False Low Oil Lights @ High Speeds
#1
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False Low Oil Lights @ High Speeds
Does anyone know the technical service bulletin number in regards to false low oil lights. I just moved to a new area and the dealer here is being a pain in the **** about it. They are telling me it doesn't exists and that they need a number for it. I have been having this problem and just haven't had time to get it fixed until now. And now they are making it a big ordeal!
#2
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There is a sticky on the Tech Forum regarding Service Bulletins:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...threadid=14453
Follow the link there to a website containing information.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...threadid=14453
Follow the link there to a website containing information.
#4
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Originally posted by Elara
print that sucker out and take it into them- mine pretended not to know what I was talking about too, so I'll be bringing that with me next time.
print that sucker out and take it into them- mine pretended not to know what I was talking about too, so I'll be bringing that with me next time.
Also, for those with "flooding" issues, there is now a mandated fix from Mazda. If a customer comes in complaining of "flooding" or "hard to start" issues, they now have a hotter set of leading spark plugs to go in under warranty.
Just an FYI
#5
Our local dealers have been doing the oil pan fixes to the remaining affected inventory. Your dealer should be aware of the oil pan TSB but since all dealers are not equal , take the print out to them to "remind" them.
We are very fortunate here in Austin Tx to have Mazda South who always seem to be on the ball with any problems.
Kirk
We are very fortunate here in Austin Tx to have Mazda South who always seem to be on the ball with any problems.
Kirk
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Originally posted by hondas2k
We are very fortunate here in Austin Tx to have Mazda South who always seem to be on the ball with any problems.
Kirk
We are very fortunate here in Austin Tx to have Mazda South who always seem to be on the ball with any problems.
Kirk
Even though I live in Houston, I go to Mazda South to have anything important done. Friday, they did the oil pan (we compared the two to see what the actual difference was), spark plugs, synthetic gearbox oil, replaced the rear end fluid, checked for software updates (I have all of them), and tweaked my alignment.
They even ordered Castrol 5w-20, because they knew it was my preference.
How can you beat service like that?
#9
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Originally posted by tpryor
My dealer sent me an email and said to bring it in (I love my dealer).
Also, for those with "flooding" issues, there is now a mandated fix from Mazda. If a customer comes in complaining of "flooding" or "hard to start" issues, they now have a hotter set of leading spark plugs to go in under warranty.
Just an FYI
My dealer sent me an email and said to bring it in (I love my dealer).
Also, for those with "flooding" issues, there is now a mandated fix from Mazda. If a customer comes in complaining of "flooding" or "hard to start" issues, they now have a hotter set of leading spark plugs to go in under warranty.
Just an FYI
#11
Originally posted by tpryor
Friday, they did the oil pan (we compared the two to see what the actual difference was)
Friday, they did the oil pan (we compared the two to see what the actual difference was)
Cheers,
Simon.
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Also, please don't call it a "false oil light". It means there is a problem with oil pickup. It may be why a number of engines have failed. It may just be coincidence. Whatever, you don't starve a rotary of oil or coolant.
Never ignore these warning systems!
Never ignore these warning systems!
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Originally posted by sferrett
And what exactly was the difference? Didn't happen to take any pics perchance did you?
Cheers,
Simon.
And what exactly was the difference? Didn't happen to take any pics perchance did you?
Cheers,
Simon.
There has been a lot of talk on the board about what the differences would be - some say different baffles, some say other things, but the truth of it all is very different.
They are replacing the sensor unit at the bottom of the pan! The pan itself is identical, but since you have to bend it pretty good to get the old one off, and there would be MUCH more labor involved to change out the sensors, they send the new sensor already attached to a new pan.
We had a master technician (a rotary specialist), the Service Manager, and 2 RX-8 owners (myself and eccles) all survey this new pan extensively next to the old one when it was removed. The pans are IDENTICAL!
The ONLY difference is the sensor unit itself. The "old" sensor had two small holes (one on each side) drilled into the body of the sensor, and the new sensor had those two, and an additional hole in the top. THAT'S IT!
It appears that with constant high speed operation, the oil would "push" toward the rear of the pan and slowly drain from the sensor through the two holes on the sides. This is why the light only came on after prolonged acceleration, not right away.
With the additional hole in the top, the sensor would retain oil inside the sensor as long as there was sufficient oil in the pan, and the light would not trigger.
I hope this helps, and I will know better next time. I keep the camera with me at all times now.
