Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#4677
Senior Member
Ok I read the symptoms and causes thread, but I want to double check this one.
I have a 2009 S2 R3, and I am getting a sudden power loss, then a fast recovery. It doesn't appear to be in a specific part of the range, just between 3,000 and 7,000, and it feels like fuel cut, but recovers almost instantly like a misfire or knock retard. I checked the ECU/PCM and it isn't registering any on the drive cycle when it happens or in the memory. It also seems to happen randomly, and sometimes not at all on random days.
Also when it "hiccups," I am noticing that the ECU/PCM either kicks Torque out, or resets the CANbus. (or chokes it). So far I have added a 2nd 4 gauge wire from engine to ground in another location, cleaned all the ECM terminal contact points, battery terminals, and bottom of contacts. (this was done a few months ago)
The power loss just started happening randomly. So far it looks like the battery has a good charge, I am using at least 93 octane gas, and the car has 41k miles on it. I am going to look into plugs and coils no matter what, but it seems like the ECU reset thing may have been going on for awhile, but is just now getting to the point it can be noticed.
Any ideas?
Unfortunately the ECU reset kills my logging ability, so I only have before and after.....
I have a 2009 S2 R3, and I am getting a sudden power loss, then a fast recovery. It doesn't appear to be in a specific part of the range, just between 3,000 and 7,000, and it feels like fuel cut, but recovers almost instantly like a misfire or knock retard. I checked the ECU/PCM and it isn't registering any on the drive cycle when it happens or in the memory. It also seems to happen randomly, and sometimes not at all on random days.
Also when it "hiccups," I am noticing that the ECU/PCM either kicks Torque out, or resets the CANbus. (or chokes it). So far I have added a 2nd 4 gauge wire from engine to ground in another location, cleaned all the ECM terminal contact points, battery terminals, and bottom of contacts. (this was done a few months ago)
The power loss just started happening randomly. So far it looks like the battery has a good charge, I am using at least 93 octane gas, and the car has 41k miles on it. I am going to look into plugs and coils no matter what, but it seems like the ECU reset thing may have been going on for awhile, but is just now getting to the point it can be noticed.
Any ideas?
Unfortunately the ECU reset kills my logging ability, so I only have before and after.....
#4679
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
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Ok I read the symptoms and causes thread, but I want to double check this one.
I have a 2009 S2 R3, and I am getting a sudden power loss, then a fast recovery. It doesn't appear to be in a specific part of the range, just between 3,000 and 7,000, and it feels like fuel cut, but recovers almost instantly like a misfire or knock retard. I checked the ECU/PCM and it isn't registering any on the drive cycle when it happens or in the memory. It also seems to happen randomly, and sometimes not at all on random days.
Also when it "hiccups," I am noticing that the ECU/PCM either kicks Torque out, or resets the CANbus. (or chokes it). So far I have added a 2nd 4 gauge wire from engine to ground in another location, cleaned all the ECM terminal contact points, battery terminals, and bottom of contacts. (this was done a few months ago)
The power loss just started happening randomly. So far it looks like the battery has a good charge, I am using at least 93 octane gas, and the car has 41k miles on it. I am going to look into plugs and coils no matter what, but it seems like the ECU reset thing may have been going on for awhile, but is just now getting to the point it can be noticed.
Any ideas?
Unfortunately the ECU reset kills my logging ability, so I only have before and after.....
I have a 2009 S2 R3, and I am getting a sudden power loss, then a fast recovery. It doesn't appear to be in a specific part of the range, just between 3,000 and 7,000, and it feels like fuel cut, but recovers almost instantly like a misfire or knock retard. I checked the ECU/PCM and it isn't registering any on the drive cycle when it happens or in the memory. It also seems to happen randomly, and sometimes not at all on random days.
