Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#3751
I know this is the wrong place to post but since I can't start a thread in the troubleshooting section I post here.<br />
<br />
A couple of months ago I had my car in at the dealer because it was leaking coolant, and when they had a look, they noticed the drain plug was broken which caused coolant to leak.<br />
<br />
Today I again noticed coolant was leaking from about the bottom center of the car. I haven't taken a look but is it plausible it is the same problem? Is there anything common that can cause the plug to break or am I just having bad luck? I'm about to take the car to the dealer tomorrow and have them take a look. If it's the same problem maybe I will ask them if they have the plugs in stock and fix the problem myself.
EDIT: Now a couple of hours later, me and a friend were checking to see how much I was actually losing but the dripping had completely stopped. Is it still worth looking up? I'm going to do a follow-up tomorrow and maybe have a peek under to see if it really is the plug that's broken.
<br />
A couple of months ago I had my car in at the dealer because it was leaking coolant, and when they had a look, they noticed the drain plug was broken which caused coolant to leak.<br />
<br />
Today I again noticed coolant was leaking from about the bottom center of the car. I haven't taken a look but is it plausible it is the same problem? Is there anything common that can cause the plug to break or am I just having bad luck? I'm about to take the car to the dealer tomorrow and have them take a look. If it's the same problem maybe I will ask them if they have the plugs in stock and fix the problem myself.
EDIT: Now a couple of hours later, me and a friend were checking to see how much I was actually losing but the dripping had completely stopped. Is it still worth looking up? I'm going to do a follow-up tomorrow and maybe have a peek under to see if it really is the plug that's broken.
Last edited by Predator123; 07-04-2014 at 03:56 PM.
#3754
Wankler
FL-22 Coolant Chapter 1001
Do you mean FL-22? If so, see my comment #3731, above. You can get FL-22 at your dealership or on eBay or Amazon. I only use FL 22, but have heard that Zerex Asian Vehicle Coolant (NAPA Part # ZRX 675130), Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine Coolant (it's premixed; Part # VC-10-A2), Beck/Arnley FL-22 equivalent at O'reilly's, and PEAK Global Lifetime are equivalent. I can't vouch for any of them. Of course some say any green coolant is OK. FL-22 is a little more expensive than brand X, but to me it's worth all the research as to what other fluid will or might work.
#3755
Wankler
Fuel Pump Pressure / Flow Rate
That answered it. I figured PWM was too complicated and to much for a basic ECU.
I was asking because if you replace the pump with a higher flowing one, I was trying to figure out how the ECU doesn't choke itself or blow something off because the injectors only inject so much.
Do you have to increase the re-circulation valve if you upgrade a pump? (In general)
I was asking because if you replace the pump with a higher flowing one, I was trying to figure out how the ECU doesn't choke itself or blow something off because the injectors only inject so much.
Do you have to increase the re-circulation valve if you upgrade a pump? (In general)
#3756
Wankler
Coolant Leak
Have you checked the plastic translucent overflow container on the left front of the engine compartment? Sometimes it's hard to tell from the outside, but you can just twist off its radiator (container) cap when the car is cold and see if you're losing coolant. If you're losing as much coolant as you say, the overflow container should be low to empty. Also check where the liquid puddles and see if it's clear water or slippery colored coolant. If you live in a high humidity area, your A/C can dump a lot of condensate water.
#3757
Since the other guy asked about FL-22, my 2007 AT came with FL-22. I have no way of getting it. It's not available where I live and I can't get it through eBay or amazon.
What are my options? Would any green coolant do? We have Caltex green coolant here.
What are my options? Would any green coolant do? We have Caltex green coolant here.
#3758
Have you checked the plastic translucent overflow container on the left front of the engine compartment? Sometimes it's hard to tell from the outside, but you can just twist off its radiator (container) cap when the car is cold and see if you're losing coolant. If you're losing as much coolant as you say, the overflow container should be low to empty. Also check where the liquid puddles and see if it's clear water or slippery colored coolant. If you live in a high humidity area, your A/C can dump a lot of condensate water.
