Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
08-17-2015, 09:19 AM
#5101
40th anniversary Edition
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...t-here-222584/
Starting the Engine
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
Starting the Engine
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
08-17-2015, 05:14 PM
#5102
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why do the automatic rx8s not have an engine oil cooler? What is the ideal oil temp at normal operating temp for the low comp. vs. high comp. motors? and is there a way to fit an engine oil cooler into the auto?
08-17-2015, 05:23 PM
#5103
Automatic rx8s produced in 2004/2005 have one engine oil cooler. It is located in the front bumper, drivers side. Cars produced in 2006 and after have two oil coolers, one on each side.
It is possible to add a second cooler to an 04/05 automatic. I have done it, as have other owners. All you need is the cooler off a manual car, and the oil lines. The Mazda lines are complex and can rust out in some climates. Aftermarket lines are simpler (fewer connections) and made of stainless steel.
Also, it is generally considered to be low power vs high power. Compression ratio is the same throughout. The high power has 2 more air intakes, and a higher red line. The intakes are necessary in the high rpm range, as the engine cannot 'breathe' with only 4 ports when pushed to the limit.
It is possible to add a second cooler to an 04/05 automatic. I have done it, as have other owners. All you need is the cooler off a manual car, and the oil lines. The Mazda lines are complex and can rust out in some climates. Aftermarket lines are simpler (fewer connections) and made of stainless steel.
Also, it is generally considered to be low power vs high power. Compression ratio is the same throughout. The high power has 2 more air intakes, and a higher red line. The intakes are necessary in the high rpm range, as the engine cannot 'breathe' with only 4 ports when pushed to the limit.
08-17-2015, 05:50 PM
#5104
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: California
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Maintenance before 30,000
Mazdafan1892,
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
__________________
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
__________________
08-17-2015, 06:40 PM
#5105
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
iTrader: (21)
Just so you know, my engine has been officially "dead" (75 PSI front, 68 PSI rear) for years now, and I still flog the heck out of it all the time with no trouble. So long as it will start (I did upgrade the starter) and idle without smoking, you are good to go.
08-19-2015, 07:34 PM
#5106
Question in response to Newbie Guide
So I was reviewing the "Newbie guide" for power increases and it's so informative it should be in a college journal... I was reading about the midpipe for the car and was looking at Racing Beat's dual resonated pipe and specifically BHR..., I had an old 99 cougar with check engine light eliminators wired in to the O2 sensor which I guess made the O2 sensors constantly run in an open loop and never caused a code.... they were about 20 bucks from nautilus performance which did a lot of work for Duratec engines... would this be viable for this unit???
My wife loves this vehicle already as my last car was an 03 mazda 6s that I was blowing a hundred or two here and there for upgrades and now it seems I can't / shouldn't really do that here!!!
Thanks again!
My wife loves this vehicle already as my last car was an 03 mazda 6s that I was blowing a hundred or two here and there for upgrades and now it seems I can't / shouldn't really do that here!!!
Thanks again!
Last edited by DragonLord3688; 08-19-2015 at 07:42 PM.
08-19-2015, 07:48 PM
#5107
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
iTrader: (21)
O2 foolers don't work with the RX-8. It has countermeasures to prevent their use. There are several threads where people have tried all the usual tricks too. The only thing that works (that I know of) is turning off the code via Cobb AP or MazdaEdit (I think).
08-19-2015, 07:53 PM
#5108
Good to know, so I was checking out MAzdaManiac's ACcessPort, and his service for tuning remotely. Is this still a viable option for a stock RX8???
Also my exhaust sounds a little deeper than I would expect for stock, I can't seem to find any exhaust leaks and the catback looks completely stock... Is this a normal "feature" of a rotary?? I could take a video of the sound... It's nice and I wouldn't want to make it too much louder.... That midpipe to delete the cat seems like my best option...
