Lower Octane Gas and Winter Driving...
#1
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Lower Octane Gas and Winter Driving...
Any thoughts about using mid-grade gas during the cold weather months?? Here in California premium is fast approaching $4/gallon. Would there be any damage to the 8 engine by using 87 or 89 and revving to redline? I'm new to rotaries, but piston engines usually knock due to high ambient temperature/low octane gas. Is it the same with a rotary? I could trade a few revs/hp, if it is safe, for a long freeway trip where engine speed/load is light and save a few $$ in the process.
Any thoughts, suggestions are welcome.
Any thoughts, suggestions are welcome.
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I just put in 89 for the first time, haven't noticed any issues yet. I believe what works varies by car, as some here seem to be able to use even 87, while others have had issues with anything less than 91.
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i've run 87 every fill up for 4 years. i think quite a few people do that.
fyi: i was new to rotaries when i got mine, and using 87 came from the sales guy AND the mazda head tech (not that they necessarily know by experience, but they have to at least know what if they are wrong, THEY will be footing the bill on my repairs, so it seems safe to at least assume they really believe that 87 is perfectly fine).
fyi: i was new to rotaries when i got mine, and using 87 came from the sales guy AND the mazda head tech (not that they necessarily know by experience, but they have to at least know what if they are wrong, THEY will be footing the bill on my repairs, so it seems safe to at least assume they really believe that 87 is perfectly fine).
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Does the Renesis Rotary have a knock sensor that retards ignition timing? I understand that if so, I will lose hp. My main concern is durability as I love revving the crap out of it.
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I recently did a 1400 mile drive putting mostly 87 in it for every fill-up except one with no issues. I do still try to put 89 or 91 in it occasionally, especially since 91 usually has the additives for cleaning your fuel injectors.
#13
i wouldnt risk it.
i use 91 and i have no problems. its only about 2-5$ more a tank
so why risk a engine if your only saving a few $$ ?
1000+ $ for a new engine doesnt sound good to me. i'd stick w/ 91
i use 91 and i have no problems. its only about 2-5$ more a tank
so why risk a engine if your only saving a few $$ ?
1000+ $ for a new engine doesnt sound good to me. i'd stick w/ 91
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I have used 89 in the cooler months but not in the summer here.
The way I look at it is,, $0.10-11 cents per gallon saved by going to a lower octane. 13 gallons per fill up. $1.30-$1.43 per tank difference between 89 and 91 octane. If you fill up 10 times a month,, $13.00 - $14.30
Thats about $0.44 per day that you would pay extra for using premium over mid grade.
Is it worth it?
The way I look at it is,, $0.10-11 cents per gallon saved by going to a lower octane. 13 gallons per fill up. $1.30-$1.43 per tank difference between 89 and 91 octane. If you fill up 10 times a month,, $13.00 - $14.30
Thats about $0.44 per day that you would pay extra for using premium over mid grade.
Is it worth it?
#16
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Dont kid yourself. If you use 87 octane your engine is struggling with predetonation. Thank your anti-knock sensor for retarding your timing to compensate for ping. Thank it again for a loss in power. Just not worth it.
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using 87,89,91,93 octane fuel you will always have "predetonation" because it hasnt detonated yet.
low octane fuel (regular) works just fine for me with no ill effects what so ever. No ping, no detonation, the ecu isnt messing with anything and its running happy.
Maybe granted in higher ambient air temps lower octane fuel might (might) cause problems.
I have driven a car that 100% absolutely needed 93 octane! i was stuck at a station with either regular or diesel, put in the lower octane and it drove ok until it started suckin up the new gas.... pdddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd, and when the ecu messes with your timing and **** you cant get the sucker over 1500 rpm
low octane fuel (regular) works just fine for me with no ill effects what so ever. No ping, no detonation, the ecu isnt messing with anything and its running happy.
Maybe granted in higher ambient air temps lower octane fuel might (might) cause problems.
I have driven a car that 100% absolutely needed 93 octane! i was stuck at a station with either regular or diesel, put in the lower octane and it drove ok until it started suckin up the new gas.... pdddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd, and when the ecu messes with your timing and **** you cant get the sucker over 1500 rpm
#20
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Nothing wrong w/ running 87 in your renesis. The old FC motors had 9.4:1 and 9.7:1 compression ratio and ran better on 87 than 91. Mazda once raced rotaries on the 87 until forced to change.
Unless you have a hairdrier under the hood you can fill up w/ 87. Been doing it for 11K, and w/ every n/a rotary I have owned. There is some funny info on 8 club from time to time IMO.
Unless you have a hairdrier under the hood you can fill up w/ 87. Been doing it for 11K, and w/ every n/a rotary I have owned. There is some funny info on 8 club from time to time IMO.
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The problem occurs because the timing of the detonation is not at the rotational point of power, It occurs before the correct engine timing point. Thus causing stress on all the parts. mainly the apex and corner seals.
Picture a piston engine firing way before top dead center on the compression stroke. The piston is moving up from a cycle from another piston. Suddenly the AF mixture lights as it's coming up. Basically combustion wants to stop the piston as its moving upward. Think you would get some stress there? On the piston rod/crankshaft.
Same scenario with the rotary. your trying to push the rotor backwards against it's basic rotation. That is why timing is very critical. Otherwise KABOOM!
Picture a piston engine firing way before top dead center on the compression stroke. The piston is moving up from a cycle from another piston. Suddenly the AF mixture lights as it's coming up. Basically combustion wants to stop the piston as its moving upward. Think you would get some stress there? On the piston rod/crankshaft.
Same scenario with the rotary. your trying to push the rotor backwards against it's basic rotation. That is why timing is very critical. Otherwise KABOOM!
Last edited by Easy_E1; 12-01-2007 at 08:20 AM.