Does anyone have english instructions for greddy oil pan installation? or just torque specs/ pattern and prefered sealant to use?

 

Use grey RTV..tighten in a typical Pan sequence and tighten them carefully They dont need to be super tight

 

perfect, thanks.

 

I've got a 2007 Rex engine has low power at under 4000rpm also engine makes a slightly deeper noise than usual, problem has been ever since I got it serviced at a Mazda dealership, took it back there and they say there's nothing wrong with it. Also does anyone know any rx8 mechanics in the Hertfordshire/ Bedfordshire area?

 

^sounds normal to me.

 

I was wondering since I am new to driving stick, would killing this car cause problems because of the rotary? I mean everyone says you're not supposed to start the car and then turn it off too quickly before the engine heats up, so.. yeah

 

I have noted that after a bit of aggressive accelerating and shifting, there is a bit of a hot oil smell to the engine. Have not seen any signs of an oil leak. Given the cars use of oil is that smell normal?

 

My car does this as well (so much so sometimes that I can smell it through the heater vents) I assume this is normal given the nature of the car, but confirmation would be nice.

 

No I would not say it's normal.
I've never experienced this anyway.
So from my point of view it would not be normal.

It will be interesting to see how many ppl weigh in on this...
Maybe the lack of oil smell means something is wrong with my car <shrug>

 

i have not smelt oil either while driving..

 

I have smelt this, only when I am pushing it hard though. I dont see the oil heating up, it sits steady around 180 when I have been pushing it.

 

When the car gets heat soaked..any car really, you start to get different smells.

Normal street driving if you are smelling strange oil smells you likely have a leak dripping on something hot. . look on the passenger side off the engine

 

Isn't the stock "oil temp." gauge just a dummy gauge anyway? I get some oil smell after long stints on the highway 15-20 miles after I slow down into neighborhood driving.

 

Dan corrected me the other day.
We have two oil sensors, one is a level sensor the other is a pressure sensor, both are a good no good sensors not able to provide a variable input. He describe the pressure sensor as a go no go sensor.
So no temp sensor. The OEM oil gauge is weird its just kind of there

 

I agree that a leak hitting the exhaust would give a burning oil smell. Have that in some of my older sports cars. I don't notice the smell until I actually get out of the car, and I don't notice it with routine driving. Given the position of the dip stick to be. I am wondering if this is not just coming from it? I have cardboard under the car and would notice any fluid leak.

 

Real common leak is the MOP o-ring..and it drips right on the front of the manifold when the car is moving....look around there

 

Ok ... I should know this but I don't
I've not bought OEM coils is some time. (especially from the dealer)

How do you tell if you have version a, b or c coils?

Is there something on the box or the coil itself?

 

My clutch is squeaky and i think it is from inside the car

i tried lubing it with wd-40 as well as some silicone lube that is used for door hinges but after a little bit it just comes right back

here'a a video


http://youtu.be/hu50xMrCPE0


do any of you guys know what to do or what would be more effective at lubing it?
or is it a clutch pedal problem?

 

more than likely you're clutch bracket is going out.

 

There are a few points that can squeak. Tension spring. Fulcrum pin (see the pictures in this link http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123646510-Adjusting-the-clutch-pedal-(works-great!)). But, Mazda has also acknowledged a problem in the clutch pedal assembly and has a technical bulletin on fixing it. May want to have the shop address if this is the start of a failure of a part. Here is a link. http://rotarynews.com/node/view/980

 

my car records show that the previous owner got it to be checked for a clutch pedal warranty at 53k miles and the tech did not see any damage to it

my car is at 75k miles now

 

i think the squeaking disappeared today and i just went out there to go check and the spot weld looks intact; here is a picture of it:

 

Sorry guy's know you get a lot of these as I've read them all lol

I've got an idle issue after leaving the battery disconnected for 24 hrs when I changed my starter so think the ecu reset

I've got past my flood due to the burnt starter, and cold started it 5 times not touching anything and letting it figure things out itself for 10+ minutes.

I've drove it once since and still stalls

Do I
A) continue with the cold starts and letting it sit for 10+ mins without touching the peddles (all electrics on or off as read both options)
B) drive it as much as possible

To make things more tricky I have a warm start issue, think due to spark plugs as it went from year 5 service to 7 and believe plugs are changed at 6 so I'm hoping its this but will get a compression test the weekend

It's a 54 plate with 142k miles on the clock but has been serviced on Mazda years 1,2,3,5 and 7 and only had one owner who checked the oil weekly and always got the advisories done on the services.

Any help will be greatly appreciated as I need it to idle properly so I can drive it to Essex rotary and get the compression test and plugs changed

Thanks in advance

 

warm start leads me to believe you have low compression, get the compression checked..

our engines have higher compression when cold, as the engine gets warmer, the metal in the engine expands with the heat and the seals start to lose contact with the housing.

if its not a compression issue, then change out the coils plugs and wires if they have not been changed within 30k miles.

 

So I PM'd NYCGPS on this question.
The following is his response


"Newest one is Version C, it came with Spirit-R and superceeded all previous version.

The coil itself looks the same (duh lol), and there is no more markings on the coil itself, but what I do noticed is that they changed the material from Black rubber (the bottom) to some see thru rubber/plastic so you can see the stuff inside (the coil and igniter)

As for what exactly they updated, no one knows for sure. Mazda USA still has a lot of B left (JDM 8 does not work with B, so they have been using A since it came out years ago) so it takes a while before Mazda NA has any C"