Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
07-16-2015, 01:44 PM
#4976
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I have done some work to the car and reset everything about 2 weeks ago. Been driving ever since. Need to smog my car now and the car won't pass the cata and o2 tests. Apparently they haven't "finished resetting" as the guy states. After 2 weeks of driving, this should be good to go. Do I need to do something specific?
07-16-2015, 02:22 PM
#4977
I have done some work to the car and reset everything about 2 weeks ago. Been driving ever since. Need to smog my car now and the car won't pass the cata and o2 tests. Apparently they haven't "finished resetting" as the guy states. After 2 weeks of driving, this should be good to go. Do I need to do something specific?
07-21-2015, 04:52 AM
#4978
Done some searching, but obviously not using the right words, so:
What parameters are normal to disable when you have Cobb or MazdaEdit? For example P0420 can be disabled to not give CEL when CAT is removed, if I understand correctly. Could anyone give a list with parameters that does not affect safety/performance of engine?
What parameters are normal to disable when you have Cobb or MazdaEdit? For example P0420 can be disabled to not give CEL when CAT is removed, if I understand correctly. Could anyone give a list with parameters that does not affect safety/performance of engine?
07-21-2015, 05:59 AM
#4979
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Done some searching, but obviously not using the right words, so:
What parameters are normal to disable when you have Cobb or MazdaEdit? For example P0420 can be disabled to not give CEL when CAT is removed, if I understand correctly. Could anyone give a list with parameters that does not affect safety/performance of engine?
What parameters are normal to disable when you have Cobb or MazdaEdit? For example P0420 can be disabled to not give CEL when CAT is removed, if I understand correctly. Could anyone give a list with parameters that does not affect safety/performance of engine?
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-eng...ection-253541/
Just posting this from another past thread. From what I read in various searches the readiness tests should still all set so sorry for the misinformation:
Quote:
List of CELs masked by the MazdaManiac calibrations for the AccessPORT:
Quote:
P0030 Front HO2S heater control circuit problem
P0031 Front HO2S heater control circuit low
P0032 Front HO2S heater control circuit high
P0037 Rear HO2S heater control circuit low
P0038 Rear HO2S heater control circuit high
P0133 Front HO2S circuit slow response
P0138 Rear HO2S circuit high voltage
P0139 Rear HO2S circuit slow response
P0171 System too lean
P0172 System too rich
P0300 Random misfire detected
P0301 Front rotor misfire detected
P0302 Rear rotor misfire detected
P0410 AIR system problem
P0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold
P0441 EVAP system incorrect purge flow
P0442 EVAP system leak detected (small leak)
P0443 Purge solenoid valve circuit problem
P0446 EVAP system vent control circuit problem
P0455 EVAP system leak detected (large leak)
P0456 EVAP system leak detected (very small leak)
P2096 Target A/F feedback system too lean
P2097 Target A/F feedback system too rich
P2195 Front HO2S signal stuck lean
P2196 Front HO2S signal stuck rich
P2257 AIR pump relay control circuit low
P2258 AIR pump relay control circuit high
P2259 AIR solenoid valve control circuit low
P2260 AIR solenoid valve control circuit high
P2270 Rear HO2S signal stuck lean
P2271 Rear HO2S signal stuck rich
P2401 EVAP system leak detection pump control circuit low
P2402 EVAP system leak detection pump control circuit high
P2404 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit range/performance problem
P2405 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit low
P2406 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit high
P2407 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit intermittent/erratic problem
__________________
EDIT: color-coded for classification groupings.
