Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#5451
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
API Service GL-4 or GL-5 (SAE 75W-90) is what is recommended for the manual trans and API Service GL-5 (SAE 80W-90) for the rear differential. I am not familiar with that brand so I can't say if it is good stuff or not.
#5452
Sicker than your average
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Colombo, Sri Lanka
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
API Service GL-4 or GL-5 (SAE 75W-90) is what is recommended for the manual trans and API Service GL-5 (SAE 80W-90) for the rear differential. I am not familiar with that brand so I can't say if it is good stuff or not.
#5454
Senior Member
So I'm thinking of getting a new air filter for my car. My local Mazda parts dealer has 2 filters. One is called a "made in Japan OEM Filter" that's made to the exact specifications of the RX-8's original filter. The other one is the original filter made my Mazda.
Does anyone have any experience with this "OEM" filter? The price difference is $20. I'm not sure what to get. I'd like to save a little and get the OEM filter, but I don't know if it'll give trouble or reduce the car's performance compared to the original filter.
Thoughts?
Does anyone have any experience with this "OEM" filter? The price difference is $20. I'm not sure what to get. I'd like to save a little and get the OEM filter, but I don't know if it'll give trouble or reduce the car's performance compared to the original filter.
Thoughts?
You can be a good customer and buy from them or you can get their recommendations and shop around, but remember, if your loyal you usually get slack with that RAPE!!!!! bill comes that is like 900 bones. (At least with my experience with GOOD dealers)
For good measure I usually take my filter out very carefully and vac the air side not the engine side every once in a blue moon if I am working on the car. It prevents a problem later, but also is a good check for HOLY **** HOW DID I GET A DAMN BIRD IN THIS INTAKE!
#5455
Taken from rotary resurrection
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
Ah perfect, thanks a bunch!
#5456
#5457
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Originally Posted by Steve Dallas
^ Not where you live. An 80W or 90W single grade GL-5 should be fine. Be sure it contains the needed friction modifiers for an LSD if you have one.
Originally Posted by badinfluence
Make sure you get a filter that can filter small particles. K&Ns cannot without that oil and sometimes not at all. If you have a turbo, it isn't as big a deal, but the oil passages in the RX8 in the rotors are CRITICAL that they stay clean. Mazda really did put some of their soul into that air filter. I would stick with OEM, or what your dealer recommends.
You can be a good customer and buy from them or you can get their recommendations and shop around, but remember, if your loyal you usually get slack with that RAPE!!!!! bill comes that is like 900 bones. (At least with my experience with GOOD dealers)
For good measure I usually take my filter out very carefully and vac the air side not the engine side every once in a blue moon if I am working on the car. It prevents a problem later, but also is a good check for HOLY **** HOW DID I GET A DAMN BIRD IN THIS INTAKE!
You can be a good customer and buy from them or you can get their recommendations and shop around, but remember, if your loyal you usually get slack with that RAPE!!!!! bill comes that is like 900 bones. (At least with my experience with GOOD dealers)
For good measure I usually take my filter out very carefully and vac the air side not the engine side every once in a blue moon if I am working on the car. It prevents a problem later, but also is a good check for HOLY **** HOW DID I GET A DAMN BIRD IN THIS INTAKE!
The filter I got is from a company called Vic. Heard of it? It's made in Japan. I've attached a few pics of it. The dealer said this is an OEM replacement made to perform exactly like the genuine filter, so it should be good yeah?
#5458
Here comes a stupid question I want an rx8 for my dd but I don't have a garage I have a parking spot but not a garage, I have a place that I can fix it but every night and day it will be exposed to the weather I plan on cleaning it as much as possible and keeping good care but I've hear that rust can be bad on mazdas, should I be worried about tht, and could tht effect performance, and what should I maybe change out regularly
#5460
Time for boost...
iTrader: (24)
Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
Where have you heard that Mazda's are bad for rust? Of course you get some bad eggs in a basket, but they're no more susceptible to rust than any other vehicle manufacturer.
Just do a detailed check prior to purchase and clean regularly, like you would any other car.
Also, have you read the new and potential owners sticky?
Just do a detailed check prior to purchase and clean regularly, like you would any other car.
Also, have you read the new and potential owners sticky?
#5462
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
There are a lot of rust complaints, but those are mostly from the snow belt and DDs.
The salt and brine snow melting compounds used on the roads are very corrosive.
I don't drive mine in the winter if it snows, or if the roads are wet from runoff.
