Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#5626
Put it up on an alignment rack...jack the car up...and you can turn the wheels and see if you see anything...or feel anything
Usually if the diff is acting up it will make noises on tight turns...and be quiet straight
I really doubt the diff is a problem unless you have been doing a lot of burnouts The diff is pretty strong
Look for rubbed spots on the wheel wells. Check the brake backing plates....there really isn't much to rub that you wouldn't see
What are you running for wheels and tires? ( offset and width and tire size? )
Usually if the diff is acting up it will make noises on tight turns...and be quiet straight
I really doubt the diff is a problem unless you have been doing a lot of burnouts The diff is pretty strong
Look for rubbed spots on the wheel wells. Check the brake backing plates....there really isn't much to rub that you wouldn't see
What are you running for wheels and tires? ( offset and width and tire size? )
Could it be the purge valve?
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 12-26-2015 at 01:59 PM.
#5627
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
If you have warm start issues with new ignition then compression is a good place to start.
If you have an old starter sometimes the upgraded one ( $200ish) from Amazon will help short term as it is a lot faster than the older stock one
There will be scrubbing noises from the tires when turning lock to lock in the front.
Hard to tell what your issue is...internet diagnosis of suspension noises is very difficult. They are hard enough in person
If your purge valve is acting up you will get a CEL...it is one of the systems that OBD2 monitors very strictly
There often is a passenger side rear suspension noise in these cars...I have one in mine and have never gotten it to go away completely. In my case it isn't that annoying and I have so many other noises I hardly notice it any more
If you have an old starter sometimes the upgraded one ( $200ish) from Amazon will help short term as it is a lot faster than the older stock one
There will be scrubbing noises from the tires when turning lock to lock in the front.
Hard to tell what your issue is...internet diagnosis of suspension noises is very difficult. They are hard enough in person
If your purge valve is acting up you will get a CEL...it is one of the systems that OBD2 monitors very strictly
There often is a passenger side rear suspension noise in these cars...I have one in mine and have never gotten it to go away completely. In my case it isn't that annoying and I have so many other noises I hardly notice it any more
#5628
If you have warm start issues with new ignition then compression is a good place to start.
If you have an old starter sometimes the upgraded one ( $200ish) from Amazon will help short term as it is a lot faster than the older stock one
There will be scrubbing noises from the tires when turning lock to lock in the front.
Hard to tell what your issue is...internet diagnosis of suspension noises is very difficult. They are hard enough in person
If your purge valve is acting up you will get a CEL...it is one of the systems that OBD2 monitors very strictly
There often is a passenger side rear suspension noise in these cars...I have one in mine and have never gotten it to go away completely. In my case it isn't that annoying and I have so many other noises I hardly notice it any more
If you have an old starter sometimes the upgraded one ( $200ish) from Amazon will help short term as it is a lot faster than the older stock one
There will be scrubbing noises from the tires when turning lock to lock in the front.
Hard to tell what your issue is...internet diagnosis of suspension noises is very difficult. They are hard enough in person
If your purge valve is acting up you will get a CEL...it is one of the systems that OBD2 monitors very strictly
There often is a passenger side rear suspension noise in these cars...I have one in mine and have never gotten it to go away completely. In my case it isn't that annoying and I have so many other noises I hardly notice it any more
#5629
Is there any connection with the purge valve and the a/c?
I have a hunch the purge valve may be fine, its the ecm that may be not communicating properly with it. Also I noticed that when I turn on my car cold first in the morning and pop the hood, I hear this sound like when one tries to turn off a computer by holding the button on the tower. Anyone know what I mean? Like when the light turns from green to amber that sound.
I have a hunch the purge valve may be fine, its the ecm that may be not communicating properly with it. Also I noticed that when I turn on my car cold first in the morning and pop the hood, I hear this sound like when one tries to turn off a computer by holding the button on the tower. Anyone know what I mean? Like when the light turns from green to amber that sound.
#5630
Updates: Sup bros, this is a dark day. I just got back from the Mazda dealership. It wasnt the ecm or the purge valve. Based on "their" testing. However they are doing a cold compression test soon to confirm the problem but they feel on of the engine's apex seals are going bad. I was so crushed to hear that. If ANYONE has any idea what else it could be PLEASE let me know. Much appreciated! The symptoms are it cranks after I get gas and when its hot(less now that I just had the plugs the coils and the wires changed.) It has a new starter and fuel pump. It honestly breaks my heart to give it up esp now when money is a BIG problem for me but if it has to be it has to be. Hope everyone is having a Happy New Year.
#5631
Alright so this is probably a really dumb question, but it is a different type of engine and i just want to make sure.