Also no complaints from 8 owners regarding drilled/slotted rotors and carbon ceramic pads right? I was looking at a whole set for 200
Also my exhaust sounds a little deeper than I would expect for stock, I can't seem to find any exhaust leaks and the catback looks completely stock... Is this a normal "feature" of a rotary?? I could take a video of the sound... It's nice and I wouldn't want to make it too much louder.... That midpipe to delete the cat seems like my best option...
Also no complaints from 8 owners regarding drilled/slotted rotors and carbon ceramic pads right? I was looking at a whole set for 200
08-19-2015, 09:03 PM
#5109
Water Foul
You cannot get a good set of brakes for $200. It simply is not possible.
Ceramic brakes have some good properties, but good stopping power is not one of them. They work well for some cars, but the 8 is not one of them, IMHO, because the OEM brakes are so good. You can buy a new set of OEM pads for about $150 if you shop around, and have your rotors turned for another $100. Other branded semi-metallic pads are cheaper still. That will yield far superior results over a budget set of brakes.
Ceramic brakes have some good properties, but good stopping power is not one of them. They work well for some cars, but the 8 is not one of them, IMHO, because the OEM brakes are so good. You can buy a new set of OEM pads for about $150 if you shop around, and have your rotors turned for another $100. Other branded semi-metallic pads are cheaper still. That will yield far superior results over a budget set of brakes.
08-19-2015, 09:40 PM
#5110
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
iTrader: (21)
I don't know if MM's service is still viable but I think it is. It's very good if you are patient and can follow instructions precisely.
Not sure what you mean by "deep" sounding exhaust, but whatever sound there is was carefully engineered by Mazda. It doesn't sound quite like the rotaries of old. Replacing the catalytic will increase the sound a bit even with a resonated midpipe. Troll around here and youtube and you'll likely find a video of somebody with stock muffler and a midpipe.
Mr. Dallas is mostly right about brakes. You can't get good brakes for $200, but you can for $250. Centric "premium" rotors are about $160 total, Bendix CT-3 top-of-the-line ceramic pads are $40 per end ($80 total). I run those rotors on the street and road race track. I use the Bendix pads on the street including some "canyon running" and autocrosses and I'm very happy with them. I'm pretty particular about my brakes.
Drilled rotors are for looks only, even Porsche has admitted as much. They degrade brake performance on street cars. Slotted rotors are only a little better. Save your money.
Not sure what you mean by "deep" sounding exhaust, but whatever sound there is was carefully engineered by Mazda. It doesn't sound quite like the rotaries of old. Replacing the catalytic will increase the sound a bit even with a resonated midpipe. Troll around here and youtube and you'll likely find a video of somebody with stock muffler and a midpipe.
Mr. Dallas is mostly right about brakes. You can't get good brakes for $200, but you can for $250. Centric "premium" rotors are about $160 total, Bendix CT-3 top-of-the-line ceramic pads are $40 per end ($80 total). I run those rotors on the street and road race track. I use the Bendix pads on the street including some "canyon running" and autocrosses and I'm very happy with them. I'm pretty particular about my brakes.
Drilled rotors are for looks only, even Porsche has admitted as much. They degrade brake performance on street cars. Slotted rotors are only a little better. Save your money.
08-20-2015, 05:23 AM
#5111
I don't know if MM's service is still viable but I think it is. It's very good if you are patient and can follow instructions precisely.
Not sure what you mean by "deep" sounding exhaust, but whatever sound there is was carefully engineered by Mazda. It doesn't sound quite like the rotaries of old. Replacing the catalytic will increase the sound a bit even with a resonated midpipe. Troll around here and youtube and you'll likely find a video of somebody with stock muffler and a midpipe.
Mr. Dallas is mostly right about brakes. You can't get good brakes for $200, but you can for $250. Centric "premium" rotors are about $160 total, Bendix CT-3 top-of-the-line ceramic pads are $40 per end ($80 total). I run those rotors on the street and road race track. I use the Bendix pads on the street including some "canyon running" and autocrosses and I'm very happy with them. I'm pretty particular about my brakes.
