Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
10-18-2015, 01:17 PM
#5427
weeeeeeeeee
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granted, this is far from statistical proof but the one case where the guy was specific (that I read) got his coils off of EBAY and we all know how shoddy those purchases can be -- plenty of real statistical evidence supports that.
Looks like the official Mazda documentation (reading Ash's posts) is that cars that previously had As can go to Bs and Cs, Bs can go to Cs and Cs must use Cs. They are only interchangeable to the newer revs.
This could also only be Mazda's way of pushing the REVs out for dealerships to ensure they're always installing the latest REV.
But again, I'm not convinced. These codes imply the problem is a legit bad coil / wiring.
Looks like the official Mazda documentation (reading Ash's posts) is that cars that previously had As can go to Bs and Cs, Bs can go to Cs and Cs must use Cs. They are only interchangeable to the newer revs.
This could also only be Mazda's way of pushing the REVs out for dealerships to ensure they're always installing the latest REV.
But again, I'm not convinced. These codes imply the problem is a legit bad coil / wiring.
P1351
IDM Input Circuit Malfunction/ Ignition Coil Control Circuit High Voltage
P1352
Ignition Coil A Primary Circuit Malfunction
P1353
Ignition Coil B Primary Circuit Malfunction
P1354
Ignition Coil C Primary Circuit Malfunction
P1355
Ignition Coil D Primary Circuit Malfunction
IDM Input Circuit Malfunction/ Ignition Coil Control Circuit High Voltage
P1352
Ignition Coil A Primary Circuit Malfunction
P1353
Ignition Coil B Primary Circuit Malfunction
P1354
Ignition Coil C Primary Circuit Malfunction
P1355
Ignition Coil D Primary Circuit Malfunction
10-18-2015, 01:33 PM
#5428
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Originally Posted by ShellDude
granted, this is far from statistical proof but the one case where the guy was specific (that I read) got his coils off of EBAY and we all know how shoddy those purchases can be -- plenty of real statistical evidence supports that.
Looks like the official Mazda documentation (reading Ash's posts) is that cars that previously had As can go to Bs and Cs, Bs can go to Cs and Cs must use Cs. They are only interchangeable to the newer revs.
This could also only be Mazda's way of pushing the REVs out for dealerships to ensure they're always installing the latest REV.
But again, I'm not convinced. These codes imply the problem is a legit bad coil / wiring.
Looks like the official Mazda documentation (reading Ash's posts) is that cars that previously had As can go to Bs and Cs, Bs can go to Cs and Cs must use Cs. They are only interchangeable to the newer revs.
This could also only be Mazda's way of pushing the REVs out for dealerships to ensure they're always installing the latest REV.
But again, I'm not convinced. These codes imply the problem is a legit bad coil / wiring.
10-18-2015, 01:38 PM
#5429
weeeeeeeeee
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This could also only be Mazda's way of pushing the REVs out for dealerships to ensure they're always installing the latest REV.
10-18-2015, 01:42 PM
#5430
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Yeah. The points that I see them as are:
A) Counterfeit coils can cause the CELs to occur, this isn't surprising, we can't trust them on anything
B) Aftermarket coils (BHR was mentioned in the thread) can cause the CEL to occur, and those we can trust
C) CEL text indicates an electrical check of the coils.
D) A and B both confirm that there is an ECU check for coil validation, but only A would confirm a check for coil performance.
E) Ash's indication about only forward compatibility (or backwards compatibility if you look at it from the coil's point of view instead of the ECU's) is plausible, though this can't be obtained through wiring, as the wiring would remain the same. It would HAVE to be a command-and-response situation from the ECU logic, with later coils built to return the correct signals for each current and prior ECU version. This is also not outside the realm of what Mazda has done with other electrical component validations
The exact ECU versions and coil versions that cause trouble, or don't cause trouble, is where the water gets muddy, as there is conflicting information. The conflicts could be because there is inconsistency in either, OR because the people reporting it are mistaking exactly what they have.
So the only really clear point is that for USDM ECUs, all coils are viable as long as they aren't counterfeit.
JDM ECUs have some type of coil revision / legitimacy check that could trip up a prospective coil buyer.
And that's pretty much where I have to leave it, without being able to define what that is.
