What fuse do I need to pull so the engine will crank over and not start. The Greddy instructions say pull the PCM fuse but I didnt see anything labeled PCM. I tried pulling the fuel fuse, and it started, I pulled the ECS fuse and it didnt even turn over. Even though I have started the car and the turbo has oil, its leaking, so I want to just turn it over instead of having to turn the car on then turn it off. Thanks!

Adam

 

adam it sounds like you got that charge pipe hooked up i assume? if you want the engine to just crank, ill look at the diagram and hopefully chime in sooner than anyone else may of assistance..

 

disconnect the eccentric shaft position sensor....it will not start!

 

Hey Greg, ya, I finally got that bastard on!! Lol!! Took some finesse but its on, had some problems with the downpipe on that very top nut in the middle, thankfully I have friends with small hands but it I think its not fully on yet. According to the Greddy instructions, it says to pull the PCM fuse but didnt see one labeled that.

but it will still turn over right??

 

^the top nut on the downpipe is easily accessed if you lower the engine down all the way
this of course means you need to have the motor mount out

I have installed my kit about 3 times now...you will learn the tricks eventually, lol.

 

Ya, I think Im gonna have to drop engine anyway to get a good grip on the feed line and was already thinking it would be easy to get the nut with the engine lowered. I just want this stupid car to be done!

 

huh? why do you need to get to the feed line?
that should have already been installed and tightened before you bolted on the turbo

 

Ya it was, but I think thats what is leaking. Im going to get a telescoping mirror and start the car and see where is leaking from. I took Bryans advice and used liquid teflon, and Im wondering if thats my problem.

 

If you just crank the engine and don't let it start you still won't be able to see your oil leak- there won't be enough oil pressure. Remember the engine cranks at just 225rpm or so.

 

yes disconnect he ecc. shaft sensor it will crank but not start....good to prime it but like chickenwafer said that once it's primed look to see if it leak from that pressure....if it does try to fix before a start...if no leaks visible after prime...start it up and do a THOROUGH check of all lines fittings etc etc.

 

Ahhh...good point guys. Thanks for that, it never occured to me.

 

It will more likely be the drain bolts - remember how you can't tighten that back one up?

It dribbles and drips onto the manifold below. Use your mirror to find the black spot right below the inboard bolt of the drain fitting......

Pull the fitting off and wet the gasket with Hylomar or similar gasket goo, then tighten the inboard one as far as possible before you install the outside bolt.

S

 

So you have to "drop" the renesis? oppose to pulling it?

 

To remove it, you would lift it out, but to give yourself a little more room to work on a turbo, you'd remove one or both engine mounts and jack it down. Gives 3 or 4 inches more room.

Lower the jack carefully - easy to squish the wastegate actuator into scrap.......

S

 

nice

 

I found a way to tighten the drain bolts easily
I used phillips head bolts instead of the 10mm bolts...worked awesome

 

Im gonna hit those one more time but Im pretty sure its the oil feed. Theres oil up there by the line, even though I find it fishy that oil is only running down one side of the turbo, where the water jackets are. (BNR upgrade) When I use my flashlight, I can see oil by the line but the left side of turbo, towards driver, looks dry. For as hard as it was coming, I would have thought it would have flooded the top of the turbo and leaked down both sides.

 

YES only way to go (I think you mean allen head capscrews with a ball headed allen key )