Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
03-08-2014, 12:37 AM
#3226
Wankler
Speaker
03-08-2014, 09:27 PM
#3228
Wankler
I've got a Pioneer /Alpine system. Could the dash have delaminated? Still may be that the speaker is loose. Sounds like he'll have to get under the dash.
03-08-2014, 10:13 PM
#3229
I still use good 'ol fossil (mineral) oil. Has MAZDA changed its position against using synthetic oil? 
See, http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/9...eniawankel.jpg. Also, since the rotary burns oil, wouldn't it be better to use fossil oil (which is the same stuff that is refined into gasoline)?
See, http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/9...eniawankel.jpg. Also, since the rotary burns oil, wouldn't it be better to use fossil oil (which is the same stuff that is refined into gasoline)?For that mater no Mazda dealer in the US uses dino they all switched over to synthetic blend long ago (which is what they put in your 8)
Also I referenced the SOHN adapter which if you are not familiar with separates your crank oil from your injected oil.
Its all been covered before
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...ne-oil-249264/
03-08-2014, 10:23 PM
#3230
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 252 Likes
on
110 Posts
As I've said before:
Anyone that wants to argue that filthy dirty synthetic 4-stroke oil labeled as synthetic burns worse than filthy dirty synthetic 4-stroke oil not labeled as synthetic .... is really arguing a moot point.
Install a SOHN to stop injecting dirty oil that was never designed to be burnt, and start injecting clean oil that was designed to be burnt. Then pick your 4-stroke oil for the high stress, high temp, high sheer environment of the e-shaft bearings.
(Yes, all normally available consumer oils are synthetic, regardless of if they have it labeled as such or not. The "synthetic" label just means that there is a more expensive additive package that attempts to maintain the marketed viscosity longer)
Anyone that wants to argue that filthy dirty synthetic 4-stroke oil labeled as synthetic burns worse than filthy dirty synthetic 4-stroke oil not labeled as synthetic .... is really arguing a moot point.
Install a SOHN to stop injecting dirty oil that was never designed to be burnt, and start injecting clean oil that was designed to be burnt. Then pick your 4-stroke oil for the high stress, high temp, high sheer environment of the e-shaft bearings.
(Yes, all normally available consumer oils are synthetic, regardless of if they have it labeled as such or not. The "synthetic" label just means that there is a more expensive additive package that attempts to maintain the marketed viscosity longer)
03-09-2014, 03:47 PM
#3231
Is it normal after a rebuild to have some brown sludge in the coolant system?
Not a lot but I noticed some at the bottom of my reservoir and I just flushed my radiator and noticed some that came out. Figure its from the assembly sealant pieces coming off and staying inside the coolant system.
Not a lot but I noticed some at the bottom of my reservoir and I just flushed my radiator and noticed some that came out. Figure its from the assembly sealant pieces coming off and staying inside the coolant system.
03-09-2014, 05:11 PM
#3232
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 252 Likes
on
110 Posts
Unfortunately, the answer is most probably a "yes". I've wondered if floating sealant clogging the coolant system/thermostat/radiator is a contributing factor for many of the early reman coolant seal failures.
9,000 miles or so after my reman installation, i had a general cooling system failure that ended up having me replacing everything. I didn't flush out the removed radiator to know what was in it, but a garden hose flush for like 20 minutes before replacing everything didn't solve the problem.
9,000 miles or so after my reman installation, i had a general cooling system failure that ended up having me replacing everything. I didn't flush out the removed radiator to know what was in it, but a garden hose flush for like 20 minutes before replacing everything didn't solve the problem.
03-10-2014, 09:26 PM
#3235
Registered
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
(1) On my Series I there are pointy rubber cushions with the backs pressed into holes in the lower body door frames to cushion the closing of the front doors. Get two of those or similar parts from Mazda, a parts supply, etc., drill two holes under the lower license plate, touch up the hole with paint so it won't rust, cut the cushions to size, then just press install. (2) There are some strong adhesive backed and strong holding Velcro hook and loop fastener tapes (Google Velcro) the hook side tape you can attach to the car body and the loop side tape you can attach to the license plate (or vice versa) so you have a pretty permanent attachment, but can still change the license plate. I haven't used the tapes for license plates, but on other weather exposed and heavy applications and the tapes stayed put permanently from what I can tell so far. (3) Go to the parts store, get two bolt and plastic nut license plate attachments (like used to attach many license plates at the top - the plastic nuts have an extension so are made to go in holes in the body) [you'll have to drill - see (1) above]. The nuts press fit in the holes and you just secure the license plate with the bolts. (4) Get some of the putty stick (two color) epoxy from the hardware store, knead it into two nubs and stick them on the body under the license plate. (5) wads of chewing gum
:. Good luck!