A) Counterfeit coils can cause the CELs to occur, this isn't surprising, we can't trust them on anything
B) Aftermarket coils (BHR was mentioned in the thread) can cause the CEL to occur, and those we can trust
C) CEL text indicates an electrical check of the coils.
D) A and B both confirm that there is an ECU check for coil validation, but only A would confirm a check for coil performance.
E) Ash's indication about only forward compatibility (or backwards compatibility if you look at it from the coil's point of view instead of the ECU's) is plausible, though this can't be obtained through wiring, as the wiring would remain the same. It would HAVE to be a command-and-response situation from the ECU logic, with later coils built to return the correct signals for each current and prior ECU version. This is also not outside the realm of what Mazda has done with other electrical component validations
The exact ECU versions and coil versions that cause trouble, or don't cause trouble, is where the water gets muddy, as there is conflicting information. The conflicts could be because there is inconsistency in either, OR because the people reporting it are mistaking exactly what they have.
So the only really clear point is that for USDM ECUs, all coils are viable as long as they aren't counterfeit.
JDM ECUs have some type of coil revision / legitimacy check that could trip up a prospective coil buyer.
And that's pretty much where I have to leave it, without being able to define what that is.
10-18-2015, 01:45 PM
#5431
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Bet all the people who had issues bought counterfeit coils, or the coils were faulty. Or maybe, just MAYBE, the coils sold in the US have different part numbers from the coils sold in Japan, and so have some sort of difference. No other way to explain this.
I'll pull my C coils tomorrow and check the part numbers. It's midnight over here. Too bored to go out now lol.
I'll pull my C coils tomorrow and check the part numbers. It's midnight over here. Too bored to go out now lol.
10-18-2015, 01:49 PM
#5432
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
Yeah. The points that I see them as are:
A) Counterfeit coils can cause the CELs to occur, this isn't surprising, we can't trust them on anything
B) Aftermarket coils (BHR was mentioned in the thread) can cause the CEL to occur, and those we can trust
C) CEL text indicates an electrical check of the coils.
D) A and B both confirm that there is an ECU check for coil validation, but only A would confirm a check for coil performance.
E) Ash's indication about only forward compatibility (or backwards compatibility if you look at it from the coil's point of view instead of the ECU's) is plausible, though this can't be obtained through wiring, as the wiring would remain the same. It would HAVE to be a command-and-response situation from the ECU logic, with later coils built to return the correct signals for each current and prior ECU version. This is also not outside the realm of what Mazda has done with other electrical component validations
The exact ECU versions and coil versions that cause trouble, or don't cause trouble, is where the water gets muddy, as there is conflicting information. The conflicts could be because there is inconsistency in either, OR because the people reporting it are mistaking exactly what they have.
So the only really clear point is that for USDM ECUs, all coils are viable as long as they aren't counterfeit.
JDM ECUs have some type of coil revision / legitimacy check that could trip up a prospective coil buyer.
And that's pretty much where I have to leave it, without being able to define what that is.
A) Counterfeit coils can cause the CELs to occur, this isn't surprising, we can't trust them on anything
B) Aftermarket coils (BHR was mentioned in the thread) can cause the CEL to occur, and those we can trust
C) CEL text indicates an electrical check of the coils.
D) A and B both confirm that there is an ECU check for coil validation, but only A would confirm a check for coil performance.
E) Ash's indication about only forward compatibility (or backwards compatibility if you look at it from the coil's point of view instead of the ECU's) is plausible, though this can't be obtained through wiring, as the wiring would remain the same. It would HAVE to be a command-and-response situation from the ECU logic, with later coils built to return the correct signals for each current and prior ECU version. This is also not outside the realm of what Mazda has done with other electrical component validations
The exact ECU versions and coil versions that cause trouble, or don't cause trouble, is where the water gets muddy, as there is conflicting information. The conflicts could be because there is inconsistency in either, OR because the people reporting it are mistaking exactly what they have.
So the only really clear point is that for USDM ECUs, all coils are viable as long as they aren't counterfeit.
JDM ECUs have some type of coil revision / legitimacy check that could trip up a prospective coil buyer.
And that's pretty much where I have to leave it, without being able to define what that is.
