Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#6226
Sicker than your average
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Colombo, Sri Lanka
Posts: 1,015
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
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13 Posts
Originally Posted by reni04
Thank you for the response. I found a N3H2-A starter in my parts bin and i am thinking this is a up graded starter because the original starter was N3H1. I had it tested a few moments ago and i will install it this spring or when th weather gets warm enough !. If it is an up graded it will tell after the car gets warm and i start it. I wanted so bad nto get to the bottom of this as i'm sure there are others with automatics. I realize however that most of the car owners here are manual We shall see. I was hoping for a definative answer but now thw question is " Is the N3H2-A an up graded starter. I think it is so i will report back so at least the N3H2-A can be known as an up graded starter. In was afraid to buy a 2009 for fear the confihuration might be slightly different causing fitment issues. I found this in my parts bin and i remember getting it from J&B enterprises when i instaled a transmission from them we shall see. I'm hope full. Thank you again !.
https://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/p/M...218400R0B.html
And here is the starter for S2 ATs
https://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/p/M...218400R00.html
N3H1 is for MT cars.
Last edited by Nisaja; 02-05-2017 at 11:45 PM.
#6227
Here is the updated starter for S1 ATs
https://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/p/M...218400R0B.html
And here is the starter for S2 ATs
https://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/p/M...218400R00.html
N3H1 is for MT cars.
https://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/p/M...218400R0B.html
And here is the starter for S2 ATs
https://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/p/M...218400R00.html
N3H1 is for MT cars.
Thank you for that valuable information !. I have a N3H2A in my parts bin and i will install it to see. I haven't pulled the old starter yet. i don't know what the original starter number is that's in the car from manufdacture ?. I tried reading it while installed with a mirror and i thought it said N3H1 but i guess i will see when i pull it. Thank you.
#6228
Sicker than your average
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Colombo, Sri Lanka
Posts: 1,015
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
13 Posts
Originally Posted by reni04
Thank you for that valuable information !. I have a N3H2A in my parts bin and i will install it to see. I haven't pulled the old starter yet. i don't know what the original starter number is that's in the car from manufdacture ?. I tried reading it while installed with a mirror and i thought it said N3H1 but i guess i will see when i pull it. Thank you.
#6229
Looking for shop to rebuild my engine.
I have a 2005 6spd that has low compression. I looked into a dealership engine and was quoted $7500 to replace it. They said the engine alone costs about 4k. I'm going to go the rebuild route and need a recommendation. I live in West Michigan. Looking for a shop in Michigan, Indiana, Ohio, or Illinois. Thanks for the help!
#6230
40th anniversary Edition
Some recommended rebuilders. might be some closer to you.
Black Halo Racing
RX-7 & RX-8 Performance
Pineapple Racing
Racing Beat - Mazda Performance Specialists
Rotary Performance
Rotary Resurrection
Black Halo Racing
RX-7 & RX-8 Performance
Pineapple Racing
Racing Beat - Mazda Performance Specialists
Rotary Performance
Rotary Resurrection
#6231
Registered
So, like an idiot, I purchased a navigation screen assembly without the dash cover/trim piece to go along with it. Been searching for one a couple hours now. Would anyone know where I could find the dash cover separately? (Besides a junkyard)
Edit: This is a 2005 with the flip up hood.
Edit: This is a 2005 with the flip up hood.
#6232
Sicker than your average
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Colombo, Sri Lanka
Posts: 1,015
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
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13 Posts
Originally Posted by Reoze
So, like an idiot, I purchased a navigation screen assembly without the dash cover/trim piece to go along with it. Been searching for one a couple hours now. Would anyone know where I could find the dash cover separately? (Besides a junkyard)
Edit: This is a 2005 with the flip up hood.
Edit: This is a 2005 with the flip up hood.
#6233
Registered
That's what I assumed, but it did not. It was sold as a "screen assembly". Probably should've looked at the picture
2004 Mazda RX-8 FE0166DV0 Navigation Screen
2004 Mazda RX-8 FE0166DV0 Navigation Screen
#6234
Anyone know why grease/oil is collecting outside under my airfilter???
