Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#3901
Wankler
High Mileage Rx8 - Repairs
I apologize - it was the clutch and the Throw-Out Bearing the last time for $1700 & a new transmission that they are offering to install for $2700 (also p&l). Yes, it is the dealership. I should / will find a knowledgable garage over-them, but I guess the larger question is how many more miles will I get out of these repairs at this point in the car's lifespan (& yes, I understand that my "mileage may vary...")?
Last edited by Rx8 Dave; 08-20-2014 at 08:41 PM.
#3902
Wankler
Geddy Turbo Tuning with a Cobb AP?
Ok, maybe stupid question here..
For Greddy turbo kit install using Cobb AP for tuning, do I need to have base maps from MM for first start up? I feel like I've read every build thread on here, but not much mention about first start ups prior to tuning.. Any info is much appreciated. Thanks!
For Greddy turbo kit install using Cobb AP for tuning, do I need to have base maps from MM for first start up? I feel like I've read every build thread on here, but not much mention about first start ups prior to tuning.. Any info is much appreciated. Thanks!
F: 949.588.6318, info@greddy.com) and ask them before messing around.
Last edited by Rx8 Dave; 08-20-2014 at 08:42 PM.
#3903
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
I'm at a loss - thought Greddy only made a turbo for an Rx7 (?) - Greddy has an eManage system for its turbos (GReddy). I suppose you can use the Geddy instructions (http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/e-...ion-manual.pdf) and see if the Cobb can be set that way to adjust the ECU. However, I would just contact Geddy (T: 949.588.8300
F: 949.588.6318 info@greddy.com) and ask them before messing around.
F: 949.588.6318 info@greddy.com) and ask them before messing around.
The stock map will work fine for startup.....unless you have changed the injectors. The idle may be poor depending how you mounted the MAF sensor
#3904
Senior Member
Anyway, had I have that option, it would be Cobb every time. I have had it on 3 of my cars and it is an amazing tool.
I would set aside some money for a professional tuner. I am not sure if you can, but on supported cars you can get Accessport Race (free version) that you get for having a accessport. It helps you dial in some preflight checks before you go crazy with a pro tune.
Last edited by badinfluence; 08-21-2014 at 07:44 AM.
#3906
Senior Member
Thanks for the lengthy reply.
My only real question now is, after washing your car, does the plastic panels near the hood release mechanism and the air intake horse get wet? In other words, does water leak into where the air intake duct is? If so, how much?
Thank you so much for your support
My only real question now is, after washing your car, does the plastic panels near the hood release mechanism and the air intake horse get wet? In other words, does water leak into where the air intake duct is? If so, how much?
Thank you so much for your support
I suspect I would have to calm it down and give it a carrot or an Apple if it got wet, they usually don't like that.
Last edited by badinfluence; 08-21-2014 at 07:51 AM.
#3907
Senior Member
#3908
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
aston its probably oily from oil being dripped on it from checking the dipstick or changing the filter. just spray it with some brake cleaner
#3910
Seriously, no b.s., not even steam. Either it instantly evaporates or never makes it to the engine bay. Something has to be sealing it well, I suspect the angle that the radiator is amount is a big one, but nothing gets even to the intake area either. It is well sealed from the factory.
I suspect I would have to calm it down and give it a carrot or an Apple if it got wet, they usually don't like that.
I suspect I would have to calm it down and give it a carrot or an Apple if it got wet, they usually don't like that.
I'm just worried if it'll be a problem. My old bumper wasn't completely sealed off so that no water could get to the intake horse directly under it. At least, that's how it came from the factory.
#3911
Senior Member
Look for more oil on rubber hoses above the area and around the area with a blue oil towel to look for a drip from something. I think it is just how the tech has to grab that filter to get it out and some oil just spilled from it.
Last edited by badinfluence; 08-21-2014 at 08:15 AM.
#3912
Senior Member
I'm talking about the intake horse that runs across, inside the front bumper outside the engine bay. You can't see it because it's covered by the plastic panel that sits on the hood release mechanism. I know that water doesn't get into the engine bay.
I'm just worried if it'll be a problem. My old bumper wasn't completely sealed off so that no water could get to the intake horse directly under it. At least, that's how it came from the factory.
I'm just worried if it'll be a problem. My old bumper wasn't completely sealed off so that no water could get to the intake horse directly under it. At least, that's how it came from the factory.