Also when it "hiccups," I am noticing that the ECU/PCM either kicks Torque out, or resets the CANbus. (or chokes it). So far I have added a 2nd 4 gauge wire from engine to ground in another location, cleaned all the ECM terminal contact points, battery terminals, and bottom of contacts. (this was done a few months ago)
The power loss just started happening randomly. So far it looks like the battery has a good charge, I am using at least 93 octane gas, and the car has 41k miles on it. I am going to look into plugs and coils no matter what, but it seems like the ECU reset thing may have been going on for awhile, but is just now getting to the point it can be noticed.
Any ideas?
Unfortunately the ECU reset kills my logging ability, so I only have before and after.....
Disconnect negative, then positive.
Clean the posts completely.
Clean the clamps completely, inside and out
When you reconnect, ensure that the clamp as a solid seat, wiggle it around as you slowly tighten to find where it wants to sit. MAKE SURE that you are actually tightening the clamp to the post. The stock clamps can actually bottom out the tightening bolt against itself, without actually gripping the post, and it will still look like it's on there.
See if the problem persists. If it does, get your alternator tested.
(And at 40k, if you haven't changed coils, plugs, wires, you should... normal maintenance in the 20-30k range)
#4680
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
+1^
I bought post caps for my stretched out truck battery terminals, easier & cheaper.
I bought post caps for my stretched out truck battery terminals, easier & cheaper.
#4681
Okay I have a stupid question.... When I'm at a light with traffic behind me it is such a pain in the *** to start in first gear and have to shift so quickly. How bad is it that from time to time I start in 2nd to make sure I'm ahead of the traffic and not hold **** up. If you haven't guessed it my car is not automatic lol. Apparently I'm wearing down my clutch quicker than I would if I started in first and shifted to second...but serious 1st is barely moving...pointless *** gear.
#4682
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Are you taking off like you are staging on a race tree or what? During normal operation first should be used but taking off in second is fine, but it might be tough on even a slight incline. And if you think 1st is useless on a NA RX-8 you should try it on a turbocharged one,
#4683
Are you taking off like you are staging on a race tree or what? During normal operation first should be used but taking off in second is fine, but it might be tough on even a slight incline. And if you think 1st is useless on a NA RX-8 you should try it on a turbocharged one,
lmfao I secretly think i'm speed racer but no It's just annoying I think for the drivers behind me even though the transition is quick. On hills I do not start in 2. Its only once in a while if traffic is building up I don't always start in 1st
#4685
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
In the US, the Bilstiens were only on the 40thAE RX-8 and the R3. Somehow the rumor got started that the Shinkas came with them but that is untrue, I have done suspension installs on a few Shinkas over the years and they all had the Tokicos.
Overseas they had the PZ edition, R3 and the AE version that had Bilsteins as well.
#4686
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
You know you can rev it all the way to 9k, so why not?
Part of the fun of driving a stick is using all the gears.
If I do skip a gear, it's usually 4th or 5th after red lining to merge into traffic.
#4687
Scrappy
iTrader: (1)
My car suddenly won't start. It was fine, then I shut it off, then I went to turn it back on 5 minutes later and not much happens.
All of the accessories turn on but when I try to start it the security light flashes rapidly. I've been looking but I can't find anything on what it is other than something Mazda needs to fix. I've tried disconnecting the battery (even installed new terminals, lol) but it still does the same thing.
What do I do??
All of the accessories turn on but when I try to start it the security light flashes rapidly. I've been looking but I can't find anything on what it is other than something Mazda needs to fix. I've tried disconnecting the battery (even installed new terminals, lol) but it still does the same thing.
What do I do??
Last edited by Legot; 04-30-2015 at 06:32 PM.
#4688
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
My car suddenly won't start. It was fine, then I shut it off, then I went to turn it back on 5 minutes later and not much happens.
All of the accessories turn on but when I try to start it the security light flashes rapidly. I've been looking but I can't find anything on what it is other than something Mazda needs to fix. I've tried disconnecting the battery (even installed new terminals, lol) but it still does the same thing.
What do I do??
All of the accessories turn on but when I try to start it the security light flashes rapidly. I've been looking but I can't find anything on what it is other than something Mazda needs to fix. I've tried disconnecting the battery (even installed new terminals, lol) but it still does the same thing.