Quote:
List of CELs masked by the MazdaManiac calibrations for the AccessPORT:
Quote:
P0030 Front HO2S heater control circuit problem
P0031 Front HO2S heater control circuit low
P0032 Front HO2S heater control circuit high
P0037 Rear HO2S heater control circuit low
P0038 Rear HO2S heater control circuit high
P0133 Front HO2S circuit slow response
P0138 Rear HO2S circuit high voltage
P0139 Rear HO2S circuit slow response
P0171 System too lean
P0172 System too rich
P0300 Random misfire detected
P0301 Front rotor misfire detected
P0302 Rear rotor misfire detected
P0410 AIR system problem
P0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold
P0441 EVAP system incorrect purge flow
P0442 EVAP system leak detected (small leak)
P0443 Purge solenoid valve circuit problem
P0446 EVAP system vent control circuit problem
P0455 EVAP system leak detected (large leak)
P0456 EVAP system leak detected (very small leak)
P2096 Target A/F feedback system too lean
P2097 Target A/F feedback system too rich
P2195 Front HO2S signal stuck lean
P2196 Front HO2S signal stuck rich
P2257 AIR pump relay control circuit low
P2258 AIR pump relay control circuit high
P2259 AIR solenoid valve control circuit low
P2260 AIR solenoid valve control circuit high
P2270 Rear HO2S signal stuck lean
P2271 Rear HO2S signal stuck rich
P2401 EVAP system leak detection pump control circuit low
P2402 EVAP system leak detection pump control circuit high
P2404 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit range/performance problem
P2405 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit low
P2406 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit high
P2407 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit intermittent/erratic problem
__________________
EDIT: color-coded for classification groupings.
07-21-2015, 01:18 PM
#4980
Done some searching, but obviously not using the right words, so:
What parameters are normal to disable when you have Cobb or MazdaEdit? For example P0420 can be disabled to not give CEL when CAT is removed, if I understand correctly. Could anyone give a list with parameters that does not affect safety/performance of engine?
What parameters are normal to disable when you have Cobb or MazdaEdit? For example P0420 can be disabled to not give CEL when CAT is removed, if I understand correctly. Could anyone give a list with parameters that does not affect safety/performance of engine?
07-21-2015, 01:48 PM
#4981
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I don't really agree with MM's list on a few of the points.
For example, I'd keep these:
P0300 Random misfire detected
P0301 Front rotor misfire detected
P0302 Rear rotor misfire detected
P2195 Front HO2S signal stuck lean
P2196 Front HO2S signal stuck rich
They still provide very useful information, even on a tuned car.
For example, I'd keep these:
P0300 Random misfire detected
P0301 Front rotor misfire detected
P0302 Rear rotor misfire detected
P2195 Front HO2S signal stuck lean
P2196 Front HO2S signal stuck rich
They still provide very useful information, even on a tuned car.
07-22-2015, 03:34 AM
#4982
Many thanks Sonicsdaman and RIWWP! Much appreciated.
07-22-2015, 08:41 AM
#4984
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Motor mounts will never cause the idle speed to change, just vibration. A vibration that HAS an idle speed change is going to be air/fuel related. Clean the MAF and ESS, reset the ESS profile, check for vacuum leaks, and test the front O2 sensor. Those are the starting points for an idle speed issue.
07-27-2015, 02:58 PM
#4985
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Should I buy?
I really want to buy a 06 reg rx8 I've seen, and was minutes from doin so.Until we rang ppl for advice, and no fewer than 5 mechanics told me to basically avoid at all costs. Are these cars really that bad? I don't care about the running costs, but the reliability issues are putting me off. They're not as dodgy as ppl are making out are they? (please say no.. :-) )
07-27-2015, 03:16 PM
#4986
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I really want to buy a 06 reg rx8 I've seen, and was minutes from doin so.Until we rang ppl for advice, and no fewer than 5 mechanics told me to basically avoid at all costs. Are these cars really that bad? I don't care about the running costs, but the reliability issues are putting me off. They're not as dodgy as ppl are making out are they? (please say no.. :-) )
The short answer is that there is a huge amount if misinformation, myths, and bad advice in relation to this car. That thread attempts to set you straight about the realities of owning this car.
The short answer of ownership is that if you think it's like any other car and treat it like any other car, you will almost certainly have a very painful experience, financially and emotionally. However, if you learn about the car first and decide to purchase one anyway, you will almost certainly find that it is one of the best cars in your life.
Read the thread in it's entirety before making the purchase. Specifically, there is stuff in there about PRE-purchase. Failure to get a compression test alone will have a good chance of landing quite a lot of financial pain right off the bat.
