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What is the lowest and furthest back suspension link in the rear, the one with the adjustable cam bolt/notched washer?
I side smacked a curb once with my rear wheel. The wheel barrel was bent and all alignment checks were spot on. For assurance I replaced that wheel bearing and got an alignment anyways. But I notice now that the washer normally has the markings facing the ground, but on that side there are flipped 180°. I think bolt might be bent. Is that the lateral, camber, or toe link? And can I easily replace the bolt only?
picture for reference, this one is normal. Other side is inverted
That's your camber adjustment. If the alignment is fine, I'd leave the bolt alone, it's possible someone just installed the graduated ring upside down when putting the control arm back on (was it removed)? Was the subframe and control arm inspected and confirmed undamaged?
That's your camber adjustment. If the alignment is fine, I'd leave the bolt alone, it's possible someone just installed the graduated ring upside down when putting the control arm back on (was it removed)? Was the subframe and control arm inspected and confirmed undamaged?
The arm was not removed. I've looked it over and cannot see any cracks, deformation or weld issues. The arm looks straight too.
Found that is the lateral link, and the bolt and washer are one piece on that side, and the washer can't be arbitrarily flipped due to notches allowing it only one way. So the bolt which is eccentric, must be flipped creating some unusual alignment issue (but may look ok on an alignment rack when static ). Do you concur?
Currently recovering from a mouse invasion in my engine bay. Think I've gotten rid of the little bastards, and it looks like they didn't hit any wiring harnesses or get past the cabin air filter. But the engine bay insulation is all chewed to crap, and I'm in the process of replacing it. The question is what exactly Mazda used to put these wiring harnesses in place on either side of the engine bay. Are these really just garden-variety zip ties, or is there some special and probably stupid expensive part that just happens to look like the common zip tie? Think I'm going to have to unfasten the harnesses to get the strut tower insulation pads replaced.
Edit: Upon further inspection . . . are these zip tie things just supposed to pull out of the sheet metal? I can't tell what's attached to what and to what degree, and can't seem to find anything on Google or via a search here. I'm trying to move the harness out of the way so I can pull out the plastic fastener that attaches the insulation pad to the body.
What is Premix and how should it be done properly?
Hi there, I am thinking of buying a 2004 model of this beautiful car and I am researching maintenance and stuff. I came across the concept of using premix to lubricate apex seals and would just like more information on this practice, since it seems pretty controversial.
Not controversial. This question has been asked many times, and I don't think you'll find appetite for someone to repackage the information beyond what is already available. The best way to understand this and other RX8 quirks is to read the New & Potential Owners thread in the New Members section of the forum.
I'm not entirely sure where all it's available, but a 2006 Shinka I looked at had it, and there is a 2007 GT I see that has it. So I'm pretty sure you're spot on with the GT only, as well as Shinka and R3, but I am not sure what year it started to be available.
What is the lowest and furthest back suspension link in the rear, the one with the adjustable cam bolt/notched washer?
I side smacked a curb once with my rear wheel. The wheel barrel was bent and all alignment checks were spot on. For assurance I replaced that wheel bearing and got an alignment anyways. But I notice now that the washer normally has the markings facing the ground, but on that side there are flipped 180°. I think bolt might be bent. Is that the lateral, camber, or toe link? And can I easily replace the bolt only?
picture for reference, this one is normal. Other side is inverted
it rotates around fully to be on either side. So technically it can’t be installed incorrectly, just rotated to the wrong position, though “wrong” in this case is just a technicality. If you look closely that’s actually the correct position. Dead center below it is a line stamped on the subframe that indicates the notch position on the adjuster. Even if it’s adjusted to the top side it really doesn’t matter. The readout on the alignment machine is all that matters.
So just bought an rx8 guys , was having some issues a couple months back being that it had loss of power with a check engine light and no power steering. When to read the codes and came up with a lock solenoid. Another issue is I have to have the baro sensor unplugged or the engine becomes flooded and I have to repeat a deflooding process . Caf over heated a couple days ago and when I got the car turned back on the power steering was back . Just need help figuring out what's going on with this.
This is not the best place to troubleshoot a specific case like that, please start your own thread in the New Members section.
- power steering and overheating sounds like your coolant reservoir is leaking coolant onto the power steering connector below it.
- there isn't a code for a lock solenoid, but there are several solenoids for the intake valves, please post the actual code number (in your own thread)
- please read the New & Potential Owners thread, it will help you understand common problems and how to avoid them.
