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dynod it......and the number is......

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Old 08-20-2007, 02:39 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by apples
unless you are boosted, there is no possible way you can hang with an 05+ mustang gt. they run mid 13's, the rx-8 runs a full second slower.

sorry.

Considering that stock '05 and up Mustangs put about 260 hp to the rear tires, I agree.
Old 08-20-2007, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 05rx8mazda
Mustang Gt's hang with me lol wellt he new ones do the 98 models i beat by 2 car lengths and im dead even with the 5.0
A brand new 5.0 runs high 14s, as do the pre-'99 GTs, so I could easily see you hanging with what is now an old car in questionable condition. The new ones, however, are substantially quicker. Are you sure that they were even trying? As apple pointed out, the new Mustangs run more in the 350Z/Evo/STi territory than in the RX8/Si/GTi range.

Even if your '8 is a factory freak with every available bolt on, there's no way it's putting down the ~230 rwhp that it would have to in order to stick with a new Mustang GT at a drag strip. If you're at 180 rwhp at 6000rpm, then you'll probably pull around 210 rwhp at 8000-8500 rpm at max, going by dynos in the dyno thread. While this is quite high for an RX8, it's still not enough to keep up with a (Dynojet) 260rwhp/280rwlbft, 3400 lb car with a solid rear axle and a massive powerband. What kind of dyno were you on?
Old 08-20-2007, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by staticlag
You need to pull the ABS/DSC 60 amp fuse under the hood to properly disable the ABS and DSC/TCS system.
I did not know that.
The dash switch is not enough?
Old 09-19-2007, 03:29 PM
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Dyno fees

Could you tell me what I should expect to pay for dyno time?

BTW: dyno results should be weather corrected to SAE standard J1349. The corrections are usually in the range of about .95 to 1.05, ie +/- 5%
Old 09-19-2007, 04:16 PM
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BUMMER to hear you got only 162whp. Check in the Tech section and you'll see my thread where we dyno'd 19 RX-8's in the same day. I think we ranged from the 160 range to 200.

Coils, plugs, and wires might be worth looking into. (assuming your compression test comes out okay)
Old 09-19-2007, 04:34 PM
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Staiclag is correct. Pull the room fuse.

You also use it as a daily driver so the ECU still remembers and is running according to plan.

Try reseting the ECU and driving it a little. Like a Bat out of Hell on the way to the dyno.

Then let us see what you get.
Old 09-19-2007, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboX8
Could you tell me what I should expect to pay for dyno time?

BTW: dyno results should be weather corrected to SAE standard J1349. The corrections are usually in the range of about .95 to 1.05, ie +/- 5%
50-100 for 3 runs is pretty typical at a shop with a built in dyno.
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