"Electronic flasher" for LED turn signals?
#1
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"Electronic flasher" for LED turn signals?
This gizmo is offered as an alternative to using load balancers with LED turn signal bulbs (unless I'm mistaken). Am I right?
Is this even the right part to use?
Does this replace something that we already have in the car? If yes, where exactly is it?
Can someone shed more light on this? Any experience with this thing?
Thanks.
Is this even the right part to use?
Does this replace something that we already have in the car? If yes, where exactly is it?
Can someone shed more light on this? Any experience with this thing?
Thanks.
#2
I believe we have a module that controls our turn signals and hazzards.
I have been looking at this as well and when i went under the dash I couldn't find a flasher unit like the one advertised.
The wiring manual for the 8 shows a module control unit. I couldn't find a flasher unit for the turns listed either.
I had read somewhere that Mazda or some Japanese manufacturers do a different setup for their flashers. I'd be happy to hear that isn't true or that there is an easy work around that doesn't waste energy like the load resistors do.
I have been looking at this as well and when i went under the dash I couldn't find a flasher unit like the one advertised.
The wiring manual for the 8 shows a module control unit. I couldn't find a flasher unit for the turns listed either.
I had read somewhere that Mazda or some Japanese manufacturers do a different setup for their flashers. I'd be happy to hear that isn't true or that there is an easy work around that doesn't waste energy like the load resistors do.
#3
You'd want this:
LED TURN SIGNAL BLINKER FIX - LOAD RESISTOR KIT
http://frickinbrite.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=113
LED TURN SIGNAL BLINKER FIX - LOAD RESISTOR KIT
http://frickinbrite.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=113
#4
Although 2 amps will work, you can get by with less - a ~1 amp draw will work by using a 10-15 ohm power resistor and it won't produce quite so much heat. This is what I used http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search mounted against the metal of the car as a heat sink.
Total cost $1.59 for two.
Total cost $1.59 for two.
#6
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I believe we have a module that controls our turn signals and hazzards.
I have been looking at this as well and when i went under the dash I couldn't find a flasher unit like the one advertised.
The wiring manual for the 8 shows a module control unit. I couldn't find a flasher unit for the turns listed either.
I have been looking at this as well and when i went under the dash I couldn't find a flasher unit like the one advertised.
The wiring manual for the 8 shows a module control unit. I couldn't find a flasher unit for the turns listed either.
#7
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Although 2 amps will work, you can get by with less - a ~1 amp draw will work by using a 10-15 ohm power resistor and it won't produce quite so much heat. This is what I used http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search mounted against the metal of the car as a heat sink.
Total cost $1.59 for two.
Total cost $1.59 for two.
Did you use one resistor per turn signal bulb, or just one resistor per side is sufficient?
How exactly did you mount the resistors to the metal, seeing that there is no attachment point provided on it? I guess a good metal-to-metal connection is desirable, so something like using velcro isn't a smart idea, considering the heat that will be generated.
#8
That's interesting... thanks for the idea. Now just a couple of questions...
Did you use one resistor per turn signal bulb, or just one resistor per side is sufficient?
How exactly did you mount the resistors to the metal, seeing that there is no attachment point provided on it? I guess a good metal-to-metal connection is desirable, so something like using velcro isn't a smart idea, considering the heat that will be generated.
Did you use one resistor per turn signal bulb, or just one resistor per side is sufficient?
How exactly did you mount the resistors to the metal, seeing that there is no attachment point provided on it? I guess a good metal-to-metal connection is desirable, so something like using velcro isn't a smart idea, considering the heat that will be generated.
#9
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Heh... that's a cool solution (pun intended)
So, this means that two resistors are sufficient for the four bulbs (one per side), right? That'd be great as I don't feel like trying to mount extra resistors for the front bulbs if I can avoid it.
So, this means that two resistors are sufficient for the four bulbs (one per side), right? That'd be great as I don't feel like trying to mount extra resistors for the front bulbs if I can avoid it.
#10
I never thought of that - are you replacing the front turn signal bulbs too? I didn't do that. But I would assume (!!warning lol) that it's one circuit per side, so if that's so, yes one resistor per side (of the car).
I'd just try it and see.
I'd just try it and see.
#12
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Yes, you'll need one resistor per bulb. I found that out the same way... when replacing just the rear bulbs with LEDs and using one resistor per side, it was working OK. When I replaced the fronts as well, I had to use another pair of resistors otherwise it would be hyper-blinking.
#14
If a person replaces all with LED they should not blink fast with one resistor per side.
If they are not all changed the bulbs that are incandescent could store up enough energy to cause the LEDs to blink fast.
That is what I noticed when I did the corner marker rewire to enable it to blink like the turn signal.
The power would cause the hazzard light on the dash to light when a turn signal was used.
If they are not all changed the bulbs that are incandescent could store up enough energy to cause the LEDs to blink fast.
That is what I noticed when I did the corner marker rewire to enable it to blink like the turn signal.
The power would cause the hazzard light on the dash to light when a turn signal was used.
#15
After looking at the pin out for the flasher control module for the RX8 it looks like the module has two flasher units (internal) one for left and right. Also looking a standard electronic flasher unit, looks like you could buy two standard units and wire them in to replace the module. Has anyone tried this? Also do you know where a person could purchase a connector that will plug into the wiring harness?
