Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#677
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
What you seek can be found in the owner's manual under the "Owner's Maintenance" section.
Don't have one, download it here: http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/disp...earHome.action
Last edited by Jon316G; 10-16-2011 at 10:13 AM.
#679
I'm thinking about putting some Infiniti G35 wheels on my car. The 19" set. I know that they fit, but do the fenders need to be rolled at all? Or is there any issues with rubbing? And could someone possibly provide a link to some pics of them on an 8...Thanks!
#681
Or get the specs of the wheels and start reading this thread..
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-55/will-fit-thread-133500/
#682
Angler of the Year
iTrader: (3)
yes they should fit no problem but, to be sure get the specs for the wheels from a G35 forum and go to 1010tires and use the tire calculator to see the size difference in the new vs old wheels/tires
i have 19X8.5 on my car and they fit fine with 245/35/19...and mine have 30mm offset
i doubt the G35 stock wheels are that low...probably more like 40-50
i have 19X8.5 on my car and they fit fine with 245/35/19...and mine have 30mm offset
i doubt the G35 stock wheels are that low...probably more like 40-50
#683
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white smoke at start up
hi,
i have an stock 08 mt with 40k miles for 3 months now (first rotary). i might be a little paranoid but i noticed that during cold starts white smoke comes out of my tail pipes. once the engine is warm, it goes away. i know that it burns rich at start ups but also read about the fact that white smoke can also be sign of coolant leaking into the housing. all oil changes are up to date, recently changed the plugs but not the coils. also put in a new air and cabin filter and cleaned the maf. starts are easy both cold and warm. idle is still pretty smooth, but going to check the ess and clean it this weekend. might do the ecu reset as well. just wanted to see if this was normal.
thanks!
i have an stock 08 mt with 40k miles for 3 months now (first rotary). i might be a little paranoid but i noticed that during cold starts white smoke comes out of my tail pipes. once the engine is warm, it goes away. i know that it burns rich at start ups but also read about the fact that white smoke can also be sign of coolant leaking into the housing. all oil changes are up to date, recently changed the plugs but not the coils. also put in a new air and cabin filter and cleaned the maf. starts are easy both cold and warm. idle is still pretty smooth, but going to check the ess and clean it this weekend. might do the ecu reset as well. just wanted to see if this was normal.
thanks!
#684
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by the way coolant level seems the same (or at least i dont notice a big dip in the level, but its so hard to guage with the way the tank is) and there's no gunk on the dipstick.
[quote=a12chan6el;4117826]hi,
i have an stock 08 mt with 40k miles for 3 months now (first rotary). i might be a little paranoid but i noticed that during cold starts white smoke comes out of my tail pipes. once the engine is warm, it goes away. i know that it burns rich at start ups but also read about the fact that white smoke can also be sign of coolant leaking into the housing. all oil changes are up to date, recently changed the plugs but not the coils. also put in a new air and cabin filter and cleaned the maf. starts are easy both cold and warm. idle is still pretty smooth, but going to check the ess and clean it this weekend. might do the ecu reset as well. just wanted to see if this was normal.
thanks![/quote
[quote=a12chan6el;4117826]hi,
i have an stock 08 mt with 40k miles for 3 months now (first rotary). i might be a little paranoid but i noticed that during cold starts white smoke comes out of my tail pipes. once the engine is warm, it goes away. i know that it burns rich at start ups but also read about the fact that white smoke can also be sign of coolant leaking into the housing. all oil changes are up to date, recently changed the plugs but not the coils. also put in a new air and cabin filter and cleaned the maf. starts are easy both cold and warm. idle is still pretty smooth, but going to check the ess and clean it this weekend. might do the ecu reset as well. just wanted to see if this was normal.
thanks![/quote
#688
East Coast Zoomer
Long time lurker, first time poster / potential RX-8 buyer.
