dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Check to make sure you didn't drop an intake box gromett into the fans....

El Conquistador

I have moisture in my taillights, but I was reading in an old post that the taillight lenses in the Series II cars are ultrasonically welded or some jazz and you can't take them apart. If that's the case, what would I have to do to keep the water out? Buy new ones?

Team Tora Productions

Are you talking about the fans below the intake tray? I don't see anything on the fans and they are running fine.


Took the car out for another more thorough test drive. I am definitely experiencing power loss. Can't even break the end loose on corners I know I could before. I'd say power is down worse then before I changed my coils. I will take a look inside the tubing and see if maybe I missed some stuffing or something. I thought I checked already but hopefully it is something that simple.


Anyone else have any clues?

badinfluence

Does it sounds like a bendix or a relay clicking? For example when your battery gets low your relay clicks off and keeps you from starting. Sound anything like that? If there is a circuit or relay clicking on and off, that could make weird **** happen.

Also try hooking up to a good code reader and look at the Canbus traffic. It should look clean, and not have traffic outside it's bracket. When my clockspring when, it was pissing off the Canbus intermediately and making it hard for the modules to communicate. It was bad for months before I could track it down because it wasn't always acting up, only when I turned the wheel. Take a peak at that too.

Team Tora Productions

It does actually sound like that. But it is coming from behind my alternator. I checked my electrical box and can't see any issues when the car is running.


I'm sorry, but I don't know what Canbus traffic is or how to read it. First time I've heard of that. Would that affect the power loss?


I've checked the intake assembly again, everything is fitted properly and nothing is blocking airflow.

badinfluence

No worries, Canbus isn't something you need to know in most places, hell even Mazda tells their techs just a little bit. So Canbus is a universal type of networking standard that uses 2 and 4 wires. (Positive, High, Low, Negative) It is how the PCM communicates with all the computers, including our dashboard. It goes from the PCM to the Dash, and from the Dash to everything that is low speed. (those are 2 separate networks.

A Canbus packets lookes like this normally



Mine just had **** in it like

[00 02 E uifdsh bg;jdznfghio; fjg ui;ajghiofjnsuoh;kfgsioho['fjgshuip;fjgs 00 E4]
[Voltage 14.1]
klsfdjgbuo; h sbg'kfjgio;'ifjsgjkh;nfspo'ghkfs'gkh;

That is not normal, and it was from the steering wheel having a problem with the "slip ring" which allows you to turn wires without twisting them. Something busted and it was about 350 bones and not covered by 90% of warranties.

To me it sounds like one of those bypass valves, but the question is, what is telling it to open/close/ do whatever it is doing. Unfortunately I am more electrically inclined so if it is one of those valves like the SSV or Airpump, I am going to have to bow out because that is something I don't know, just how to troubleshoot them electrically.

I would take a Multimeter and wire it up to your 12v lighter plug in your center console (the one in the cubbie, not the exposed one), and what the voltage as the power drops and see if it is related. If the voltage doesn't change suddenly at the same time as the engine power loss, I would say it is a problem with some kind of valve

mazdafan1892

Cleaning the Engine Bay Area

I saw videos online where people clean that area with the covers on and using a garden hose??? Is it right to do that with the sensors, alternators and all those wires? I dont know if there are any cracks in the wires or such.

Also are the covers suppose to be on everything IF cleaning it with a hose and cleaners are the way one is suppose to clean it? If the covers are suppose to remain on how or what does one use to clean the parts under all the black covers?

Lastly is there a video on this? Thanks so much. I have more questions later.

Team Tora Productions

Can you recommend me one? I just did a google search and found ones from $100 to over $1000. Which one would I need for this situation? And does it record it internally so I would just have to plug it into my computer and upload the data? Or do I need a laptop with it?

Team Tora Productions

Going to add some notes to my power loss and ticking noise coming from installing an AEM intake.


I noticed the ticking noise is possibly coming from the SSV. Did some research and some videos showed the same noise and it was their SSV.


