Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#2828
You gonna eat that?
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I bought mine from advanced, they have a lifetime warranty.
Many here have said after 30k they simply return them, and get new ones free, no questions asked.
You have to keep the receipt.
I'm on my first set, about 10k so far, it'll be a while before I get new ones.
Many here have said after 30k they simply return them, and get new ones free, no questions asked.
You have to keep the receipt.
I'm on my first set, about 10k so far, it'll be a while before I get new ones.
#2829
I've fit 8 17x9 255/40/17s in my car pretty easily, so don't lose help yet. My little brother's a drifter so I haul rims and tires more often than I probably should. Height might be an issue this way though, but I put them standing up running parallel to the back of the seats. You'll have to push them away from the doors to get them closed, but if it works (again, it could be problematic with 19s) and if you slide the seats forward you can fit 2 on each backseat (a 8.5s and a 9.5) and another (8.5) on the floor between the seats. This leaves one in the trunk and one in the passenger seat... Try to fit the one on the floor and you'll find out pretty quick if this'll work. Good luck.
Also, when hauling bodies they're easy enough to move bits to make them fit. There's no question you could fit two average people in the trunk as long as they weren't struggling. ^.^
Also, when hauling bodies they're easy enough to move bits to make them fit. There's no question you could fit two average people in the trunk as long as they weren't struggling. ^.^
#2830
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Hey guys, quick question: I lowered my care with Racing Beat springs on stock shocks. Got an alignment a week later. I'm planning on getting 1-inch wheel spacers all around. Would I need an alignment after that. Thanks in advance!
#2832
Yo guys I've had mine on about two months now and they've settled I was wondering if the reason its lower on the left rear than the right is because of my body weight. When they were first put on they were maybe an 8th off but measured thee same on the collars. Any ideas?
#2833
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A some what sacrilegious question, but are there any piston engines Mazda makes that will fit in the RX without severe modification?
Reason I ask is there is a beautiful body RX fort sale with a blown motor in town . probably cost the same or more to put another type motor than yto buy a rebuilt rotary, but I was just wondering.
Reason I ask is there is a beautiful body RX fort sale with a blown motor in town . probably cost the same or more to put another type motor than yto buy a rebuilt rotary, but I was just wondering.
#2835
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#2836
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Yo guys I've had mine on about two months now and they've settled I was wondering if the reason its lower on the left rear than the right is because of my body weight. When they were first put on they were maybe an 8th off but measured thee same on the collars. Any ideas?
#2839
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Buy a manual 6 speed. Automatics are dogs, i know i own one. I love mine and the driveability of the car, i don't cconcern my self with greater speed especcially light to light as there is very little torq in the 8 automatic off the line(Dogs). Seriously if you want more speed you are limited by the automatic.
Last edited by sweatr; 11-03-2013 at 07:00 PM.
#2840
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Thanks, dannobre! I was thinking about that but wasn't sure whether the "offset" would affect the current alignment.
#2841
starting vibration? help!
when I start my car it sounds great but when you put it in drive it starts shaking and vibrating but it smooths out after you get passed 1500 rpms .....I was thinking mabey a C02 sensor? I don't know I havnt had the car long....please help!
Last edited by RIWWP; 11-06-2013 at 07:53 AM. Reason: removed auto-links
#2842
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If the idle itself is stable but the car is vibrating physically, it's the motor mounts.
If the idle is fluctuating AND the car is vibrating physically, start with ignition coils, plugs, and wires.
If the idle is fluctuating AND the car is vibrating physically, start with ignition coils, plugs, and wires.
#2843
it idles fine until you put it in drive then it starts shaking a little every 2 sec......so which 1 would tht be?...ive heard from like 2 ppl that the shaking is normal for a rotary but I don't think so.
