Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#5651
Finally I have the results from Mazda, the cold compression of rotor 1 in the engine is in the 5s but rotor 2 is in the 6s, like 6.5. Anyone know how long I have. God it creaks my heart to sell this car. The same night I was told this a hot girl came up to me at the gas station, saying hey nice car!. That killed me. How much does it cost to get the engine rebuilt. Is it really that hard to do? Boy am I really milking the thread? Thanks for all the help bros.
#5652
Time for boost...
iTrader: (24)
Finally I have the results from Mazda, the cold compression of rotor 1 in the engine is in the 5s but rotor 2 is in the 6s, like 6.5. Anyone know how long I have. God it creaks my heart to sell this car. The same night I was told this a hot girl came up to me at the gas station, saying hey nice car!. That killed me. How much does it cost to get the engine rebuilt. Is it really that hard to do? Boy am I really milking the thread? Thanks for all the help bros.
How much will it cost? Depends where you have the work done. Plenty of builders here and outside of the forums.
Is it hard? Probably for you.
Are you milking this thread? Yes. You really need to search for your own answers. Your questions aren't dumb. They're just lazy.
#5653
I a considering purchasing a 2005 Mazda Rx8 Shinka, the car has 35K on the original motor. The dad of a friend of mine owns the car and would like to purchase a chevy volt. He is selling for 6K , is this a fair price?
#5654
Registered Rotary Head
Join Date: May 2015
Location: It's best you don't know
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just ask to test drive it or ask him. When doing so make sure you redline ut a few times. Make sure you make some hard corners. (Safely on a road with no traffic of course. Maybe try to take some hard turns in a parking lot. Hard and fast enough to squeal tires.)
Also do some hard breaking. All this is just like you would wanna drive any other used car. You really wanna stress it to make sure its all solid. Also before anything check the coolant to make sure theres no oil in it. If there is that could mean theres cracks in the block.
At the end of the drive shut it off and start it again (test is for hot start) really hard hot starts are a common problem for rx8s.
Finally dont forget to check the tires, rotors, and brake pads. If theres a lip on the rotors just below the break pads they might need to be replaced.
Oh and if he says theres been no body repairs every door, quarter panel, hood, ext should have the same vin thats on the dash.
Ive only had my 8 for about a year so everyone here can feel free to critique what i said. These are just the things i do. And if all that stuff i listed is solid. Thats a great deal.
I got a 2008 40th AE last year. It was in practically mint condition with 38k miles and i paid about 16k for it. Probably a lot more than i should have. But again its in nearly perfect condition so i shelled out the extra. Good luck on your buy and post pics if you decide to get it.
Last edited by NavyScubaSteve; 01-14-2016 at 05:04 PM. Reason: Adding breaks for easier reading
#5656
Registered Rotary Head
Join Date: May 2015
Location: It's best you don't know
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Going to have my 04 RX8 compression tested in mid January. I'm having just a tad shaky idle issue and I read here it seems likely to either be a dirty MAF or engine compression loss.
But while waiting for my time at the workshop, which has to rent and wait for the equipment for rotary compression test, I can't help to speculate. And with that some dumb question arrises.![Smilie](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
My idle issue only surfaces once the engine has warmed up fully. While "cold", idle RPM is way higher, staring above 1.5k and then dwindling down to what I suppose is around 750-800 once it's hot. Does this point towards compression issues rather than MAF?
It's really not a violent idle shake, but it's enough so that I can feel it and thus have wondered. The engine doesn't stall on me and I have no hot/cold starting issues _anymore_, but used to have occasional slow starts both while hot and cold (hotter were slightly more nail-biting) before I changed the starter as it turned out that it had the older slow one.
But while waiting for my time at the workshop, which has to rent and wait for the equipment for rotary compression test, I can't help to speculate. And with that some dumb question arrises.
![Smilie](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
My idle issue only surfaces once the engine has warmed up fully. While "cold", idle RPM is way higher, staring above 1.5k and then dwindling down to what I suppose is around 750-800 once it's hot. Does this point towards compression issues rather than MAF?
It's really not a violent idle shake, but it's enough so that I can feel it and thus have wondered. The engine doesn't stall on me and I have no hot/cold starting issues _anymore_, but used to have occasional slow starts both while hot and cold (hotter were slightly more nail-biting) before I changed the starter as it turned out that it had the older slow one.
Driving down the road at 30mph in 3rd gear at 3k rpm. Quickly shift down to 2nd gear. If you feel this violent shaking. (NOT VIBRATING) but shaking. Your motor mounts are bad. Now this is what i remember could be slightly wrong.
Also, visually inspect the motor mounts to see if the rubber is worn or broken. And check at your local mazda dealer. Ive signed up for a newsletter and i get cupons for free inspections all the time. Almost any inspection they do they will tell you if the motor mounts are bad. Hope this helps!
#5657
For what it's worth the shaky idling with a vibrating shifter at around 1.5k rpm when cold started is pretty normal. My S2 does it and most other people I've talked to have the same experience. I thought it was weird too when I was new to the rotary world but at the end of the day my car is healthy and pulls hard. Pretty positive this is ECU at work to warm the oil up / prevent the car from flooding in case of a shutoff while not damaging the motor with hard revs. Mazda even recommends a constant 3k or less rev before shutdown if you aren't fully warmed up.