Does this issue arise while changing out the intake and bypassing one of those hoses like I did (per AEM's instruction)? Or is this just a coincidental happening?

badinfluence

The OBDLinkMX has the ability to view Canbus, is Bluetooth, and comes with all the software you need for under 100 bucks. The Canbus software is for the PC, but everything else is through Torque on Android or it's native app on Android. ....And it is a bitchin OBD2 adapter. I would keep this simple because I am starting to believe that it may not be something electrical.

reni04

I saw maybe the same video,wow! stupid doesn't due justice to that.I clean my engine bay a lot but never squirt a garden hose in the engine bay ohhhhh!, i use mild soap and a rag and i am very aware of electronics.

I bet that dude had some issues if not then but down the road.lol,.

El Conquistador

Interesting. I wonder if there's a program like that I can get that works with my Mongoose Pro. The only program that came with it appears to only do flashing and reading codes.

badinfluence

OBDwiz is the software.
OBDLink MX Bluetooth Setup | OBDLink? ? OBD Solutions

Even better than that is the Canbus Triple. Check out my thread here...
https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-in...triple-258597/

Team Tora Productions

I appreciate the help. Because of the amount of responses and all the research I did, I am going to reiterate some things and post results.

To start, I switched over bad coils to BHR coils. Gained ~25 hp as a result of the bad coils being made new and new coils being BHR racing coils. Car felt amazing. Everything good. However, car started throwing P0507 code. I must have pinched a vacuum line. Wasn't a huge issue, wanted to replace intake due to how much of a pita the stock intake was to work around so all problems should have been resolved with a new intake I was intending to put in anyway. Other than that, no drivability issues and car was much faster. No noise in engine, smooth idle excluding the CEL, and I was happy with results.

Replaced stock intake with AEM intake. Immediately started getting a noise behind my alternator. Research concludes I am having to clean the SSV or replace it. Intake confirmed installed correctly and no hoses/wires causing issues. I have a bad power loss, worse then when I had my bad coils in the car (maybe 30-40 hp loss after intake install). Car idles fine, no CEL thrown even under hard driving, but power loss is obvious. I DO NOT have the issue where people are reporting no power over 4k rpm. It simply is less powerful all the way through the power band.

Now my questions are this:

Does the SSV become faulty after installing an aftermarket intake? Does it need adjusting? Are there SSV upgrades I need to look at since my car's year is 2006? The AEM intake removes the intake vacuum line completely. I don't see why this would cause problems, but I'm not a mechanic.

If I fix the SSV, will I get power back at all rpm? Right now, power from 0-9500 is just down. I ask this because it supposedly only kicks in after 4k rpm. Which won't explain why I am experiencing a loss of power from the get go.

Throttle response. With the AEM intake, my throttle response suffered. Is this normal?

In the event I am overall unsatisfied with the AEM intake, will I have better results with the Racing Beat intake? I'm not going for noise or power. I simply want a more open engine bay (And I don't want to put a performance modification on that REDUCES performance). The RB intake doesn't seam to give me an open engine bay but at this point, if I am going to choose from an RB intake or stock intake, I would choose the RB since I've read the intake works perfectly in all weather conditions.

And lastly, while I'm going through and taking the engine apart to clean the SSV, is there anything I should be looking at replacing, cleaning, or upgrading?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

The AEM is a good intake and wont cause these issues you are having unless the install was done wrong . A faulty SSV will cause loss of power above 4000 but not below , plus it should throw a code if it isn't working . A good check is to see if SSV does its check cycle after shutting the engine off . Just watch the actuator arm after turning off the engine , you should seee it open and close .

