Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
03-27-2013, 10:49 AM
#1851
I thought there was a cutoff above the redline before 10k?
when i redline my car if I go to about 9.5k i lose all torque/power which feels like it's a fuel cut-off. That's why I stopped going that high.
03-27-2013, 12:17 PM
#1854
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It's a standard analog gauge, where the position of the needle is determined by the current flowing through the bit of electronics at the back (not sure the technical term). The tach has to be calibrated, amount of current flow to where it should be on the physical gauge, and there is a tolerance that it can be off of this from car to car. If we had a digital tach that reported the actual ECU value, then it would be accurate. But it's not digital, the gauge is converting a digital value in the ECU from the ESS (I believe it uses the ESS, I might be mistaken on that) into a current flow, which is only roughly accurate.
This is exactly the same as analog speedometers in nearly every car, and how they are different from the GPS reported speed usually. Same electronic gauge method, same error tolerance, can be off the same way.
Literally no analog gauge can be 100% perfect across the entire range of motion for every car. This is the same basic electrical scaling challenge that tuners face with scaling the MAF correctly, or calibrating an O2 sensor, etc...
This is exactly the same as analog speedometers in nearly every car, and how they are different from the GPS reported speed usually. Same electronic gauge method, same error tolerance, can be off the same way.
Literally no analog gauge can be 100% perfect across the entire range of motion for every car. This is the same basic electrical scaling challenge that tuners face with scaling the MAF correctly, or calibrating an O2 sensor, etc...
03-28-2013, 04:02 AM
#1856
can i use any coolant reservoir off ebay for my car?
are they universal?
is there a certain size i should get?
id like to get a coolant canister, washer fluid canister and mount a small braille battery where the oem washer fluid location is.
are they universal?
is there a certain size i should get?
id like to get a coolant canister, washer fluid canister and mount a small braille battery where the oem washer fluid location is.
Last edited by EricB; 03-28-2013 at 04:06 AM.
03-28-2013, 05:47 AM
#1857
https://www.rx8club.com/aftermarket-...stions-232054/
03-28-2013, 06:21 AM
#1858
I believe one of your old useless threads answers your question
https://www.rx8club.com/aftermarket-...stions-232054/
https://www.rx8club.com/aftermarket-...stions-232054/
holy **** bro.... are u stalking me?
03-28-2013, 06:36 AM
#1860
03-28-2013, 06:39 AM
#1862
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Back off Lvis, it's hardly uncommon for the same people to be involved in more than 1 thread at once. It's easy to see posts as they happen with this link: RX8 Live! and many of us end up replying to the same people over and over again. I do it all the time to numerous people.
He is perhaps getting frustrated with you, but he isn't stalking you.
He is perhaps getting frustrated with you, but he isn't stalking you.
03-28-2013, 06:51 AM
#1864
It's a standard analog gauge, where the position of the needle is determined by the current flowing through the bit of electronics at the back (not sure the technical term). The tach has to be calibrated, amount of current flow to where it should be on the physical gauge, and there is a tolerance that it can be off of this from car to car. If we had a digital tach that reported the actual ECU value, then it would be accurate. But it's not digital, the gauge is converting a digital value in the ECU from the ESS (I believe it uses the ESS, I might be mistaken on that) into a current flow, which is only roughly accurate.
This is exactly the same as analog speedometers in nearly every car, and how they are different from the GPS reported speed usually. Same electronic gauge method, same error tolerance, can be off the same way.
Literally no analog gauge can be 100% perfect across the entire range of motion for every car. This is the same basic electrical scaling challenge that tuners face with scaling the MAF correctly, or calibrating an O2 sensor, etc...
This is exactly the same as analog speedometers in nearly every car, and how they are different from the GPS reported speed usually. Same electronic gauge method, same error tolerance, can be off the same way.
Literally no analog gauge can be 100% perfect across the entire range of motion for every car. This is the same basic electrical scaling challenge that tuners face with scaling the MAF correctly, or calibrating an O2 sensor, etc...
Good information here. You should add it to one of your threads.
Couple more questions or things I'm confused about.
A) Of course I've been using my Cobb AP reporting of the RPM to our OEM RPM Gauge. Is this the equivalant of a Digital Tach (ODBII) vs OEM Analog?
B) If we assume that you are correct that the ECU uses the ESS (I don't if it does either), I wonder on accuracy of that pickup method. The ESS to me seems to be a rather poor implementation of a rather important sensor.
03-28-2013, 11:23 AM
#1867
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Well, anything is possible. Integration with the OEM coolant level sensor plug/wiring might be a problem unless you plan to bypass those completely, plus the multiple coolant hoses to the OEM bottle would need to be run to the new bottle. I don't recall anyone actually doing a conversion like this. You are most likely on new ground.
03-28-2013, 01:20 PM
#1869
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Yes, RX8Club.com.
Specifically, our vendor section.
If you haven't seen the modding guide, I highly recommend you read through it, or at least the modification points that you are looking to do. The link is in my signature.
Specifically, our vendor section.
If you haven't seen the modding guide, I highly recommend you read through it, or at least the modification points that you are looking to do. The link is in my signature.
03-28-2013, 02:39 PM
#1870
A friend of mine did this to his RX-8. Ditched both the washer fluid bottle and the coolant reservoir back in 2009 and had his shop custom made one with a simple level you'd normally see in some Oil Catch Cans. I'm not sure if it has much affect with cooling since it's located at the rear of the engine bay. He has since sold the car, but if you are interested in this, I can ask him about the shop which made this.
Or open the question in the "Dumb Question Thread"... But here's an idea (Oil Catch Can and custom/relocated reservoir):
Last edited by Grace_Excel; 03-28-2013 at 02:41 PM.
03-28-2013, 02:40 PM
#1871
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That's pretty clean, I like it.
Much easier to check the fluid level as a bonus. The caviate I would wonder about would be how it is affected by the loss of all the baffling and routing in the OEM tank. I don't know what the purpose of all the OEM tank's internals, so would be wary of eliminating them until I knew why. That's me though.
Much easier to check the fluid level as a bonus. The caviate I would wonder about would be how it is affected by the loss of all the baffling and routing in the OEM tank. I don't know what the purpose of all the OEM tank's internals, so would be wary of eliminating them until I knew why. That's me though.
03-28-2013, 07:09 PM
#1873
You gonna eat that?
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Hi everyone. I did some maintenance on my 8 a while back and had trouble getting all four wheels off the ground. Front no problem, but I couldn't get floorjack under the rear. Scissor jack was a pain. I bought a pair of Rhino ramps thinking if I back up on them maybe I could still fit the floor jack from the side if not the front? Has anyone tried this or did it an easier way? I will still use all four jackstands. Thanks for any input.
03-28-2013, 07:16 PM
#1874
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Last night I turned my car on to quickly move it from one place of my driveway to another and quickly turned it off, about 2 hours later I tried to turn it on to leave somewhere and it didn't turn on. It wasn't the battery bc I tried that nor was it the oil, the only light on on the dashboard was the engine light and the "ABS" light.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
03-28-2013, 07:22 PM
#1875
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Last night I turned my car on to quickly move it from one place of my driveway to another and quickly turned it off, about 2 hours later I tried to turn it on to leave somewhere and it didn't turn on. It wasn't the battery bc I tried that nor was it the oil, the only light on on the dashboard was the engine light and the "ABS" light.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?