mikebrow74

Aston, we are working with very small clearances. There are books and courses on Thermal Dynamics and there is too much to be explained in detail here. Heat distribution throughout the engine is not instant. Components expand at different rates as they heat up based on their size and material composition and heat source. This is most extreme when you first start and run the engine. Clearances between chambers, rotor tips, the rotor, the eccentric wheel, and the output crank are changing during warm-up. Parts are engineered for this "controlled" expansion under "Normal" operating conditions. Over revving a cold engine under no-load conditions is not "Normal" operating conditions. And while the design may tolerate it, it is not in the owner’s best interest to do it. Accelerated wear is guaranteed. Temperature readings are taken from the sensor location. Obviously the temperature in the combustion chamber at the point of ignition is going to be very different from the coolant near the sensor. As for load vs no-load, think of it this way. Take a golf ball, put it in an empty paint can and put the lid on it. Now, swing it around in a big circle over your head. This simulates a load condition, with consistent forces being applied. Now take the same can and shake it randomly. This simulates a no-load condition where clearances are forced open and closed in different directions randomly. Understand the difference? That is the simplest way I can put it. If you want to maintain reliability and performance from your engine don't rev it unnecessarily, especially cold. You might want to look at all the questions being asked about engine replacement warranty. I think we are all just sayin'........

Aston177

I don't hold it at redline for 2-3 seconds. It's just a few blips. The car stays at redline for maybe 0.2 seconds. I'm reading my temps using an OBD2 scanner. Temp goes up by around 3F and then drops back down.

Understood bro Though I highly doubt I've shortened the lifespan of my engine, I will refrain from doing it.

Thanks for the help

Aston177

Now that's what I'm talking about. Great explanation. I know that heat kills these engines and I am well aware of that when revving it. I never rev it when cold. And I never rev it unnecessarily. All this time I thought revving it clears carbon. I know now that I have to be in gear for it to work, and so I've stopped revving in neutral.

Thanks for the info

BlueHoney

Heeeyyy dumb question here..more like it's been answered 1000x and don't want rudeness... what are your thoughts on these? If a no go what did you guys go with? Thanks

Tein GSM56-11SS2 Street Basis Coilovers - 04-13 RX-8 ((SE3P)) « Free Shipping

hoosier1104

iTrader: (2)

9k said one of the SARX members has a set and loves them. I am thinking about going that route.

BlueHoney

yeah? I need to get my hands on an RX8 with them installed and test drive it. See How I like it. I know a girl who just drove mine and im not sure which she has in her 8 but admitted my car had better handling and I have absolutely nothing done. So idk.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Cornholio135 has them on his Shinka. He had Stechs and KYB shocks before and is happy with the Tein Basis. You don't get damping adjustments on the Basis, just height adjustment. But damping adjustments on sub $2,000.00 coilovers don't do anything beneficial anyway.

The Tein Basis are just fine for a street cruiser and Tein has great customer service is if you have any problems.

BlueHoney

2 gs for nothing beneficial welp that solves that debate. lol thanks guys

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

I'm pretty happy with my stock GT's handling, although I think my shocks are a tad weak.
Next on my list.

badinfluence

The other worry is what the ECM is doing at idle for an idel fuel map vs a load fuel map. Same thing with the OMP. Without load, some ECU are programmed for specific fuel trims while idling out of gear. With an Automatic take that, and add the fact your missing 1 of 2 oil coolers, and the fact that your engine was designed NOT to go to 9,000 rpm because it was an automatic. It all compounds. Short Answer, you can't blow blue and pink flames like in FNF, don't try.


The engine is an Air pump, air in, rotation out. No load for the rotation, it just free spins and moves very little air. Very little air = very little heat exchange. Very little heat exchange = bad. What your MAF grams/volts, load%, and your AFR, not your cat temps / coolant temps. So much more can be learned by what the STFT and LTFT is doing, and how it is saving itself from you poking it with a stick trying to get all the angry out of the rotary. Compare a full load onramp run to the same at idle and you will see insane amounts of difference.

UHATEIT

Sorry for the repost but I didnt get a reply to my question from the page back and am hoping for some help to my DUMB question:

When I bought my car it did not come with a fob for the alarm, I bought one and during the programming process the alarm sounded and I did not kmnow how to turn it off (turns out all you need to do is put the key in the door hole and turn it and the alarm turns off). Instead I popped the hood and pulled the negative cable on the battery which shut everything off. But when i put the cable back on the alarm kept going off, so while trying to figure out how to turn it off, I decided just to yank the fuse to the horn so the horn would stop but the lights would keep going. I found a thread about using the key in the door and the alarm stopped and I put the horn fuse back in.

The issue I now have is that the horn does not work. It will not blip when I press the keyfob buttons and it will not go off when I push the steering wheel. I have tried swapping fuses with the fog light fuse and it is not the fuse as it works for the fog lights. So I guess I'm trying to figure out what the hell happened to the horn, did the horn itself die by me yanking the fuse on it or did the horn burn out? Im not sure where to go with this and also, my really stupid questionm is where the horn itself is. So that if it is bad and I need to swap it that I can find it and test it while I have the front bumper off at the time for painting anyways.