Is it alright to add additives like fuel injector cleaner and what not into the fuel tank? I do premix a little with 2 stroke oil, just to make sure i can lubricate the seals as much as possible, and i cant think of a reason why injector cleaner could hurt, but i just want to make sure
Is it alright to add additives like fuel injector cleaner and what not into the fuel tank? I do premix a little with 2 stroke oil, just to make sure i can lubricate the seals as much as possible, and i cant think of a reason why injector cleaner could hurt, but i just want to make sure
#5632
Metatron
iTrader: (1)
Anything commonly added to piston engine fuel will be fine with a rotary.
...that Lucas Upper Cylinder Lube is one of my favorites - mostly polyisobutylene, a clean burning super-slippery synthetic 'oil' component.
...that Lucas Upper Cylinder Lube is one of my favorites - mostly polyisobutylene, a clean burning super-slippery synthetic 'oil' component.
#5633
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I want to change my coilovers to a simpler Bilstein shock and spring set for regular street use and 0 track time and maintain the stock height of the car. Im thinking of going for the Bilstein B6 HD shock set but im confused which springs to go with them. Any suggestions?
#5634
Today my car had trouble starting in the cold cold weather. The battery is less than a year old. Any other ideas besides, the engine, the starter, the fuel pump, the pcm, the fuses, the catalytic converter, fuel injectors, solenoids and engine temp sensor?
All those were addressed by the dealership. Well...the car still needs a COLD compression test, soon but what could cause a slow start with the car in super cold weather. Like 1 degree outside? Thanks
All those were addressed by the dealership. Well...the car still needs a COLD compression test, soon but what could cause a slow start with the car in super cold weather. Like 1 degree outside? Thanks
#5635
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
Its also good to clean the terminals at the starter too. Those easily become corroded and could cause issues.
Last edited by Jon316G; 01-05-2016 at 07:53 AM.
#5636
My '04 had some trouble starting lately (motor recently rebuilt, new ignition components, new starter) and one item I noticed needed attention were the battery clamps. I've been cleaning them, but they were corroded and difficult to clamp from years of constant loosening and tightening. I installed new battery clamps and noticed a significant difference in the way it starts.
Its also good to clean the terminals at the starter too. Those easily become corroded and could cause issues.
Its also good to clean the terminals at the starter too. Those easily become corroded and could cause issues.
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 01-06-2016 at 06:38 AM.
#5637
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
Think I paid $7 at Autozone for new clamps and the install is fairly easy.
If you don't have a good electrical connection, it will require more current to overcome a dirty connection.
It will also limit the amount of current charging the battery.
Not saying this is your problem, but $7 for new clamps and piece of mind isn't bad.
Its also good to do anyway as preventative maintenance if they haven't been replaced in a long time (or not at all).
And don't forget about the terminals at the end of the wires going to the starter.
I've actually had that cause starting issues with another RX8.
Just use a wire brush to clean them (and don't forget to disconnect the battery before cleaning those!)
If you don't have a good electrical connection, it will require more current to overcome a dirty connection.
It will also limit the amount of current charging the battery.
Not saying this is your problem, but $7 for new clamps and piece of mind isn't bad.
Its also good to do anyway as preventative maintenance if they haven't been replaced in a long time (or not at all).
And don't forget about the terminals at the end of the wires going to the starter.
I've actually had that cause starting issues with another RX8.
Just use a wire brush to clean them (and don't forget to disconnect the battery before cleaning those!)
Last edited by Jon316G; 01-06-2016 at 06:53 AM.
#5638
Think I paid $7 at Autozone for new clamps and the install is fairly easy.
If you don't have a good electrical connection, it will require more current to overcome a dirty connection.
It will also limit the amount of current charging the battery.
Not saying this is your problem, but $7 for new clamps and piece of mind isn't bad.
Its also good to do anyway as preventative maintenance if they haven't been replaced in a long time (or not at all).
And don't forget about the terminals at the end of the wires going to the starter.
I've actually had that cause starting issues with another RX8.
Just use a wire brush to clean them (and don't forget to disconnect the battery before cleaning those!)
If you don't have a good electrical connection, it will require more current to overcome a dirty connection.
It will also limit the amount of current charging the battery.
Not saying this is your problem, but $7 for new clamps and piece of mind isn't bad.
Its also good to do anyway as preventative maintenance if they haven't been replaced in a long time (or not at all).
And don't forget about the terminals at the end of the wires going to the starter.
I've actually had that cause starting issues with another RX8.
Just use a wire brush to clean them (and don't forget to disconnect the battery before cleaning those!)
Update we checked the clamps, they are ok. Nothing to be concerned about.
