hesitates on acceleration
11-17-2011, 10:01 PM
#26
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From what I've read around the site it has to do with the engine retarding itself causing a knocking sound. A bad SSV would sound like marbles in a can. I'm not mechanically inclined myself I've just studied the stickies and picked up from 3 very knowledgeable guys in my area.
Put it this way. Our cars only like steak and you've been forcing McDonald's down her throat.
Put it this way. Our cars only like steak and you've been forcing McDonald's down her throat.
Putting that aside, they did run the Engine Compression Test... Results
1) Rotor 1 - 7.0 (Barely Pass)
2) Rotor 2 - 6.4 (Failed)
[Standard is: 8.5; Minimum is: 6.9] - rpm @ 242... isnt' the healthy rpm about 258, RIWWP?
Conclusion is, Engine is going dead... they called Mazda, and Mazda has authorized a new engine for me... Engine Compression Test costs is covered by the engine warranty since I did prove them wrong...
I don't know what to say about this.... honestly. But a few lingering questions in my head to share about
1) Am I a better diagnostic person than that guy who's trying to figure out the problem that I tried to describe to him... [Answer: IF you are certain your engine is acting up and is not driving as it has had, trust yourself, try to prove them wrong by any means]
2) They will install my new engine.. how much can I trust them not screwing up?
3) The diagnostic person (mechanic) didn't suggest to do a Engine Compression Test and kept pin-ing the problem was down to Octane uses problem... For me, this is very shady and not appreciated. They also try to fear me to back down by telling me the very expensive Engine Compression costs if I want to do it.. -1 even more..
P.S. Burn all your re-fill receipt.
In all,
What RIWWP said is true, my engine compression were truly lousy to be able to run 87 and had not blown up
....Any quick links to "burn-in the engine" ?
11-17-2011, 10:11 PM
#27
1. congrats on getting a new engine. Please, try to use premium gas from now on.
2. You've now graduated to searching for your own answers. Use the search bar at the top of the page and type "engine break in". Or click the google link in my sig and use "engine break in" as the key word.
By the sound of it, you have a lot to learn about this engine. This forum is full of useful stuff! I suggest you take advantage of it
2. You've now graduated to searching for your own answers. Use the search bar at the top of the page and type "engine break in". Or click the google link in my sig and use "engine break in" as the key word.
By the sound of it, you have a lot to learn about this engine. This forum is full of useful stuff! I suggest you take advantage of it
11-17-2011, 10:13 PM
#28
European livin n ohio
Well it certainly didn't help lol. I'm glad you're covered under warranty. But give her the good stuff from now on just because they were wrong doesn't mean you're right.
just because they were wrong doesn't mean you're right.
11-17-2011, 10:15 PM
#29
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I do have some further questions though? When they said they are replacing the Engine, what component specifically? Just the engine? what about Coils/ S. Plugs/ Wires/ clutches?
11-17-2011, 11:26 PM
#33
I'm not being a smart ***. I was giving you a tool so that you can learn to search for your own answers, which will benefit you in the future. It's a lot more helpful than spoon-feeding you.
Have you ever hear this:
"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime."?
Have you ever hear this:
"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime."?
11-18-2011, 06:36 AM
#34
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250 rpm is the standard, but even corrected up 8rpm, your rear rotor wouldn't pass.
The will replace the engine itself. What all is covered is entirely up to your specific extended warranty. If you were just under the 8yr 100k engine core warranty, you would have to pay for all the fluids and other bits like the fuel line, non-reusable washers, etc... Though some dealers don't charge for it, quite a few do. You have a different warranty covering this however (according to what you said earlier), so the coverage likely changes.
All components will be reused (alternator, water pump, coils, wires, plugs, etc....)
The will replace the engine itself. What all is covered is entirely up to your specific extended warranty. If you were just under the 8yr 100k engine core warranty, you would have to pay for all the fluids and other bits like the fuel line, non-reusable washers, etc... Though some dealers don't charge for it, quite a few do. You have a different warranty covering this however (according to what you said earlier), so the coverage likely changes.
All components will be reused (alternator, water pump, coils, wires, plugs, etc....)
11-18-2011, 09:22 AM
#35
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I'm not being a smart ***. I was giving you a tool so that you can learn to search for your own answers, which will benefit you in the future. It's a lot more helpful than spoon-feeding you.
Have you ever hear this:
"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime."?
Have you ever hear this:
"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime."?
