CRO8TIA

Dave, my uneducated guess would be it is a balance tube, though I have been wrong once previously.

All_Day_Dre

iTrader: (2)

i got code P2259, which based on what i read here is a bad air pump solenoid valve. im gonna get it fixed soon, and was told i should be fine to drive. based on what ive read the 8 has 3 way solenoid that are interchangeable underneath the intake manifold, the air pump solenoid being the top one of the three. this much i understand...what i don't understand mechanically is the solenoid it self, is it three switches? the top switch controls the valve located at the air pump? just trying to learn here. thanks

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

The electrical solenoid operates a mechanical valve (top one of the three you mentioned) that opens up the vacuum chamber to the vacuum actuator on the air pump .

Rx8 Dave

Thanks and LOL re: your response Croatia (CRO8TIA). By the way, what is a balance tube and what does it do? Thanks again!

Original Question: Can someone tell me what the tube running from the accordion part of the cold air intake to the back/inside of the lower intake manifold is for/what it does (see attached drawing with tube in red)? Thanks!

Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

Theses are the solenoids. If you have skinny arms, once you're engine has cooled you may be able to reach behind the UIM. One person in this link: P2259 - Locating the Air Solenoid have posted that he was able to do just that.



Below is what it looks like. Unplug the the blue male-end connection and bend that clip at the bottom so you to slide the solenoid out.

a12chan6el

I recently installed a Mazdaspeed Dual Exhaust Catback. I immediately noticed a buzzing/rattling noise coming from the back. I doublechecked my work and didn't find anything out of place. I then thought it was the heatshields (found threads about the exhaust hangers contracting due to the heat and making the heatshields contact with the exhaust) but did find any clearance issues. I finally pinpointed it to the license plate and the frame.

I took the frame off and noticed a dramatic decrease in the buzzing. I took the license plate off and no more buzzing. At first I tried bending the license plate to hug the bumper but it didn't work. I used double-sided tape, didn't work either (it would just come undone after a few minutes of driving). Do any of you have thoughts on what I can use as a backing or if there are any mounting methods that I can use to stop the plate from buzzing on my bumper?

I realize that this is a fickle and minor issue but I thought I'd get your input. I didn't want to start a new thread in the Troubleshooting section as this, I think, qualifies as a "dumb question".

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Try a couple of pieces of foam tape....

a12chan6el

Thanks, dannobre! I'll try that too but I'm worried about the longevity of the tape. I was hoping to find a more permanent solution. Something along the lines of using some sort of rubber backing on the plate and on the frame.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

The outdoor foam weatherstrip tape is quite resilient...give it a try. I have some that is 3 years old that is holding up well...

a12chan6el

Awesome! It didn't cross my mind that I could use foam weatherstrip. When you said "foam tape" I was thinking the kind you get from office supply stores. Thanks, for the help!

robert1234

Hi, the speaker on my dash sounds busted. Although its not whenever i press down on it with my hand or something the "clink" sound stops. Do you think its the plastic covering the speaker? Like the plastic with all the little holes?

Ameer Mather

2007 Hi Power RX8 in South Africa :Does having software done lead to shorter coil life? my car was sent to a local tuner who has been around for years and he "did the software upgrades" and yes the car is a lot faster and was fine for 10 000 kms but then suddenly it started misfiring..upon checking 2 of the coils are dead...i have been quoted almost R 10 000 to get new coils x 4 new plugs x 4 and new leads x 4. i have checked and can get these from ebay shipped for R 3000. all NGK Branded (autotechusa) and (anhautoparts)
Also is there a diiference with the re 7 cl n 8 plugs because agents here can only supply the 8?

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

I'm curious how he did "Software Upgrades". Mazda factory coils fail. Period.

Ameer Mather

when i 1st got the car my bro in law took to him to have it remapped as a bday present and like i said when i got it back there was a substantial power increase and dyno sheets supplied etc... my question really about the coils is what sort of lifespan can be expected on a tuned car.