See images
Few other things
Also I know this car rides low to the ground after having it for years but if I hit a small pot hole it sounds like bolts are coming lose WHEN at the time I hit the pothole, not after. May its just me but I dont think a car should sound like that when hitting a pothole even though it can be an insane sound when hitting a pot hole in general. Meanwhile I had two mechanics check and to see any play and there was none.
Any tips for cleaning between the corner sides of the trunk/skylight area?
Last question anyone know with respect to the interior of the trunk which electrical connections are there? I know a broad question, My trunk has bad weather stripping, I just ordered a new one to prevent any water from getting in for the near future but my car seat warmers are not working properly or at all but the lights go on. Just curious if they electrical wiring goes to the trunk and which other connections that are major connected back there besides the connections for the tail lights.
Thanks in advance!
See images
Few other things
Also I know this car rides low to the ground after having it for years but if I hit a small pot hole it sounds like bolts are coming lose WHEN at the time I hit the pothole, not after. May its just me but I dont think a car should sound like that when hitting a pothole even though it can be an insane sound when hitting a pot hole in general. Meanwhile I had two mechanics check and to see any play and there was none.
Any tips for cleaning between the corner sides of the trunk/skylight area?
Last question anyone know with respect to the interior of the trunk which electrical connections are there? I know a broad question, My trunk has bad weather stripping, I just ordered a new one to prevent any water from getting in for the near future but my car seat warmers are not working properly or at all but the lights go on. Just curious if they electrical wiring goes to the trunk and which other connections that are major connected back there besides the connections for the tail lights.
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 02-20-2017 at 09:45 AM.
#6236
#6237
Registered
I wanted a "spare" short block to get rebuilt in anticipation of blowing my current one. Seems as if the going rate for these is about $500-600. On the other hand, it looks like I could piece the major components together fairly easily. cover, housings, e-shaft, rotors, etc while buying brand new seals, dowels, etc. For roughly the same price.
Which would end up being a better idea in the end? Is there any advantage to having "matching" rotor housings for an engine? Or could you safely piece together any combination of RX8 covers/housings/rotors from different vehicles? Granted they're within spec. It seems as if I might have much better luck buying good housings to begin with rather than rebuild an unknown. Then having to buy new housings anyway. On the other hand it seems like sending boxes of parts to builders is pretty frowned upon.
Which would end up being a better idea in the end? Is there any advantage to having "matching" rotor housings for an engine? Or could you safely piece together any combination of RX8 covers/housings/rotors from different vehicles? Granted they're within spec. It seems as if I might have much better luck buying good housings to begin with rather than rebuild an unknown. Then having to buy new housings anyway. On the other hand it seems like sending boxes of parts to builders is pretty frowned upon.
#6238
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
I wanted a "spare" short block to get rebuilt in anticipation of blowing my current one. Seems as if the going rate for these is about $500-600. On the other hand, it looks like I could piece the major components together fairly easily. cover, housings, e-shaft, rotors, etc while buying brand new seals, dowels, etc. For roughly the same price.
Which would end up being a better idea in the end? Is there any advantage to having "matching" rotor housings for an engine? Or could you safely piece together any combination of RX8 covers/housings/rotors from different vehicles? Granted they're within spec. It seems as if I might have much better luck buying good housings to begin with rather than rebuild an unknown. Then having to buy new housings anyway. On the other hand it seems like sending boxes of parts to builders is pretty frowned upon.
Which would end up being a better idea in the end? Is there any advantage to having "matching" rotor housings for an engine? Or could you safely piece together any combination of RX8 covers/housings/rotors from different vehicles? Granted they're within spec. It seems as if I might have much better luck buying good housings to begin with rather than rebuild an unknown. Then having to buy new housings anyway. On the other hand it seems like sending boxes of parts to builders is pretty frowned upon.
