Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#7451
#7453
This may be a really dumb question but any way of searching online or anyone has any credible mechanics that work on these rotaries in NY? I don't have much friends and I really don't want to go back to the dealer.
#7455
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
if its not engine related its no different then working on any other car
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mazdafan1892 (10-03-2020)
#7459
Too old for PC
Just so we’re on the same page.....
“Premix” as the term is used with rotaries, is the practice of adding a small amount (0.5 to 1.0 oz. @ gallon) 2-cycle oil (oil designed to burn in 2-cycle engines) in with the car’s fuel. This is to augment, or in some cases replace oil that is automatically introduced at the intake phase by an engine “pump”. The oil is needed and used to lubricate the hard seals (side, corner and apex) and to aid dynamic compression.
I’m not familiar with any gas stations that sell fuel with oil already added either. But never been to the pacific islands either. Since 2-cycle engines are widely used for boats maybe it’s available where you live???
“Premix” as the term is used with rotaries, is the practice of adding a small amount (0.5 to 1.0 oz. @ gallon) 2-cycle oil (oil designed to burn in 2-cycle engines) in with the car’s fuel. This is to augment, or in some cases replace oil that is automatically introduced at the intake phase by an engine “pump”. The oil is needed and used to lubricate the hard seals (side, corner and apex) and to aid dynamic compression.
I’m not familiar with any gas stations that sell fuel with oil already added either. But never been to the pacific islands either. Since 2-cycle engines are widely used for boats maybe it’s available where you live???
Last edited by Signal 2; 08-25-2020 at 03:48 AM.
#7461
It is not illegal to put additives like premix (or STP of fuel injector cleaner) into your fuel, there is no technical to it. The EPA emission standards apply at the tailpipe and have nothing to do with what you put in your tank, except that it has to burn clean enough to pass the tail pipe test. . The confusion is that the primary fuel used for any car driven on a public road has to be a taxed fuel. This is why diesel fuel is dyed red for off-road use since it is not taxed and why states test trucks at weigh stations for red dye fuel since it a cheaper fuel (because it is not taxed). It is also why you cannot run bio-fuel you make at home from food grease as a diesel replacement since it is not a taxed fuel. You can however add whatever you want to your road taxed fuel.
#7464
Registered
Oil strainer
I just got done ripping apart 2 series1 motors from an '04. Neither had a guard over the strainer. Just the angled tube with the screen on the inside center.
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Kimura (09-11-2020)
#7465
So I've taken my radio out twice, had no radio, display or A/C working. I did the face tightening got my A/C working but no radio or display. I went in again but no luck. I checked all the fuses and they are all working. Searched but very vague fixes. Anyone know of a thread with similar problems? If I got a dual bin kit will I get my display back? I'll spend the money if it fixes everything. Thanks in advance.
#7466
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
There is either something wrong with the head unit or it isn't getting power
Do you have a multimeter? Check to see if it's getting power to the plugs.
The center panel display gets a signal from the A/C amplifier unit
There is a fairly complex test routine for the A/C climate control unit ( the unit with the dials below the head unit) in the factory workshop manual
Do you have a multimeter? Check to see if it's getting power to the plugs.
The center panel display gets a signal from the A/C amplifier unit
There is a fairly complex test routine for the A/C climate control unit ( the unit with the dials below the head unit) in the factory workshop manual
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aclinks (09-12-2020)
#7467
There is either something wrong with the head unit or it isn't getting power
Do you have a multimeter? Check to see if it's getting power to the plugs.
The center panel display gets a signal from the A/C amplifier unit
There is a fairly complex test routine for the A/C climate control unit ( the unit with the dials below the head unit) in the factory workshop manual
Do you have a multimeter? Check to see if it's getting power to the plugs.
The center panel display gets a signal from the A/C amplifier unit
There is a fairly complex test routine for the A/C climate control unit ( the unit with the dials below the head unit) in the factory workshop manual
#7468
Do the engines with low/bad compression spin faster when attempting to start? Like is there less strain on the starter because of the low compression and it can achieve a higher speed as a result? On the flip side, does a clogged cat/exhaust create enough of a restriction that the cranking speed is reduced? Like would the exhaust restriction create enough back pressure that the starter is fighting it while trying to turn over?
Last edited by deathsled; 09-18-2020 at 12:59 PM.
#7470
Anyone ever find a DIY for the headlight auto leveling sensor link, I've narrowed down some road noise to what I think is this link knocking around. Feels pretty loose and when I felt up my sway bar end links they felt pretty solid. So far it's replace the entire thing, which no thanks for $400 or so, or a $50 link from belarus on ebay.
I'm gonna pull it today regardless while my car is up on stands to fiddle with the thing, maybe it's supposed to be really loose and janky in the sockets?
I'm gonna pull it today regardless while my car is up on stands to fiddle with the thing, maybe it's supposed to be really loose and janky in the sockets?
#7471
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Anyone ever find a DIY for the headlight auto leveling sensor link, I've narrowed down some road noise to what I think is this link knocking around. Feels pretty loose and when I felt up my sway bar end links they felt pretty solid. So far it's replace the entire thing, which no thanks for $400 or so, or a $50 link from belarus on ebay.
I'm gonna pull it today regardless while my car is up on stands to fiddle with the thing, maybe it's supposed to be really loose and janky in the sockets?
I'm gonna pull it today regardless while my car is up on stands to fiddle with the thing, maybe it's supposed to be really loose and janky in the sockets?
I think your issue is someplace else
Just remove the mounting bolt and see if the noise goes away
#7472
Thanks dannobre! I ended up doing exactly what you suggested, pulled the headlight link and tested, same noises so I'm back to suspecting my end links. I have parts on the way since I jumped the gun and ordered them when I first thought it might be them. They feel tight when I try to move them by hand but maybe I'm just a noodle armed amateur. We shall see, I've been hunting down rattles and other noises during this quarantine, it's kept me pretty busy.
#7473
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Thanks dannobre! I ended up doing exactly what you suggested, pulled the headlight link and tested, same noises so I'm back to suspecting my end links. I have parts on the way since I jumped the gun and ordered them when I first thought it might be them. They feel tight when I try to move them by hand but maybe I'm just a noodle armed amateur. We shall see, I've been hunting down rattles and other noises during this quarantine, it's kept me pretty busy.
You can rule out the sway bar end links the same way... disconnect them and see of the noise goes away...
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Conduct (09-19-2020)
#7474
Well then. Now... I feel... simple. Never even occurred to me to just disconnect them, like somewhere in the back of my mind I'm thinking I can't leave them off or my car will explode.
Thanks again dannobre.
Thanks again dannobre.