Team Tora Productions

Understood. I called AEM and sent them pictures inside and out of the tube along with the install. It has been confirmed correctly installed with all wires and vacuums attached correctly. But the power loss definitely occurred immediately after install. I am going to try and clean the SSV this weekend and see if that helps.

mazdafan1892

Anyone have any info cleaning the engine bay, the fuel tank area or the that gap space when opening the trunk lid(corners)? The engine bay is really my concern cause some people have said they use the hose. I am considering using paper bags and a all purpose cleaner. I wish there was a video of someone doing this instructional on the rx-8.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Cover the Generator with a plastic bag.
Go nuts.

If the car doesn't start you know you have a weak component somewhere.
Ahhh don't get the air filter wet either if you have an aftermarket intake

Kingjames101

I have a 07 rx 8 and yesterday I left it running and came out to antifreeze all over the ground put some water in it and drove it 2 miles hone it didn't over heat but today I went out to put cool ant in it and before the care was even turned on it started leaking the second I started to pour the coolant out by the top of the radiator now the radiator was replaced 15000 miles ago so I think it is a bad hose up top on TN e radiator anyone else have a suggestion could use the help plz

Whyisthisevennecessary

I have just one question, it may sound dumb but I really want to know.
I'm about to do my driving tests and all that stuff and I've been looking for a car for quite some time.
Today I saw the RX-8 outside and fell in love with it.
I was looking at the prices and they vary from 2.000 to 5.000 € (talking about 2004-2006 , and I'm looking at the cars located in Germany). Those at 2.000 have a problem with starting the engine, they just won't start. How do you know if they are good or not? Are there any ways of checking outside the service book and the words of the cars owner?
I don't want to use it for agressive driving, I'm not the kind of person who puts his foot on the gas that easily, is it good to use it for city driving? What about driving in the countryside? I want a car that will give me time to play with it in the garage (in maintaining not tuning), comfortable and joyful, reliable and safe?
Is the Mazda RX-8 it?
Sorry for the dumb question, I've never done this before, and I'd like to come to my parents prepared about this car.
Thanks for the answers

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

First off, you should read the new owner stickies, just about anything you want to know is there.
Any RX8 that won't start could simply be flooded, or have a bad engine, it's hard to say.
Any one you are interested in should absolutely have a rotary specific compression test, 2 sets of 3 numbers for each rotor face.
They SHOULD be driven aggressively occasionally to prevent carbon build up in the housings.
"Drive it like you stole it!" is a motto many of us believe in.
They are high maintenance and need vigilant attention to oil level and frequent oil changes.
Premium gas is necessary, and MPG (KPG?) is not good.
They are very safe, drive and handle well for RWD cars with 50/50 weight distribution.
They are very comfortable and quiet.
Just be sure you educate yourself before you buy one.
Good luck!

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

It's either the radiator overflow hose on the top of the rad..or the coolant bottle or hose leaking. You should be able to see where it is coming from

mazdafan1892

Yeah taking no chances. Going to wrap everything and also I have to stop at the dealership. I am going to double check with them cause all of our Rx-8s are different. Some are newer than others, there could be cracks or tears in the wires, making sure all the covers are there.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

LOL I love your forum name.
Bravo bravo

dricampbell

Ok my dumb question is really dumb.


I got my rex 2nd hand. Love it to bits. One really simple thing I haven't worked out yet though mostly as I've been using a bluetooth transmitter since discovering the ?problem?

I thought my RX8 had a CD player on the dashboard. Nothing I can see in the boot. The dashboard has a CD player button, a a hole into which to insert a CD player and it does say something like '6 CD changer' next to it......

I can't put any disks in - it doesn't accept them, nearly damaged a disk trying. I when I press the eject button nothing comes out.

I'm not sure if either:

1. I don't actually have a CD player despite having all the appropriate buttons etc
2. I have one and it's broken/jammed
3. ??could there be a CD changer in the boot I cannot find? if so why is there a hole on the dash for a CD and also I've tried looking fora compartment to hide one in the boot but cannot find one??

Thanks again for answering this silly question. Hoping it's possible to get an answer without a screwdriver!!

FYI 2006 RX8. 44kmiles, got it at 27k miles in october!