Not sure how you figure that...no way you can buy all the parts even used for $5-600....
A collection of parts will work perfectly fine if they are spec'd out and everything is within tolerances. You need matching rotor weights and really the rest is a no brainer.
#6239
Registered
I guess I could've worded that better. I definitely understand even a set of decent housings can cost more than $500. After rebuilding a junkyard engine, chances are I'd have to buy a set of new housings among other things though.
So at that point does it really make sense to spend $500 on a half dozen potentially crap parts? Or would it be better to try to intelligently piece it together over time?
It seems as if the rotors themselves are pretty indestructible (correct me if I'm wrong). So perhaps a $500 gamble does make more sense in the end? With a hope that something beyond the rotors are salvageable?
So at that point does it really make sense to spend $500 on a half dozen potentially crap parts? Or would it be better to try to intelligently piece it together over time?
It seems as if the rotors themselves are pretty indestructible (correct me if I'm wrong). So perhaps a $500 gamble does make more sense in the end? With a hope that something beyond the rotors are salvageable?
Last edited by Reoze; 02-20-2017 at 11:14 PM.
#6240
Maybe by next winter the brake pads IF I am not forced to sell it.
Sorry for this being long.
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 02-26-2017 at 06:40 AM.
#6241
Need help
I just bought a RX8 a week ago I've always wanted one and I finally found one! But I'm already having issues It starts rough about 3 4 seconds befor it fires up. I live in nh so it's cold here but it also blows white smoke I didn't start it for a week when I went to drive it it wouldn't start when I finally got it started a half hour later it shot out enough wight smoke to fill my whole street. It still runs fine but it just threw a check engin light. The coolant level isn't going down the oil is good idk what's going on with this car but I'm very worried as I just spent a good amount of money picking it up. It has 134K on it. Is there anything else it could be besides a coolant seal leak?
#6242
Hey guys I just bought a Rx8 it ran fine tell I let it sit for a week when I went to start it took me a half hour to get it going when she fired up she blew enough whit smoke to fill my whole street. What causes this? The coolant level is good the oil level is a little high.
#6243
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
it will smoke a little if it sat for a while. how old is the ignition? hows the battery/what starter? did you get it comp tested? what do the plugs look like? sounds like you didnt research these cars at all.
go read all the new owners stickies on this forum
go read all the new owners stickies on this forum
#6244
Too old for PC
Hard starting, stumbling on initial cold start, "white smoke"...steam, are all signs of coolant seal failure. Any sweet odor to the exhaust? Crank or VERY briefly start the car and then shut it down. Pull leading plug and check for coolant smell. Check your overflow bottle level for being over-full and/or have your cooling system pressure tested.
It does sound like a failed seal.
It does sound like a failed seal.
#6245
Registered
I've been trying for a couple of days now to find the specifications of the flange nut that screws into the front of the air box tray. I can't seem to find it in the service manual or the diagrams from onlinemazdaparts.
Tried eyeballing a few from the hardware store but the thread patterns weren't lining up. Where could I find information like this? Searching for "air tray flange nut" and variations of that come up with a bunch of crap.
Tried eyeballing a few from the hardware store but the thread patterns weren't lining up. Where could I find information like this? Searching for "air tray flange nut" and variations of that come up with a bunch of crap.
#6246
White Smoke of Death?
Question about white smoke...
I have an 05 with 130k on body and 8k on engine. I've owned it for more than six months and it has been my daily driver.
The other day I took it out for a nice curvy road sunday drive, and I was getting on the gas a little (not red lining or pushing the engine to its limits).
Then I come to a light and make a right turn and get up to speed. As I get up to speed, I see white smoke billowing out of my tailpipe. I pulled over and coolant was green, not brown, and engine oil was fine. The smoke out of the tailpipe smelled kind of sweet though.
I drove it for another 8 or so minutes in town to get it home and it barely smoked after I got it back on the road for a minute or two.
I started it up the next day and it billowed large amounts of smoke again upon start up, then stopped after a minute or so of idling.