If you decide not to buy, then at least it isn't going to cost you anything but the time it took to read the thread. If you do decide to buy... you have your eyes open as to the realities.
I'd say "good luck", but it's not a matter of luck, it's a matter of education, and whether or not you choose to pursue it.
That being said, I owned my 2005 from 8,600 miles, daily drove it for 5.5 years, sold it for life reasons, and 2 years later bought it back from the guy i had sold it too. I missed it too much. The rewards of ownership are significant if this is the car for you. If not, it's like trying to marry a gold digging bitch and hoping it turns out well.
Last edited by RIWWP; 07-27-2015 at 03:18 PM.
07-27-2015, 03:16 PM
#4987
You gonna eat that?
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I really want to buy a 06 reg rx8 I've seen, and was minutes from doin so.Until we rang ppl for advice, and no fewer than 5 mechanics told me to basically avoid at all costs. Are these cars really that bad? I don't care about the running costs, but the reliability issues are putting me off. They're not as dodgy as ppl are making out are they? (please say no.. :-) )
I've had my '04 GT for 3 years, don't regret it.
07-27-2015, 03:17 PM
#4988
You gonna eat that?
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Ninja Pearl.
I didn't think you were around.
I didn't think you were around.
07-27-2015, 04:16 PM
#4989
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I already have read through that, well the majority of it. And its because i have done so that im still considering buying one, even though my friends and family think id be mad to ignore all the (bad) things ive been told about the car.
I understand it needs a bit more seeing to than the usual jump in and go day-to-day car, But if i owned the Rx8 id be happy to do that as its such a good car i wouldnt mind taking care of it.
The one im looking at has a full service history with mazda, would that include the compression test?
Thanks for taking the time to respond btw
I understand it needs a bit more seeing to than the usual jump in and go day-to-day car, But if i owned the Rx8 id be happy to do that as its such a good car i wouldnt mind taking care of it.
The one im looking at has a full service history with mazda, would that include the compression test?
Thanks for taking the time to respond btw
07-27-2015, 04:27 PM
#4990
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One of the big red flags to us is "dealer maintained" or "full dealer service history". Largely because the dealer service typically only means oil changes, and that is missing so many very very critical things. Oil change frequency affects literally only 1 failure method: clogging of the OMP lines. I've never seen a "dealer maintained" RX-8 that was healthy in other critical areas, like ignition, sensors, cat, cooling system parts replacement, brake flushing, etc...
Plus, dealers won't do a compression test unless you either pay them for one or they are trying to solve a different problem and are told to do it by the manual.
Plus, dealers won't do a compression test unless you either pay them for one or they are trying to solve a different problem and are told to do it by the manual.
07-27-2015, 05:24 PM
#4991
I've done quite a bit of digging before asking this question but all of the info I got was from very old topics from 2004 when the car was just released...
I seem to have a power loss problem in 3rd gear at 8000, maybe 7500 rpm. The tach keeps going up, the engine keeps revving and sounds as normal, no lights or anything, but the car just seems to not be putting down any acceleration. It's almost like there is a fuel cutoff or it's coasting.
This does not happen in 1st or 2nd gear. I usually don't drive quite fast enough to beep 4th gear so I have not tested that. But it's noticeable in 3rd.
Any thoughts on what this could be? I have a 2009 and its at roughly 33k miles. I honestly can't say if this has been just happening recently or not, 3rd tops off somewhere around 88-90 mph. I probably wasn't comfortable being in the powerband at those speeds during my first months of ownership so I might've never had the chance to notice.
FYI, replaced plugs/coils just 3k miles ago.
I seem to have a power loss problem in 3rd gear at 8000, maybe 7500 rpm. The tach keeps going up, the engine keeps revving and sounds as normal, no lights or anything, but the car just seems to not be putting down any acceleration. It's almost like there is a fuel cutoff or it's coasting.
This does not happen in 1st or 2nd gear. I usually don't drive quite fast enough to beep 4th gear so I have not tested that. But it's noticeable in 3rd.