#17
No need to add load resistors
Team
For those interested, no need to use resistors if you modify the relay flasher unit.
Why? Becuase for anyone who has tried to change the front flashers you have a hard time adding resistors due to lack of space.
I have 2004 model Rx-8 and the flasher unit part number is F151-66-830. This flasher may exisit on new models too? I simply changed the capacitor C1 as shown in the pic below from 4.7 micro farads to 10 micro farads and the 'fast flash' you get without the load resistors was fixed It slows down to normal speed.
You can get the capacitor from Jaycar for 40 cents and have any compentent electronics dude replace the capacitor for you.
For those of you who cannot find the flasher unit - it is under the driver's side near behind the dash near the bonnet release. You need a philips screwdriver to remove the bracket holding it. Its a bit fiddly so get a few cushions to support your back as your head gets under the dash
Enjoy
Martin
For those interested, no need to use resistors if you modify the relay flasher unit.
Why? Becuase for anyone who has tried to change the front flashers you have a hard time adding resistors due to lack of space.
I have 2004 model Rx-8 and the flasher unit part number is F151-66-830. This flasher may exisit on new models too? I simply changed the capacitor C1 as shown in the pic below from 4.7 micro farads to 10 micro farads and the 'fast flash' you get without the load resistors was fixed It slows down to normal speed.
You can get the capacitor from Jaycar for 40 cents and have any compentent electronics dude replace the capacitor for you.
For those of you who cannot find the flasher unit - it is under the driver's side near behind the dash near the bonnet release. You need a philips screwdriver to remove the bracket holding it. Its a bit fiddly so get a few cushions to support your back as your head gets under the dash
Enjoy
Martin
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Strongbad71 (06-28-2021)
#18
Thanks for the update. I have been looking for a place to swap out the one I bought off of v-leds. So, the true question I would like to know is, take a picture or tell me WHERE under the stupid dash is this module. I have looked plenty of times and am completely lost, even with the wiring diagrams.
#21
Where is the flasher unit?
Thanks for the update. I have been looking for a place to swap out the one I bought off of v-leds. So, the true question I would like to know is, take a picture or tell me WHERE under the stupid dash is this module. I have looked plenty of times and am completely lost, even with the wiring diagrams.
So (recall my car is right hand drive so opposite for left handers)
1. Locate Bonnet release
2. Get your head under Dash - see bonnet release cable
3. Look back at the dash (near the coin holder)
4. There the relay flasher critter - tucked away held by a silver bracket using 1 philip's screwdriver and a locator hole
5. Use a long philips to unscrew (you gotta be a rubber man to do this!)
6. Remember the cushions to support your back as you will be bent backwards over the footwell with your head up inside the dash.
7. DONT try to pull the cable out UNTIL you have released the unit by undoing the phillips screw or you could damage it! Once you have it unscrewed you can pull the unit down to daylight to release the cable.
Here are some pics but as you can see, not a lotta space so hope you get the reference points
PS - I obviously cannot spell OBDC correctly!
Enjoy!
Martin
Prepare to become a compressed person!
Bend your head like a giraffe and look back inside the dash near coin holder
Take a deep breath and find that phillips screw - a torch helps! No daylight here
Last edited by felgood90210; 09-10-2013 at 06:06 AM.
#23
THANK YOU!!!!!! Finally found the ******, it was so damn stupid, mainly because the bolt was hidden and so I never knew it was that thing!
Anyways, took this flasher module I bought from v-leds.... didn't fit >_> Do they sell actual modules or will I have to customize this ****?
Anyways, took this flasher module I bought from v-leds.... didn't fit >_> Do they sell actual modules or will I have to customize this ****?
#24
THANK YOU!!!!!! Finally found the ******, it was so damn stupid, mainly because the bolt was hidden and so I never knew it was that thing!
Anyways, took this flasher module I bought from v-leds.... didn't fit >_> Do they sell actual modules or will I have to customize this ****?
Anyways, took this flasher module I bought from v-leds.... didn't fit >_> Do they sell actual modules or will I have to customize this ****?
I bought a spare flasher for $45 from my local mazda dealer and customized that. I am assuming the part number in my original post is the same as yours otherwise once you look inside its usually a resistor or capcitor you modify to make this work (the capacitor was easiest to get at)
I have a soldering Iron so the mod only took me 20 mins
Good luck.
#25
I don't know of any module - like you I just wanted a plug in module.
I bought a spare flasher for $45 from my local mazda dealer and customized that. I am assuming the part number in my original post is the same as yours otherwise once you look inside its usually a resistor or capcitor you modify to make this work (the capacitor was easiest to get at)
I have a soldering Iron so the mod only took me 20 mins
Good luck.
I bought a spare flasher for $45 from my local mazda dealer and customized that. I am assuming the part number in my original post is the same as yours otherwise once you look inside its usually a resistor or capcitor you modify to make this work (the capacitor was easiest to get at)
I have a soldering Iron so the mod only took me 20 mins
Good luck.
No need for load resistors, module takes care of it. Does a bunch of other stuff too..
google tapturn
plug and play, plus a fuse panel wire adapter that is also plug and play.
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