It's a Mazda part. You won't find it anywhere else unless you make one 😊

 

I got a p0507 error after installing bhr coils. Also randomly spikes during idle about 1500 rpm. Normal? how do I fix this? Check all hoses and electrical. Everything connected correctly.

 

P0507 Idle air control system RPM higher than expected

Shouldn't be related to the ignition at all, but given the area you were working in i'd say you left something disconnected that you missed.

 

In response to RIWWP and continuing my P0507 error problem;
I have checked every hose, wire, and harness. I cleaned the MAF sensor and put it back. Everything is secured firmly. I am still getting the error and it is getting more frequent. And the pattern of the idle where it will occasionally jump 1500 rpm is now happening once every 30 seconds as a pattern. I have taken the entire assembly a part again, checked under the BHR coils in case I pinched a wire or something. Nothing. Everything seems like it should be.

I am uploading two images. If you can take a look and possibly point out exactly what hoses I should check directly related to this problem, I may just take them off and put them all back on. I can't figure this issue out after multiple checks, now
http://s24.postimg.org/jizsg8hsl/Engine_1.jpg
http://s15.postimg.org/hrn6ib4ez/Engine_2.jpg

Just noticed additional info that may help. The car drops about 200 rpm and then revs up the 1500 rpm as a result of, I assume, the engine preventing itself from dying. There is a click just before the 200 rpm drop. I've heard this click before but it never caused this idle problem.

Help XD

 

I have a quick and probably relatively easy question to answer. I searched the forum over a bit and couldn't find a definitive answer and I asked on my thread I started, but I figured I'd ask a different group over on this thread. So I am possibly purchasing an '04 RX8 with about 47k miles on it. It requires a new ECU "supposedly" and I'll find out later for sure and I've been quoted at about $900 for the part itself. Now, my question to you is, is there any other way to go about this than buy a brand new OEM ECU for the RX8 or can I spend a bit less and get a used one or a bit more and get one that will allow for more modifications in the future. I'm relatively new to modifying a car or tuning up the engine, but that's basically my question. Am I best off going with the ECU the dealership wants to install for $1100-$1200 total or should I get my own, and have them install it for me? And if the latter, what ECU exactly would you recommend?

 

Hello: I have a 2004 rx8 and i have discovered a leak on the drivers side of the undercarrage.I wanted to ask if any one has a 360 degree look at the radiator?. I was hoping to see it from all views.

I am going to remove the under cover/plastic cover and have a gander tomorrow.From what i can see it appears to be either the bottom cap gasket is leaking or the drain pet **** is leaking.

The other question is: Is it easyer to remove the radiator from the bottom or the top.The top has to be more probleematic or am i wrong.

 

I did it out the bottom, can't say which is easier.

 

Dumb question. My brake pedal gets stiff after leaving the car overnight. Has to be kept for a few hours for it to happen.
Here's the weird part. I noticed last night that if I keep on pumping the brakes while the engine is running, the RPM will slowly go up, around 100rpm. Normal?

 

Could be something to do with the brakes needing vacuum for the power assist ... never noticed it myself but could be normal.

 

Thanks Brettus. Was kinda worried.

 

Alright guys I'm trying to help another friend here. 2004 RX-8 with 35,000 miles.

Long story short, car threw a cell while driving. Pulled over and shut the car off. Started it back up and the car was shaking and the idle bounces up and down. On cold start, lots of white smoke and rpm fluctuation. This is an internal coolant seal leak I'm assuming? After it warms up, car idles a little better but BLACK smoke comes from the exhaust. Yes, black. Exhaust smells horribly rich. Engine sounds a little louder/rougher. The whole car just vibrates like crazy.

Plugged OBD2 scanner. Got 2 codes.

P0172
P0335

Found out that P0335 means there's a fault in the Eccentric shaft sensor and P0172 means rotor 1 is running too rich.

What the heck is with the black smoke?

Would cleaning the ESS sensor fix this?

 

Rather than rectify the relevant tail light moisture thread i just wanna ask something silly here...

Im going to dry and reseal my tails today, and im just curious about the actual silicone procedure itself, namely; should i reinstall the lights while the silicone is still wet/unbonded or wait for it to dry and then reinstall?? Either way it should theoretically provide a better seal, but im worried if i install it while wet, and then it bonds to the frame, the next time i go to remove the lights it might rip apart the gasket??

Just wondering other peoples take on this.

 

Can someone with a Series II, and hopefully a OBDLINKMX go to Torque and tell me what they CANBUS setting is?

I think mine is ISO15765-4 CAN 11 BIT 250K, but my ECU/PCM is jumping around on Automatic protocol and seems to be freaking a bit. Something is wrong with the CANBUS or was wrong, and I am trying to figure out what it is supposed to be.

If I try 29bit, I get an instant CEL, TCMs mind gets blown, and Ozzie bites the head off a bat under the engine bay.

It finally freaked out enough for the dealer to find it, but I want to test it properly.

 

Whatever the outcome, change that plug, wire, and coil in rotor 1! (and 2 for that matter) I saw a 13B SEIZE with carbon because it sat to long with 50k miles on it and carbon nuked the plug. They ran seafoam through it and through all was well till it seized.

I think I can assume with a 2004 and 35k miles you should change you plugs asap.

Definitely start with those plugs before they make your problem worse. you could be on the include of a mountain of CELS from incomplete combustion. Also you will more than likely have to clean that sensor if the plug has failed and gunked the engine up.

 

Thanks bro. New plugs, coils and wires are already on the way. My friend took it to Mazda and they had told hm to replace the crankshaft. We're gonna try cleaning the ESS first. Just to be sure.

