Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#6753
![CO](https://www.rx8club.com/images/icons/co.jpg)
I have a new problem however , I removed the cross member away from the start6er and got all but the top 12 mm bolt out of the starter and wouldn't ya know it the last bolt of three is stripped and I can't use the 12mm wrench at all it is slipping and rounding out the bolt. Do you know of a tool to get torq on that last bolt ?. I huess I am relegated to going to the repair shop and have them change the strter but it is so frustrating to be only one lousy bolt away from success. I will have to return the starter I bought and pay too much for the shops starter. FRUSTRATING !.
#6754
Smoking turbo yay
If you have an imperial socket set, you could find something that's barely too small to fit on the bolt when it's cold. Heat the socket up, fit it onto the bolt, and wait for it to cool. Of course, this requires the bolt to be not too rounded.
#6755
Smoking turbo yay
Here is a question for fellow S2 owners who have a sunroof on their 8:
When you tilt up(not open) the sunroof, how much does it tilt up? Mine barely tilts up. When I open my sunroof entirely, it tilts up quite a bit more and slides.
When you tilt up(not open) the sunroof, how much does it tilt up? Mine barely tilts up. When I open my sunroof entirely, it tilts up quite a bit more and slides.
#6756
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
My S2 tilts up at least 35mm (roof to lower sunroof height).
#6757
Registered
I think everyone on this RX8club has decided to premix for engine insurance.
I was running 1 oz/gallon on a track day, and changed plugs there.
I'm still running some Mobil 2t that's smokeless, and maybe similar to what you have.
They were clean enough not to even need changing, since it was a loose wire that got me to do it.
Plugs had 30k on them in a 6speed auto, so I got money's worth.
We are late going to Bandung, but be there Jan 18th to April 2.
Bring your family (any of them), and that engineering marvel (RX8) over if you can.
I was running 1 oz/gallon on a track day, and changed plugs there.
I'm still running some Mobil 2t that's smokeless, and maybe similar to what you have.
They were clean enough not to even need changing, since it was a loose wire that got me to do it.
Plugs had 30k on them in a 6speed auto, so I got money's worth.
We are late going to Bandung, but be there Jan 18th to April 2.
Bring your family (any of them), and that engineering marvel (RX8) over if you can.
Stay safe, see u soon Darrell!! Regards to ur family!
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Okki-Jakarta (01-08-2018)
#6760
Alright, guys. I'm not sure if this question has ever been completely answered or not, but what is the life expectancy for the BHR midpipe with the Catalytic converter installed? I am looking into replacing my Cat with the BHR midpipe but I am on the fence of whether I should purchase the midpipe with or without the Cat. My Check engine light has currently gone off and the code is P0420. I am aware that this is because the Catalytic converter has most likely gone bad. I have changed the O2 sensor and have changed the Air pump as well as the Coils, wires, and plugs since I had a codes going off for those as well. My emissions test is coming up for Feb and that CEL needs to go, for obvious reasons, and the plan is to change the Cat. I am planning on either getting a cheap aftermarket Cat to swap with the OEM for Emissions and then swapping that with the BHR midpipe because of the benefits of running a Catless exhaust.
I guess the real question is should I continue with finding a cheap aftermarket in order to pass emissions and install the catless BHR afterwards, or should I just go ahead and purchase the BHR midpipe with the cat?
My worry is that the cat that is pre-installed into the BHR midpipe will not last long and I would be in the same predicament as I am now... also I would really love to hear that engine breath without the restriction as well as the added benefit of seeing some flames shoot out the back!
Thank you in advance to anyone that will answer my question!
I guess the real question is should I continue with finding a cheap aftermarket in order to pass emissions and install the catless BHR afterwards, or should I just go ahead and purchase the BHR midpipe with the cat?
My worry is that the cat that is pre-installed into the BHR midpipe will not last long and I would be in the same predicament as I am now... also I would really love to hear that engine breath without the restriction as well as the added benefit of seeing some flames shoot out the back!
Thank you in advance to anyone that will answer my question!
