Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#3651
Registered
Cat is a good possibility. Are you premixing your fuel? If so, are you using a different premix? These can give a different smell.
I know my 8 has a smell after I push the revs. Not rotten eggs, but a definite smell.
The other potential is an old battery. If you get a bad cell, it can produce hydrogen sulfide gas, that is the gas that normally causes the rotten egg smell. Be very careful examining the battery as if it is producing H2S, it is an explosive gas.
I know my 8 has a smell after I push the revs. Not rotten eggs, but a definite smell.
The other potential is an old battery. If you get a bad cell, it can produce hydrogen sulfide gas, that is the gas that normally causes the rotten egg smell. Be very careful examining the battery as if it is producing H2S, it is an explosive gas.
#3652
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Interesting suggestion. The battery does look old, and has been sitting in the car for the past year and a half doing probably nothing. The cat I will check soon when I have some time, if that's not it I'll probably start with replacing the battery. I need to replace it anyway considering how old it is and I need more CCA for our winters.
Also more information that might help the diagnosis. Let the girlfriend drive the car so she can get used to a manual again before she picks up her car this weekend. She was launching wrong, she was putting in way too much throttle on without letting off the clutch pedal enough for the clutch to engadge. At this point, I could still smell the rotten egg smell even though the clutch was disengaged.
My question is, if the clutch is giving off the smell, could it still give it off when it's disengaged? If not then that would lead me to suspect the cat.
Also more information that might help the diagnosis. Let the girlfriend drive the car so she can get used to a manual again before she picks up her car this weekend. She was launching wrong, she was putting in way too much throttle on without letting off the clutch pedal enough for the clutch to engadge. At this point, I could still smell the rotten egg smell even though the clutch was disengaged.
My question is, if the clutch is giving off the smell, could it still give it off when it's disengaged? If not then that would lead me to suspect the cat.
#3653
Since I have an auto 6 speed rx8 (gears seem long) I saw the auto has a 4.10 rear diff ratio. Would installing a manual l.s.d unit (since there not badly priced) with a ratio of (4.40? If I read correctly) increase my lowend launch?
I am aware of the fuel loss. But this year im parking the car to focus more and id like to start with basics.
I am aware of the fuel loss. But this year im parking the car to focus more and id like to start with basics.
#3654
New tires needed
Quote:
Originally Posted by blu3dragon
Some more thinking...
Continental:
PureContact with EcoPlus Technology 235/55R18, 28.2" diameter, 24lbs (3500 rpm => 3227 rpm)
PureContact with EcoPlus Technology 235/50R18 27.3" diameter, 24lbs (3500 rpm => 3333 rpm)
ExtremeContact DWS 225/50ZR18 26.9"diameter, 25lbs (3500 rpm => 3383 rpm)
ExtremeContact DWS 235/50ZR18 27.3" diameter, 26lbs (3500 rpm => 3333 rpm)
ExtremeContact DW 235/50ZR18 27.3" diameter, 24lbs (3500 rpm => 3333 rpm)
Michelin Pilot Super Sport 225/50ZR18 26.9" diameter, 24lbs (3500 rpm => 3383 rpm)
All of these are almost the same price (between 174 and 188) on tire rack... (for some reason supersports are much more expensive in 225/45/18)
Right now I'm thinking DWS 225/50ZR18 is probably a good choice...
Just compare those 225/50's at 26.9" diameter and 24 lbs to 23.9" and 18lbs. in a great riding 215/35-18 DWS. Lowers the CG 1.5" with NO loss of suspension travel and gives you the immediacy of turn in and braking stability of a 35 aspect ratio, with unsprung weight dropping by 6 lbs per tire. My experience is distorted by the lighter unsprung weight from the Brembo's so YMMV, but the DWS in any size is a great improvement. Commuting for me involves a lot of 170-180 kph cruising suddenly going to 60-80 kph and the 215/35 DWS's have been faultless.
END QUOTE
I have a 2010 sport daily driver and I am needing to get new tires. I am looking for a tire with good tread life ( I have 38K on my original tires ) and I do not drive "fast" but I love taking corners at speed.
If I go with the 23.9 inch diameter, 215/35-18 tires will my car be lower to the ground? I do not want to worry about speed bumps and so fourth.
Thank you for any information you can offer.[/QUOTE]
Originally Posted by blu3dragon
Some more thinking...
