Thanks Wulf, I just realized you've responded to my same basic question I've posted in two separate threads. It would be nice not to have to put a load resistor in any of the brake lights, but I just dont want an abs light illuminated as Tamas says here, although I do trust Rasp's opinion.

 

Not sure why the ABS light would light up in the first place! I'm getting my LEDs once the snow is gone so I'll be able to test it then.

I'd PM Rasp and run it by him.

 

I may go all LED soon as well, and will let you know what happens Wulf.

 

I'm not sure... I'll just try to use what I used for the turn signals or something like that. I simply made my load resistors using wirewound resistors from Radio Shack.
One way that could work is to measure the resistance of the filament bulb in the third brake light because I know that with that in, I have no problem with the ABS light and my other lights are all LEDs.

I agree... it's pretty stupid actually. The only way I knew it must be the LED bulbs is that the ABS light appeared right after I swapped my third brake light to LED, so it was easy to figure that the last change is the culprit.

 

interesting thread....im book marking this!!!

 

Hello I went to install CREE leds on my car today. The reverse and brake(using a halo ring for tails)work great, but im a little stumped on the turn signals.

I did the rear ones first. I first got the quick flash like they were burnt out. I added a 8ohm 20w resistor to each and all was good.

I then went to the front passanger and swapped it out. I was back to the quick flash. I then added a resistor and still the quick flash. Is the second resistor not big enough or could there be another problem?

 

Team

For those interested, no need to use resistors if you modify the relay flasher unit.

Why? Because for anyone who has tried to change the front flashers you have a hard time adding resistors due to lack of space.


I have 2004 model Rx-8 and the flasher unit part number is F151-66-830. This flasher may exisit on new models too? I simply changed the capacitor C1 as shown in the pic below from 4.7 micro farads to 10 micro farads and the 'fast flash' you get without the load resistors was fixed It slows down to normal speed.

You can get the capacitor from Jaycar for 40 cents and have any compentent electronics dude replace the capacitor for you.

For those of you who cannot find the flasher unit - it is under the driver's side near behind the dash near the bonnet release. You need a philips screwdriver to remove the bracket holding it. Its a bit fiddly so get a few cushions to support your back as your head gets under the dash

Enjoy

Martin

 

Martin, what LEDs did you have installed? Was it just the turning signals?

I installed LED turn signals (rear only so far), side lights and LED Parking lights before I found this thread. I've been burning out side lights and parking lights so I'm kicking myself for not doing more research before I did the swap.

I'm curious if the capacitor swap just fixes the blinking rate, or if it solves the burnout issue that other owners are solving with the load-resistor set on the blinkers, and 10ohm 1Watt resistors on the remaining lights.

I'm was just about to place an order for load resistors from RotaryFX; now I'm wondering if I can save the money by swapping that capacitor - Mostly I'd like to just stop burning out LEDs though, because it's starting to get expensive to replace them.

 

How often are you burning out LEDs? I don't have the resistor fix in yet, haven't had the chance too, and I haven't replaced any of my LED's and nearly every bulb on my car is LED now...

 

To date, I haven't tried the capacitor swap, the resistor patch or the load resistors in-line with the blinkers... I just bought some LEDs and swapped them for the regular bulbs (to the cries of "You Fool!" from the forum).

I started going LEDs about 2 years ago, and so far I'm on my 3rd set of parking light LEDs and my 2nd or 3rd set of front side markers... And I only put about 5k miles a year on the car. The most recent burnout on the right front sidemarker actually melted the LED bulb and left crud on the connectors in the lamp socket.

I've had the rear blinkers in for almost a year with no issues other than the rapid blinking, and possibly the power surge that melted the side markers.

I just installed the rear reverse lights and brake lights yesterday, but the car's nose is still off while I wait for a parking light LED to come in... and then I can go get an Inspection Sticker and go for a damn drive for the first time in like 3 weeks. I also replaced the mounting bracket for the ignition coils, so what started as "Let's take the nose off and change some bulbs" quickly became "While we're here, let's fix that too and see if that loose coil will finally stop throwing CELs about misfires", which of course really means "Let's look at the car collect fall foliage in the engine bay while we wait for parts to ship".

I just ordered 6 "LED Protectors" from AutoIllumination (LED Flashers Blinkers Resistors Load Equalizers for Turn Signal Replacement Bulbs Rapid Flashing Fix - halfway down the page, $1.99 each)... Which I could've made myself thanks to the DIYs left here by other members, but I just didn't want to waste the time picking up the parts.

I also ordered the "Turn Signal Bulb Load Resistor" from RotaryFX (Turn-Signal Bulb Load Resistor Set (Set of 2)), which I hope will help - Their page doesn't list the ohm/watts and I've seen 2 different diagrams as DIYs, both calling for different resistance.

Very soon the only rear bulb that won't be LED is the 3rd break light (so I don't need to add another resistor), and the only nonLED in the front will be the high beams. The blinkers will have their special resistors, and everything else will have the little surge protectors.

And it will all work, and I'll drive Happily Ever After.

 

Instead of load resistors, or capacitor modding the stock flasher, or resistor modding the stock flasher, or adding "LED protectors" (what are these ?? diodes ?? resistors)... isn't the best way to prevent hyperblink for LED signals nowadays to just replace the flasher with LED compatible one? Also seen on the autolumination page.. you can get a plug and play LED flasher that takes care of the issue.

 

Thanks for the info, would be helpful to LED conversions.

(As a new member with only three posts, and all about the same product, you risk being labelled a 'spammer'. Three is probably enough.....)

.

 

For anyone not clear about why you need resistors on tail lights with LEDs to prevent the ABS light(and wondering why the light would come on) it is because it is there to warn you if your brake lights have blown or if your brake switch has failed. Both would obviously reduce safety in heavy braking situations as you'd have no lights.

Leds do not present the same resistance through the circuit so the canbus system lights up the ABS light to warn you.

Many cars also do this with headlights etc and the blue highbeam light won't work for example.

You only need a total resistance equal to about 5w of power which at 12v is a 28ohm or SMALER number of ohms. 25 is about perfect if you only do one. For mine, a 47 ohm 10watt ceramic resistor is soldered across all 3 lights(one on each brake light). No problems at all and very little heat per resistor (and a 10w ceramic is not very big)

 

Oh and if anyone wonders, lots of lights in the RX8 don't even need to be canbus, the system only checks a couple of them. The vast majority can be normal leds and still not show an error.

 

Has anyone replaced the headlight bulbs with LEDs?