I started it up a few days later after not driving it for a couple days, and very very little amounts of white smoke came out (barely visible) so I decided to drive it and see how the smoke reacted.
I got on the gas after warming the engine and no smoke came out.
Now I see this as good news, but everything ive seen says white smoke is a bad sign for the rotary. Does anyone have any idea what it could be? Engine power is still 100%, and it just seems the more I drive it the less it smokes, but If the engine is toast, I don't want to break it any more than it already is.
Thanks!
I have an 05 with 130k on body and 8k on engine. I've owned it for more than six months and it has been my daily driver.
The other day I took it out for a nice curvy road sunday drive, and I was getting on the gas a little (not red lining or pushing the engine to its limits).
Then I come to a light and make a right turn and get up to speed. As I get up to speed, I see white smoke billowing out of my tailpipe. I pulled over and coolant was green, not brown, and engine oil was fine. The smoke out of the tailpipe smelled kind of sweet though.
I drove it for another 8 or so minutes in town to get it home and it barely smoked after I got it back on the road for a minute or two.
I started it up the next day and it billowed large amounts of smoke again upon start up, then stopped after a minute or so of idling.
I started it up a few days later after not driving it for a couple days, and very very little amounts of white smoke came out (barely visible) so I decided to drive it and see how the smoke reacted.
I got on the gas after warming the engine and no smoke came out.
Now I see this as good news, but everything ive seen says white smoke is a bad sign for the rotary. Does anyone have any idea what it could be? Engine power is still 100%, and it just seems the more I drive it the less it smokes, but If the engine is toast, I don't want to break it any more than it already is.
Thanks!
#6247
Too old for PC
I've been trying for a couple of days now to find the specifications of the flange nut that screws into the front of the air box tray. I can't seem to find it in the service manual or the diagrams from onlinemazdaparts.
Tried eyeballing a few from the hardware store but the thread patterns weren't lining up. Where could I find information like this? Searching for "air tray flange nut" and variations of that come up with a bunch of crap.
Tried eyeballing a few from the hardware store but the thread patterns weren't lining up. Where could I find information like this? Searching for "air tray flange nut" and variations of that come up with a bunch of crap.
Last edited by Signal 2; 03-08-2017 at 03:10 PM.
#6248
2005 rx8 6 speed I did a very aggressive launch and spun my tires for a good minute afterwards my dcs and traction control lights wouldn't go off eventually the dcs light went off however the traction one has been on for close to a year I tried the whole turning the key and wheel and cranking it procedure a dozen times to no avail what gives
#6249
P1688 fix?
Looking for someone who can fix?
I am looking for a solution to the above problem (Fault P1688).
I am told, as the car is not driven frequently, it is unlikely to need a replacement (oil pump). Instead the part requires removal, a switch needs turning to zero and then the part is refitted. This solves the P1688 problem.
Is there anyone who can carry out this work (2-3 hours) in or around North London area? If so please contact me to discuss and agree cost of work.
Thanks
Steve
Mob: 07958 601601
I am looking for a solution to the above problem (Fault P1688).
I am told, as the car is not driven frequently, it is unlikely to need a replacement (oil pump). Instead the part requires removal, a switch needs turning to zero and then the part is refitted. This solves the P1688 problem.
Is there anyone who can carry out this work (2-3 hours) in or around North London area? If so please contact me to discuss and agree cost of work.
Thanks
Steve
Mob: 07958 601601
#6250
I am looking for a solution to a fault (P1688 oil pump). I am assured this requires the removal of the pump and resetting 'back to zero' then the part is refitted and the problem is solved.
Unfortunately I have the fault but not the know-how.
I am looking ofr someone who can carry out the work required in the North London area? If you can help please contact me.
Steve Douglas
Mob: 07958 601601
Unfortunately I have the fault but not the know-how.
I am looking ofr someone who can carry out the work required in the North London area? If you can help please contact me.
Steve Douglas
Mob: 07958 601601