#5641
Time for boost...
iTrader: (24)
The key is to use this forum to your advantage and do as much research as possible, then go to other sources for the remainder of that info and make a decision what works best.
Should you still require info, feel free to start a thread about it. But don't expect anyone to take your hand and walk you through the process. Unless you want to pay that person...
#5642
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
#5643
Rx8 SOLDIER, I WASN'T WANTING ANYONE TO HOLD MY HAND. I was simply asking a question. I figured someone in this group might have put a turbo in their car. I would always do my research before doing anything to my car. I wouldn't just take someone's advice without checking into it. As I had said I figured I would get opinions on the matter first.
#5644
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
lol whos making the popcorn.
there is a swap section as bc said and major hp threads too. turbo/sc/no2
there is a swap section as bc said and major hp threads too. turbo/sc/no2
#5645
#5646
Time for boost...
iTrader: (24)
roberta, this is the internet. Please don't take offense. It's difficult to interpret text as emotion.
My post was just to advise you to do your research prior to commiting to an engine swap. We've seen it all over the past 10+ years that the rx8 has been available. We don't know anything about you, other than the fact you're wanting info on other engines. We jump to conclusions because as I said, we've seen it before. MANY times...
Anyways, continue to read up on the engine swap. Enjoy the car, read the new owners threads, read the turbo threads, read ALL threads which apply to you and your goals for the car. Should you have further questions, feel free to post them. Just be warned that if the question you ask could be answered by a simple search, then you'll most likely get razzed by the majority.
Good luck
My post was just to advise you to do your research prior to commiting to an engine swap. We've seen it all over the past 10+ years that the rx8 has been available. We don't know anything about you, other than the fact you're wanting info on other engines. We jump to conclusions because as I said, we've seen it before. MANY times...
Anyways, continue to read up on the engine swap. Enjoy the car, read the new owners threads, read the turbo threads, read ALL threads which apply to you and your goals for the car. Should you have further questions, feel free to post them. Just be warned that if the question you ask could be answered by a simple search, then you'll most likely get razzed by the majority.
Good luck
#5647
roberta, this is the internet. Please don't take offense. It's difficult to interpret text as emotion.
My post was just to advise you to do your research prior to commiting to an engine swap. We've seen it all over the past 10+ years that the rx8 has been available. We don't know anything about you, other than the fact you're wanting info on other engines. We jump to conclusions because as I said, we've seen it before. MANY times...
Anyways, continue to read up on the engine swap. Enjoy the car, read the new owners threads, read the turbo threads, read ALL threads which apply to you and your goals for the car. Should you have further questions, feel free to post them. Just be warned that if the question you ask could be answered by a simple search, then you'll most likely get razzed by the majority.
Good luck
My post was just to advise you to do your research prior to commiting to an engine swap. We've seen it all over the past 10+ years that the rx8 has been available. We don't know anything about you, other than the fact you're wanting info on other engines. We jump to conclusions because as I said, we've seen it before. MANY times...
Anyways, continue to read up on the engine swap. Enjoy the car, read the new owners threads, read the turbo threads, read ALL threads which apply to you and your goals for the car. Should you have further questions, feel free to post them. Just be warned that if the question you ask could be answered by a simple search, then you'll most likely get razzed by the majority.
Good luck
#5648
Senior Member
....the only reason I logged is to know, not to start a fight.
#5649
#5650
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Join Date: Sep 2015
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What temps are you seeing when your car is idling high? Colder temps tend to raise the idle so the emission system gets to operating temps quicker.
Can you describe the shaking better? It could the the natural shaking felt through the transmission. Or it could be worn motor mounts, dirty maf (have you checked it?) or eccentric shaft position sensor (commonly ess).
Can you describe the shaking better? It could the the natural shaking felt through the transmission. Or it could be worn motor mounts, dirty maf (have you checked it?) or eccentric shaft position sensor (commonly ess).
Sounds normal to me. I had my engine rebuilt and when it is warm it idles around that RPM. The only way to make it idle a little higher then that may be to get high performance wires and coils.
I believe your engine to be good and by any chance if anyone has stalling problems after the engine has warm and then shuts off, check the condenser fan that it is working properly. It can cause a engine to shut off
I believe your engine to be good and by any chance if anyone has stalling problems after the engine has warm and then shuts off, check the condenser fan that it is working properly. It can cause a engine to shut off
I don't know really though with these values if I could sort of "expect" to get issues at x amount of miles in the future. Maybe it's just useless worrying? I mean, the car works and gets me from A to B with no real hiccups and a grin on my face
To both of you, thanks for the replies!
Last edited by Elusi; 01-13-2016 at 04:38 PM.