My old 4WD pickup that I've been driving in winter is rusting out terribly.
The salt and brine snow melting compounds used on the roads are very corrosive.
I don't drive mine in the winter if it snows, or if the roads are wet from runoff.
My old 4WD pickup that I've been driving in winter is rusting out terribly.
#5464
There are a lot of rust complaints, but those are mostly from the snow belt and DDs.
The salt and brine snow melting compounds used on the roads are very corrosive.
I don't drive mine in the winter if it snows, or if the roads are wet from runoff.
My old 4WD pickup that I've been driving in winter is rusting out terribly.
The salt and brine snow melting compounds used on the roads are very corrosive.
I don't drive mine in the winter if it snows, or if the roads are wet from runoff.
My old 4WD pickup that I've been driving in winter is rusting out terribly.
#5466
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
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Get it professionally rust proofed, and/or look for one with the rust proofing already on it. The original owner of mine got it rust proofed, and it has only a little bit of rust in a few spots after daily driving in new england snow and rain for 5 years, 125,000 miles.
By contrast, my MSM has significantly more rust starting to show up, after only 2 winters of PA snow driving and more like 50,000 miles of DD.
Both 2005s.
Rust proofing works.
By contrast, my MSM has significantly more rust starting to show up, after only 2 winters of PA snow driving and more like 50,000 miles of DD.
Both 2005s.
Rust proofing works.
#5467
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
#5468
No but you specify that you don't drive it daily and that you put it in a garage, so I was just making sure sorry,... It's been a long day and I'm chilling with friends so idk if I'm even quoting the right person
#5469
There are a lot of rust complaints, but those are mostly from the snow belt and DDs.
The salt and brine snow melting compounds used on the roads are very corrosive.
I don't drive mine in the winter if it snows, or if the roads are wet from runoff.
My old 4WD pickup that I've been driving in winter is rusting out terribly.
The salt and brine snow melting compounds used on the roads are very corrosive.
I don't drive mine in the winter if it snows, or if the roads are wet from runoff.
My old 4WD pickup that I've been driving in winter is rusting out terribly.
#5470
What is the fluid pan next to the CAT? It is behind the oil pan and I accidentally drained it instead of the oil....new car guy here. I am thinking maybe it's the Trans fluid? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
#5472
It was more of a brown but II now know it is the tranny fluid. My set up looks a lot different than the DIYs I have found on here, so think I found the fill plug but haven't gotten it off yet. Just want to make sure I am spending time taking off the bolt I need to so I'm not wasting any more time .
I am pretty sure it is the one on the upper left but not sure.
Last edited by holle_zachare; 10-29-2015 at 11:56 AM.
#5474
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Trying to help out a friend here guys. So the car's rear keeps hitting the bump stops with 3 or more people in. After doing some reading, it seems that the rear shocks are blown. Digging further in this site, the best OEM replacement shocks seem to be KYB Gas-A-Justs.
Now, what's needed to get these Gas-A-Justs? The stock shocks have a sticker on with the numbers "FE92 28 700". I read on another thread about a guy getting these KYBs, and he said the part number was "551116". Would giving these numbers to the KYB agent enough to get the right shocks? The car came with standard suspension btw. The OEM brand Tokico is said to be noticeably cheaper than KYB here. Anyone know the part numbers for OEM replacement Tokicos or KYBs? Greatly appreciated.
Now, what's needed to get these Gas-A-Justs? The stock shocks have a sticker on with the numbers "FE92 28 700". I read on another thread about a guy getting these KYBs, and he said the part number was "551116". Would giving these numbers to the KYB agent enough to get the right shocks? The car came with standard suspension btw. The OEM brand Tokico is said to be noticeably cheaper than KYB here. Anyone know the part numbers for OEM replacement Tokicos or KYBs? Greatly appreciated.
#5475
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Dumb question but I don't know much about suspension. There is a new road close to where I live and I feel every small dip in the road to the point where my front end is constantly bouncing up an down, a small amount at least under 6 inches. The suspension on my car is stock and I don't see anything wrong with the struts or springs all around.
Also this only happens on the new road, there is an older road that connects to it and I get no bouncing on that road so could it just be the road and my car is fine?
Also this only happens on the new road, there is an older road that connects to it and I get no bouncing on that road so could it just be the road and my car is fine?
Last edited by blckninja; 10-31-2015 at 01:28 AM. Reason: Moar Info