New owner of a 2008 40th anniversary edition, #451 but there's one issue that I can't stand.. for some reason whenever I turn on the air conditioner I smell exhaust, but only when the air conditioner is on. I went to an exhaust shop and the guy told me that if there was, you would be able to hear it from the front. the catalytic converter is gutted and I am looking to mid-pipe it, with a custom high-quality build. had several people try and see if they smell it outside.. nothing from them. I think its the converter but I'm not sure.. the cars also like to rattle but I'm assuming it's because of the motor mounts from threads I've read b4..
also, where is a maintenance schedule on the forum? I saw that there was a schedule here that was much better than Mazda's recommended, and the link I tried to click on would not let me view it for some odd reason.
thanks in advance!
also, 67k miles on the car and there's not a whole lot of wear.. guy had it in his garage and used it as a weekend driver
Last edited by RX-8 40th Anniversary; 03-26-2020 at 07:51 PM.
Reason: other details
What’s up guys I’m back. My 05 rx8 is still kicking. Presenting a few new problems. Not sure why it’s having these current issues. If anyone knows please let me know
current issues
1. The heater dial isn’t functioning properly. The temperature is bouncing all over the place. The thermometer and blower motor have already been replaced.
2. I can’t get into the trunk. The electronics are dead. Something is wrong with the lock too.
3. The car feels wobbly when I drive it. Even when the air is filled properly. 104k miles on her.
4. Front driver tire this winter loses air super quickly compared to other three. I had it checked out and the mechanic put some type of seal between the tire and the rim seemed to help.
5. The oil light came on three separate times and stood on for 45 min. I was slightly low according to the dipstick but just had a oil change and nothing was found when the shop did a scan. Not the best scanner though.
JDM engines are identical to US engines of same year, but make sure that if your car is a 6 port, you get a 6 port, and if it's a 4-port automatic, you get a 4-port.
Getting a freshly rebuilt engine is always recommended over buying a used rotary of unknown condition.
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line) ~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early ~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks ~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line) ~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early ~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks ~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
__________________
If you get a premium ignition coil set like BHR, they will last for many more years than OEM coils and you may never need to change coils again. Still change plugs on the above schedule. Be sure you have had all Miazda RX8 recall work done by a dealer. There is no expiration on your right to have all recalls done at Mazda cost. There are some important recalls and fixes. You can go to Mazda site and plug in your vehicle's Vin number and it will tell you what recalls there are ,and whether or not your vehicle has had them done yet. Cheers
Last edited by gwilliams6; 03-30-2020 at 12:06 AM.
JDM engines are identical to US engines of same year, but make sure that if your car is a 6 port, you get a 6 port, and if it's a 4-port automatic, you get a 4-port.
Getting a freshly rebuilt engine is always recommended over buying a used rotary of unknown condition.
what parts are different across years? My car is a 2004. But would anything be different if I put in a 2006 motor w/ tranny?
I understand that 2009 and on are different, what I’m asking is can I put a 2006 (6 port manual) motor and tranny in a 2004 chassis (originally had 6 port manual). Is there any modification needed to do this or are they the same?
thanks,
I understand that 2009 and on are different, what I’m asking is can I put a 2006 (6 port manual) motor and tranny in a 2004 chassis (originally had 6 port manual). Is there any modification needed to do this or are they the same?
thanks,
installed complete should be fine, there were some minor revisions so a couple of small things might pop up but all easily worked around if you’re mixing and matching parts
01-29-2020, 09:27 AM
Think I've gotten rid of the little bastards, and it looks like they didn't hit any wiring harnesses or get past the cabin air filter. But the engine bay insulation is all chewed to crap, and I'm in the process of replacing it. The question is what exactly Mazda used to put these wiring harnesses in place on either side of the engine bay. Are these really just garden-variety zip ties, or is there some special and probably stupid expensive part that just happens to look like the common zip tie? Think I'm going to have to unfasten the harnesses to get the strut tower insulation pads replaced.
What is Premix and how should it be done properly?
exhaust leak possibly?
but there's one issue that I can't stand.. for some reason whenever I turn on the air conditioner I smell exhaust, but only when the air conditioner is on. I went to an exhaust shop and the guy told me that if there was, you would be able to hear it from the front. the catalytic converter is gutted and I am looking to mid-pipe it, with a custom high-quality build. had several people try and see if they smell it outside.. nothing from them. I think its the converter but I'm not sure.. the cars also like to rattle but I'm assuming it's because of the motor mounts from threads I've read b4..