#3759
Wankler
FL-22 Coolant Substitutes
Some folks have said any green coolant is OK, but not me. I don't agree because (among other things) many coolants eat the silicone between Rx8 engine parts, this has been scientifically verified, and some manufacturers have either switched gasket products or new car antifreeze because of this. Please read my previous two comments just above in this thread on the matter and click (tap) on the links and read those, too.
I don't know much about Caltex other than it's a Chevron product that is not approved by any Japanese manufacturer except Isuzu. A quick look at its data sheet shows a big variation in acidity from acid to base, and does not mention (or exclude) 2-EHA (2-Ethylhexanoic acid), so I'd like to know if it contains any 2-EHA or similar acid. Also, it's "approved for use by" list includes "General Motors GM 6277M (DEX-COOL® license)" and Dex-Cool is a "no-no" in my book.
Maybe someone more familiar with Catrex will comment, but I personally can't recommend any "green coolant" at any time, or Caltex at at this time.
Last edited by Rx8 Dave; 07-05-2014 at 08:05 PM.
#3760
Registered
Mazda is the only place you can get FL-22. It's their creation - or at least their branding. I've got a jug that I bought at my local dealer. I think it was about $13 for the gallon.
Funny thing is that when I asked for FL-22 coolant at the parts counter the guy looked at me like I was from Mars. After a brief game of charades it clicked and he said "Oh - the green stuff."
The owner's manual (at least my '06 manual) says to use elthyene glycol, not containing alcohol, methanol, borate or silicate. So read the label if you buy a generic. The only drawback they say for using generic coolant, rather than FL-22, is that it won't last the full 10 years.
Ken
Funny thing is that when I asked for FL-22 coolant at the parts counter the guy looked at me like I was from Mars. After a brief game of charades it clicked and he said "Oh - the green stuff."
The owner's manual (at least my '06 manual) says to use elthyene glycol, not containing alcohol, methanol, borate or silicate. So read the label if you buy a generic. The only drawback they say for using generic coolant, rather than FL-22, is that it won't last the full 10 years.
Ken
#3761
Wankler
Finding FL-22 Coolant
Mazda is the only place you can get FL-22. It's their creation - or at least their branding. I've got a jug that I bought at my local dealer. I think it was about $13 for the gallon.
Funny thing is that when I asked for FL-22 coolant at the parts counter the guy looked at me like I was from Mars. After a brief game of charades it clicked and he said "Oh - the green stuff."
The owner's manual (at least my '06 manual) says to use elthyene glycol, not containing alcohol, methanol, borate or silicate. So read the label if you buy a generic. The only drawback they say for using generic coolant, rather than FL-22, is that it won't last the full 10 years.
Ken
Funny thing is that when I asked for FL-22 coolant at the parts counter the guy looked at me like I was from Mars. After a brief game of charades it clicked and he said "Oh - the green stuff."
The owner's manual (at least my '06 manual) says to use elthyene glycol, not containing alcohol, methanol, borate or silicate. So read the label if you buy a generic. The only drawback they say for using generic coolant, rather than FL-22, is that it won't last the full 10 years.
Ken
Amazon.com: Genuine Mazda Fluid (0000-77-508E-20) FL-22 Extended Life Coolant - 1 Gallon: Automotive
for example) and on eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/000077508E20...8c729d&vxp=mtr for example).
And beside not wanting to have alcohol, methanol, borate, and silicate, you don't want to have 2-EHA (2-Ethylhexanoic acid) (which manufacturers sometimes don't list).
Last edited by Rx8 Dave; 07-06-2014 at 07:46 PM.
#3763
Wankler
Coolant
Someone is living in the past. Actually, the eBay price is just a tad less than the dealer price where I live, and the Amazon price with free shipping is probably worthwhile for those who don't have a dealer in the same country or close enough to ship from a dealer cheaper.
Last edited by Rx8 Dave; 07-07-2014 at 02:42 PM.
