Pg 4-10
"If the vehicle is equipped with the tire pressure monitoring system, the system may not function correctly when using tire chains."

Pg 5-4
"To protect the engine, when the engine coolant temperature is low, the engine does not run at high speeds. The fuel supply will be cut at an rpm lower than the red zone."

Pg 5-25
"A system error activation [of the Tire Pressure Monitoring System] may occur in the follwing cases:
-When there is equipment or a device near the vehicle using the same frequency as that of the tire pressure sensors.
-When a metallic device such as a non-genuine navigation system is equipped near the center of the dashboard, which may block signals from the tire pressure sensor to the receiver unit.
-When the following devices in the vehicle that may cause radio interference with the receiver unit.
---A digital device such as a personal computer.
---A current converter device such as a DC-AC converter.
-When excess snow or ice adheres to the vehicle, especially around the wheels.
-When the tire pressure sensor batteries are exhausted.
-When using a wheel with no tire pressure sensor installed.
-When using tires with steel wire reinforcement in the side walls."

Pg 7-5
"When using the temporary spare tire on the rear axle, replace it with a standard tire as soon as possible. The size difference between the spare and the standard tire will cause the limited slip differential to malfunction."

Pg 8-4
A chart that lists maintenance intervals: For normal driving oil changes are every 7500miles/12000k! That seems like a long time 'tween changes.

Pg 8-11
"Because you need a special tool to tighten the [oil] filter, an Authorized Mazda Dealer should do the work."

Pg 8-24
"Limited-Slip Differential; don't use the following:
-Tires not of the designated size
-Tires of different sizes or types at the same time
-Tires not sufficiently inflated
If these instructions are not followed the rotation of the left and right wheels will be different and will thus apply a constant load on the limited-slip differential.
This will cause a malfunction."

 

Pg 5-4
"To protect the engine, when the engine coolant temperature is low, the engine does not run at high speeds. The fuel supply will be cut at an rpm lower than the red zone."


That is just hillarious! So in other words, it will run if you red line the car, but not if you don't!

Man that is horrible translation

 

Wing, I think you need to re-read what it says...

 

I've read it a few times and it makes perfect sense to me.
Maybe the rest of us are the crazy ones.

 

The thing about using the spare (which I'm not getting) is true. Honda, for the S2000 tells you that if a rear goes flat, jack the car, put the front wheel/tire on the rear and put the spare on the front!

 

i love the oil one. No matter what car you have they always say you need a "special" tool to get the oil filter out. My special tool is my hand!

 

Mine too. But for other reasons. :D :D :D

 

Nope, bad english. Unless the "red zone" is not "red line"

 

No, its says you need a special tool to "Tighten" the oil filter, not take it off. I always read that you should hand tighten an oil filter plus add another 3/4 turn.
The only reason you would need a special tool may be because of the difficult access to the filter?
Man I miss the old days of changing the filter on my 1ST gen Rx-7.

 

Wing, the badly translated redzone statement means that when the engine is cold the fuel cutoff is at a lower RPM than redline to protect the engine. BMW does the same thing on the M3 I believe.

 

About the Oil Filter tool, the Miata had a similar warning. It's just a cap that slips on on oil filter. You attach a socket wrench to the oil filter and it comes off with little effort. On the Miata, the oil filter is in a awkward location so it's difficult to get a good grip with your hands. It's probably similar for the RX-8.

 

No, Wing, it is not a bad translation. perhaps you are mis-reading it...To help the understanding, I have added assumed english structures below in square brackets...

"To protect the engine, when the engine coolant temperature is low, the engine does not run at high speeds. [In order to ensure this is the case] The fuel supply will be cut at an rpm lower than the red zone. [To protect the engine, when the engine coolant temperature is high, The fuel supply will be cut at an rpm at the red zone]"

 

I'm not up to speed with my tire technology, but aren't most tires steel wire reinforced?

Maybe something to check into for those that want a stickier or "all-season" tire.

 

Does it really say oil changes every 7500 miles! I thought rotaries will sensitive to this (pardon my ignorance of rotaries).

How often do we need to check the oil level - is it every fill up (that would be every 3 days for me) as some have previously suggested or a more normal every few weeks like I did with old cars in the 80's. On my current piston engined cars I never check the oil, just get it changed every 3000 miles or so.