I'm looking at stock 2005 8 GT (Loaded except sat nav). 24,000 kms (about 15,000 miles) on the entire vehcile. One owner, retired military. He bought it new in June '05, owned a few other cars and drove the 8 only occasionally (He was often on tour as well). He recently traded it in on a Mercedes SUV. I checked the 8 out on a hoist, and it looked great. Service record looked good too - more-often-than-needed oil changes, all the recall service was done. He clearly took great care of it - changed oil even when stored, practiced good start-up/shut downs, high octane fuel, oil top ups, etc... The car is actually, to be frank, near-mint. I'm an auto-tech student, and I've had a dozen pairs of eyes check it out, including 2 senior technicians/instructors, and everyone agrees it looks mint. The price seems decent - a little more than most '05's I've looked at, but given the kilometerage and condition, I'm feeling okay with the price. $16k asking, $14,850 after haggling (CDN). Here's the ad:
http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ318188449
But here's the rub: The owner moved from Edmonton AB to Moncton NB (essentially, across Canada) a couple of years ago. He hired a shipping company to ship his cars by train. When the RX-8 was being moved off the train car, the employee moving the car didn't know how to treat it and ended up flooding the engine. From there it was taken to the Mazda dealer in Moncton, where it was serviced and the plugs were replaced. He told me the cost of the job was about $550 (Paid for by the shipping company).
My question: As a potential buyer, how concerned should I be that the engine's been flooded? And if I decide to buy this car, is there any further servicing I should consider (like carbon removal)?
I'm looking at stock 2005 8 GT (Loaded except sat nav). 24,000 kms (about 15,000 miles) on the entire vehcile. One owner, retired military. He bought it new in June '05, owned a few other cars and drove the 8 only occasionally (He was often on tour as well). He recently traded it in on a Mercedes SUV. I checked the 8 out on a hoist, and it looked great. Service record looked good too - more-often-than-needed oil changes, all the recall service was done. He clearly took great care of it - changed oil even when stored, practiced good start-up/shut downs, high octane fuel, oil top ups, etc... The car is actually, to be frank, near-mint. I'm an auto-tech student, and I've had a dozen pairs of eyes check it out, including 2 senior technicians/instructors, and everyone agrees it looks mint. The price seems decent - a little more than most '05's I've looked at, but given the kilometerage and condition, I'm feeling okay with the price. $16k asking, $14,850 after haggling (CDN). Here's the ad:
http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ318188449
But here's the rub: The owner moved from Edmonton AB to Moncton NB (essentially, across Canada) a couple of years ago. He hired a shipping company to ship his cars by train. When the RX-8 was being moved off the train car, the employee moving the car didn't know how to treat it and ended up flooding the engine. From there it was taken to the Mazda dealer in Moncton, where it was serviced and the plugs were replaced. He told me the cost of the job was about $550 (Paid for by the shipping company).
My question: As a potential buyer, how concerned should I be that the engine's been flooded? And if I decide to buy this car, is there any further servicing I should consider (like carbon removal)?
#689
Time for boost...
iTrader: (24)
one time flooding is ok. Hell, people flood their cars quite often! I wouldn't worry on that front. (edit: However, if it constantly floods, that's obviously a bad thing!)
I recommend asking for the service receipts for the car. Read about the 8year/160k km warranty.
Also, a compression test should be performed by the dealer.
After that, you should be good to go!
I recommend asking for the service receipts for the car. Read about the 8year/160k km warranty.
Also, a compression test should be performed by the dealer.
After that, you should be good to go!
Last edited by RX8Soldier; 11-04-2011 at 09:01 PM. Reason: info change
#691
East Coast Zoomer
one time flooding is ok. Hell, people flood their cars quite often! I wouldn't worry on that front. (edit: However, if it constantly floods, that's obviously a bad thing!)
I recommend asking for the service receipts for the car. Read about the 8year/160k km warranty.
Also, a compression test should be performed by the dealer.
After that, you should be good to go!
I recommend asking for the service receipts for the car. Read about the 8year/160k km warranty.