#3765
I hope they ship to where I live. I will look around. The Mazda dealers over here don't carry FL-22 coolant. They use generic green coolant.
Moving on to more serious issues, what could this noise be?
I checked around my CAT for exhaust leaks and couldn't find any. Sparks plugs and wires are all good.
What could this be? A belt? A pulley?
Moving on to more serious issues, what could this noise be?
I checked around my CAT for exhaust leaks and couldn't find any. Sparks plugs and wires are all good.
What could this be? A belt? A pulley?
#3766
Wankler
Weird Noise
I hope they ship to where I live. I will look around. The Mazda dealers over here don't carry FL-22 coolant. They use generic green coolant.
Moving on to more serious issues, what could this noise be?
I checked around my CAT for exhaust leaks and couldn't find any. Sparks plugs and wires are all good.
RX-8 weird ticking sound - YouTube
What could this be? A belt? A pulley?
Moving on to more serious issues, what could this noise be?
I checked around my CAT for exhaust leaks and couldn't find any. Sparks plugs and wires are all good.
RX-8 weird ticking sound - YouTube
What could this be? A belt? A pulley?
#3767
My driver's side window starting acting up today. First it would go down, but not all the way down, leaving 1-2 inches of glass still above the door frame (no abnormal sounds during operation). After 2-3 tries of up and down, it went all the way down. About an hour later when I had arrived at my destination and rolled the window up, it only went up half way. Then it stopped responding to up or down, instead just making the occasional popping sound. I was able to get it closed by pulling up on the window glass while hitting the button - and when it reached the top it make 3 more disconcerting pop/grinding sounds.
From what I've read it's either the motor (possibly missing some teeth on the gear), the regulator, or if I'm lucky, some crossed up cables. Without a garage until next week, and daily thunderstorms in the forecast for the remainder of the week I'm not about to do any more testing. Does this sound more like a problem with the regulator or the motor? Just wanted to get some opinions before opening the door up this weekend.
From what I've read it's either the motor (possibly missing some teeth on the gear), the regulator, or if I'm lucky, some crossed up cables. Without a garage until next week, and daily thunderstorms in the forecast for the remainder of the week I'm not about to do any more testing. Does this sound more like a problem with the regulator or the motor? Just wanted to get some opinions before opening the door up this weekend.
Last edited by poacherinthezoo; 07-08-2014 at 09:03 PM.
#3768
RX8 Dave, it's not the AC compressor because it sounds like that even with the AC off. Yes it's loudest when I put my camera under the car. Seems like it's coming from right under the engine. Could it really be the air or water pump? Does an exhaust leak make a noise similar to that? I gutted my CAT and it's been happening after that.
The noise goes down as the car gets warm and the tempo changes with revs. When I rev it up to say 3000rpm, the sound is very unnoticeable. Sometimes it'll go down when the car gets warm, sometimes it won't. Sometimes I can't hear it at all. :/ it's so confusing.
The noise goes down as the car gets warm and the tempo changes with revs. When I rev it up to say 3000rpm, the sound is very unnoticeable. Sometimes it'll go down when the car gets warm, sometimes it won't. Sometimes I can't hear it at all. :/ it's so confusing.
Last edited by Aston177; 07-08-2014 at 09:42 PM.
#3769
RX8 Dave, it's not the AC compressor because it sounds like that even with the AC off. Yes it's loudest when I put my camera under the car. Seems like it's coming from right under the engine. Could it really be the air or water pump? Does an exhaust leak make a noise similar to that? I gutted my CAT and it's been happening after that.
The noise goes down as the car gets warm and the tempo changes with revs. When I rev it up to say 3000rpm, the sound is very unnoticeable. Sometimes it'll go down when the car gets warm, sometimes it won't. Sometimes I can't hear it at all. :/ it's so confusing.
The noise goes down as the car gets warm and the tempo changes with revs. When I rev it up to say 3000rpm, the sound is very unnoticeable. Sometimes it'll go down when the car gets warm, sometimes it won't. Sometimes I can't hear it at all. :/ it's so confusing.