I did these rotary ritual every day:
i) Every morning warm-up engine b4 trip --making sure temp is up at middle line b4 starting to drive,
ii) no driving past the 3.5K rpm during 1st drive of every morning for about 30mins
iii) Fill up oil about 0.5quarts every weekends.
iv) Let the car sit for 1-2mins b4 getting down/ shutting of the engine (everytime -- including short trip to grocery and etc. -- my GF hates me for doing that)
v) I also uses 5w-30 as J-spec Mazda recommends it... and so on, etc.
--------
250 rpm is the standard, but even corrected up 8rpm, your rear rotor wouldn't pass.
The will replace the engine itself. What all is covered is entirely up to your specific extended warranty. If you were just under the 8yr 100k engine core warranty, you would have to pay for all the fluids and other bits like the fuel line, non-reusable washers, etc... Though some dealers don't charge for it, quite a few do. You have a different warranty covering this however (according to what you said earlier), so the coverage likely changes.
All components will be reused (alternator, water pump, coils, wires, plugs, etc....)
The will replace the engine itself. What all is covered is entirely up to your specific extended warranty. If you were just under the 8yr 100k engine core warranty, you would have to pay for all the fluids and other bits like the fuel line, non-reusable washers, etc... Though some dealers don't charge for it, quite a few do. You have a different warranty covering this however (according to what you said earlier), so the coverage likely changes.
All components will be reused (alternator, water pump, coils, wires, plugs, etc....)
-Appreciate-
Last edited by vX-2; 11-18-2011 at 09:24 AM.
11-18-2011, 09:45 AM
#36
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91 is the highest available in my area..... for the 93 I have to drive out about 20miles to get it at the Shell V-power station...
.... wait... u mean if my engine compression ratio test failed? The warranty doesn't cover it? But I did use premium most often, and only sometimes on the 89, and a few rare ocassion the 87 (which I learnt was not the way to re-fill though it has 0% ethanol, while the 91/89 has 10% ethanol is still fine for the rotary-- and the 87 costs > 89).... oh, great.... I just shoot myself on the foot.
.... wait... u mean if my engine compression ratio test failed? The warranty doesn't cover it? But I did use premium most often, and only sometimes on the 89, and a few rare ocassion the 87 (which I learnt was not the way to re-fill though it has 0% ethanol, while the 91/89 has 10% ethanol is still fine for the rotary-- and the 87 costs > 89).... oh, great.... I just shoot myself on the foot.
pinging on the other hand is.
just stick to 91, I dont see a single reason why you would use 87.
11-18-2011, 09:50 AM
#37
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I did these rotary ritual every day:
i) Every morning warm-up engine b4 trip --making sure temp is up at middle line b4 starting to drive,
ii) no driving past the 3.5K rpm during 1st drive of every morning for about 30mins
iii) Fill up oil about 0.5quarts every weekends.
iv) Let the car sit for 1-2mins b4 getting down/ shutting of the engine (everytime -- including short trip to grocery and etc. -- my GF hates me for doing that)
v) I also uses 5w-30 as J-spec Mazda recommends it... and so on, etc.
i) Every morning warm-up engine b4 trip --making sure temp is up at middle line b4 starting to drive,
ii) no driving past the 3.5K rpm during 1st drive of every morning for about 30mins
iii) Fill up oil about 0.5quarts every weekends.
iv) Let the car sit for 1-2mins b4 getting down/ shutting of the engine (everytime -- including short trip to grocery and etc. -- my GF hates me for doing that)
v) I also uses 5w-30 as J-spec Mazda recommends it... and so on, etc.
2. once water temp is in the middle, you can safely pass 4000 just not redlining for another 10-20min depending on ambient temp.
3. not necessary, if temp is up, turn it off whenever you want.
4. 0.5qt per week? how far do you drive every week? my S2 burns oil like a pig yet I dont need to add 0.5qt per week.
11-18-2011, 10:21 AM
#38
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1. extensive warming up is not necessary. I usually do when the water temp needle starts to move I start driving gently.
2. once water temp is in the middle, you can safely pass 4000 just not redlining for another 10-20min depending on ambient temp.
3. not necessary, if temp is up, turn it off whenever you want.
4. 0.5qt per week? how far do you drive every week? my S2 burns oil like a pig yet I dont need to add 0.5qt per week.
2. once water temp is in the middle, you can safely pass 4000 just not redlining for another 10-20min depending on ambient temp.
3. not necessary, if temp is up, turn it off whenever you want.
4. 0.5qt per week? how far do you drive every week? my S2 burns oil like a pig yet I dont need to add 0.5qt per week.