What do I do??
#4689
I do rev it high on first but hear **** frm my bf talking about im on first too long. so I tell him to shut up since he doesn't even know how to drive stick anyway lol. Alright so no more with starting in 2nd..got it
#4690
#4691
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
My car suddenly won't start. It was fine, then I shut it off, then I went to turn it back on 5 minutes later and not much happens.
All of the accessories turn on but when I try to start it the security light flashes rapidly. I've been looking but I can't find anything on what it is other than something Mazda needs to fix. I've tried disconnecting the battery (even installed new terminals, lol) but it still does the same thing.
What do I do??
All of the accessories turn on but when I try to start it the security light flashes rapidly. I've been looking but I can't find anything on what it is other than something Mazda needs to fix. I've tried disconnecting the battery (even installed new terminals, lol) but it still does the same thing.
What do I do??
#4693
Dark Moderator
iTrader: (18)
Best way to teach yourself BTW IMO, is go into a parking lot and attempt pulling out.....
Had to give time for the joke lol.
But anyway, find the friction zone on your clutch. It's the point where you can feel the clutch grabbing. Once you find it, ease into the throttle as your letting out on the clutch SLOWLY.
Repeat till you got it right.
Travis
Had to give time for the joke lol.
But anyway, find the friction zone on your clutch. It's the point where you can feel the clutch grabbing. Once you find it, ease into the throttle as your letting out on the clutch SLOWLY.
Repeat till you got it right.
Travis
#4694
Water Foul
Starting in 2nd works, but you have to burn some clutch to do it in a low torque car like ours. I always start in 1st and ride the tach to at least 5K. Short shifting doesn't work so well in our car, and starting in 2nd just makes that worse IMHO.
Last edited by Steve Dallas; 04-30-2015 at 07:51 PM. Reason: tack to tach, cuz that's an extremely embarrassing typo.
#4695
#4696
Best way to teach yourself BTW IMO, is go into a parking lot and attempt pulling out.....
Had to give time for the joke lol.
But anyway, find the friction zone on your clutch. It's the point where you can feel the clutch grabbing. Once you find it, ease into the throttle as your letting out on the clutch SLOWLY.
Repeat till you got it right.
Travis
Had to give time for the joke lol.
But anyway, find the friction zone on your clutch. It's the point where you can feel the clutch grabbing. Once you find it, ease into the throttle as your letting out on the clutch SLOWLY.
Repeat till you got it right.
Travis
thanks. been there done that. Lol I spent a very frustrating evening stalling because I couldn't find the spot at all. drove in running sneakers then just stocks to get in tune with her haha. I also embarrassed myself on 2 busy intersections that night lmfao so Im good about that now..kinda haha but yeah I guess reving high in first isn't too bad. Ive been doing it but being criticized made me think I was doing it wrong
#4697
#4698
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
thanks. been there done that. Lol I spent a very frustrating evening stalling because I couldn't find the spot at all. drove in running sneakers then just stocks to get in tune with her haha. I also embarrassed myself on 2 busy intersections that night lmfao so Im good about that now..kinda haha but yeah I guess reving high in first isn't too bad. Ive been doing it but being criticized made me think I was doing it wrong
There's a reason the tachometer is so big.
#4699
#4700
Dark Moderator
iTrader: (18)
Dont yell at the guy Blue.
Print out the new and potential owners thread and make him read it.
Yes, i know you can MAKE him read anything with the right motivation...Just saying..
Then he will understand slightly at least.
Every clutch you will ever own will have a "friction zone", you need to find it. If you couldn't it's because you were not paying attention the way you should. Focus blue, Focus.
Travis
Print out the new and potential owners thread and make him read it.
Yes, i know you can MAKE him read anything with the right motivation...Just saying..
Then he will understand slightly at least.
Every clutch you will ever own will have a "friction zone", you need to find it. If you couldn't it's because you were not paying attention the way you should. Focus blue, Focus.
Travis