10-18-2015, 02:11 PM
#5433
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
Yeah. The points that I see them as are:
A) Counterfeit coils can cause the CELs to occur, this isn't surprising, we can't trust them on anything
B) Aftermarket coils (BHR was mentioned in the thread) can cause the CEL to occur, and those we can trust
C) CEL text indicates an electrical check of the coils.
D) A and B both confirm that there is an ECU check for coil validation, but only A would confirm a check for coil performance.
E) Ash's indication about only forward compatibility (or backwards compatibility if you look at it from the coil's point of view instead of the ECU's) is plausible, though this can't be obtained through wiring, as the wiring would remain the same. It would HAVE to be a command-and-response situation from the ECU logic, with later coils built to return the correct signals for each current and prior ECU version. This is also not outside the realm of what Mazda has done with other electrical component validations
The exact ECU versions and coil versions that cause trouble, or don't cause trouble, is where the water gets muddy, as there is conflicting information. The conflicts could be because there is inconsistency in either, OR because the people reporting it are mistaking exactly what they have.
So the only really clear point is that for USDM ECUs, all coils are viable as long as they aren't counterfeit.
JDM ECUs have some type of coil revision / legitimacy check that could trip up a prospective coil buyer.
And that's pretty much where I have to leave it, without being able to define what that is.
A) Counterfeit coils can cause the CELs to occur, this isn't surprising, we can't trust them on anything
B) Aftermarket coils (BHR was mentioned in the thread) can cause the CEL to occur, and those we can trust
C) CEL text indicates an electrical check of the coils.
D) A and B both confirm that there is an ECU check for coil validation, but only A would confirm a check for coil performance.
E) Ash's indication about only forward compatibility (or backwards compatibility if you look at it from the coil's point of view instead of the ECU's) is plausible, though this can't be obtained through wiring, as the wiring would remain the same. It would HAVE to be a command-and-response situation from the ECU logic, with later coils built to return the correct signals for each current and prior ECU version. This is also not outside the realm of what Mazda has done with other electrical component validations
The exact ECU versions and coil versions that cause trouble, or don't cause trouble, is where the water gets muddy, as there is conflicting information. The conflicts could be because there is inconsistency in either, OR because the people reporting it are mistaking exactly what they have.
So the only really clear point is that for USDM ECUs, all coils are viable as long as they aren't counterfeit.
JDM ECUs have some type of coil revision / legitimacy check that could trip up a prospective coil buyer.
And that's pretty much where I have to leave it, without being able to define what that is.
I saw nycgps post in at least one of the threads and he stated pretty emphatically that the JDM ECUs are doing a check. It would be good to know more about what caused him to draw that conclusion as he knows his **** about our ECUs.
10-21-2015, 09:47 AM
#5434
Hi guys,
I have finally decided that I want to pull the trigger on an auto exe front bumper for my 8.
Question is, should I order from japanparts, nengun performance... or maybe some place else? Would really appreciate any opinions on this
I have finally decided that I want to pull the trigger on an auto exe front bumper for my 8.
Question is, should I order from japanparts, nengun performance... or maybe some place else? Would really appreciate any opinions on this
10-25-2015, 11:16 AM
#5436
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So I'm thinking of getting a new air filter for my car. My local Mazda parts dealer has 2 filters. One is called a "made in Japan OEM Filter" that's made to the exact specifications of the RX-8's original filter. The other one is the original filter made my Mazda.
Does anyone have any experience with this "OEM" filter? The price difference is $20. I'm not sure what to get. I'd like to save a little and get the OEM filter, but I don't know if it'll give trouble or reduce the car's performance compared to the original filter.
Thoughts?
Does anyone have any experience with this "OEM" filter? The price difference is $20. I'm not sure what to get. I'd like to save a little and get the OEM filter, but I don't know if it'll give trouble or reduce the car's performance compared to the original filter.
Thoughts?
10-25-2015, 12:17 PM
#5437
So I'm thinking of getting a new air filter for my car. My local Mazda parts dealer has 2 filters. One is called a "made in Japan OEM Filter" that's made to the exact specifications of the RX-8's original filter. The other one is the original filter made my Mazda.