4. My weekly milage is probably 200miles... I can't get a good reading on the dipstick, hence if* I don't drive more than 200miles, I'll wait.... but normally I'll top it with .5quarts after every 2-3 full re-fill of gas.
Extra question to my fellow Nebraskan.... any oct 93 up there? -- Lincoln has 0... I know one Shell station at Seward, but that's 15/20miles out...
Last edited by vX-2; 11-18-2011 at 10:24 AM.
11-18-2011, 10:23 AM
#39
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3. I do it as a way to "cool down/ cool off" the engine.... you know like the turbo cooling off concept; idle for a while for the oil to cool off b4 shutting off.
4. My weekly milage is probably 200miles.
Extra question to my fellow Nebraskan.... any oct 93 up there? -- Lincoln has 0... I know one Shell station at Seward, but that's 15/20miles out...
4. My weekly milage is probably 200miles.
Extra question to my fellow Nebraskan.... any oct 93 up there? -- Lincoln has 0... I know one Shell station at Seward, but that's 15/20miles out...
11-18-2011, 10:47 AM
#43
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=site%3Arx8club.com+engine+brake+in
And yes, please don't try to be cocky... I do know how to use google, and I'm not an idiot..
11-18-2011, 10:48 AM
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The US uses a different method of coming up with the octane number than the rest of the world. You can't compare one to the other unless you do the math between them to find equivalent ratings.
And "supreme" / "premium" is recommended, it doesn't state a grade. Some places in the US 89 is the highest you can get. I found that out personally. My engine runs just fine on 89, so 89 is what I use. The only reason I would go to a higher grade is for Shell V-Power, because it doesn't have ethanol, and produces slightly better gas mileage (because ethanol contains less energy than gasoline, and the exact same car/drive will get slightly worse mileage with E10 than they will with E0)
And "supreme" / "premium" is recommended, it doesn't state a grade. Some places in the US 89 is the highest you can get. I found that out personally. My engine runs just fine on 89, so 89 is what I use. The only reason I would go to a higher grade is for Shell V-Power, because it doesn't have ethanol, and produces slightly better gas mileage (because ethanol contains less energy than gasoline, and the exact same car/drive will get slightly worse mileage with E10 than they will with E0)
11-18-2011, 11:04 AM
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Oh really???
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=site%3Arx8club.com+engine+brake+in
Bull ****. As I just, AGAIN, had to spoon feed you. I'm done "helping" you.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=site%3Arx8club.com+engine+brake+in
Bull ****. As I just, AGAIN, had to spoon feed you. I'm done "helping" you.
you gave me this link >>
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=site%3Arx8club....ended+warranty
and what information does it say? Just replacing engine... so what are the exact components? Just the bore? The rotor housing? Apex seals? Coils ? and etc... I meant specific details which 'RIWWP' help to answered... Of course, I wouldn't want to pair my newer engine with the older coils/ plugs/ wires , would the Mazda Engine Warranty would replace all of those too? (it is part of the engine--at least for it to work), what are the recommendations?.. and etc.
And Thanks for the break-in guidance... but I still need more information like... Can the newer made rotary take in Synthetic oil? I know traditionally, it shouldn't and mostly not advisable, but, nowadays, most oil types available are synthetic already... the only few is like Mobil 1 Super 5000, and the castrol basic one... that's "not so synthetic" -- when I asked the guy in autozone & o'riley.
---------------------
The US uses a different method of coming up with the octane number than the rest of the world. You can't compare one to the other unless you do the math between them to find equivalent ratings.
And "supreme" / "premium" is recommended, it doesn't state a grade. Some places in the US 89 is the highest you can get. I found that out personally. My engine runs just fine on 89, so 89 is what I use. The only reason I would go to a higher grade is for Shell V-Power, because it doesn't have ethanol, and produces slightly better gas mileage (because ethanol contains less energy than gasoline, and the exact same car/drive will get slightly worse mileage with E10 than they will with E0)
And "supreme" / "premium" is recommended, it doesn't state a grade. Some places in the US 89 is the highest you can get. I found that out personally. My engine runs just fine on 89, so 89 is what I use. The only reason I would go to a higher grade is for Shell V-Power, because it doesn't have ethanol, and produces slightly better gas mileage (because ethanol contains less energy than gasoline, and the exact same car/drive will get slightly worse mileage with E10 than they will with E0)
Last edited by vX-2; 11-18-2011 at 11:07 AM.
I was only explaining to the other guy why I asked and pointing to him how he's not useful by sending me a just "how to google"...
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