#2845
#2846
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motor is done- didnt know where to post this
Okay so I didn't know where exactly to post this and I didn't want to be yelled at for putting it in the wrong place. I was driving and without any warning or lights indicating a problem the temperature gauge pinned itself hot and dropped all the way cold and went to normal temperature. because of this I thought it was a thermostat issue and not the radiator. I would have pulled over right then but was maybe 1/8 of a mile from where my work was, I could see the office and I was coasting in neutral. as I entered the parking lot to the work the car shut itself off. When I checked it it was pouring out anti freeze. I had the radiator replaced a few days later and the car drove fine for that day when I picked it up from the mechanic. The next day the car wouldn't start. I tried every deflooding procedure and popping the clutch but nothing worked. In a last ditch effort I pulled the car around my neighborhood in 2nd gear at around 25mph. after going around the block once it started. It smoked ALOT. enough that I expected someone to call the fire department LOL. But it was a sweet smell that I think was the smell of antifreeze burning. after about 2-4 minutes the smoking subsided and the car was running perfectly fine. I drove it around for 20 min and everything was fine. I wanted to make sure everything worked so I wanted to redline a gear, I was in second and at around 7,000 - 7,500 rpm the car stopped pulling, it felt like the fuel cut off like when a car is governed and you hit that speed and then it stops accelerating and slows itself down. after that I tried it from 3rd and it was fine, I redlined it completely. since it was fine I tried it from a stop and redlined 1-3rd and everything was fine. I brought the car home and the next day it wouldn't start. Im assuming a blew some seals or a gasket or something major that I need a new motor. I have already accepted that. could someone confirm that for me? or is there a way to check that? with all this being said I simply love this car and love driving this car too much, so I decided not to just get rid of the car. I have been looking on the forum and am having trouble finding a remanufactured motor. I saw a previous post about motors from mazmart I think and the forum is old and closed. I am not sure where to find them now for a good price. I would also be open to a used motor as long as its a fellow member here that is trusted so I don't get a crappy motor that's about to die. If anyone can give me some suggestions or point me in the right direction I would appreciate the help.
#2847
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Yes, something failed in your cooling system and destroyed your motor. You can confirm through:
- Pull an oil sample and test for coolant
- Have the coolant tested for the presence of combustion gases
- Pressure test the cooling system to confirm it can't hold pressure (only if you know you don't have any other leaks)
- Let the car sit 12 hours +, crank it with the gas pedal to the floor for a few seconds, then pull the plugs and check to see if they have coolant on them
If even 1 of these tests is positive, you have a coolant seal failure. If all of them are negative, then you probably don't.
You can loose a coolant seal before the stock water temp gauge even starts moving though, and it's pretty much impossible to avoid if it gets full hot. All your symptoms agree with a coolant seal failure too.
Mazmart is still around, Mazmart.com, paul@mazmart.com, and (800) 221-5156.
- Pull an oil sample and test for coolant
- Have the coolant tested for the presence of combustion gases
- Pressure test the cooling system to confirm it can't hold pressure (only if you know you don't have any other leaks)
- Let the car sit 12 hours +, crank it with the gas pedal to the floor for a few seconds, then pull the plugs and check to see if they have coolant on them
If even 1 of these tests is positive, you have a coolant seal failure. If all of them are negative, then you probably don't.
You can loose a coolant seal before the stock water temp gauge even starts moving though, and it's pretty much impossible to avoid if it gets full hot. All your symptoms agree with a coolant seal failure too.
Mazmart is still around, Mazmart.com, paul@mazmart.com, and (800) 221-5156.
Last edited by RIWWP; 11-08-2013 at 09:33 AM.
#2848
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Yes, something failed in your cooling system and destroyed your motor. You can confirm through:
- Oil an oil sample and test for coolant
- Have the coolant tested for the presence of combustion gases
- Pressure test the cooling system to confirm it can't hold pressure (only if you know you don't have any other leaks)
- Let the car sit 12 hours +, crank it with the gas pedal to the floor for a few seconds, then pull the plugs and check to see if they have coolant on them
If even 1 of these tests is positive, you have a coolant seal failure. If all of them are negative, then you probably don't.
You can loose a coolant seal before the stock water temp gauge even starts moving though, and it's pretty much impossible to avoid if it gets full hot. All your symptoms agree with a coolant seal failure too.
Mazmart is still around, Mazmart.com, paul@mazmart.com, and (800) 221-5156.
- Oil an oil sample and test for coolant
- Have the coolant tested for the presence of combustion gases
- Pressure test the cooling system to confirm it can't hold pressure (only if you know you don't have any other leaks)
- Let the car sit 12 hours +, crank it with the gas pedal to the floor for a few seconds, then pull the plugs and check to see if they have coolant on them
If even 1 of these tests is positive, you have a coolant seal failure. If all of them are negative, then you probably don't.
You can loose a coolant seal before the stock water temp gauge even starts moving though, and it's pretty much impossible to avoid if it gets full hot. All your symptoms agree with a coolant seal failure too.
Mazmart is still around, Mazmart.com, paul@mazmart.com, and (800) 221-5156.
#2849
What should I get??
Okay, so I'm new to this and am getting an 8 pretty soon. I was wondering what part I should buy first performance wise... Like should I buy a cold air intake first? Or maybe an exhaust system? Plus, I've never driven a stick before, so this'll be my first manual car lol. So any tips on that as well would be great.. thanks guys!
#2850
Yank My Wankel
iTrader: (4)
Okay, so I'm new to this and am getting an 8 pretty soon. I was wondering what part I should buy first performance wise... Like should I buy a cold air intake first? Or maybe an exhaust system? Plus, I've never driven a stick before, so this'll be my first manual car lol. So any tips on that as well would be great.. thanks guys!