#6761
Smoking turbo yay
Alright, guys. I'm not sure if this question has ever been completely answered or not, but what is the life expectancy for the BHR midpipe with the Catalytic converter installed? I am looking into replacing my Cat with the BHR midpipe but I am on the fence of whether I should purchase the midpipe with or without the Cat. My Check engine light has currently gone off and the code is P0420. I am aware that this is because the Catalytic converter has most likely gone bad. I have changed the O2 sensor and have changed the Air pump as well as the Coils, wires, and plugs since I had a codes going off for those as well. My emissions test is coming up for Feb and that CEL needs to go, for obvious reasons, and the plan is to change the Cat. I am planning on either getting a cheap aftermarket Cat to swap with the OEM for Emissions and then swapping that with the BHR midpipe because of the benefits of running a Catless exhaust.
I guess the real question is should I continue with finding a cheap aftermarket in order to pass emissions and install the catless BHR afterwards, or should I just go ahead and purchase the BHR midpipe with the cat?
My worry is that the cat that is pre-installed into the BHR midpipe will not last long and I would be in the same predicament as I am now... also I would really love to hear that engine breath without the restriction as well as the added benefit of seeing some flames shoot out the back!
Thank you in advance to anyone that will answer my question!
I guess the real question is should I continue with finding a cheap aftermarket in order to pass emissions and install the catless BHR afterwards, or should I just go ahead and purchase the BHR midpipe with the cat?
My worry is that the cat that is pre-installed into the BHR midpipe will not last long and I would be in the same predicament as I am now... also I would really love to hear that engine breath without the restriction as well as the added benefit of seeing some flames shoot out the back!
Thank you in advance to anyone that will answer my question!
The ceramic cat that BHR offers, like they said, won't stand up to track abuse.
What's your budget? Getting a cheap cat + a cheap mid-pipe just for the sake of inspection could cost you about US$400. If you have a bigger budget, you could just get a HJS Tuning cat and get it welded to the BHR mid-pipe. The HJS cat is very good and will stand up to even track use, eliminating the need to swap the cat for the inspection.
Check out the Classified section as well. You may find a cheap OEM cat there.
#6762
Running catless gives you flames and minimal resistance, but for some people, that smell gets sick quick and it may also damage your rear bumper paint.
The ceramic cat that BHR offers, like they said, won't stand up to track abuse.
What's your budget? Getting a cheap cat + a cheap mid-pipe just for the sake of inspection could cost you about US$400. If you have a bigger budget, you could just get a HJS Tuning cat and get it welded to the BHR mid-pipe. The HJS cat is very good and will stand up to even track use, eliminating the need to swap the cat for the inspection.
Check out the Classified section as well. You may find a cheap OEM cat there.
The ceramic cat that BHR offers, like they said, won't stand up to track abuse.
What's your budget? Getting a cheap cat + a cheap mid-pipe just for the sake of inspection could cost you about US$400. If you have a bigger budget, you could just get a HJS Tuning cat and get it welded to the BHR mid-pipe. The HJS cat is very good and will stand up to even track use, eliminating the need to swap the cat for the inspection.
Check out the Classified section as well. You may find a cheap OEM cat there.
Thanks for the quick reply! I thought it was going to be days before anyone replied lol
#6763
Registered
iTrader: (1)
A clogged/damaged cat can certainly speed up engine failure, and a cat that isn't there can't clog. But has anyone actually demonstrated that catless cars run longer than cars with good cats?
Ditto with coils and the Sohn. Yes, failed coils and bad oil injection can wreck an engine. But has anyone demonstrated that BHR coils and Sohn adapters can extend engine life vs. fully functioning and well maintained stock coils and oil systems?
I'd love to see the data if anyone has it, but I'm not holding my breath.
If it were my S1 on that budget, I'd skip the Sohn and BHR kit, and just get the cheapest cat that could withstand RX-8 EGTs.
Ditto with coils and the Sohn. Yes, failed coils and bad oil injection can wreck an engine. But has anyone demonstrated that BHR coils and Sohn adapters can extend engine life vs. fully functioning and well maintained stock coils and oil systems?
