monchie

It's very heavy...

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

moniche, this is the dumb question thread not the dumb answer thread

DR04RX8

Have you changed plugs, wires and coils? I had the same problem, rough idles and my engine shook like it wanted to jump out of the engine bay. After i changed them, it stopped shaking..also have you cleaned the ess? If there's metal shaving and grime it can shake as well. (a little silver sensor at the bottom of the engine, behind the bottom pulley) those were the basics i was recommended from other owners on here. Give that ess a clean, decently check the plugs. Oh and if you have the OEM air box you have to remove it to get to the ess, unless you go at it from the bottom.

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

I have changed everything multiple times.

The only thing I can really think of if it HAD to be ignition related is that my coils which I purchased last spring were not OEM ones, they were like intermotor or something. They're basically a less expensive coil that you can buy online from advanced auto. I am currently running 3 of those and 1 new OEM mazda one (I needed to run 1 oem mazda coil because I actually broke 1 of the intermotor ones in half LOL). I'll start with a compression check. I'll give you guys the numbers.

If they turn out ok, I will throw on my new exhaust, BHR midpipe which should be coming, and if I still have a problem, I will just get the BHR coils. I'd actually be pretty pissed if that's what it was because who expects "new" products to cause worse performance. Before I put new coils on though I never really ran it too long so I cant remember if I had the same issue with OEM coils before these less expensive ones.

monchie

I know, I dumb...lol

poacherinthezoo

I know we're suppose to get the engine up to the high rev's each day/drive to help stop carbon build up and to get some values (whose names I can't remember) to open and close so they don't get carbon built up on them and stuck. Does this need to be done at full throttle or can you get up to the high RPMs and feather the throttle to keep the RPMs high? For example, I floor it in first, get up to 8,000 rpms, shift to 2nd, then plant my foot down again till I'm near 8,000 rpms. When I do this I'm already going decently quick (over the speed limit on most roads), can I go on and off the throttle and keep my revs up near 6-8,000 for a longer period of time to help keep the engine spinning fast and burning hot, or is it not a good idea/not beneficial to keep the rev's high like this and not be a full throttle?


The previous owner of my 09 R3 had all of the service done at a mazda dealer and yet it appears they (or the owner) still managed to over fill the oil and I've got the marbles in a can thing going on. So I can add that job to the list of things I plan on doing to the car as soon as spring rolls around.

40w8

^Just drive it hard for a few minutes to build up heat.

Full throttle will make some rpm's, put your attention on watching cars and people.

I think I had noise from air in the heater control area. I burped the water by opening the rad cap slightly while hot. I think that fixed it.

poacherinthezoo

Yeah, I did some digging around on here and the noise I've got sounds exactly like the videos of people who had it fixed with the coolant restrictor, so it wasn't the MIAC that I was dreading.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Full throttle is needed. You need high air flow, high fuel flow. High rpm at light load is just lots of heat into the cooling system and doesn't do much for carbon.

Wolfe

iTrader: (1)

lol

Jeff77789

my friend drove my car today and he redlined it before it got warm
he was actually "revving" it to show off

my car is at 78k miles and how much damage does this actually cause?
the needle was right under or right at the very first tick mark

wcs

iTrader: (2)

The ECU has a rev limiter if the engine temp is too cold.

So your engine must have been warm enough.

DR04RX8

Lol how did you break one in half???? lol and aftermarket coils shouldn't matter much, i got mine from Orileys and they work just fine. And if it does, lmk how the BHR pipe sounds! I'm planning on getting one. And did you get it with a high flow cat, or just midpipe?

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

I got the BHR midpipe with just the midpipe. I also got a Fujitsubo exhaust to pair with that.

I am still blown away though. Mazda did another compression test today and said the numbers are improving each test. wtf is this ****. This time most chambers were 7.1 @240RPM (That is what the service rep said, he had the tech write down all the numbers for me so I can verify them later), but regardless, mazda hotline and the techs said it was fine.

I guess I'll never figure out what the problem with hot start/idle is. Next up is to buy a BHR ignition kit and see if it improves it at all. Maybe the coils are just crap, who knows. And I broke one because I put the spark plug wire onto it but had to take it off for some reason and the whole upper half came with the spark plug lol.

ESBjiujitsu

So i have been reading up on the sohn omp setup and the 2 dumb questions that i dont seem to find a definitive answer for is...

1. when using a sohm omp adapter is it necessary and/or recommended to still pre mix, and if so what would be the benefits of still premixing.

2. when using the sohn omp adapter is it preferred/recommended on a higher mileage rx8's to then start using high quality synthetic oil in the engine?

thanks for the help. I figure these are boarder line dumb question just because there are so many posts about it but I personally just cant seem to find the answers. thank you

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I've seen this more than once with climbing compression numbers. The only reasonable suggestion I have seen is that carbon is working out from behind the seals, letting the seals move their correct range of motion, and/or the seals are re-lapping themselves to fit your housing/irons.