 

the sump in this car is pretty darned big, as has been discussed before, and because of the low rate of consumption i believe that the oil-change interval (7500 mi) might take into account that most owners won't top-up their oil?? so in that case, you may not have to check it at all. (but duh, always a good idea)

 

Maybe it's saying the fuel will get cut at any predetermined speed according to what temp it is not just if you hit the redline. Most cars you can just start up cold and hammer it. The renesis will prevent you from doing that.

 

About the oil issue. there are two schedules. One is for optimum driving condition under a good environment, change every 7500 miles. Schedule two who I would imagine is pratically everybody it says change every 5000 miles. On page 8-9 it also recommends Energy Conserving Oils be used, that statement coupled with the 5000 to 7500 change duration tells me they (Mazda) use and recommend using synthetic oils. What do you think it means?

 

If that is hinting at using synthetic why are they TELLING the technicians something entirely different? From the technical highlights CD the narrator specifies "5W-20 non synthetic oil" in the segment on the engine. Personally, I don't think 7500 miles would make me think synthetic. 10,000 or more miles, yes. I think from the other threads about oil in this forum we can agree the magic 3000 is more drum-up-business hype than necessity with non synthetics. Doesn't hurt, but no real proof it makes a big difference. I haven't been the best caretaker of my 1st Gen RX-7 but as it approaches 264,000 miles it still goes hhmmmmmmmm. :D Some of the dino oil I've used would make you purists shudder!:p

 

Perhaps, it is a hint to take it easy while it's cold and let it warm up before hammering it. IMO, is a good device to protect a high reving engine from those people that is in a hurry by starting then drive off in the early morning. :p

 

I thought a post here would be good information for a lot of people. My dealership just had specific RX8 training today by a Mazda rep out of California. Some answers to the questions above plus a few extra notes worth having. The RX8 REQUIRES premium gas (91 or higher octane). The manual is strange on the oil changes, in one part is does say every 7500 miles, but in another it says check your oil every 2 fillups, reasoning is the engine is designed to burn oil!!!! the demo we had here today has 2000 miles and has used a 1/2 can of oil already. This is very important for this engine to be able to burn the oil, also, absolutely no synthetic oil can be run in the RX8. The tire issue, the repair kit is adequit for the job, roadside assistance is better, and free. If you use the repair kit, the tire MUST be replaced. The tires at this time are very very difficult to get. They are OEM tires with a special design. They are made to protect the wheels, which are at this time vehicle specific as well, there are no known aftermarket wheels that will fit on the RX8. If you have any specific questions please let me know I will try and answer them, or find out from a rep or someone else that knows the answer.

Richard

 

Why no synthetic?

For those worried about going longer than the oil can, I suggest do maybe 2 or 3 oil ananlysis tests. So go 3000 miles and analyze it. Then if the report comes back good, extend the interval accordingly.

 

The exact staement from the owners manual is " Energy conserving oils are recommended. A chief contribution they make to fuel economy is reducing the amount of fuel necessary to overcome engine friction". So again my question is, Is Energy conserving oils, synthetic? I think it is, and I think thats what their saying. Its not a hint its in black and white, if we know what it means. Some of you tech junkies wade in. Is energy conserving oil another term for synthetic?

 

So you're saying that that I can't go to Tire Rack and pick the Bridgestone Potenza RE040? What's the difference between the dealers tire and Tire Racks?

 

----------
No, Wing, it is not a bad translation. perhaps you are mis-reading it...To help the understanding, I have added assumed english structures below in square brackets...

"To protect the engine, when the engine coolant temperature is low, the engine does not run at high speeds. [In order to ensure this is the case] The fuel supply will be cut at an rpm lower than the red zone. [To protect the engine, when the engine coolant temperature is high, The fuel supply will be cut at an rpm at the red zone]"
--------------------

Maybe I speak a different language. I understand what it saying but I still think the translation is horrible! Adding what you added in brackets makes it better english.

"The fuel supply will be cut at an rpm lower than the red zone."

Should read, the fuel supply will be cut off at a lower rpm than the indicated redline [or redzone].

Maybe I'm picky, I understood it, just that if you read it (without reading it 2 or 3 times) that what the english just seems bad. Simply switching 2 words around in the sentence make a huge difference.

 

The BMW M3 and the Honda S2000 (amongst others) do the same thing. They limit how high you can rev when the engine is cold (in regular English). Once the engine is warmed up you can go to redline.