I'd love to see the data if anyone has it, but I'm not holding my breath.
If it were my S1 on that budget, I'd skip the Sohn and BHR kit, and just get the cheapest cat that could withstand RX-8 EGTs.
Last edited by IamFodi; 01-11-2018 at 07:59 AM.
#6764
A clogged/damaged cat can certainly speed up engine failure, and a cat that isn't there can't clog. But has anyone actually demonstrated that catless cars run longer than cars with good cats?
Ditto with coils and the Sohn. Yes, failed coils and bad oil injection can wreck and engine. But has anyone demonstrated that BHR coils and Sohn adapters can extend engine life vs. fully functioning and well maintained stock coils and oil systems?
I'd love to see the data if anyone has it, but I'm not holding my breath.
If it were my S1 on that budget, I'd skip the Sohn and BHR kit, and just get the cheapest cat that could withstand RX-8 EGTs.
Ditto with coils and the Sohn. Yes, failed coils and bad oil injection can wreck and engine. But has anyone demonstrated that BHR coils and Sohn adapters can extend engine life vs. fully functioning and well maintained stock coils and oil systems?
I'd love to see the data if anyone has it, but I'm not holding my breath.
If it were my S1 on that budget, I'd skip the Sohn and BHR kit, and just get the cheapest cat that could withstand RX-8 EGTs.
BHR coils provide a stronger and more reliable spark than stock coils do. The SOHN adapter provides fresh 2 stroke oil to the engine that is easier to be burned and provides some extra lubrication.
I mean I'm sure you know all of this already, and I really don't mean to be condescending, but I typed all that out in case someone new to Rx-8 reads through our posts.
In my opinion, the combination of those mods and upgrades could definately improve the life of the engine and provide us with a healthier and more reliable car. I can't prove to you that these mods do in fact improve the life of the Wankel but it helps me sleep better at night knowing that I at least did something to prolong its lifespan. I've also gone through the need of a whole engine rebuild and I want to avoid that for as long as possible.
Sorry for typing so much. I took a little too much adderall and got carried away.
#6765
Registered
iTrader: (1)
I can't provide you with the data but there is good reason to believe that both the sohn adapter and a set of BHR coils can lengthen the life of the Wankel. Coils that can provide a stronger spark and can withstand the rpms that the wankel cycles at provides a cleaner, more efficient burn. That's less carbon build up and residue left in the engine so that leaves a smoother surface for the seals to slide against. Wankels also burn oil that isn't meant to be burned during combustion and that burnt oil leaves behind sticky, gunky, residue that can also damage the seals. That same oil is also cycled through the engine and dumped back into the oil pan only to be sucked back up and reused further risking carbon build up.
This is different from an idea being demonstrated, i.e. actually shown to work in practice. Hypotheses turn out to be wrong all the time, so the only way to know is by testing them. In this case, that'd mean something like taking a bunch of RX-8s in similar condition, putting BHR coils and/or Sohn adapters on only some of them, driving them all similarly, seeing how long they all run, and then doing a bit of math to see if there are significant differences. As far as I can tell, no one has even attempted that.
Also, while they certainly seem to last longer than early Mazda coils, there seems to be no good info on whether they last longer than the latest Mazda coil revision.
Some are MUCH easier to burn, to the point that less would stick around long enough to do a good job lubricating the seals. Others have flash points comparable to very high-end synthetic oils, which might mean they'd be harder to burn than most engine oils.
And of course, let's not forget that 2-stroke oils are designed to be mixed with fuel, which they wouldn't be if injected through the MOP.
Again, I agree that it all seems completely plausible, and I share your feeling that it should work. But the only way to know whether it does work is to actually test it in a rigorous way, which no one seems to have done. Hope someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
In my opinion, the combination of those mods and upgrades could definately improve the life of the engine and provide us with a healthier and more reliable car. I can't prove to you that these mods do in fact improve the life of the Wankel but it helps me sleep better at night knowing that I at least did something to prolong its lifespan. I've also gone through the need of a whole engine rebuild and I want to avoid that for as long as possible.