Also, a compression test should be performed by the dealer.
After that, you should be good to go!
I stopped by the local Mazda dealership to ask about getting my own copy of the service history. Apparently their national system only operates on weekdays, so they said if I stop by Monday they can get it then.
About the extended warranty, the dealer who I'm getting the car through said he called both the local Mazda dealers about it. He said they ran the VIN, and it came back negative. That is, they're saying it doesn't qualify. I'm unable to verify if the warranty extension applies to cars sold in Canada, which might be an explanation. In any case, I have the Mazda 1-800 # which I'll call on Monday.
#693
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so heres a good one, a dumb question that is. I plan on putting fresh trans a diff fluid in come spring and I have read some good reviews on Eneos oil. After looking on the BHR web site i only see the Eneos 75w-90 syn gear oil and the rest is motor oil. My question is do you run this in the trans and diff? or just the trans with something else in the diff? also any one have any other suggested maintenance i should do while im at it? I will be doing an oil change aswell and was thinking about flushing the radiator. I DD my car except for the winter months, and i would like to try some autox so anything that would be needed or recomended maintenance wise for that would be helpfull. thanks.
#694
Auto to manual swapped
Seafoam question, got 103k miles and feel like putting another run through. I know I've read a few places it could cause a loss in compression for high mileage cars. Car still runs smooth but mpg is taking a dive. Any thoughts?
#696
Time for boost...
iTrader: (24)
so heres a good one, a dumb question that is. I plan on putting fresh trans a diff fluid in come spring and I have read some good reviews on Eneos oil. After looking on the BHR web site i only see the Eneos 75w-90 syn gear oil and the rest is motor oil. My question is do you run this in the trans and diff? or just the trans with something else in the diff? also any one have any other suggested maintenance i should do while im at it? I will be doing an oil change aswell and was thinking about flushing the radiator. I DD my car except for the winter months, and i would like to try some autox so anything that would be needed or recomended maintenance wise for that would be helpfull. thanks.
Decarbing will probably disrupt your compression, especially at your current mileage.
Auto/ manual tranny?
#697
I'm not too familiar with Eneos oil, but I believe that the 75w90 is for the diff. Make sure you add MT90 specifically for transmissions (which, is -technically speaking- 75w90. Look on their site).
Plugs/coils? MAF/ESS sensors? Air filter? Clogged cat?
Decarbing will probably disrupt your compression, especially at your current mileage.
Auto/ manual tranny?
Plugs/coils? MAF/ESS sensors? Air filter? Clogged cat?
Decarbing will probably disrupt your compression, especially at your current mileage.
Auto/ manual tranny?
#698
Time for boost...
iTrader: (24)
I learned a lot by reading a lot And, there's still much I'm learning...
The manual shifter doesn't light up, unless you have an aftermarket.
The gauges look to be from Prosport.com. The gauge pod itself is the Racing Beat ashtray pod.
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX8/Oil-System/11816.html
The manual shifter doesn't light up, unless you have an aftermarket.
The gauges look to be from Prosport.com. The gauge pod itself is the Racing Beat ashtray pod.
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX8/Oil-System/11816.html
#699
Auto to manual swapped
#700
no agenda
iTrader: (2)
It's actually the result of a botched Canadian Military project where they tried to build a human interface to a copy of the internet live on CD.
They used a fresh bottle of Molson Canadian, 40 ounces of Crown Royal, and a extra large plate of Poutine mixed all together in a Quasiturbine.
It all went horribly wrong while he was being force feed with the Canada-Arm, the 56k modem interface to the internet overloaded.
The resulting explosion has left him horribly disfigured, scares in the shape of the Military CADPAT design except in the colours of french fry, gravy and cheese. (OMG THE HORROR)
He's now left with only the ability to memorize only this site while still being interfaced to a 56k dialup modem.
I blame him for shitty performance of the rx8club.com servers!
(yeah I had some time to kill)