'll leave it at that.

 

Mechanics won't know what weight your oil is, unless they decide to test it (which they will MOST LIKELY not do). I won't start "The Debate", but I'd recommend at least 5W30

 

Oil weight and type affect the e-shaft bearings.
Oil presence affects side seal

Get a sohn adapter to stop burning dirty 4 stroke, then use a good high viscosity synthetic for the high sheer environment the bearings see.

 

How do you tell if your engine fuse is blown?
Is it the big-*** blue one in the middle of the fuse box?
Having no success starting her, just getting the notorious click...

 

I've got a misfire at idle with no CEL. It only does it at idle.
Also, 1 out of 10 times it'll "stumble" when I take off from a stop. As in, when I first let the clutch out the car tries to stall (hasn't stalled yet).

Going to clean my Maf tomorrow and save for the bhr ignition kit.
I just bought the car; second owner. The first owner was an older woman so I know they car has never been ran hard (good and bad thing). 44k miles on an 06. Compression came back alright.

 

I am looking for a shop manual (paper or electronic) that gives good diagrams of systems in the RX. I have been viewing some of the YouTube video's on doing some maintenance, but I do better in reading a manual.

 

Normalexception.net - Documents

Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals

 

So this morning I did my usual 1st & 2nd gear redline on the on ramp. Clutch pedal went dead. No pressure... Managed to quickly Rev match into 3rd. Started pumping it, but got nothing till the rpms went below 4k.



______________

Did some Google searching, other car forms with similar problems are reporting it's the pressure plate that is failing.

 

I must comment and say ....Thank you for posting the gauge pod install and after mod. I was fretting with this problem until I read that over. Thank you for posting that I put in on my fav list.

 

Most appreciated. I will drop him some $$ for hit effort. Just what I needed

 

I know you get what you pay for, but there seems to be a wide range of prices for things like coils and spark plug wires. Read the coil thread and saw a lot of different brands mentioned. Looks like coils run from 28 to 39 on OE parts page. 50 on others 68 a piece on others up to 500 for a set on the performance pages.

Some, like Napa, have warranties.

Don't want something that is going to fail in a few hundred miles, but would like to not blow my cash for HP stuff I don't need

 

Hi. Got mine from Advance in March, no problems, lifetime warranty. Many say they keep the receipt and swap out new ones for free every 30k, no questions asked.

 

Can anyone point me In the right direction. I am wondering where all of my grounds are! My gauge cluster turns on and off all the time I am guessing one of my grounds is loose but I can not find it!!!!

 

disconnect, clean, and securely reconnect your battery connections. they are almost always the culprit for dash cluster problems

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Anyone!?