Any help on the horn issue would be appreciated! So I can test it or replace it while the bumper is off for painting.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

A stock RX-8 will easily outhandle an RX-8 with cheap coilovers. Assuming the driver is competent of course. Go to any large autox event and you will see this first hand.

badinfluence

Check the wiring diagram to be sure, but have someone hit the horn and check with a meter to the fuse if it is getting power. (If it is positive switched). It may have a relay or transistor in the Body Control Module that is stuck. I haven't heard of anyone burning out a horn like that before, it may just be stuck in a 3rd state. ( 1, 0, ~) If the ground was removed while it was firing the transistor is could be stuck or burned out.

Take a look at the fuse, checking for a connection to + (voltage first), then check the relay. Relays are easy to goof up like that. (Removing the power while the coil is firing), Without a intercept diode, you make a boost converter that can nuke a transistor.

also this may seem obvious, but set the alarm off again, just in case the alarm module is stuck and disarm it.

Signal 2

---> Uh...yeah. Whatever. As stated earlier, I recommend you not post outside this thread.

Signal 2

True. Not sure about the "easily" part...IIRC it was close. But I am such a witness.

El Conquistador

You know, I've read people on various forums and websites suggesting that revving an engine without a load (in neutral or park) is a bad idea and worse than doing it in gear. They've never given a logical reason for it and frankly, I think it's a load of bullshit. Yeah, if you floor it for several seconds while it continues to bounce off the rev limiter, that's probably very hard on it, but I can't see a quick rev or two causing even as much wear as running it up to redline in any gear. I wouldn't worry too much about occasionally doing a quick rev in neutral, as long as the engine is warm (yours was bordering on too warm) and nothing is wrong with it. I do it occasionally on my sportbike. If someone has a logical reason or evidence to the contrary, I'd love to hear about it.

That said, the goal is to burn off carbon in your engine by briefly raising the temperature inside the combustion chambers and I don't think it'll be as effective revving it in neutral compared to doing it in first or second gear. With no resistance other than internal engine inertia and friction, I just don't see it building up enough heat to really be effective. But as far as I know, no one has done any reliable experiments to compare different methods of operating a rotary engine, so it's largely just somewhat educated guesses.

My suggestion to you: if you want to rev it up to hear the exhaust or whatever, don't be afraid to do it occasionally (under the right conditions, engine at operating temperature, etc). If you want to burn off some carbon, drop the hammer while in gear. But I'm not going to pretend to know all of this without a doubt, so just take it as advice from someone who half-*** knows about engines and physics.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Heat without airflow doesn't mean jack.

Neutral reving has the heat without the airflow. It's still a max of like 15g/s of air. Vs doing it gear under load is 200g/s. Big difference.

BlueHoney

How do I fix my AC lmfao... no but it's a serious question. I get nothing but heat all day long. I'm sweaty everywhere I go its frustrating.. help me Pearl

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

if the compressor is working it probably just needs to be charged. its easy to do

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

This might be what you are experiencing. Ignore the title, it applies regardless of if it goes full cold or full hot, same problem.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...ontrol-158200/

Excerpt:

BlueHoney

Lmfao **** I guess I'll wait until our May date. Hope not to die by then unless its really really easy

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

It's really easy to check, mine is either full hot or full cold.(0/16)
But mine is usually on 0, the cold side, and if I fiddle with it I can get it to stay on 16 for heat.
Also be sure you have it on the 'recirculation' mode, and not the 'outside air' mode, which can draw in engine heated air.

Aston177

I don’t think the oil coolers do anything when idle. Having 2 oil coolers will only keep me cool for longer, it won’t have an affect on “engine damage”. Who said I’m revving to 9000rpm? I said 7800rpm, the stock redline of a 6 speed auto.

What’s FNF? Or did you mean NFS :P


Thanks for your input El Conquisitador. Like you, I have read on various forums that revving an engine in neutral is bad. And I too have not seen a proper explanation for what’s going on. However, I read all those on PISTON ENGINE forums. NOT rotary engine forums. Some said it causes bearing failure. Some said it’s easier to over rev in neutral, and that causes the valves to touch the pistons. And even though all that is just theoretical, that’s fine, because, well, those are piston engines. BUT, those theories don’t apply to our rotaries. THAT’S WHY I asked. Because our engines are designed for revs. I wanted to know what harm it does. Like you, I thought revving it under load would do more harm than a quick blip to redline in neutral.

Yes, i always wait until the car is properly warmed up (at least coolant temp 180F). Most people on here misunderstood me when I said I rev it “for 2-3 seconds”. I didn’t mean to say I HOLD it at redline for 2-3 seconds. I meant I give it a few blips WITHIN 2-3 seconds. The car doesn’t stay at redline for more than 0.2 seconds.

Personally I don’t see whats wrong with revving it in neutral, apart from heat. So long as I keep the coolant temp down, I’m good. it’s not like the a rev to redline puts out a crazy amount of heat. The car would heat up way more when under load.

I do not know if revving in neutral clears carbon. I thought it did, but since most people here tend to think it doesn’t, I’m gonna go with that.

Again, thank you so much for your text

BlueHoney

All I get is engine heat. lmfao my road trips suck!! short trips are easy but long trips she's hot and im nearly dead lol

BlueHoney

I read this one before.. even tried some "reset trick" posted online. still in hell