No need to apologize. This is what a forum is for.
Last edited by IamFodi; 01-11-2018 at 08:01 AM.
#6766
Registered
iTrader: (1)
In the absence of a research facility, I feel like we have everything we need to do such a longitudinal study on this forum. In fact I think there was an attempt made a few years ago. All of us know our driving habits and parts replacement history. My BHR coils for instance, are 90,000km and 8 years old and compression tests are performed annually.
It's going to be self-reported and there isn't a huge control group of people who don't have any mods and stay on the forum long, but its worth a shot.
To the original question about the cat, get the HJS one and weld it into whatever you want. Buying temporary cats is lighting money on fire. And don't drive the car if you can help it until the cat is happy.
It's going to be self-reported and there isn't a huge control group of people who don't have any mods and stay on the forum long, but its worth a shot.
To the original question about the cat, get the HJS one and weld it into whatever you want. Buying temporary cats is lighting money on fire. And don't drive the car if you can help it until the cat is happy.
#6767
The technical term for all of this is a "hypothesis" -- i.e. a reasonable idea about what might happen based on facts and some basic logic.
This is different from an idea being demonstrated, i.e. actually shown to work in practice. Hypotheses turn out to be wrong all the time, so the only way to know is by testing them. In this case, that'd mean something like taking a bunch of RX-8s in similar condition, putting BHR coils and/or Sohn adapters on only some of them, driving them all similarly, seeing how long they all run, and then doing a bit of math to see if there are significant differences. As far as I can tell, no one has even attempted that.
Not with stock dwell times. Are you planning to tweak those?
Also, while they certainly seem to last longer than early Mazda coils, there seems to be no good info on whether they last longer than the latest Mazda coil revision.
Yes and no, and the yes comes with caveats....
Some are MUCH easier to burn, to the point that less would stick around long enough to do a good job lubricating the seals. Others have flash points comparable to very high-end synthetic oils, which might mean they'd be harder to burn than most engine oils.
And of course, let's not forget that 2-stroke oils are designed to be mixed with fuel, which they wouldn't be if injected through the MOP.
Again, I agree that it all seems completely plausible, and I share your feeling that it should work. But the only way to know whether it does work is to actually test it in a rigorous way, which no one seems to have done. Hope someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
Okay, this is different. If what you're really going after is that warm fuzzy feeling, that's your call. Whether it's worth the money, time, and extra variables (e.g. new failure points introduced, having to keep a 2-stroke tank topped off at all times, etc.) is up to you.
No need to apologize. This is what a forum is for.
This is different from an idea being demonstrated, i.e. actually shown to work in practice. Hypotheses turn out to be wrong all the time, so the only way to know is by testing them. In this case, that'd mean something like taking a bunch of RX-8s in similar condition, putting BHR coils and/or Sohn adapters on only some of them, driving them all similarly, seeing how long they all run, and then doing a bit of math to see if there are significant differences. As far as I can tell, no one has even attempted that.
Not with stock dwell times. Are you planning to tweak those?
Also, while they certainly seem to last longer than early Mazda coils, there seems to be no good info on whether they last longer than the latest Mazda coil revision.
Yes and no, and the yes comes with caveats....
Some are MUCH easier to burn, to the point that less would stick around long enough to do a good job lubricating the seals. Others have flash points comparable to very high-end synthetic oils, which might mean they'd be harder to burn than most engine oils.
And of course, let's not forget that 2-stroke oils are designed to be mixed with fuel, which they wouldn't be if injected through the MOP.
Again, I agree that it all seems completely plausible, and I share your feeling that it should work. But the only way to know whether it does work is to actually test it in a rigorous way, which no one seems to have done. Hope someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
Okay, this is different. If what you're really going after is that warm fuzzy feeling, that's your call. Whether it's worth the money, time, and extra variables (e.g. new failure points introduced, having to keep a 2-stroke tank topped off at all times, etc.) is up to you.
