Highest Mileage 2004 on original original engine?
#26
Actually, I saw something like this :https://www.rx8club.com/search.php?searchid=4400793
without my thread at the top.
I'm looking for specific info (and an update) on 2004 models with original engines which may have had their long term reliability compromised by engine management issues.
Hence, I started a new thread.
without my thread at the top.
I'm looking for specific info (and an update) on 2004 models with original engines which may have had their long term reliability compromised by engine management issues.
Hence, I started a new thread.
#32
If I had kept my original 8 and all things stayed the same, I'd be at around 80k right now. The second 8 I swapped into (also a 2004) is going to hit 50k next month...which is only 2 months earlier than the warranty would have expired.
Time to buy some F/I? Nope...not in this economy.
Time to buy some F/I? Nope...not in this economy.
#34
If I had kept my original 8 and all things stayed the same, I'd be at around 80k right now. The second 8 I swapped into (also a 2004) is going to hit 50k next month...which is only 2 months earlier than the warranty would have expired.
Time to buy some F/I? Nope...not in this economy.
Time to buy some F/I? Nope...not in this economy.
#35
Not trying to go off topic, but I never understood why people wait till after their warranty is up to perform a major mod like that. I personally would go that route while the engine still had fairly low miles (under 25k) for obvious reasons, but also, if something did go wrong, I could at least have the option of pushing my luck by taking out the F/I and seeing if I could get whatever happened with the engine repaired under warranty. Adding turbo after 50k miles in this car to me is like deciding to become a football player at 35. I guess I just want to keep my 8 for as long as possible.
#36
well if you add a turbo your not going to be just taking it off and going to the dealer, thats for sure. you would spend so much time and work trying to take everything off and make it look stock again that it would just be WAY cheaper to pay to have it fixed.
#37
#42
#44
kevin@rotaryresurrection
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 57
From: east of Knoxville, TN
I feel it could have gone to 150-175k, based on what I saw when I tore it down.
No, I only pulled it out to do the 6P/6MT swap.
#45
IT was weak/marginal compression, technically under mazda standard for renesis engines. But it started and ran normally...idled exceptionally well. The only way you could tell it was weak, was that it took 2-3 good seconds to fire up and run during cranking. Part of that is no doubt due to the shitty starter rpm as well, the thing did turn exceptionally slow.
I feel it could have gone to 150-175k, based on what I saw when I tore it down.
No, I only pulled it out to do the 6P/6MT swap.
I feel it could have gone to 150-175k, based on what I saw when I tore it down.
No, I only pulled it out to do the 6P/6MT swap.
#47
kevin@rotaryresurrection
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 57
From: east of Knoxville, TN
The only person in the country/world to have done it the way that I did, to my knowledge. That is, not going with an alternative engine swap (13bREW, 13bRE, 13bt, 20brew, etc.), while retaining stock functionality (no one would ever look at my car and say "hey, that used to be an auto" because it looks like a stock 6MT).
Last edited by RotaryResurrection; 01-24-2009 at 03:49 PM.