#3770
Registered
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What your saying is the exact problem and symptoms i had, it is the motor, I had to pull the window up and it would make a clicking/popping sound when it wouldnt go up anymore or down....I posted a pic of the problem somewhere here, the teeth in the motor are plastic and break off easily, when you pull up on the window and it continues thats where the teeth catch again....take care of pulling off the door panel, but once its off, the motor is a simple bolt screw on and off
My driver's side window starting acting up today. First it would go down, but not all the way down, leaving 1-2 inches of glass still above the door frame (no abnormal sounds during operation). After 2-3 tries of up and down, it went all the way down. About an hour later when I had arrived at my destination and rolled the window up, it only went up half way. Then it stopped responding to up or down, instead just making the occasional popping sound. I was able to get it closed by pulling up on the window glass while hitting the button - and when it reached the top it make 3 more disconcerting pop/grinding sounds.
From what I've read it's either the motor (possibly missing some teeth on the gear), the regulator, or if I'm lucky, some crossed up cables. Without a garage until next week, and daily thunderstorms in the forecast for the remainder of the week I'm not about to do any more testing. Does this sound more like a problem with the regulator or the motor? Just wanted to get some opinions before opening the door up this weekend.
From what I've read it's either the motor (possibly missing some teeth on the gear), the regulator, or if I'm lucky, some crossed up cables. Without a garage until next week, and daily thunderstorms in the forecast for the remainder of the week I'm not about to do any more testing. Does this sound more like a problem with the regulator or the motor? Just wanted to get some opinions before opening the door up this weekend.
#3771
I found some loose nuts where the manifold and CAT meets. Tightened them up. Will fire up the car next morning and check. I couldn't test it today as the engine was warm.
My car is a 2007 JDM AT and it started making a weird popping sound from the front when going over uneven bumps. I took it to a shop and they said it's the front sway bar end links.
Does anyone know the front sway bar end link part numbers for a 2007 AT? Would be greatly appreciated!
My car is a 2007 JDM AT and it started making a weird popping sound from the front when going over uneven bumps. I took it to a shop and they said it's the front sway bar end links.
Does anyone know the front sway bar end link part numbers for a 2007 AT? Would be greatly appreciated!
#3774
Wankler
End Link
I agree with J8635621; try tightening them first. If you need a part number your local Mazda parts department have the parts diagrams & part numbers on its computer and they will look it up for you without a problem (at least where I am). If you don't have a dealer close, just Google "mazda parts" or "mazda dealer" with a major city in the USA like "Atlanta". Good luck - hope tightening works.
#3775
Wankler
Under car noise
Originally Posted by Aston177
RX8 Dave, it's not the AC compressor because it sounds like that even with the AC off. Yes it's loudest when I put my camera under the car. Seems like it's coming from right under the engine. Could it really be the air or water pump? Does an exhaust leak make a noise similar to that? I gutted my CAT and it's been happening after that.
The noise goes down as the car gets warm and the tempo changes with revs. When I rev it up to say 3000rpm, the sound is very unnoticeable. Sometimes it'll go down when the car gets warm, sometimes it won't. Sometimes I can't hear it at all. :/ it's so confusing.
As poacher says. Also, if tightening the joint / replacing the gasket doesn't work, make sure the CAT is completely gutted, as residual loose insides can create a noise.
RX8 Dave, it's not the AC compressor because it sounds like that even with the AC off. Yes it's loudest when I put my camera under the car. Seems like it's coming from right under the engine. Could it really be the air or water pump? Does an exhaust leak make a noise similar to that? I gutted my CAT and it's been happening after that.
The noise goes down as the car gets warm and the tempo changes with revs. When I rev it up to say 3000rpm, the sound is very unnoticeable. Sometimes it'll go down when the car gets warm, sometimes it won't. Sometimes I can't hear it at all. :/ it's so confusing.
As poacher says. Also, if tightening the joint / replacing the gasket doesn't work, make sure the CAT is completely gutted, as residual loose insides can create a noise.