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I need help. I tried going to auto zone asking what is the best for premixing my 2004 rx8 and he told me its a 4 stroke and that premixing would do more harm than good. Is that true or should I actually premix?
Your first mistake was asking a Bumperhead at AutoZone.
You should do your homework and research the reasons for premixing - just search this site for 'premix' threads.
Once you know why some people advocate premixing, you can make your own judgement.
Some owners swear by it, others think it's crazy...........
I need help. I tried going to auto zone asking what is the best for premixing my 2004 rx8 and he told me its a 4 stroke and that premixing would do more harm than good. Is that true or should I actually premix?
There is a lot of premix information on this site. The New Owners sticky has some especially good information. The very short version is, you want to use a JASO FC or FD 2 cycle oil, and mix it at a concentration of about 1/2oz per gallon of gas.
Hi, i am new to the forum and i have read the newbie posts. However i was wondering if someone could provide a checklist of things to look for when buying an rx-8? Whats good and what to stay away from. Thanks
Tucker666, the most important thing is to have a rotary-specific compression test done on the rotary engine BEFORE purchase. This rotary-specific compression test can only be properly done with special rotary compression test equipment at a Mazda dealer or other rotary specialist.
You need to know the true health of that engine. A rotary can seem to run fine, even with low compression, especially to someone who has never owned and/or driven a new rotary car.
Too often, these "bargain" used RX8 are really cars with a failing or failed rotary engine. It costs thousands for a good rebuild or replacement rotary engine.
After checking the engine compression you need to know the maintenance history of the car. Here is what to look for at specific mileage.
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
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Can anyone please tell me what this is hanging from the bottom of my car? This car isn't driven, the engine bay is being completely reworked. Thank you so much!
Can anyone please tell me what this is hanging from the bottom of my car? This car isn't driven, the engine bay is being completely reworked. Thank you so much!
First one is Oil metering pump position switch with the broken switch in it
Other 2 have broken off bits 2....just can't really tell what. Looks like fog light plug??
I was working on my driver side door amp based on a thread on here about how often times a relay is needed to be replaced and that's why the speakers in the front 2 doors don't make sound. And I soldered in the new relay put it back together and plugged it in and no sound plays at all anymore from any speaker at all. I'm thinking instead to just buy a new amp since I have a sub I've been wanting to install but do I need the original OEM amp replaced so sound can play again? Or can I just get by with buying a new amp for the sub and somehow get somebody to connect all the speakers through that one? Sorry I have no experience in audio work so I'm sorry if this is a dumb question, I've spent a lot of time trying to fix it.
I got an auxiliary cord from amazon and installed it in my 04 rx8. Everything worked fine after i installed it. The next day, i cant get into EX mode(aux) the cd button is not working and my FM radio looks like its not getting any signal but it usually does... Do you guys know what i can do to fix that?
So i was reading up on sohn adapter.
To the best of my understanding, it blocks your engine from combusting the engine oil and has a reservoir for 2t oil to combust.
My question is. Why use an adapter. When there are nipples (which are used in decarbing). They are probably the ones who suck oil from the chamber below the oil cap. So a single pipe coming from underneath the oil cap is split like a T, one arm going to each nipple. I think this is the the one suckling oil for combustion from engine.
So why not block the port on engine bay that the long arm of T is attached to and dip it in an oil can so it can slowly suck in oil when car runs. Wont this eliminate the need of a sohn adapter and will essentially work in similar manner ?
^ The engine has oil injectors, which atomize and introduce oil to specific places where it is needed for lubrication. Brute forcing oil through the service nipples would be much less precise at best.
Glad we have this thread :D can get away with dumb questions.
How does a sohn adapter come into play in this schemetic.
Since i am unable to my hands one in Pakistan and the custom duty will double its price. I was hoping to diy it somehow. If i get to know how exactly it performs.
Also we wont be blocking the oil to other parts. We will just introduce oil through service nipples to combust. So it will use that. Its kind of like premixing. No ?
Ok, my 'new' 2010 came with one switchblade key with integrated remote. The remote doesn't work, so the obvious first thing to do is to replace the battery, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to open it. There doesn't appear to be any indent or sliding piece or screw. What's the trick?
The case is solid hard plastic, not a piece of rubber on it anywhere as far as I can tell. Pics attached, if you think I'm wrong please tell me which corner to pry on.
11-08-2016, 11:33 PM
Do you need the original OEM door amp?
anyways ill race then ill get back to you!
