Hey guys,

So I'm going into my dealership tomorrow. Never been there cause I just bought my 8 a month ago. I'm going in for the clutch pedal recall and I'm having some issues hot starting.. So i want a compression test.
I Just recently did a tune up. Plugs, coils, air filter, and oil change. And my question is, do I need to change out my 5w-30 oil for 5w-20? Since the manual says 5w-20. Is there a way for them to find out what weight of oil I'm using?

 

no they wont but you better have some service history to get an engine replacement.

 

Thank you for the quick reply. I'm still questioning on whether I have bad compression because I haven't felt any power loss at all. Just some hard, hot starts.

And I have the receipts for all the service I've done to it. But not the previous owners. He told me that he had taken it to a dealership for service.

 

Don't let them try to charge you for the compression test...Most dealerships will...If you are still under warranty, the warranty should cover it as long as you tell them you're having starting issues.

 

hard start is not uncommon even on the S2.
mine does that on a very hot day if the engine is restarted in less than 10 min.
try to rev the engine to 3000rpm then turn it off.

 

Good to know. I definitely won't let them do that. I think im just freaking out a little since this is one of the first times this has happened to me. And i know that we get hard starts sometimes when its super hot out and the renny is hot. Who knows.. I guess the compression test will tell all.

 

What year is it? and miles?

 

^........from sig, I will assume 2005.

 

Is it okay to rev the engine before turning it off? I've heard that this can diminish the life of your cat (at least in other vehicles).

 

Check your clutch pedal yourself before you have Mazda do it just to make sure it is broken or breaking. I was told by the dealership that they only check it once and then put a note on the account that it has already been looked at and will not check it again. I don't know if thats true everywhere but its something to keep in mind and maybe ask them.

 

2005 with almost 37000 miles

Yup, lol

Oh really? Yeah i'll definitely take a look at it before i take it in then. Thanks man

 

^.............Might put a note, but the extended warranty is still 8/80k if it breaks whether they like it or not.

 

You don't need to do it anyway, really........it's not needed.
If it is needed then you have a weak ignition and should fix it.
Some think it needs it on early 04's, but I think that's really due to what I said or some of those had weak starters.
05 since brand new and I've bever done it and it's never failed to start right up.

 

As long as you have all of your service records, you should be fine if you need a new engine...Believe me when I say we all know how it feels the first time something seems "wrong"...lol...It's like you're having an anxiety attack and your world is falling apart...Everything will be fine.

 

I've read up and heard about some of the weak starters so its possible that is the problem, since i just replaced the coils, plugs and wires.
Thought it was 8/100k, but either way 8 years will definitely come first lol.
Im hoping i wont need a new engine yet. (But if i do then atleast its still under warranty )
Haha yeah everyone gets to experience this a few times.. Thanks man!

 

I use 5w-30 conventional oil ever since i bought the car in 07, and i never had problem ever since. You could use 5w-20 up to 40 in weight.

 

I also use 5w-30 conventional. I just didnt want them to find out somehow and void my warranty.

 

I use 5-30 suring spring summer fall. 5-20 during the winter.

It just feels right...

 

They cannot do that.
5w-20 is recommended in the US, they recommend 5w-30 elsewhere in the world.
The key word here is "recommend". They cannot void your warranty for that.

 

I was thinkin of goin with 5w-20 in the winter as well.
Oh fer reals?! This whole time i was thinking they could void it.. I feel dumb

 

I know it varies by dealership but I just had a compression test fail last week. I had the MazSport ignition coil upgrade and a K&N intake on it. The made me--actually they wanted $420 for labor, took me 2 hours to do it myself--put the OEM parts back on and did a second test otherwise Mazda wasn't going to pay for it. They didn't care about service records. For me, it was $100 to do the test and if it fails, Mazda reimburses the labor. If it passes, then you're out the labor cost. 2 months left on the warranty, 87k miles and I'm getting a new engine this week. The dealer is probably on your side because sales are bad and they're surviving on service now. If they can get Mazda to pay for all the time to swap engines, they make a decent amount.