Last edited by SpaceCaptainSteve; 01-15-2016 at 09:16 AM.
#5660
The customer sheet doesnt mention anything about starter speed. However I did get a new starter last year and the car takes like between 5-10 seconds to start. I say 5 but its hard to tell with the winter weather, which doesnt help starting.
#5662
Yes this was done at the dealer but there was no starter rpm. Why didnt they include that if they have rotor #1 and rotor #2 cold compression results? I am calling them back today though. Will update.
#5664
Anyways I called Mazda and they said the rpm's of the starter was around 225-230s I believe.
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 01-22-2016 at 04:32 PM.
#5666
Is it possible a Mazda rx-8 can have electrical issues and the engine could be fine? My compression is coming in a failing zone but the car only has 65k mi on it and the engine was changed before. Something seems fishy. I am thinking the purge valve but Mazda said "they tested it". Never got ohm readings on it cause they tested it for free.
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 01-29-2016 at 03:09 PM.
#5670
I never said it was a re-manufactured engine. "supposedly" Mazda says the car had the engine changed to a new engine in like 2010ish. So within 6 years the car is breaking down...? Sounds strange. Anyways I am checking one more thing before I give up and sell it. The fuel injectors. I was doing some research and I believe I even READ IT on one of the STICKYS here that the fuel injectors could be a issue. Plus I mentioned earlier that Autozone said much earlier in the year the car sounds like its trying to get gas. I just wonder how much it would cost for Mazda to only check it.
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 01-31-2016 at 08:27 AM.
#5671
I never said it was a re-manufactured engine. "supposedly" Mazda says the car had the engine changed to a new engine in like 2010ish. So within 6 years the car is breaking down...? Sounds strange. Anyways I am checking one more thing before I give up and sell it. The fuel injectors. I was doing some research and I believe I even READ IT on one of the STICKYS here that the fuel injectors could be a issue. Plus I mentioned earlier that Autozone said much earlier in the year the car sounds like its trying to get gas. I just wonder how much it would cost for Mazda to only check it.
#5672
I kind of did a quick look over your problem. Is your engine dying after reaching operating temperature and having a hard time restarting? It sounds like it is not getting enough gas. One problem that is often overlooked and I found out after having my engine rebuilt my car continued to died after running for a while. It turns out is was the big fan to be the fault. The cooling fan on the drive side had a short and was failing. I replaced that fan and everything ran great. I honestly do not think my engine needed rebuilt.
My car runs fine, the car doesnt stall or any thing but there is hesitation, shaking at a light esp if if I take off and dont warm it up. But I took it to the dealer and they said it had bad compression. I would like to get the fuel injectors tested. But the other big sign is if I have the car on for a bit 10-15 min and I try to turn it on again it wont start until it cools off. Like 10min. Its that what you experienced? Could that affect the compression. I dont know about the compression but IF a fan is a contributor could that be the reason? Btw which fan was that exactly?
* Thanks for the reply though I appreciate it.
#5673
40th anniversary Edition
BTW Mazdafan1892 your engine is a remanufactured engine. All replaced Mazda Renesis engines were remanufactured engines using new internal parts but with mostly used but good housings. The quality of these remanufactured engines varied widely, some good some bad.
#5674
I have an 04 RX8 GT
I know very little about cars. However I am a machinist, engineer and assembly/dis-assembly technician at an engineering company. I have access to mills, lathes, other tools, balancing machines, etc. You name it, we got it. Am I technically apt? Since I know nothing about cars? Would I need to re-balance the rotor assembly?
Only thing I don't have is time. If I were to rebuild my engine, realistically how long would it take/should I undertake it myself? How much would it cost to do it myself? I work 40 hours/week and go to the gym 3 days per week. I do like to enjoy my weekends somewhat though. Slaving 12 hours per day on the weekends is not going to happen
I know very little about cars. However I am a machinist, engineer and assembly/dis-assembly technician at an engineering company. I have access to mills, lathes, other tools, balancing machines, etc. You name it, we got it. Am I technically apt? Since I know nothing about cars? Would I need to re-balance the rotor assembly?
Only thing I don't have is time. If I were to rebuild my engine, realistically how long would it take/should I undertake it myself? How much would it cost to do it myself? I work 40 hours/week and go to the gym 3 days per week. I do like to enjoy my weekends somewhat though. Slaving 12 hours per day on the weekends is not going to happen
Last edited by antimatter; 02-01-2016 at 11:36 AM.
#5675
Time for boost...
iTrader: (24)
It could take you anywhere from a few weekends to a few months. Realistically, you should read the engine removal and teardown threads to get an idea. Break it down into what you think you can do.
Asking people on the internet for advice based on your personal skills, which we know nothing about, isn't going to get you the most accurate response.
Asking people on the internet for advice based on your personal skills, which we know nothing about, isn't going to get you the most accurate response.