Does anyone have any experience with this "OEM" filter? The price difference is $20. I'm not sure what to get. I'd like to save a little and get the OEM filter, but I don't know if it'll give trouble or reduce the car's performance compared to the original filter.
Thoughts?
Does anyone have any experience with this "OEM" filter? The price difference is $20. I'm not sure what to get. I'd like to save a little and get the OEM filter, but I don't know if it'll give trouble or reduce the car's performance compared to the original filter.
Thoughts?
Being a former civic ricer, Japanese parts were always worth 5-10 hp more right down to the taillights. 👍 But either will do exactly the same thing. It's just the jap one will make your car feel faster. Just does, can't explain it...
10-25-2015, 01:16 PM
#5439
You gonna eat that?
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So I'm thinking of getting a new air filter for my car. My local Mazda parts dealer has 2 filters. One is called a "made in Japan OEM Filter" that's made to the exact specifications of the RX-8's original filter. The other one is the original filter made my Mazda.
Does anyone have any experience with this "OEM" filter? The price difference is $20. I'm not sure what to get. I'd like to save a little and get the OEM filter, but I don't know if it'll give trouble or reduce the car's performance compared to the original filter.
Thoughts?
Does anyone have any experience with this "OEM" filter? The price difference is $20. I'm not sure what to get. I'd like to save a little and get the OEM filter, but I don't know if it'll give trouble or reduce the car's performance compared to the original filter.
Thoughts?
I use Advance a lot because they often have online discount coupons.
10-25-2015, 01:17 PM
#5440
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Not helpful.
10-25-2015, 01:18 PM
#5441
10-25-2015, 01:25 PM
#5442
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Thanks for the replies guys. BigCajun those filters you use are not made by Mazda? So they're not original?
Are they exactly identical to the genuine Mazda filter filtration/power wise?
Are they exactly identical to the genuine Mazda filter filtration/power wise?
10-25-2015, 04:43 PM
#5443
You gonna eat that?
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Well, Idk for sure, never really read about any testing or comparisons, but I can't imagine there would be much of a difference.
10-25-2015, 04:47 PM
#5444
You gonna eat that?
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10-25-2015, 10:33 PM
#5445
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Originally Posted by wankinit
I did say they will both do exactly the same thing, it's just you can't put a price on imaginary hp. If $20 is an exuberant amount of money to you, than disregard my comment. (Mic dropped)...
Originally Posted by BigCajun
I wouldn't bet my life on it, but I doubt if the filters are actually 'made' by Mazda.
Usually, I only buy parts from the dealer that are only available from them.
Usually, I only buy parts from the dealer that are only available from them.
Thanks BigCajun
I'll get the fake/OEM replacement filter. Whatever it's called haha.
10-26-2015, 10:32 AM
#5446
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Another dumb question guys. I looked into changing my differential fluid. Seems like Redline 75w90 is what's recommended here. I looked around and that particular oil is not available here. Put it simply, multi grade GL-5 oil is not available here! Only single grade. What now? 
10-26-2015, 10:41 AM
#5448
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Okay, hopefully this isn't TOO dumb, but once I have my engine out how can I safely set it down for transportation? I half want to just put it flat on the oil pan but thought I should ask first. No luck searching things like "set renesis on ground" etc..
10-26-2015, 10:45 AM
#5449
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Just use the Mazda dealer stuff if you can get it, it's very good.
10-26-2015, 10:48 AM
#5450
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Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
As for physically preparing the engine for shipment, you need to locate a pallet to use. I strongly prefer the smallest pallet that the engine will safely sit on for ease of loading and unloading. Please do not use a junk pallet or something you built out of scrap, since I often unload these by hand with the local driver. Used or irregular/damaged pallets are often available behind department or grocery stores, just ask a manager if they have any they plan to throw away (they usually cannot use irregular or lightly damaged pallets and will give you these). Sit the engine flat on the pallet in the center. IF shipping a complete longblock, you may want to use some small pieces of cut 2x4 to form a cradle for the oilpan and stabilize the engine, or you can lay the engine flat on the flywheel. BE SURE the engine is completely dry of any oil (in the case of a longblock) or coolant, the block's coolant drain is on the drivers side of the intermediate iron, an extended hex bolt where the motor mount attatches.