Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#7676
Registered
Aha, got it. That's exactly what happened, I broke it. No idea where the hose dropped to. So I assume I need a new radiator? Anyone ever thread/glue in a fitting?
#7677
Registered
Or you have done a good thing. And Now you have to buy an all aluminum rad. 😁
#7679
Registered
Thanks for putting a positive spin on my ham-handed wrenching!
Question - I'd love to get the car 2 miles down the road to a place I can work on it easier. If I put a sheet metal screw into the broken off hole, think I can drive it there? I don't care about losing some coolant on the drive, just obviously don't want to cause further problems.
Question - I'd love to get the car 2 miles down the road to a place I can work on it easier. If I put a sheet metal screw into the broken off hole, think I can drive it there? I don't care about losing some coolant on the drive, just obviously don't want to cause further problems.
#7680
Registered
#7681
How do I get permission to post?
Hi hopefully this works out but I’ve been a member forever now and I never figured out why it won’t let me create a post! My rx8 has sadly lost compression and I would like you guys to have first dips on the parts it’s a series 2 AT clean title on shell if you wanna just rip everything out, but also has bhr coils exhaust etc so dm or show me how to post!
#7683
#7685
#7686
Metatron
iTrader: (1)
Just random posts, stops people spamming the Sales area immediately after joining.
Used to be a common prob, hence the rule.
Lounge posts don't count....
(Even a comment on a show car counts!)
Used to be a common prob, hence the rule.
Lounge posts don't count....
(Even a comment on a show car counts!)
#7687
Registered
Noises at the rear - have I done something wrong
Wellllll, for some time now, I’ve had an annoying noise from the rear. Sounded like it was coming from the middle - so i suspected the diff. Then over time I could hear another noise from the rear right on cornering, which i assumed was the bearing failing.
So I changed the rear right bearing, and both noises has now gone - much to my relief 👍
Strange thing is that now I have a completely different noise - which wasn’t there before coming form the rear left. Can’t really hear it when accelerating or braking, just when coasting. Seems much louder as the car gets slower. Kind of a scraping and some clicking / knocking.
Surely its coincidence and I haven’t ‘broken’ something in the diff by turning one wheel and not the other when changing the bearing…..
Any ideas??
Thanks
So I changed the rear right bearing, and both noises has now gone - much to my relief 👍
Strange thing is that now I have a completely different noise - which wasn’t there before coming form the rear left. Can’t really hear it when accelerating or braking, just when coasting. Seems much louder as the car gets slower. Kind of a scraping and some clicking / knocking.
Surely its coincidence and I haven’t ‘broken’ something in the diff by turning one wheel and not the other when changing the bearing…..
Any ideas??
Thanks
#7688
Registered
I'm assuming you had the brake caliper removed. Maybe the slides are jambed up causing pads to rub and grind on the rotor..... Just a thought
#7690
Registered
Speaking of obvious, but I figured I'd say this anyway - noise when coasting that goes away under acceleration and braking can be loose lug nuts. Ask me how I know. Might be worth jacking up the rear left and seeing if there is any wiggle, torque the nuts to be sure.
The following users liked this post:
IamFodi (04-08-2022)
#7691
Registered
Some more reading tells me that the lug nuts should be closer to 100 ft/lbs.
Tightened them up, and silence 👍
Thanks
The following 2 users liked this post by Judderman:
IamFodi (04-08-2022),
Red line envy (04-09-2022)
#7694
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The following 2 users liked this post by 10KRPM:
gwilliams6 (04-24-2022),
Red line envy (04-19-2022)
#7697
Registered
What is the reason the MAF sensor has an IAT sensor next to it, yet some turbo kits insist that you need to separate the IAT(post IC) and MAF(pre-turbo)?
#7698
Project Seca
iTrader: (10)
My understanding (and someone correct if I am mistaken) is that on a forced induction setup, the charge air temp is important to monitor and how above a certain temp the timing should be adjusted to avoid detonation. The factory setup incorporates the MAF and IAT sensors into one nice and neat unit, which is perfectly fine for the engine as-is since it isn't running forced induction. Often people will not incorporate a separate IAT sensor when going FI, and you could technically get away with that (I did for quite some time) however it IS advised to install a IAT sensor post-IC in order to get accurate measurements for tuning purposes.
#7699
Registered
iTrader: (1)
After having the car for 17 years, I finally decided to order a RacingBeat REvi intake and scoop. Unfortunately supply chain issues stalled it shipping for about six months, forcing me to wait until things calmed down at work after the Olympics.
I finally get the MAF & grommets swapped over to the REvi, and have a day off to work on it, only to discover that the top tank of the radiator is slightly occluding the bottom of the front bulkhead pass through for the intake. I called Racing Beat to see if they had heard of this or had any suggestions. They said the top tank might be too large, or it’s installation might be off in its adjustment.
My gut take on this is that this radiator is sufficiently taller than OEM to be incompatible with my intended set up, as I really don’t see an opportunity to adjust anything to get the clearance the REvi needs.
Yes, I tried searching before posting; but nothing that came up seemed to be even close to my situation.
Moderators: my apologies if this is not a proper place for this; but after half an hour of searching, I am still not sure where to post this. Please feel free to move it to wherever you deem appropriate.
View from the front of the forward bulkhead, looking rearward, showing the radiator’s occlusion.
View from the engine bay, looking forward through the air intake pass through of the forward bulkhead.
From the engine bay, looking down at the top of the radiator.
From the engine bay side of the forward bulkhead, looking down at the upper mount of the radiator.J
Bottom of the radiator, showing one of the lower mounts of the radiator.
Same lower radiator mount from a slightly different angle. Is the radiator not seated properly?
Bottom radiator mount, showing the bracket.
Upper mount, forward of the forward bulkhead.
#7700
Registered
The combustion process will follow the Ideal Gas Law (PV=nRT), where
- P=pressure ( measurable)
- V-volume (volume combustion chamber)
- n= amount of substance (???)
- R-gas constant (constant)
- T=temperature (measurable)
However, when you introduce a turbo / super -charger, and perhaps IC, into the equation; the temperature at the throttle body will be significantly elevated over what's seen at the MAF (particularly on hot days and after WOT runs) . One can easily see the advantage in moving the IAT to just before the throttle body, i.e. post turbo/charger and IC, to provide the ECU accurate temp so that it can most accurately calculate quantity of air, and achieve desired timing and AFR. All is not lost in the absence of an IAT at the throttle body. This c/b somewhat mitigated by enlarging "safety buffers" when tuning.
I have a separate, additional IAT plumbed at my throttle body, but it is not wired into the ECU harness, i.e. the ECU still reads the integrated IAT at the MAF. But it does serve to tell *me* when IATs are significantly elevated above ambient and that "I should cool it."
Last edited by jcbrx8; 04-27-2022 at 08:18 AM.