Any idea why black smoke comes out of the exhaust?

 

Hey guys Im new to this forum and couldnt find anywhere else to ask.
I've wanted an 8 for years and I think now is the time to get one. Im looking at a 40th Anniversary Edition from a dealership. Its pretty damn clean, the front driverside fender was replaced but there are no reported accidents and no frame damage/repair. Its sitting a 38k miles. Looking around I see KBB and Edmunds put it right at $14k. I understand that they arent very good at estimating 8s but it sound about right for me. The online price at the dealership was $15,850 and after pushing hard until I had to walk out the dealer would only drop to 15.5 Just wondering what your opinions are I feel as though the cars absolute maximum value is 15 and thats kind of pushing it. Please let me know how you guys feel.


ALMOST FORGOT: I have a friend helping me look at the car that is an ex salesman/bought cars for carmax. He used some hook ups and found the dealership bought the car at auction for $12,400 and we dont know if they replaced the fender or not, but they certainly didnt do anything else.

 

The ENTIRE crankshaft? That is a big WTF. I would definitely recommend a second opinion.

Black smoke can mean a few things, but the main is incomplete or improper combustion. When you run to rich you are putting half burned gasoline containing CO1 out the exhaust. Lots of things can cause incomplete combustion, The burn needs a perfectly timed and aggressive spark. It need the right amount of fuel (To much fuel, not enough oxygen=Rich) Without the air ratio being in the right zone, you get black smoke or a lean condition. Without enough air, the fire goes out and smothers causing black smoke. Anything else in the mix could also cause black smoke, IE carbon build up from running rich.

 

Thanks: My only issue will be getting it far enough off the ground to really work.My drive up ramps are not quite high enough?. I will figure it out.

 

That seems like a bit much. I paid $15k for my Series II. Prices may be different in your area though. If it was me, I would keep looking.

 

I found a 3.5 ton large floor jack at a pawn shop today, it goes up 17 inches high.I will try to remember to take pics of it as i just got a I phone given to me a few days ago so maybe i can show some pics of this deal.

 

Just one explanation for the fender was that it was damaged while on private property...i.e. a parking lot. Which would not generate an accident report in most states. Sounds like the dealership figured out that you've been wanting one for years too. Not sure what the market is in your area, but it seems like the excitement of the car would be out-lived by regrets that you paid too much if you buy at that price. I'd make sure the salesman had my number, and leave.

 

It sounds high to me, but I'll tell you this;
If you really want it and can afford it, and it passes a rotary specific compression test, why not?
I found my fully loaded '04 GT at a dealer 3 years ago with 18.5k miles in pristine condition. They wanted $17,995 for it, I got it for $14k.
People then said it was too much, but I fell in love with it and glad I bought it.
I believe something is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it.
If you feel like you really want it, and pass on it, will you regret it?
Btw, the original sticker price on mine was +$35,500.

 

I agree with BigCajun if it passes a rotary compression test then make your best deal and go for it. On one hand used RX8s are tough for a dealer to sell, so they should be willing to move a little on the price. On the other hand there were only 1000 40 AE RX8 exactly like this made for the US market, so it does carry some exclusiveness, even among the RX8 family. (Europe and Asia had different 40th AE made with different colors etc.)

I am prejudice of course because I own a 40Th AE RX8 myself. Mine had the full aero package and even with big Mazda incentives I paid $30,000+ when bought new back in 2008. The relatively low mileage and hopefully good compression test make yours worth the price. Don't buy it at any price without that rotary engine compression test before purchase. Don't let your heart overrule your good sense,ok. Best to you.



If it's compression test is good and you buy it, these are the maintenance items needing to be addressed at it's 38,000 mileage:

30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)

Here is the RX8 club's compression test numbers chart. You want six compression numbers, one from each rotor face (three) per each rotor (x2); and also the starter cranking rpm, and your altitude in relation to sea level. Then you can check the chart to see what condition your engine is in.

 

On the RX8 Series II am I right in saying that the top positive wire from the fusebox is from the Alternator? My question is what size/gauge wire is it? (Same question with bottom)

The Second passes through the main fuse and goes to the battery if I am correct?

Pic is from another thread. I am asking about the STOCK hardness size, and placement so I know which wires to upgrade. I don't want to **** off the Series II alternator since it has that PWM style operation.

and it is 1/4 thread right? Sorry to dump, my eyes hurt from searching.

 

I am having a weird noise and low power issue.

Started when I got new BHR coils installed. Car started throwing P0507 error. I probably didn't tighten a hose or pinched something. Didn't matter, going to install an intake soon. Car ran fine otherwise and had noticeable power gains and was slightly more torquie at all rpm.

Got intake. Installed it. Went ahead and changed oil and dif fluid since it was due. Turn car on, everything sounds fine. Went for a drive, car felt like it was down on power. Exactly the same amount of power as before the BHR coils install. Stopped to check and make sure everything is connected correctly. Notice 2 things:

1. car is REALLY hot. Much hotter than normal with stock intake. Is this normal behavior after AEM intake install?

2. I now have a distinct clicking sound coming from just behind the alternator. Pushed and pulled on everything and I can't seem to isolate the sound. Nothing quiets it down even temporarily if I push and pull on stuff. I am not aware of dropping anything in this area and all my tools and excess parts are accounted for.

I wasn't in this vicinity doing anything other than filling the engine back up with oil. Checked the oil to make sure there was still oil in the car. Everything is fine. Can I get some help trouble shooting this clicking sound and power loss?