Any thoughts on what this could be? I have a 2009 and its at roughly 33k miles. I honestly can't say if this has been just happening recently or not, 3rd tops off somewhere around 88-90 mph. I probably wasn't comfortable being in the powerband at those speeds during my first months of ownership so I might've never had the chance to notice.
FYI, replaced plugs/coils just 3k miles ago.
07-27-2015, 08:47 PM
#4992
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Possible cat starting to clog up. Smooth loss of power high at the top end of the rev range is one of the signs that you have something restricting airflow. Over time, the rev range it affects will continue dropping. If it never seems to change, it's just your tune. If it keeps dropping though, it's a clog, probably a cat clog.
07-27-2015, 09:04 PM
#4993
Possible cat starting to clog up. Smooth loss of power high at the top end of the rev range is one of the signs that you have something restricting airflow. Over time, the rev range it affects will continue dropping. If it never seems to change, it's just your tune. If it keeps dropping though, it's a clog, probably a cat clog.
07-29-2015, 01:37 AM
#4994
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One of the big red flags to us is "dealer maintained" or "full dealer service history". Largely because the dealer service typically only means oil changes, and that is missing so many very very critical things. Oil change frequency affects literally only 1 failure method: clogging of the OMP lines. I've never seen a "dealer maintained" RX-8 that was healthy in other critical areas, like ignition, sensors, cat, cooling system parts replacement, brake flushing, etc...
Plus, dealers won't do a compression test unless you either pay them for one or they are trying to solve a different problem and are told to do it by the manual.
Plus, dealers won't do a compression test unless you either pay them for one or they are trying to solve a different problem and are told to do it by the manual.
07-29-2015, 07:48 AM
#4995
40th anniversary Edition
Calm88 ,here are the maintenance issues that need to be checked or addressed depending on the car's mileage.
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
07-29-2015, 09:07 AM
#4996
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Read the new owner's thread about how to get a compression test before purchase. It's all detailed there, so I can see you haven't finished reading it yet.
07-29-2015, 01:51 PM
#4997
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I've been searching for a couple of hours now and cant seem to find the procedure for data logging as well as on that topic some tuning procedures and how to's.. I was looking at some discussions a few weeks back but I cant seem to find them again. Any help on data logging for the Cobb Access Port and other tuning information would be awesome. Thanks!
07-29-2015, 03:19 PM
#4998
I left my rx-8 running with the A/C on for like 30-40 min today waiting for someone in a parking lot. When I tried to shut it off 5 min after, the battery and engine light came on. Then tried to start and it couldnt. I turn off the car and set the alarm. The alarm was weak sounding. Came back like 30 min later and it turned over and the battery and the ignition light disappeared . Still going to take it ti my mechanic to put on the reader. Any ideas???
Just had the car fixed by the dealership too.
Just had the car fixed by the dealership too.
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 07-29-2015 at 03:58 PM.
07-29-2015, 05:22 PM
#4999
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thanks for the replies. I dont mind attending to the cars needs t certain points in its lifetime. Every car needs looking after anyway, even if this one requires more attention than most.
Yeh, i skimmed that part :P but ive read it now. So r u saying should ask the (private) seller if i can get a compression test done before i buy it, and if he refuses ask him to take it? and if he still refuses i know somethings wrong. What would that entail anyway?- phoning my nearest mazda dealer and booking one up? How much money are we talking just to get the compression test?
Yeh, i skimmed that part :P but ive read it now. So r u saying should ask the (private) seller if i can get a compression test done before i buy it, and if he refuses ask him to take it? and if he still refuses i know somethings wrong. What would that entail anyway?- phoning my nearest mazda dealer and booking one up? How much money are we talking just to get the compression test?
07-29-2015, 05:28 PM
#5000
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Calm,
A compression test varies from place to place.
I've seen them as low as $105 and as high as about $200.
Someone in your area may have a comp tester, that's usually cheaper.
Travis
A compression test varies from place to place.
I've seen them as low as $105 and as high as about $200.
Someone in your area may have a comp tester, that's usually cheaper.
Travis