Drilled rotors are for looks only, even Porsche has admitted as much. They degrade brake performance on street cars. Slotted rotors are only a little better. Save your money.
Not sure what you mean by "deep" sounding exhaust, but whatever sound there is was carefully engineered by Mazda. It doesn't sound quite like the rotaries of old. Replacing the catalytic will increase the sound a bit even with a resonated midpipe. Troll around here and youtube and you'll likely find a video of somebody with stock muffler and a midpipe.
Mr. Dallas is mostly right about brakes. You can't get good brakes for $200, but you can for $250. Centric "premium" rotors are about $160 total, Bendix CT-3 top-of-the-line ceramic pads are $40 per end ($80 total). I run those rotors on the street and road race track. I use the Bendix pads on the street including some "canyon running" and autocrosses and I'm very happy with them. I'm pretty particular about my brakes.
Drilled rotors are for looks only, even Porsche has admitted as much. They degrade brake performance on street cars. Slotted rotors are only a little better. Save your money.
Front Rear Power Drilled Slotted Plated Brake Rotors Ceramic Pads 57313pk | eBay
inb4 fleabay, inb4 any other jokes about ebay
Yeah I got a set for my 6 on there like this, I got my injen intake from there (which was genuine believe it or not), and I got my T304 Catback for it on there... seems like I'm really just going to be boned on doing anything to this car really, which I guess is good too that it was so well-engineered. No way I'm going to have big money to do anything other than a midpipe and ecu tune from MazdaManiac it seems. Should net a little bit of gains... Might get a catback just for a tone and install a presence around my area.... Lots of Honda punks in my area with their Del Slows and PReludes that think they're the fastest thing in the area... My 6, with just an intake and catback, lightened wheels and a knowledgeable driver created a big reputation in just 6 monthsa round here...
looks like racing beat has the centric stoptech rotors, butn they're just under 300 a pair... Ouch. Looks like this car is going to be a long term project... guess i gotta treat her better than my other cars haha.
Last edited by DragonLord3688; 08-20-2015 at 05:28 AM.
08-20-2015, 08:14 AM
#5112
Water Foul
Wankelbolt is right about mixing and matching brand name parts to create a good brake setup. Rock Auto has inexpensive, good quality, name brand parts at good prices.
Plain Centric rotors are about $165 for both axles, for example. The only difference between Centric and StopTech rotors are the vanes, which are supposed to cool slightly better in the StopTech line. If you are not tracking your car, you don't need to think about that at all.
A lot of manufacturers make great brake pads. Bendix, Raytbestos, Bosch, Beck/Arnley are all fine. Select semi-metallic pads and shop by price among name brands. I don't like ceramic pads on the RX-8. The OEM brakes are so good, that ceramics are a significant step backwards in stopping power.
I would stay away from any of those inexpensive kits. The ones I have seen have been junk. You get what you pay for.
Sorry for flying off the handle last night. I have been buying track brakes for so long that I forgot about the good, affordable options that are available.
Plain Centric rotors are about $165 for both axles, for example. The only difference between Centric and StopTech rotors are the vanes, which are supposed to cool slightly better in the StopTech line. If you are not tracking your car, you don't need to think about that at all.
A lot of manufacturers make great brake pads. Bendix, Raytbestos, Bosch, Beck/Arnley are all fine. Select semi-metallic pads and shop by price among name brands. I don't like ceramic pads on the RX-8. The OEM brakes are so good, that ceramics are a significant step backwards in stopping power.
I would stay away from any of those inexpensive kits. The ones I have seen have been junk. You get what you pay for.
Sorry for flying off the handle last night. I have been buying track brakes for so long that I forgot about the good, affordable options that are available.
08-20-2015, 08:54 AM
#5113
New Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Think my RX8 may have died.