No need to apologize. This is what a forum is for.
Really I agree with everything you've had to say. Everything has its pro's and con's and a lot of what floats around the Rotary community doesn't really have much data to support its claims. The only point of reference that we have is that of the feedback that people give in this community regarding these modifications. I myself would much rather see some sort of data charts just as you probably would.
Wow.... I feel like some type of keyboard warrior typing away lol all I wanted was some advice on whether I should buy the BHR with or without the Cat.
#6768
The technical term for all of this is a "hypothesis" -- i.e. a reasonable idea about what might happen based on facts and some basic logic.
This is different from an idea being demonstrated, i.e. actually shown to work in practice. Hypotheses turn out to be wrong all the time, so the only way to know is by testing them. In this case, that'd mean something like taking a bunch of RX-8s in similar condition, putting BHR coils and/or Sohn adapters on only some of them, driving them all similarly, seeing how long they all run, and then doing a bit of math to see if there are significant differences. As far as I can tell, no one has even attempted that.
Not with stock dwell times. Are you planning to tweak those?
Also, while they certainly seem to last longer than early Mazda coils, there seems to be no good info on whether they last longer than the latest Mazda coil revision.
Yes and no, and the yes comes with caveats....
Some are MUCH easier to burn, to the point that less would stick around long enough to do a good job lubricating the seals. Others have flash points comparable to very high-end synthetic oils, which might mean they'd be harder to burn than most engine oils.
And of course, let's not forget that 2-stroke oils are designed to be mixed with fuel, which they wouldn't be if injected through the MOP.
Again, I agree that it all seems completely plausible, and I share your feeling that it should work. But the only way to know whether it does work is to actually test it in a rigorous way, which no one seems to have done. Hope someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
Okay, this is different. If what you're really going after is that warm fuzzy feeling, that's your call. Whether it's worth the money, time, and extra variables (e.g. new failure points introduced, having to keep a 2-stroke tank topped off at all times, etc.) is up to you.
No need to apologize. This is what a forum is for.
This is different from an idea being demonstrated, i.e. actually shown to work in practice. Hypotheses turn out to be wrong all the time, so the only way to know is by testing them. In this case, that'd mean something like taking a bunch of RX-8s in similar condition, putting BHR coils and/or Sohn adapters on only some of them, driving them all similarly, seeing how long they all run, and then doing a bit of math to see if there are significant differences. As far as I can tell, no one has even attempted that.
Not with stock dwell times. Are you planning to tweak those?
Also, while they certainly seem to last longer than early Mazda coils, there seems to be no good info on whether they last longer than the latest Mazda coil revision.
Yes and no, and the yes comes with caveats....
Some are MUCH easier to burn, to the point that less would stick around long enough to do a good job lubricating the seals. Others have flash points comparable to very high-end synthetic oils, which might mean they'd be harder to burn than most engine oils.
And of course, let's not forget that 2-stroke oils are designed to be mixed with fuel, which they wouldn't be if injected through the MOP.
Again, I agree that it all seems completely plausible, and I share your feeling that it should work. But the only way to know whether it does work is to actually test it in a rigorous way, which no one seems to have done. Hope someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
Okay, this is different. If what you're really going after is that warm fuzzy feeling, that's your call. Whether it's worth the money, time, and extra variables (e.g. new failure points introduced, having to keep a 2-stroke tank topped off at all times, etc.) is up to you.
No need to apologize. This is what a forum is for.
In the absence of a research facility, I feel like we have everything we need to do such a longitudinal study on this forum. In fact I think there was an attempt made a few years ago. All of us know our driving habits and parts replacement history. My BHR coils for instance, are 90,000km and 8 years old and compression tests are performed annually.
It's going to be self-reported and there isn't a huge control group of people who don't have any mods and stay on the forum long, but its worth a shot.
To the original question about the cat, get the HJS one and weld it into whatever you want. Buying temporary cats is lighting money on fire. And don't drive the car if you can help it until the cat is happy.
It's going to be self-reported and there isn't a huge control group of people who don't have any mods and stay on the forum long, but its worth a shot.
