You used to have a 69 Charger? What happened to it?

69 Charger and 69 Chevelle are the hottest muscle cars imo

 

So I bought it for $300. and I got it running but it kept going out of tune (I later learned that the distributer shaft was "bent" ) and I had to use quick start to get it to fire up. I took this car across the country and only one car passed me the entire trip (interestingly enough it was a RX-7) pulled by me west of SLC- I was going bout 110 and he eased by at bout 125...
Anyways back to how the car left me...
I took a quick run from San Francisco to Reno and coming back on 80 (long uphill stretch going about 95ish) I enjoyed a nice loud "boom" and bits of motor and lots of oil was quickly spread across the road. By the way the car made it to the next exit and I sold it to the gas station owner as is where is for $500 and a ride to SF.

Never changed the oil in that beast either...just kept topping it up.

Boom,
Yogi

 

sigh

 

I feel utterly terrible for not being able to find this....

Is there an easier way to jack up the rear of the car instead of using the differential? As of now, with stock suspension, it's hard to get it in there, but I can imagine it is impossible if the car is lowered!

 

I thought that was pretty easy in the rear on mine.. Jack it up on the pinch welds or reverse it onto ramps

 

Id suggest a low profile jack, it can get under the lowest of the lowest of cars.

 

Thats P-Port Intakes, No one has tried P-Port exhaust since the Renesis's exhaust is quite restrictive?

I was following olddragers thread and he decided not to go with Rx7 housings. I Have heard of someone using fd block with the renesis front cover which seems like a great option other than the use of a standalone ECU to get it running. But all Acessories and everything was able to work still.

 

I read another thread of someone talking about that, but have no real idea WHERE that is...I know it's on the side of the car by the rear tires, I think?

 

If I had my RX8 still I'd take a picture and show you.. Its literally the whole side of your car, a little pinch weld along the whole side lol.

 

Wait, is it that little piece that sticks out away from the bottom? It looks like it bends so easy, I get scared trying to lift up on that! :O

 

That would be your pinch weld.. Dont worry about that lol. Its me that should worry when I'm trying to take off my rear windshield wiper and it wont even budge, and I'm trying to search and find out how to take it off, and some people have shattered their rear window trying to get it off, now I'm too scared

 

Are people still using/installing grounding kits? Haven't see any recent posts about them. My idle deffinitely gets worse with the AC on, I am thinking about buying one on ebay. Reading this old thread, it seems like they used to be a pretty popular mod

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/my-grounding-kit-results-84924/

 

Difference between Exoticspeed R1-t, S1-T and RII titan ?? Obviously they look different but how do they differ in sound ??

Ordering mine soon

 

OK so I LOVE this thread and I am learning all that I need to know about how to take care of and enjoy my RX8...

I have one more oil question for the group (it was embedded in one of my earlier pleadings)

Is it OK to wait until my car needs one quart of oil to top it up? I can read my dipstick now (thanks to this post) and I see that the first "dimple" means one half quart down and the second means one quart down.

Can I wait and just add a full quart?

Thank you all AGAIN!

Yogi

 

Yea, you can wait to top off... but why would you want to? If you check the oil, why not just top off if you know its not full?

However, I will say that checking the oil when hot can give you false readings. You do not want to overfill your oil... but you don't want to run it low.

Helpful? I didn't think so. . .

 

You are better off keeping it as close to the full level at all times...more oil is better up to that point

 

So far it seems like I need to try to hit the mythical "nearly full but not quite overfull be careful about checking when hot and or cold while on a level surface at the same time of day and the same compass orientation using the same coefficient of absorption towel-let)

So my new refined question is...

should I add when my stick shows 1/2 quart low or do I go with an eyedropper and a scale that measures the weight of the car in drops of oil mass?

Just want to get it right,

Yogi

PS All kidding aside should I go with 1/2 quart top ups or do I really need to try and keep it near full all the time?

Thanks again,
Yogi

 

How important is it to connect the "pcv" to the intake? (I know we don't have a crankcase.) I want to install a catch can. Was thinking about venting thru a small air filter and plugging the intake. I reason the air has already gone thru the intake , so it shouldn't effect the air fuel measurements (MAF).

 

no problem - unless you have an 06 or later . They have another connection from intake to 'crankcase' that needs to be blocked off if you fit a catch can .

 

I want to take my car to the track, in order to become a better driver. I am worried about what kind of wear I will be putting on the car, however. Besides the obvious things like tires and brakes, will there be any other areas of concern? I am mostly worried about the stress that the chassis and suspension will endure from the g-forces. I know our cars are very solid, but can someone give me a bit more insight about this? I want to be able to drive the car comfortably to school and work every day.

 

im not overly familiar with the rotary yet. does the extended warranty mazda issues 8 year 100k, does that cover most/all of the engine problems if something goes wrong? or is there still a huge gap of things it doesnt cover like most warrantys?

thx

 

it really only covers the engine internals, so if yrou engine has low compression they will replace it.

this is for the engine only, not anything else attached to the engine.

 

I've done some looking around and I can neither confirm nor denie the following.

Series II Seafoam procedure.
Where the hell do you hook the seafoam bottle too?
Apparently the nipples in the Series I model are not on the Series II model.
Can someone confirm this and explain where the seafoam bottle should be connected.
Thanks

 

I have no personal insight on this, but from what I've heard, some people regularly track / Auto-x their DD's without any issue in the suspension and chassis. I believe that's what this car was made to do...be a trackable daily.

Here's my question...#2!

I tried searching, but I kept getting irrelevant info. I could be searching for the wrong words. When driving on the highway, all is juuuust fine. But after a few hours on the road, I drop back down to city speeds, like when I stop to get gas, I stop the car at a stop sign. When going again, I get an insane shaking/clunking noise from what seems like the wheels. It ONLY happens after a long highway drive....it seems to have gotten better with these new tires, but it's still there. Kinda scary as hell. Anybody know what this is/have it too?

 

Yes, the car is built for it. It will not suffer any suspension or chassis harm from the g-forces of tracking or autocrossing.

The only things to watch for are brake wear (you should have alternate pads for the track anyway), tire wear, oil consumption, coil and wire degradation, oil breakdown from the heat, and coolant overflow. This is of course assuming you keep the shiny side up and the rubber bits on the pavement bits. All bets off if you start off-tracking it.

In contrast, you will find that your daily driving is harder on the suspension and chassis than the track. Road grime, road salt, wide temperature swings, pot holes, other drivers, pebbles beating up your oil coolers and A/C condenser, etc.... will hurt your car more than the track will.