1) Yes, you should still premix. The oil injectors are pointed at the sides for the side seals, nothing much gets to the center of the apex seal outside of premix or the series 2 engine

2) Both quality syn and SOHN are recommended, regardless of high mileage or low mileage.

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

Well it's not so much that the compression is getting better thats bothering me, it's just that I am running out of ideas as to why this problem still persists (poor idle and poor hot starts). By poor idle I dont mean that the engine is dying or anything, I mean that its a bit shaky and I can hear bumps underneath the car. Most people told me that that was what a misfire was when you heard/felt that roughness under the car. Well I havent gotten an CELs or anything like that.

I also thought my hot start issue (if it wasnt from bad compression) might be caused by a period 2 months ago where the nut that secures the cable from the battery to the starter had fallen off; I cranked it so many times that I figured I might have damaged the starter. But it still seems to spin just as fast on warm starts, its just the engine still takes a bit to kick in.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Given what you just told me, I'd re-check the engine block grounds and the battery connections. Could have symptoms of a failing ignition just because it's having trouble with the electrical current when the engine is at it's most noticeable vibration points.

Might not be it, but you had a battery/electrical issue before so it could fit.

Jeff77789

no no no, it was a series 1

poacherinthezoo

I know there are 3 methods for oil changes for the rx8:
1) the normal drain and add it back, same as any other car
2) the drain and fill, followed by a 2nd drain and fill to get 85% of the oil fresg
3)perform a normal oil change, but tilt the car to aid in more of the oil out of the big side coolers and extensive oil lines. This last method doesn't get near the 85% fresh oil that the 2 back-to-back fills do, but I don't feel that's necessary until the autocross season starts.

However, I just can't get the right combination of key words together to effectively search and find this last method. Is there a DIY out there? While directs to tilt (and how high)? Exactly what parts are it that this method helps get the extra oil out of? The big coolers in front of the front wheels (series 2)? Do rotary engines have more oil lines than piston engines? (Sorry, I'm not very good with figuring out what those big exploded parts diagrams).

Is there a DIY out there for method #2 - the double change for when I do that eventually, or is it really as simple as change the oil, run the car for 2 minutes, and then change the oil again?

ESBjiujitsu

Thank you for the detailed and straight forward answer! Greatly appreciated.

DR04RX8

Lol no comment on the coil. lol, and are you having trouble after the engine is hot? I had mine do that to me a while back. Idk what causes that, i saw some hot start plus on mazdatrix.com or mazmart.com. I can't recall, but I've never used them either. And have you repaved your starter? And what year is your Rex?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Series 1 has a cold rev limit too. It's just single stage at 5,500rpm rather than dual stage at 2 different RPMs like the Series 2.

I don't think there is a DIY, because it's as straightforward as it sounds. The oil coolers and lines hold more than a quart of oil combined. People lower a side, raise the other, back and forth, to get the oil transferred (it's not a smooth 'floor' to the path, so the oil will still collect in spots). Some people go to greater lengths than others, some people use front to back, etc...

"Rotaries" don't "have more oil lines than piston engines". Oil lines exist when oil needs to be transferred somewhere. Typically the main reason for doing this is for cooling the oil, but other reasons exist too. Lots of cars out there have oil coolers to one degree or another. How much oil is in the lines is all based on how much the lines can hold, if they can drain naturally, etc...

My concern with trying to drain the oil coolers and lines completely would be in that they are empty, or mostly empty, on first start. How much wear are you doing to the engine before the system fills back up and re-pressurizes? I don't know that answer, but it would concern me.

As far as a 'flush' type method, yes, it's generally as simple and straight forward as doing 1 complete change, firing up the car and letting it idle warm to get full oil circulation, then do another change.


There is a "4th method" if you want to call it that though. A Pela Pump (or other suction method) to pull the oil out through the dip stick. Far less messy, no jacking the car up, etc...

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

It's an 05. New starter, new plugs, new coils, new wires, new intake, seafoamed, clean MAF, clean ESS.

I'm going to check RIWWPs idea out and possibly get a grounding kit as well. One of the issues that is also on the side burner is as follows. If I am at idle, and I roll a window up, once it gets to the top, everything shakes for a moment, and seems like it loses power.

I did some searching on this a while back and many people said that the torque converter is usually to blame for this issue.

the alternator tested great and the battery is great too, so I am deff going to look at grounding/corroded cables being an issue. RIWWP, up a few posts did you see those 2 pictures I posted? That 1 cable that was running from the positive terminal had like wolverine slashes through the electrical tape housing. I'm wondering if that is connected to the starter and maybe causing an issue.

milkis

i recently realized that one of wire to spark plug (leading) was not fully plugged in.
guess the car's been running like this for half a year.
any worries should i be in?