To the original question about the cat, get the HJS one and weld it into whatever you want. Buying temporary cats is lighting money on fire. And don't drive the car if you can help it until the cat is happy.
#6769
SPOOLN8
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I can't speak for the BHR Cat, but I've had the BHR midpipe and coils on for almost 8 years and 50,000+ Kms of boosted Renny greatness without any issues to either product. If I did require a cat it would be the ONLY the HJS with BHR midpipe... just my opinion.
As for the SOHN adapter, I don't run one. I do pre-mix about 4-6oz of Idemitsu every 2-3 tanks of fuel (I don't premix if I know I am not going to be driving the car HARD). I do have my MOP rates upped by my tuner as well. IMO the SOHN to me is exactly as stated above, just a warm fuzzy feeling as there is no data to support any improvements on engine life.
So far, this combination as worked fantastic for me...
As for the SOHN adapter, I don't run one. I do pre-mix about 4-6oz of Idemitsu every 2-3 tanks of fuel (I don't premix if I know I am not going to be driving the car HARD). I do have my MOP rates upped by my tuner as well. IMO the SOHN to me is exactly as stated above, just a warm fuzzy feeling as there is no data to support any improvements on engine life.
So far, this combination as worked fantastic for me...
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 01-11-2018 at 10:11 AM.
#6770
Smoking turbo yay
HJS cat is about $700~800 shipped. May take a while since you have to source one from Germany. A BHR mid-pipe welded to it will cost you $1300~1400.
There isn't much you can do to the factory cat. HJS "Martini shaker" is a lot shorter than the OEM elements, so it won't fit.
There isn't much you can do to the factory cat. HJS "Martini shaker" is a lot shorter than the OEM elements, so it won't fit.
#6771
40th anniversary Edition
I stand by the BHR coils (mine have 50,000 miles on them and still run strong). No one really has seen the end date for them, so I would venture to say they will last longer than any OEM Mazda coils have proven to date. I know of C-Coils having to be replaced by my dealer. I asked. When I first bought my BHR coils, my dealer installed them for me, and even their chief mechanic (a former mazdaspeed guy) knew of their reputation and endorsed my purchase.
Any coil can be defective, and there have been a few BHR coils that were bad ,out of the box, and Charles promptly replaced them. But not much chatter here on them wearing out before the cars died.
I dare say the BHR coils are the most bought , most tested and proven, with the most RX8 miles driven of any single RX8 aftermarket product available, period.
Any coil can be defective, and there have been a few BHR coils that were bad ,out of the box, and Charles promptly replaced them. But not much chatter here on them wearing out before the cars died.
I dare say the BHR coils are the most bought , most tested and proven, with the most RX8 miles driven of any single RX8 aftermarket product available, period.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 01-11-2018 at 09:39 PM.
#6772
Registered
iTrader: (1)
I stand by the BHR coils (mine have 50,000 miles on them and still run strong). No one really has seen the end date for them, so I would venture to say they will last longer than any OEM Mazda coils have proven to date. I know of C-Coils having to be replaced by my dealer. I asked. When I first bought my BHR coils, my dealer installed them for me, and even their chief mechanic (a former mazdaspeed guy) knew of their reputation and endorsed my purchase.
Any coil can be defective, and there have been a few BHR coils that were bad ,out of the box, and Charles promptly replaced them. But not much chatter here on them wearing out before the cars died.
I dare say the BHR coils are the most bought , most tested and proven, with the most RX8 miles driven of any single RX8 aftermarket product available, period.
Any coil can be defective, and there have been a few BHR coils that were bad ,out of the box, and Charles promptly replaced them. But not much chatter here on them wearing out before the cars died.
I dare say the BHR coils are the most bought , most tested and proven, with the most RX8 miles driven of any single RX8 aftermarket product available, period.
What that would mean is that the coils themselves last longer than Mazda coils. Which is good! Definitely a benefit. Time and money saver, removes one failure point, etc.