:. Good luck!
03-11-2014, 09:19 AM
#3239
Senior Member
This is the best one I have ever found for Torque...
ScanTool.net LLC - OBDLink MX Scan Tool | OBD Interface | App Accelerator - ScanTool.net
Also if you have a tablet pick up Track recorder for torque. It lets you record your driving sessions and puts up your PIDs on the screen in the form of a subtitle encoded on the video. (Translation: you can turn it on and off in VLC when you look at it later)
03-11-2014, 10:42 PM
#3240
Wankler
Oil and License Plate
Mazda has always recommended synthetic oil on every 8 outside of the US!.
For that mater no Mazda dealer in the US uses dino they all switched over to synthetic blend long ago (which is what they put in your 8)
Also I referenced the SOHN adapter which if you are not familiar with separates your crank oil from your injected oil.
Its all been covered before
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...ne-oil-249264/
For that mater no Mazda dealer in the US uses dino they all switched over to synthetic blend long ago (which is what they put in your 8)
Also I referenced the SOHN adapter which if you are not familiar with separates your crank oil from your injected oil.
Its all been covered before
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...ne-oil-249264/
As I've said before:
Anyone that wants to argue that filthy dirty synthetic 4-stroke oil labeled as synthetic burns worse than filthy dirty synthetic 4-stroke oil not labeled as synthetic .... is really arguing a moot point.
Install a SOHN to stop injecting dirty oil that was never designed to be burnt, and start injecting clean oil that was designed to be burnt. Then pick your 4-stroke oil for the high stress, high temp, high sheer environment of the e-shaft bearings.
(Yes, all normally available consumer oils are synthetic, regardless of if they have it labeled as such or not. The "synthetic" label just means that there is a more expensive additive package that attempts to maintain the marketed viscosity longer)
Anyone that wants to argue that filthy dirty synthetic 4-stroke oil labeled as synthetic burns worse than filthy dirty synthetic 4-stroke oil not labeled as synthetic .... is really arguing a moot point.
Install a SOHN to stop injecting dirty oil that was never designed to be burnt, and start injecting clean oil that was designed to be burnt. Then pick your 4-stroke oil for the high stress, high temp, high sheer environment of the e-shaft bearings.
(Yes, all normally available consumer oils are synthetic, regardless of if they have it labeled as such or not. The "synthetic" label just means that there is a more expensive additive package that attempts to maintain the marketed viscosity longer)
Thanks, Rx8 Dave! This is genius. I've got the weatherstrip on it already but solution #1 was something I had in mind. I might revisit this project and post a DIY.
03-12-2014, 07:15 AM
#3241
Registered
Join Date: May 2013
Location: South Africa,Kwa-Zulu natal,Pietermaritzburg
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There is no difference in coil life between tuned and untuned. Every 30,000 miles on any of the OEM coils or OEM-like replacement coils is when you should expect to replace them. Unless you upgrade to a BHR ignition kit.
It's never too late to do the right thing. If you are asking if your engine has already lost compression, you will have to get a compression test to find out.
It's never too late to do the right thing. If you are asking if your engine has already lost compression, you will have to get a compression test to find out.
03-13-2014, 05:53 PM
#3242
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm starting to wonder if it would be worth the hassle to see if I can get my transmission serviced/replaced under warranty (series 2 6 speed)? I'm the second owner of the car, and the previous owner did some damage to the 3rd gear syncro - it's not terrible but it is noticeable particularly when the transmission is cold. With my power train warranty set to expire in the next 3 months I'm debating if I should give it a go or not.
Thoughts and opinions?
Thoughts and opinions?