Continental:
PureContact with EcoPlus Technology 235/55R18, 28.2" diameter, 24lbs (3500 rpm => 3227 rpm)
PureContact with EcoPlus Technology 235/50R18 27.3" diameter, 24lbs (3500 rpm => 3333 rpm)
ExtremeContact DWS 225/50ZR18 26.9"diameter, 25lbs (3500 rpm => 3383 rpm)
ExtremeContact DWS 235/50ZR18 27.3" diameter, 26lbs (3500 rpm => 3333 rpm)
ExtremeContact DW 235/50ZR18 27.3" diameter, 24lbs (3500 rpm => 3333 rpm)
Michelin Pilot Super Sport 225/50ZR18 26.9" diameter, 24lbs (3500 rpm => 3383 rpm)
All of these are almost the same price (between 174 and 188) on tire rack... (for some reason supersports are much more expensive in 225/45/18)
Right now I'm thinking DWS 225/50ZR18 is probably a good choice...
Just compare those 225/50's at 26.9" diameter and 24 lbs to 23.9" and 18lbs. in a great riding 215/35-18 DWS. Lowers the CG 1.5" with NO loss of suspension travel and gives you the immediacy of turn in and braking stability of a 35 aspect ratio, with unsprung weight dropping by 6 lbs per tire. My experience is distorted by the lighter unsprung weight from the Brembo's so YMMV, but the DWS in any size is a great improvement. Commuting for me involves a lot of 170-180 kph cruising suddenly going to 60-80 kph and the 215/35 DWS's have been faultless.
END QUOTE
I have a 2010 sport daily driver and I am needing to get new tires. I am looking for a tire with good tread life ( I have 38K on my original tires ) and I do not drive "fast" but I love taking corners at speed.
If I go with the 23.9 inch diameter, 215/35-18 tires will my car be lower to the ground? I do not want to worry about speed bumps and so fourth.
Thank you for any information you can offer.[/QUOTE]
#3655
Cranking
Ok, so I've only had 2 times where there was a 4 second startup in very warm temperature. I know it's typical of a poor compression, but I also just realized that I haven't changed my oil in quite a while.. Could that be it? Brand new coils, plugs, and wires.
Second, 3 times now, my car has not started in the year I've had it. I only drive her 1-2 times a week. Each time it happened, I have enough juice for the power locks/windows, blinker, etc. for about 15 seconds, then nothing. I have a trickle charger, and all three times, I resurrected it that way, but why is it dying so often? It's a year old battery, and I'm not leaving anything on (lights, trunk open). I have a ScanXL, but that goes into power saver mode. Any thoughts?
Second, 3 times now, my car has not started in the year I've had it. I only drive her 1-2 times a week. Each time it happened, I have enough juice for the power locks/windows, blinker, etc. for about 15 seconds, then nothing. I have a trickle charger, and all three times, I resurrected it that way, but why is it dying so often? It's a year old battery, and I'm not leaving anything on (lights, trunk open). I have a ScanXL, but that goes into power saver mode. Any thoughts?
#3657
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 252 Likes
on
110 Posts
There is only 1 way in which oil will affect startup times: If you ran it out of oil and your engine seized as a result.
Sounds like you probably have some slow battery drain, and that is periodically getting low enough to prevent the car from starting, and sometimes just slow it down a bunch.
Otherwise, back to the basics:
- Clean the ESS
- Reset the ESS profile
- clean grounding points and cable connections
- test compression
- test starter
I'd lay money on a slow battery drain though
Sounds like you probably have some slow battery drain, and that is periodically getting low enough to prevent the car from starting, and sometimes just slow it down a bunch.
Otherwise, back to the basics:
- Clean the ESS
- Reset the ESS profile
- clean grounding points and cable connections
- test compression
- test starter
I'd lay money on a slow battery drain though
#3659
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 252 Likes
on
110 Posts
From the service manual list of possible causes for P2096, and bold is mine, looks like it could, though depends on how it was deleted i guess.