It wouldn't say anything about how long the engine lasts with BHR coils vs. with new OE rev. C coils, especially if the OE coils are changed preventively every 30k miles. I can see that comparison panning out either way, or being a wash. We just don't know without a lot of data.
In other words, it would mean BHR coils are a good way to simplify maintenance and save money in the long term (60k+ miles). It wouldn't answer the question of whether they extend the life of the engine vs. regularly replaced rev. C coils. That was my point.
You know what I mean, right?
#6773
What am I doing here?
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
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HJS cat is about $700~800 shipped. May take a while since you have to source one from Germany. A BHR mid-pipe welded to it will cost you $1300~1400.
There isn't much you can do to the factory cat. HJS "Martini shaker" is a lot shorter than the OEM elements, so it won't fit.
There isn't much you can do to the factory cat. HJS "Martini shaker" is a lot shorter than the OEM elements, so it won't fit.
#6774
Assuming these coils really do last longer than rev. C coils, and that we're not dealing with some kind of sampling bias here...
What that would mean is that the coils themselves last longer than Mazda coils. Which is good! Definitely a benefit. Time and money saver, removes one failure point, etc.
It wouldn't say anything about how long the engine lasts with BHR coils vs. with new OE rev. C coils, especially if the OE coils are changed preventively every 30k miles. I can see that comparison panning out either way, or being a wash. We just don't know without a lot of data.
In other words, it would mean BHR coils are a good way to simplify maintenance and save money in the long term (60k+ miles). It wouldn't answer the question of whether they extend the life of the engine vs. regularly replaced rev. C coils. That was my point.
You know what I mean, right?
What that would mean is that the coils themselves last longer than Mazda coils. Which is good! Definitely a benefit. Time and money saver, removes one failure point, etc.
It wouldn't say anything about how long the engine lasts with BHR coils vs. with new OE rev. C coils, especially if the OE coils are changed preventively every 30k miles. I can see that comparison panning out either way, or being a wash. We just don't know without a lot of data.
In other words, it would mean BHR coils are a good way to simplify maintenance and save money in the long term (60k+ miles). It wouldn't answer the question of whether they extend the life of the engine vs. regularly replaced rev. C coils. That was my point.
You know what I mean, right?
In other words we can say that the BHR coils outlast the OEM because of its efficiency and consistency when it comes to delivering power to the plugs. This in turn provides a steady spark that is less prone to misfires.
Now I don't have BHR coils installed in my car so I cannot tell you how they effect the car, but I can guess that since this upgrade is praised by mostly everyone that has installed it, from noobs to technicians, they serve their purpose and they serve it well. Of course there is no data to support this so technically all of what I said is just a theory and I could be completely incorrect, but there is still a very good chance that these coils can improve engine life. I mean you don't have to believe me or anyone else for that matter if you're sceptical about these coils, but with all of its positive reviews it goes to show that these coils do hold some positive impact to the vehicle.
#6775
What am I doing here?
Join Date: Mar 2006
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Actually, it's not really safe to say that longevity/durability has any impact on efficiency or consistency. There is no law of the universe that provides for any causative or even correlative relationship. Additionally, there are likely at least a few design decisions that we know little about that could impact one and not the other.
In fact, I'm pretty certain I've read that the D585 coils used in the BHR kit really aren't more powerful. At the same dwell settings, they produce less spark than the OEM coils. It's not enough to impact an otherwise healthy NA Renesis but increasing dwell is recommended there and more or less required for FI. When increasing them significantly, it's also recommended that you run a new 12v power line for them as they'll be pulling current pretty close to the limit of what you want to do with the OE harness. That doesn't scream "more efficient" to me.
In fact, I'm pretty certain I've read that the D585 coils used in the BHR kit really aren't more powerful. At the same dwell settings, they produce less spark than the OEM coils. It's not enough to impact an otherwise healthy NA Renesis but increasing dwell is recommended there and more or less required for FI. When increasing them significantly, it's also recommended that you run a new 12v power line for them as they'll be pulling current pretty close to the limit of what you want to do with the OE harness. That doesn't scream "more efficient" to me.