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Or foaming or frothing oil would fill the sensor tube with air, displacing the oil. I suspect this is a more likely cause. If so, they still don't deal with the foaming oil problem.
#15
Prodigal Wankler
Originally posted by RX-GR8
your dealer sounds awesome.
your dealer sounds awesome.
I don't drive quite as far as Tim to go to Mazda South, but I do drive across town to go there despite living within 500 feet of the other Mazda store in town.
#16
neither of the two dealers cloeset to me knew about this bulletin when I called them (my 8 has this problem), one of them (where I bought the car) said he'd have to reproduce the problem before he would fix it, even though my VIN is affected...whatever, i'm getting a second opinion.
#17
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i took mine in today for the oil pan issue and i also told them to check the seat heaters because they didnt seem to get hot. i mentioned that i wanted 5w-20 oil if the oil pan was replaced. i waited all day and i had to call my dealer 15 minutes before they closed. they told me they called mazda and the seat heaters are seat warmers and mine are working correctly. as far as the pan they said that my VIN wasn't in the range(which it is). they also decided to add some oil to "top it off" i said i just added a 1/4 qt. they wanted to keep the car overnight for some reason and i said no i dont think so. i get there 15 minutes later and show them the print out of the TSB for the oil pan and the service guy goes back to talk to the mechanic and comes back and says he is sorry my oil pan should have been replaced but they have to order the pan. im thinking why didnt they just tell me that this morning? and as far as topping it off i checked it when i got home and sure enough it was above the full mark where the stick starts to get thicker. they think that is the full line. i am not too confident in this dealership at all. now i have to take it back when the oil pan comes in.
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call me stupid, but if the only difference is where the sensor is positioned or how the sensor works, then it does not make any difference in regards if there is oil for the engine?
So the new oil pan only makes sure that the light does not come on unless there _really_ is a lack of oil???
(My VIN falls in the range specified in the TSB, I'll have it done in 2 months)
-Peter
So the new oil pan only makes sure that the light does not come on unless there _really_ is a lack of oil???
(My VIN falls in the range specified in the TSB, I'll have it done in 2 months)
-Peter
Originally posted by tpryor
Of course not - I cursed myself all day for forgetting the camera at home (150 miles away).
There has been a lot of talk on the board about what the differences would be - some say different baffles, some say other things, but the truth of it all is very different.
They are replacing the sensor unit at the bottom of the pan! The pan itself is identical, but since you have to bend it pretty good to get the old one off, and there would be MUCH more labor involved to change out the sensors, they send the new sensor already attached to a new pan.
We had a master technician (a rotary specialist), the Service Manager, and 2 RX-8 owners (myself and eccles) all survey this new pan extensively next to the old one when it was removed. The pans are IDENTICAL!
The ONLY difference is the sensor unit itself. The "old" sensor had two small holes (one on each side) drilled into the body of the sensor, and the new sensor had those two, and an additional hole in the top. THAT'S IT!
It appears that with constant high speed operation, the oil would "push" toward the rear of the pan and slowly drain from the sensor through the two holes on the sides. This is why the light only came on after prolonged acceleration, not right away.
With the additional hole in the top, the sensor would retain oil inside the sensor as long as there was sufficient oil in the pan, and the light would not trigger.
I hope this helps, and I will know better next time. I keep the camera with me at all times now.
Of course not - I cursed myself all day for forgetting the camera at home (150 miles away).
There has been a lot of talk on the board about what the differences would be - some say different baffles, some say other things, but the truth of it all is very different.
They are replacing the sensor unit at the bottom of the pan! The pan itself is identical, but since you have to bend it pretty good to get the old one off, and there would be MUCH more labor involved to change out the sensors, they send the new sensor already attached to a new pan.
We had a master technician (a rotary specialist), the Service Manager, and 2 RX-8 owners (myself and eccles) all survey this new pan extensively next to the old one when it was removed. The pans are IDENTICAL!
The ONLY difference is the sensor unit itself. The "old" sensor had two small holes (one on each side) drilled into the body of the sensor, and the new sensor had those two, and an additional hole in the top. THAT'S IT!
It appears that with constant high speed operation, the oil would "push" toward the rear of the pan and slowly drain from the sensor through the two holes on the sides. This is why the light only came on after prolonged acceleration, not right away.
With the additional hole in the top, the sensor would retain oil inside the sensor as long as there was sufficient oil in the pan, and the light would not trigger.
I hope this helps, and I will know better next time. I keep the camera with me at all times now.
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