Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

You sir are correct, it will also flash after you erase your codes, until all the sensors become active again as well.

JaysRX8FL

Maybe its the starter or something, I've always kind of had a delayed start. Possibly while it was running bad, misfiriing and what not, it was an even slower start. Or the battery, I don't know I need to find a way to get them checked just can't get the car anywhere.

poacherinthezoo

Looking into getting oil pressure/temp gauges for my car. Since it's a S2, the oil pressure is rated at ~71 psi @ 3,000 rpms - how high does it get at most? less than 150?

poacherinthezoo

When I'm autocrossing my car - should I be turning the engine off or leaving it run for the 10 or 15 mins between runs?

[All of the following coolant temps were measured by the ECU and read via OBDII port reader]

My current procedure is to take a cool-down lap around grid to get some air flow - coolant temps drop to 205F-ish, then I'll pop the hood, let it run for a bit longer, then shut it off when the temperature is 205 - 210F. If I let the car sit with the hood open at idle, the temperature climbs (75F ambient temp) up closer to 210-220F range (220 being the max I've seen it go to). Are these good numbers for what temp these engines should be run at? I've read that 220F is the recommended temp for warning lights?

Am I doing myself a disservice by opening the hood, which is preventing the engine compartment sensor from reaching 220F and kicking the medium fans on?

Am I just being overly paranoid?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I would just do the cooldown lap then switch it off and open the hood .

sweatr

Try Summit Racing. I bought this one for $101.00 . Summit has oil/coolant/trans oil and all sort of gauges.

06rx8nate

iTrader: (1)

I bought my car a while ago, it had the 3M guard installed over the nose section, hood and above lights. Starting to show more along the edge now, starting to lift and peel a bit. I want to take it off.. But feel bad because I know they're expensive.

Anyone think stone chips are common there? Or if maybe I took a heat gun to it, it would sit better? Leaning towards taking it off.. Let me know if anyone thinks thats a bad idea!!

poacherinthezoo

My 09's has a few rock chips up in that area if I'm thinking of the same area as you (at least 3 really noticeable/obvious ones). And that's at only 32k miles. But that could just be due to luck and climate (25k of the miles were in TX till I got my hands on the car here in NE Ohio).

Other than that I don't know anything about heat guns and that stuff.

catchb52

We talking 3M Paint-Defender? If so, per 3M, this is only good for a year of so. It should easily peel off and can then be reapplied. About $40 for the full kit. Auto zone has information on application and fixing. autozone.com/autozone/landing/page.jsp?name=3m-paint-defender-spray-film.

I am on my first 6 months since application and so far, it is working great. Seems to hold up to car washs

vulcan_20

ok dont know if this has been mentioned before but i am installing a N/A F20C engine into my rx8 in the Caribbean but with the high ambient air temperatures i will develop a heat soak problem even when using a RAM air intake was wondering if installing a water to air inter-cooler in the system to help with the hot ambient air problem . any advice on this ? if its a waste of money tell me but its an idea im working on and i would also like to remain naturally aspirated as well

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

I would focus more on finding ways to vent the engine bay.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

What is the actual goal you have? To reduce intake temps? To reduce engine bay temps? To reduce coolant temps?

They all have different benefits, and will be addressed differently. Given that you are already doing an engine swap, the modifications will have to be all custom, so I recommend researching a ton on what will work best for you.

chase8

Hey guys,

I have a 04 rx8 AT with 120k miles. I am going to be doing an engine replacement soon due to 2 dead cylinders and 2 that are about to go, and an intake manifold that is hanging on by a thread according to the mazda dealers results from the compression test and such. I'm going to go with a slightly used engine and a shop other than the dealer and want to know exactly what im getting into. When replacing am i going to have to replace any sensors? If so which ones? Also my dealer told me that a newer engine would fit in my 04, but after reading up I am seeing that as of 05 the engines went 6port so it will not fit on my transmission correct? Will a MT engine fit without modification? Any other things that I should be aware of going into this? I am not a car expert at all, but love my rx8 and would like to be knowledgeable going into this.

Thanks guys!!
(I know this may not be the smartest way to go about it... but im balling on a budget here)

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Um....


I REALLY REALLY REALLY recommend reading post #5 of the new owner's thread: https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

Your engine doesn't have cylinders! (No, seriously, it's true, not joking)


You need a 4-port engine, which means only a 2004 or 2005 Automatic transmission equipped RX-8. A 6-port swap would require a large number of components and lots of labor, more than it would cost you to just sell your 8 and buy a MT equipped RX-8. See the modding thread in my signature for a post on what it takes to do the swap.

Plugs, wires, coils, belts, fuel line (lots of car fires from not replacing this), and any cooling components that haven't been replaced recently (thermostat, radiator, coolant hoses)

chase8

Thanks you da man!

Hesselrode

iTrader: (3)

It is cheaper to get a new reman engine than a used engine. A reman engine is a complete engine with the water pump thermostat and flex plate also. I would recommend getting a reman for $2001.

chase8

Thats not a rotary right? I live in LA, would i have an issue passing emissions? And would it take a bunch of extra modifications to get it to fit?

chase8

Okay, im guessing you mean a remanufactured engine... any suggestions of where to get one?

Cheers!

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Reman is short for remanufactured.
All new internals, not a used engine.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried searching? You should be able to find plenty of info without much trouble.

chase8

Yeah I see a few places, just wondering what places people have had success with, and where he was able to get one for $2001.

J8635621

iTrader: (10)

I don't think all new internals is accurate

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

I have acutaly heard that remains have been known to reuse bearings

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys, poor choice of words on my part.
I was trying an easy way to differentiate between a new or used engine for chase8's benefit who answered his own question right before I replied.

Hesselrode

iTrader: (3)

That is the price at any Mazda dealership.