Jazzmeson

iTrader: (5)

Would it be too late to switch over to synthetic along with an SOHN adapter at 56,000 miles? Currently using Castrol GTX 5W30 every 3,000.

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

There is no difference in coil life between tuned and untuned. Every 30,000 miles on any of the OEM coils or OEM-like replacement coils is when you should expect to replace them. Unless you upgrade to a BHR ignition kit.

It's never too late to do the right thing. If you are asking if your engine has already lost compression, you will have to get a compression test to find out.

Jazzmeson

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, car is actually running well. Just finally looked into getting a Richard SOHN adapter. Another dumb question is, what brand do people tend to favor when it comes to synthetic oil? Just so I'll have an idea before I just dump in something that won't do any better than what I currently use.

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

Thats a very very bad question to ask

The majority are running Mobil 0W40, it was tested a out of other others it provides the beast protection for bearing where, I only switched to it after I installed my SOHN.

While your at it I would switch to using the S2 oil filter as well as it is also far superior.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Can you elaborate please ... was not aware of that . Will it screw straight on ?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I'm not sure sure about that S2 oil filter statement. It is designed for a higher oil pressure than the S1 filter, and that can play unpleasantly with things like bypass pressure relief. The bypass pressure on an S2 filter would be far higher than the S1, and if the filter gets blocked, the S1 might not be able to reach the bypass pressure.

Jazzmeson

iTrader: (5)

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the help. I figured it was a really stupid question considering all the oil threads haha. The BMW people tend to favor Mobil 1 0W40 as well and that's what we currently use for my dad's E46 323i. I'll definitely consider it once I order my SOHN.

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

badinfluence

There are TONS of Vac tubes and solenoids. I am also interested in how half of them work... I hear about 3 random kinds of clicks at idle and Vac goes up and down.

Rx8 Dave

(1) On my Series I there are pointy rubber cushions with the backs pressed into holes in the lower body door frames to cushion the closing of the front doors. Get two of those or similar parts from Mazda, a parts supply, etc., drill two holes under the lower license plate, touch up the hole with paint so it won't rust, cut the cushions to size, then just press install. (2) There are some strong adhesive backed and strong holding Velcro hook and loop fastener tapes (Google Velcro) the hook side tape you can attach to the car body and the loop side tape you can attach to the license plate (or vice versa) so you have a pretty permanent attachment, but can still change the license plate. I haven't used the tapes for license plates, but on other weather exposed and heavy applications and the tapes stayed put permanently from what I can tell so far. (3) Go to the parts store, get two bolt and plastic nut license plate attachments (like used to attach many license plates at the top - the plastic nuts have an extension so are made to go in holes in the body) [you'll have to drill - see (1) above]. The nuts press fit in the holes and you just secure the license plate with the bolts. (4) Get some of the putty stick (two color) epoxy from the hardware store, knead it into two nubs and stick them on the body under the license plate. (5) wads of chewing gum:. Good luck!

Rx8 Dave

Don't know what the clicks are badman, my '04 doesn't click (so far, knock on wood after 100K miles). Maybe there's a clog or a hole somewhere in a Vac line. Also, maybe the clicking is a bad solenoid. Two of the solenoids are for the SSV and VDI valves that cut in much higher than idle speed, and the third one is for the air pump pumping air into the exhaust to help warm up the engine fast, so maybe its that one. Unless there's a hole somewhere, or maybe a bad check valve, don't know why Vac would go up/down. See, attached diagram. Maybe your fuel trims are screwed up? Any recent changes/repairs/updates?

Cro8tia said the line in red on the attached diagram is a balance tube, but I have no idea what it does, unless it has something to do with the fluctuating air pressure in the lower intake manifold as the rotors rotate.

Rx8 Dave

I still use good 'ol fossil (mineral) oil. Has MAZDA changed its position against using synthetic oil? See, http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/9...eniawankel.jpg. Also, since the rotary burns oil, wouldn't it be better to use fossil oil (which is the same stuff that is refined into gasoline)?