I know, I popped them up and checked with a flashlight. I was curious if I could steam clean the engine that way since I don't have a UIM.
That trashbag idea will cover the whole bumper if you want it to, just mold it into the bumper instead then cover it with metal or something just in case the car gets hot. It can only help with the bumper flex, and might even help air from escaping in some places.
I would hotmelt glue the bags on the bumper then from the top spray it all the way to the bottom and work your way up. If possible remove the bags after and inspect the mold.
Last edited by badinfluence; 08-21-2014 at 08:17 AM.
#3913
Too old for PC
I apologize - it was the clutch and the Throw-Out Bearing the last time for $1700 & a new transmission that they are offering to install for $2700 (also p&l). Yes, it is the dealership. I should / will find a knowledgable garage over-them, but I guess the larger question is how many more miles will I get out of these repairs at this point in the car's lifespan (& yes, I understand that my "mileage may vary...")?
If your 10 old car really needed all that...and a new transmission, I would suspect abuse by a previous owner. Competently driven, IMO your clutch package should last in excess of 80-100k. A transmission even longer.
Last edited by Signal 2; 08-21-2014 at 08:30 AM.
#3914
Alright I will look for oil. Thanks. But is that hose supposed to get wet when it's raining or while washing the car? Because it's technically outside the engine pay and directly under the front bumper? I have a feeling that it's supposed to get wet :/ but how much?
You removed those panels near the hood release mechanism? The parts that are there on my S1 are -
1. 2 beadings that fit the bumper (same beading line. Just 2 pieces)
2. The plastic panel
3. A metal panel below the plastic panel.
That's all there is. After you remove that metal panel, you get to the intake hose. Are there any additional parts on the R3 down there? Or is it just those 3?
You removed those panels near the hood release mechanism? The parts that are there on my S1 are -
1. 2 beadings that fit the bumper (same beading line. Just 2 pieces)
2. The plastic panel
3. A metal panel below the plastic panel.
That's all there is. After you remove that metal panel, you get to the intake hose. Are there any additional parts on the R3 down there? Or is it just those 3?
Last edited by Aston177; 08-21-2014 at 08:27 AM.
#3917
Senior Member
Alright I will look for oil. Thanks. But is that hose supposed to get wet when it's raining or while washing the car? Because it's technically outside the engine pay and directly under the front bumper? I have a feeling that it's supposed to get wet :/ but how much?
You removed those panels near the hood release mechanism? The parts that are there on my S1 are -
1. 2 beadings that fit the bumper (same beading line. Just 2 pieces)
2. The plastic panel
3. A metal panel below the plastic panel.
That's all there is. After you remove that metal panel, you get to the intake hose. Are there any additional parts on the R3 down there? Or is it just those 3?
You removed those panels near the hood release mechanism? The parts that are there on my S1 are -
1. 2 beadings that fit the bumper (same beading line. Just 2 pieces)
2. The plastic panel
3. A metal panel below the plastic panel.
That's all there is. After you remove that metal panel, you get to the intake hose. Are there any additional parts on the R3 down there? Or is it just those 3?
#3918
#3920
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At a hot idle, combined fuel trims (long and short) need to be within -5% to +5%, and ideally are under -2% to +2%. Higher or lower and you have a problem somewhere.
MAF should be ~5.0-5.5g/s. Lower if you have an unhealthy engine. Lower plus high fuel trims, and it is a vacuum leak.
MAF should be ~5.0-5.5g/s. Lower if you have an unhealthy engine. Lower plus high fuel trims, and it is a vacuum leak.
#3924
Bracket near control arms
just bought a 2004 rx8 and theres a bracket by the control arm that is broken, i move it around and doesn't look like it does anything, car drives perfectly fine so not sure what its for or what its called so i can replace it… does anyone know or could point me in the right direction?
#3925
Senior Member
At a hot idle, combined fuel trims (long and short) need to be within -5% to +5%, and ideally are under -2% to +2%. Higher or lower and you have a problem somewhere.
MAF should be ~5.0-5.5g/s. Lower if you have an unhealthy engine. Lower plus high fuel trims, and it is a vacuum leak.
MAF should be ~5.0-5.5g/s. Lower if you have an unhealthy engine. Lower plus high fuel trims, and it is a vacuum leak.
For instance
MAFr X.X | +/- LTFT | Compression Test?