Leakage exhaust gas
Rear HO2S malfunction
IAT sensor malfunction
ECT sensor malfunction
AIR system malfunction
Leakage intake-air
Front HO2S malfunction
MAF sensor malfunction
Fuel line pressure malfunction
Fuel pump unit malfunction
Leakage fuel
Ignition system malfunction
High-tension lead malfunction
Incorrect power supply to ignition coil
Ignition coil malfunction
Insufficient compression
Metering oil pump malfunction
Engine oil condition malfunction
Increased oil pressure
Oil passage malfunction
Engine malfunction
Fuel injector malfunction
PCM malfunction
Rear HO2S malfunction
IAT sensor malfunction
ECT sensor malfunction
AIR system malfunction
Leakage intake-air
Front HO2S malfunction
MAF sensor malfunction
Fuel line pressure malfunction
Fuel pump unit malfunction
Leakage fuel
Ignition system malfunction
High-tension lead malfunction
Incorrect power supply to ignition coil
Ignition coil malfunction
Insufficient compression
Metering oil pump malfunction
Engine oil condition malfunction
Increased oil pressure
Oil passage malfunction
Engine malfunction
Fuel injector malfunction
PCM malfunction
#3663
Ok, idea! So I tested the battery and alternator, and they're good, and I remembered something; the fan.
Sometimes when I shut the car off, the fan comes back on. I assume it's to cool the car down, and I thought it only goes on for a minute or two, but two times I've come back from shopping ~20 minutes later, and it's still running... This also happened during my most recent slow start, as well. Maybe that's what's draining the battery?
I have Torque and an OBDII, so I can see that the temperature is not that bad (I think it goes to about 90 degrees Celsius), so what's up with the fan?
Sometimes when I shut the car off, the fan comes back on. I assume it's to cool the car down, and I thought it only goes on for a minute or two, but two times I've come back from shopping ~20 minutes later, and it's still running... This also happened during my most recent slow start, as well. Maybe that's what's draining the battery?
I have Torque and an OBDII, so I can see that the temperature is not that bad (I think it goes to about 90 degrees Celsius), so what's up with the fan?
#3666
Hi everyone,
I am new to the Mazda Rx8 club and I have a 2007 RX8 here in Dubai.
My question is " Which Engine oil should I use?"
The engine oil cap says 5W x 20. which is very hard to find here . Also since this car is an import from the US, I was thinking should I still use the Oil specified on the cap. Here the temperatures are really hot 90 degrees F to 150 F. Should I still use the same oil or would you guys suggest something else.
Thanks
I am new to the Mazda Rx8 club and I have a 2007 RX8 here in Dubai.
My question is " Which Engine oil should I use?"
The engine oil cap says 5W x 20. which is very hard to find here . Also since this car is an import from the US, I was thinking should I still use the Oil specified on the cap. Here the temperatures are really hot 90 degrees F to 150 F. Should I still use the same oil or would you guys suggest something else.
Thanks
#3667
I recently did the DIY for the stripped MAF screws. Today when I cleaned my MAF I noticed a small dent inside the tube where the MAF goes just below one of the screws, as if I drilled a bit too far but not completely through. Is this something to worry about?
#3669
Registered
Kannibang - definitely use something heavier. 20w40 or 20w50.
One of the new owner stickies has a chart from the Australian owner's manual that shows which oil to use for various temperature ranges. The US recommendation is political, aimed at fuel mileage.
Ken
One of the new owner stickies has a chart from the Australian owner's manual that shows which oil to use for various temperature ranges. The US recommendation is political, aimed at fuel mileage.
Ken
#3670
Dustin is completely correct all around. The only lift kits I know of are usually for ground clearance for trucks that go off road. I don't know of any that are made specifically for an Rx8, though maybe one could be made to fit. Really not to be mean - I'm just curious - why do you want to increase ground clearance on your 8 that Mazda spent significant engineering effort to make one of the best road-hugging sports cars?
#3673
ground clearance increase
thanks for the assist.. will sort something out...
#3675
hi everyone,
i am new to the mazda rx8 club and i have a 2007 rx8 here in dubai.
My question is " which engine oil should i use?"
the engine oil cap says 5w x 20. Which is very hard to find here . Also since this car is an import from the us, i was thinking should i still use the oil specified on the cap. Here the temperatures are really hot 90 degrees f to 150 f. Should i still use the same oil or would you guys suggest something else.
Thanks
i am new to the mazda rx8 club and i have a 2007 rx8 here in dubai.
My question is " which engine oil should i use?"
the engine oil cap says 5w x 20. Which is very hard to find here . Also since this car is an import from the us, i was thinking should i still use the oil specified on the cap. Here the temperatures are really hot 90 degrees f to 150 f. Should i still use the same oil or would you guys suggest something else.
Thanks