Hi all, not sure if this is the correct thread to post on but maybe you guys can help me.
I have a 2004 192 54k miles Rx8.
I was in traffic and as I went to pull away, my engine was not running! I had to get out and push the car to the side of the road as it would not start and it was not flooded. I had the car towed to my house and the next day it started fine. I drove around 2 miles and then I lost 50% of power and the check engine light was flashing. I tried to get the car home but was forced to pull over as I was getting quite a bit of smoke from the engine. I pulled the code and it's apparently a chamber 1 misfire. The car will no longer start.
Can anyone give me any ideas?? I plan to change the coils plugs and leads soon and hope this is the answer. Could I have burned out my CAT? Any help would be appreciated.
Thnx
I have a 2004 192 54k miles Rx8.
I was in traffic and as I went to pull away, my engine was not running! I had to get out and push the car to the side of the road as it would not start and it was not flooded. I had the car towed to my house and the next day it started fine. I drove around 2 miles and then I lost 50% of power and the check engine light was flashing. I tried to get the car home but was forced to pull over as I was getting quite a bit of smoke from the engine. I pulled the code and it's apparently a chamber 1 misfire. The car will no longer start.
Can anyone give me any ideas?? I plan to change the coils plugs and leads soon and hope this is the answer. Could I have burned out my CAT? Any help would be appreciated.
Thnx
08-20-2015, 11:03 AM
#5114
Registered
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok guys, i have a set of automatic front disc brake rotors (11.7") and i need to replace my rear brake pads so im wondering if it is possible to use those rotors since it is the same diameter. i saw somewhere that the inner hub is 1mm deeper on the front rotor? i know it would also depend on mounting screws and how the ebrake works. any help is appreciated
08-21-2015, 01:40 PM
#5115
Registered
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi all, not sure if this is the correct thread to post on but maybe you guys can help me.
I have a 2004 192 54k miles Rx8.
I was in traffic and as I went to pull away, my engine was not running! I had to get out and push the car to the side of the road as it would not start and it was not flooded. I had the car towed to my house and the next day it started fine. I drove around 2 miles and then I lost 50% of power and the check engine light was flashing. I tried to get the car home but was forced to pull over as I was getting quite a bit of smoke from the engine. I pulled the code and it's apparently a chamber 1 misfire. The car will no longer start.
Can anyone give me any ideas?? I plan to change the coils plugs and leads soon and hope this is the answer. Could I have burned out my CAT? Any help would be appreciated.
Thnx
I have a 2004 192 54k miles Rx8.
I was in traffic and as I went to pull away, my engine was not running! I had to get out and push the car to the side of the road as it would not start and it was not flooded. I had the car towed to my house and the next day it started fine. I drove around 2 miles and then I lost 50% of power and the check engine light was flashing. I tried to get the car home but was forced to pull over as I was getting quite a bit of smoke from the engine. I pulled the code and it's apparently a chamber 1 misfire. The car will no longer start.
Can anyone give me any ideas?? I plan to change the coils plugs and leads soon and hope this is the answer. Could I have burned out my CAT? Any help would be appreciated.
Thnx
I can not tell you , but i can tell you if you use the search feature you will surly find some thing here on site
.
08-21-2015, 02:02 PM
#5116
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
08-21-2015, 03:43 PM
#5117
Too old for PC
Hi all, not sure if this is the correct thread to post on but maybe you guys can help me.
I have a 2004 192 54k miles Rx8.
I was in traffic and as I went to pull away, my engine was not running! I had to get out and push the car to the side of the road as it would not start and it was not flooded. I had the car towed to my house and the next day it started fine. I drove around 2 miles and then I lost 50% of power and the check engine light was flashing. I tried to get the car home but was forced to pull over as I was getting quite a bit of smoke from the engine. I pulled the code and it's apparently a chamber 1 misfire. The car will no longer start.