03-13-2014, 06:26 PM
#3245
Worth a try...but if it is just the syncro and they blame it on poor shifting you might be SOL
Sometimes the dealer will try and get you to go for it with promises that it is covered...and then pull it out later. You will want to get it in writing that it is covered before you get it done
Sometimes the dealer will try and get you to go for it with promises that it is covered...and then pull it out later. You will want to get it in writing that it is covered before you get it done
03-13-2014, 07:13 PM
#3247
Wankler
Catch Can & Intake Accordion Questions
I've attached a catch can to the oil filler tube (marked black on diagram attachment). Wondering - should I connect the can (with Y tube connectors) to the other two lines (marked red and blue on diagram attachment) coming out of the accordion?
I understand from CRO8TIA that the red line may be a "balance tube" so it doesn't seem this should be attached to the can - or should it?
What does a "balance tube" do?
The blue line seems to go to the connector for the oil nozzles that squirt oil into the chambers to lube the apex seals, but noticed some oil on the connector where the blue line goes into the accordion, so thought I would connect this line to the can to keep oil from going into the intake manifold and screwing with the SSV or APV, but don't know if the blue line needs some vacuum from the airflow in the accordion - my can has a breather and is not connected back to the accordion. Thoughts?
I've looked through the threads and found only one unanswered question regarding the accordion connections in a Series I technical thread.
Please let me know your thoughts or a thread where my questions have already been answered. Thanks!
03-13-2014, 07:22 PM
#3248
Black One is the vent line.... OK to hook up to Catch can...but you need to make sure the nipples on the manifold are plugged if they are opened
Blue One is the OMP nozzle line...
Red One is the Jet air...that goes to the jet air nipple under the upper intake manifold
The OMP nozzle line is important..
Jet air is basically a controlled vac leak that helps atomize fuel at low engine speeds...needs to be hooked up to pre-throttle body so that it gets clean air,,,otherwise not that important
Blue One is the OMP nozzle line...
Red One is the Jet air...that goes to the jet air nipple under the upper intake manifold
The OMP nozzle line is important..
Jet air is basically a controlled vac leak that helps atomize fuel at low engine speeds...needs to be hooked up to pre-throttle body so that it gets clean air,,,otherwise not that important
03-13-2014, 09:05 PM
#3249
Wankler
Catch Can & Intake Accordion Questions
Black One is the vent line.... OK to hook up to Catch can...but you need to make sure the nipples on the manifold are plugged if they are opened
Blue One is the OMP nozzle line...
Red One is the Jet air...that goes to the jet air nipple under the upper intake manifold
The OMP nozzle line is important..
Jet air is basically a controlled vac leak that helps atomize fuel at low engine speeds...needs to be hooked up to pre-throttle body so that it gets clean air,,,otherwise not that important
Blue One is the OMP nozzle line...
Red One is the Jet air...that goes to the jet air nipple under the upper intake manifold
The OMP nozzle line is important..
Jet air is basically a controlled vac leak that helps atomize fuel at low engine speeds...needs to be hooked up to pre-throttle body so that it gets clean air,,,otherwise not that important
You're the first to explain the Jet line (or give me an explanation I could understand). And you also confirmed for me that the blue line is an atmospheric line for the OMP. BTY, yes, I capped the oil tube vent elbow on the accordion with a proper sized cap. However, I can't understand why the OMP needs an atmospheric line to it. I wouldn't think it helped the pump pump since I understand the pump is mechanical and run by an electric motor, not pneumatic. Could it be to allow the pump to vent excess oil and vapors?
If so, it would be venting dirty oil and vapors into the accordion, then into the intake manifold, which I want to avoid. Even when I have the wherewithal to install a SOHN adapter, I don't think its a good idea even then to have clean two cycle oil gumming up the SSV and APV. Is all this correct?
If so, can I connect the catch can to the OMP atmospheric line, or does the line need the very minimal vacuum that may come from air passing through the accordion (my catch can is vented to a breather filter and is not connected back to the accordion)?
Thanks, again! Dave
Last edited by Rx8 Dave; 03-13-2014 at 09:08 PM.
03-13-2014, 09:32 PM
#3250
The air for the OMP nipples is to allow the oil to be pulled through the nipples into the housing...basically helps disperse the oil...and prevent a lock on the nozzle and oil line
FYI......anything before the throttle plate sees atmospheric and not vacuum per see. The
FYI......anything before the throttle plate sees atmospheric and not vacuum per see. The
Last edited by dannobre; 03-13-2014 at 09:36 PM.