Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#7501
umm, so another dumb question from me, i was changing the cabin air and this popped off from somewhere, i have been staring at the filter area for the past 15 mins and i cannot figure out where this goes.
https://i.postimg.cc/g23X3cfb/viber-...3-10-37-45.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/g23X3cfb/viber-...3-10-37-45.jpg
Last edited by nstream; 01-22-2021 at 06:49 PM.
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nstream (01-22-2021)
#7504
Registered
Could the car still run at 100k miles without ever having the coils changed?
Just got it and fuel economy is pretty awful -- I used 1/8 of a tank driving 3km (I know it needs plugs already, but unsure if previous owner ever changed coils).
Just got it and fuel economy is pretty awful -- I used 1/8 of a tank driving 3km (I know it needs plugs already, but unsure if previous owner ever changed coils).
Last edited by Jerakl; 02-02-2021 at 02:06 PM.
#7505
Smoking turbo yay
If the history is unknown, then it's always a good idea to replace them.
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Jerakl (02-02-2021)
#7506
Registered
The plugs needs replacing anyways, and bc no idea on condition of coils other than "upgraded" (per the seller, he's not really a rotary guy from the sounds of it) I was just going to grab a BHR Plug/coil/wire kit.
I'm just getting REALLY bad fuel economy (worse than normal), and wondering if the combo of worn out plugs+coils is what's doing it.
#7508
Registered
Car has no CAT, so at least I'm safe on that front.. Bought the car knowing it needed spark plugs, but the condition of the coils is not known, and previous owner didn't log any maintenance, changes other than "upgraded". How long ago they were "upgraded" I have no clue. Could've been 20k KM, could've been 50k.
#7509
40th anniversary Edition
Car has no CAT, so at least I'm safe on that front.. Bought the car knowing it needed spark plugs, but the condition of the coils is not known, and previous owner didn't log any maintenance, changes other than "upgraded". How long ago they were "upgraded" I have no clue. Could've been 20k KM, could've been 50k.
#7510
Registered
yeah my car is actually over due for plugs at 25k KM (~16k miles), basically needs an entire ignition system refresh :p
#7511
Registered
iTrader: (1)
With good coils 25k km is no problem for plugs. There is some kinda myth about needing to replace them every time you change the oil, but that's a quick way to spend money and accomplish nothing. I think I change mine at 50k km? And even then they are not overly dirty or out of gap spec. And if they do come out dirty, the problem is probably not the plug.
#7512
Registered
With good coils 25k km is no problem for plugs. There is some kinda myth about needing to replace them every time you change the oil, but that's a quick way to spend money and accomplish nothing. I think I change mine at 50k km? And even then they are not overly dirty or out of gap spec. And if they do come out dirty, the problem is probably not the plug.
#7513
Registered
iTrader: (1)
I'd imagine that if the coils (or plugs) were bad enough to cause fuel economy anywhere near that bad, the engine would run like crap. The tailpipe would probably be spewing a ton of smoke and bad smell, even by decatted RX-8 standards (which are horrible enough as they are).
#7515
2000cc
im looking at my first rx8 on cars from japan and and its saying theres a 2000cc i thought it was only in the 1.3 Renesis i just want to see if its mislabeled or did i just not know?
#7517
Did all the troubleshooting, found out my front driver side sensor is kaput, i cant get another one for a few months and now its time to renew my car rego.
Long story short, is there a way to force abs and tcs light off? Short of desoldering the LED lights?
Long story short, is there a way to force abs and tcs light off? Short of desoldering the LED lights?
Last edited by nstream; 02-19-2021 at 02:32 PM.
#7520
isnt the sensor pressed into the hub?? i think i have to swap out the entire hub right? and even that will need to be calibrated to the onboard computer.
Would you happen to have a part number or link?
i live in an area where it will take some 2 months to get the part in
Would you happen to have a part number or link?
i live in an area where it will take some 2 months to get the part in
#7522
Registered
Are there any easy places to tap into the reverse switch in the front of the car especially near the head unit?
As an aside I really wish people didn't use imgur or photobucket on here. I have been looking for several hours for an answer and 90% of the posts are answered with "use the search" and the other 10% have links to images on imgur that don't exist anymore. If you read this, from now on PLEASE upload images instead of linking them...
As an aside I really wish people didn't use imgur or photobucket on here. I have been looking for several hours for an answer and 90% of the posts are answered with "use the search" and the other 10% have links to images on imgur that don't exist anymore. If you read this, from now on PLEASE upload images instead of linking them...
Photos taken from my auto dimming mirror DIY.
Last edited by motodenta; 02-23-2021 at 01:33 PM.
#7523
Dumb one.
Car's been running hot on highway during summer(not in traffic nor idle), system full of coolant, no air. Water pump and t-stat working(Mazmart, new), relatively new Mishimoto radiator and ducted(LRB undertray+foam), heater core orifice in place, both fans working, coolant flush recently (pretty clean), 30% FL22/70% distilled water, AEM intake to free up space behind rad. Oil sample did not find coolant in oil. Catless
Why do I run hot (never passed 220f, max 216f, but my fan turn on at 180f)?
Radiator surface is approximitaly 180f when coolant is 180f however, the top tank(Aluminium) is only 113f measured with IR gun.
Still have air in system? Bleed it according to FSM and even driving with the cap off for several days.
Clogged/bad radiator?
Car's been running hot on highway during summer(not in traffic nor idle), system full of coolant, no air. Water pump and t-stat working(Mazmart, new), relatively new Mishimoto radiator and ducted(LRB undertray+foam), heater core orifice in place, both fans working, coolant flush recently (pretty clean), 30% FL22/70% distilled water, AEM intake to free up space behind rad. Oil sample did not find coolant in oil. Catless
Why do I run hot (never passed 220f, max 216f, but my fan turn on at 180f)?
Radiator surface is approximitaly 180f when coolant is 180f however, the top tank(Aluminium) is only 113f measured with IR gun.
Still have air in system? Bleed it according to FSM and even driving with the cap off for several days.
Clogged/bad radiator?
Last edited by Shaozhou Zhang; 02-28-2021 at 12:31 AM.
#7525
Do I have to Premix my 2011? I ordered my rotary bum kit /.\
The previous owner only put 5w-20 since car has 59k I am considering 10w-40 conventional, I been thinking long and hard about idemistu 10w-30 full synthetic but I would have to order in advance but I don't mind. Also, I heard it don't need a sohn adapter.
The previous owner only put 5w-20 since car has 59k I am considering 10w-40 conventional, I been thinking long and hard about idemistu 10w-30 full synthetic but I would have to order in advance but I don't mind. Also, I heard it don't need a sohn adapter.