Can anyone give me any ideas?? I plan to change the coils plugs and leads soon and hope this is the answer. Could I have burned out my CAT? Any help would be appreciated.
Thnx
I have a 2004 192 54k miles Rx8.
I was in traffic and as I went to pull away, my engine was not running! I had to get out and push the car to the side of the road as it would not start and it was not flooded. I had the car towed to my house and the next day it started fine. I drove around 2 miles and then I lost 50% of power and the check engine light was flashing. I tried to get the car home but was forced to pull over as I was getting quite a bit of smoke from the engine. I pulled the code and it's apparently a chamber 1 misfire. The car will no longer start.
Can anyone give me any ideas?? I plan to change the coils plugs and leads soon and hope this is the answer. Could I have burned out my CAT? Any help would be appreciated.
Thnx
08-21-2015, 03:58 PM
#5118
Its official name is Black Cherry Mica and 28W is, in fact, the code. Do realize it's a color that changes quite a bit depending on the light. At night it looks black, when overcast it ranges from a dark, metallic brown to the color of cherry Dr. Pepper, depending on how clean it is, and under bright sunlight, when perfectly clean, yes, it actually takes on a deep, sparkly, purple-ish color. Unless your '05 Shinka was repainted, you have the right color.
Last edited by New Yorker; 08-21-2015 at 06:26 PM.
08-21-2015, 09:14 PM
#5121
Professional Videographer
Need a new clutch. Research suggest Exedy Clutch Kit - Stage 1 as a good replacement.
Exedy Clutch Kit - Stage 1 for 04-07 RX-8 - Racing Beat
What flywheel goes with this clutch best? I track far more than I casually drive and need parts that will take the abuse. But I have no plans on adding power to the car for at least another few years. I think this clutch would be a good choice, but I'm getting a final opinion and requesting more info on a flywheel match.
BHR offers their flywheels (ACT Street lite, ACT Pro Lite, and BHR flywheel). What is the best for heavy track use? Alternatives then these three? Alternatives to the clutch I listed? Know anywhere to get it cheaper? This forums shows people getting all these parts for under $300 each. Price has gone up quite a bit since their posts, apparently.
Also going to need a throw out bearing. The OEM one has failed on me in the past. Looking for a good upgrade. Suggestions? Any other parts I'm missing?
Exedy Clutch Kit - Stage 1 for 04-07 RX-8 - Racing Beat
What flywheel goes with this clutch best? I track far more than I casually drive and need parts that will take the abuse. But I have no plans on adding power to the car for at least another few years. I think this clutch would be a good choice, but I'm getting a final opinion and requesting more info on a flywheel match.
BHR offers their flywheels (ACT Street lite, ACT Pro Lite, and BHR flywheel). What is the best for heavy track use? Alternatives then these three? Alternatives to the clutch I listed? Know anywhere to get it cheaper? This forums shows people getting all these parts for under $300 each. Price has gone up quite a bit since their posts, apparently.
Also going to need a throw out bearing. The OEM one has failed on me in the past. Looking for a good upgrade. Suggestions? Any other parts I'm missing?
Last edited by Team Tora Productions; 08-21-2015 at 09:17 PM.
08-22-2015, 08:40 AM
#5122
Water Foul
Spend a little more time searching this forum about that clutch. A lot of people have had trouble with it. The consensus recommendation seems to be stick with OEM. It can handle anything a NA engine can throw at it.
08-22-2015, 09:33 AM
#5123
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 252 Likes
on
110 Posts
The best is OEM, across the board. More torque capacity than the N/A engine can possibly produce, and still good enough for nearly all forced induction builds. It fits perfect, lasts a long time, and is cheap.
Don't bother with anything else.
Stage1 has all sorts of issues:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...e-1-hd-253431/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...clutch-244381/
Don't bother with anything else.
Stage1 has all sorts of issues:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...e-1-hd-253431/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...clutch-244381/
